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DESTINATION GUIDE: Mount Arapiles - Australia

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 UKC Articles 05 Jan 2015
Despatched, Arapiles, 1986., 4 kbMount Arapiles (aka. Arapiles) is considered to be one of the finest cliffs in the world.

UKC Advertising Manager Rob Greenwood takes us on a guided tour:

"...it really has got it all: immaculate rock, quality routes, easy access, stable weather and fascinatingly pouch-ridden wildlife..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6830

 Ramon Marin 05 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

I would only add that combined with Grampians, it's perhaps the best rock climbing destination in the world
In reply to Ramon Marin:
I couldn't agree more Ramon.

We'll have a Grampians Destination Guide coming out shortly. Before I went I'd never realised how close the two areas were, maybe I'll re-work the articles to highlight this once they're both out.
Post edited at 13:44
 NottsRich 05 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

The photographs in the article do not even come close to doing it justice. It's a truly amazing place, if a little hot at times!
chopstick 05 Jan 2015
Epic so epic!

If you are a young Brit climber and can do still do your working visa in Australia do it.
Pull up in a tent in the Pines for a month or more, maybe work in the Blue Mountains for another part of your stay.
But if you are at a bit of a career standpoint get on over.
 Tom Briggs 05 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great crag. I don't know whether I'd recommend going there in September though? Maybe late September. I turned up in September and the Pines was deserted, plus it snowed! Climbing is good in December, so long as you're in the shade. Then it gets unbearably hot over NY and the bugs take over.
 Solaris 05 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:
Lovely piece of enthusiasm for a great venue.

It might be worth mentioning that the last photo in the article is of two of the earliest pioneers of climbing at Arapiles – Steve Craddock and Greg Lovejoy. I think I am correct in saying that Steve and his father (both keen climbers who had already pioneered quite a bit in Victoria) saw a picture of Mitre Rock on the front cover of an Australian car magazine and thought, "let's go and check that out". Imagine their reaction when, approaching it in their car, they realised that Mitre Rock was merely the warm up act and that behind it they'd just happened upon the best piece of unclimbed rock in the world!
Post edited at 18:13
 Tobes 05 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC Articles: Absolutely agree with all the above! Been several times at all different times of year and is one of the best places to climb, chill, hook up with randoms, sit around a fire (season permitting) sit in a make shift shanty tent, drink coffee, rock back n forth in a hammock oh and climb.

If you've never been...go!


Steve Craddock 05 Jan 2015
In reply to Solaris: this article was a lovely birthday present for my wife Pat, who took the traverse shot of Greg and I exploring near Ali's in the sixties. I'm the skinny dude in Dachstein mitts giving the negligent belay. I've had the great pleasure of climbing with Solaris at nearby Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton etc in the Gramps. Sadly these places are not great to visit at the moment, having been devastated by bushfires in recent years, but Arap is still fine. I agree with the list of recommended climbs, but I'd also add Siren (our first climb on the crag) and Eskimo Nell.
Steve

 Solaris 05 Jan 2015
In reply to Steve Craddock:

> I'm the skinny dude in Dachstein mitts giving the negligent belay.

That's as maybe. By wearing breeches *and* red socks with your Dachsteins (not to mention the EBs), you score 10/10 for your statement of crag style!
 lex 07 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:
Agree with all the above. Its an excellent place, both from the climbing and wildlife points of view. I had a much too short week there about this time last year and although the temperature got to 46'C(!!!), we still managed to climb very early in the morning or late on in the afternoon.

In addition to the excellent guide (buy it just to read even if your not going anywhere near the crag) I'd also recommend the coffee table book "Arapiles: a million mountains" by Keith Lockwood, one of the pioneers and an enduring local stalwart. Very good for the histories (geological, natural, social and climbing) and for and atmosphere of the place and its many characters.

Cheers,

Lex
Post edited at 12:55
 Pok 07 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

I think this is what I'm going to miss the most about Australia! Truly a great crag. Other climbs to note are Mr Chicken, a totally ungradable caving-style squeeze behind the Watchtower almost 100m off the deck (The only time I've ever seen someone remove their harness just so they can keep climbing); and Punks in the Gym, the world's first 8b+.
 turtlespit 08 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

One addition for "when to visit" - Easter is the busiest time at Arapiles, with climbers all around Australia making the pilgrimage. The extra people does give the place a good energy, but you'll be able to find empty parts of the crag if you really want to (though there will be queues for the classics close to camp).

April is also generally a good time for weather, especially if you're also considering visiting the grampians as well (which gets damper in May-July).
 James Rushforth Global Crag Moderator 08 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Looks amazing. Kachoong has got to be a contender for the most photogenic climb anywhere...
In reply to James Rushforth:

It's one of those photogenic routes that get's a bit of a hard wrap for not being as good as it's cracked up to be.

That said, I couldn't stop smiling throughout - it's hilarious!

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