In reply to Robert Lavin:
I think Gridnorth is being too pessimistic. First, it is perfectly feasible to use snowshoes for approaches in the more popular areas, such as the Chamonix Aiguilles, the Argentiere basin and Mont Blanc de Tacul. Snowshoes are also lighter than skis to carry, so if you're not descending the same side of the peak you happen to be climbing, or (as with the Midi) taking a frique down, they may even be advantageous.
You will not encounter hard black ice or serious dinner plate problems if a route is in condition: it's as simple as that. Often ice conditions are much friendlier than in Scotland, and routes are much easier to protect, too: there is rock gear, including in situ pegs, and the ice being usually thicker will take screws much better. Do learn to make Abalakov abseils, btw: a useful recourse if you do have to retreat unexpectedly, though again, more popular routes (such as those on the Pre de Bar and the Tacul) will be equipped for abseil at every belay.
Yes, a big winter storm could be nasty. But winter forecasts tend to be pretty reliable. Just don't set off on a big route if a storm is forecast. There tend to be long periods of stable weather most winters.
You do want a warm jacket, especially for belays, and excellent gloves, plus warm salopettes. But if the weather is good, it shouldn't be too windy, which makes an enormous difference. I would say that actually, you often feel colder in Scotland than in the Alps in in winter: you just won't be climbing high up in "Scottish" conditions, and the air will be a lot drier, so you won't get as damp.
There are many superb routes which are easy of access where you can cut your teeth. From the Plan middle station, the Col du Plan is a good starter route. Longer but no harder is the Mallory - Porter on the Midi: both lead to the Midi frique. At a tougher grade, the Eugster on the Midi or Fil a Plomb on the Plan are excellent. On the Tacul, accessible from the Cosmiques hut and Midi frique, you have the Chere couloir as an entry level route, or the Triangle. The Gabarrou - Albinoni is very well protected and frankly a soft touch at IV, as is the Lafaille. All these routes have abseil descents. The Modica - Noury is solid V, as is the Supercouloir, which also has a VS rock entry pitch unless you do the very hard direct start.
In the Argentiere basin, Petit Viking and the Dolent north goulotte are superb, with abseil descents: just about V, but with good gear. The Swiss route on the Courtes is a lot easier but you have to go to the top of the peak, and then descend the NE slope. The Argentiere hut is your base here. The Verte Coutourier couloir is easy (barely III) but very long and then you must descend the Whymper to the Couvercle hut - a long way, so more serious.
And all that is just the start. Neige Glace et Mixte is your guidebook (now split in two, I think) which has sensible grades and very clear photo illustrations. Enjoy.
Post edited at 16:46
