UKC

Does anybody have any info or beta on the Bonatti Route on the Grand Capucin? What would the grading be in Uk trad? Are the harder pitches simple to aid?

Cheers

In reply to mtom91:

It's a notorious sandbag, very rarely freed. Fairly straightforward to pull on gear when needed, except on a couple of slab sections. I'd venture a solid E3-ish British grade, though it's never desperate, just very sustained and occasionally quite awkward.

In reply to mtom91:
Here you go:

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xlcvjv_grand-capucin-voie-bonatti-ghigo-1_...

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xlcvj6_grand-capucin-voie-bonatti-ghigo-2_...

And here's Nico climbing the 40m wall free. It gets 7a+ so I think Alex's E3 might be a bit optimistic (unless he means using aid where necessary) - 7a+ usually equates to E5!

youtube.com/watch?v=j4f0CDkD_vY&

In reply to jon:

Yes, E3 if you pull on gear on the 7a+, like everybody does.

In reply to Alex Buisse:
Yes, I realised that after reading your reply again. Sorry about that! I seem to remember also that the free version used to be given 6c, which was certainly an enormous sandbag, even more so as it doesn't follow the line of pegs but breaks out onto the wall on the left. Which is probably another reason most people pull on the gear.