UKC

Today we have a video featuring a few routes from a blustery autumn in Northern Ireland, climbed by John McCune. It includes a rare ascent of Tolerance E8 6c on Binians North Tor, with its "harrowing mantel"; the first ascent of Duais Arete E7 6b at Fairhead, running it out to the top with a cluster of gear at half height and the second ascent of Ricky Bell's technical slab The Peace Donkey E7 6c/7a on Spellack.

"I guess it shows three quite different routes and styles on varied but quality crags in Northern Ireland."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69423

In reply to UKC News:
Once-again John, an exceptional display of the magnificence of Irish climbing...

I've just booked the long awaited trip to Fairhead in June, I promise to follow it up with an updated 'Top 5 E5s' article in light of the classics climbed throughout that week. The Burren will have to wait until the following year, but I can assure you that I'll be back!

Rob

In reply to UKC News:

Wild routes... What a runout on Duais Arete! So nostalgic seeing footage of the Mournes. Always loved it and glad that its potential has been realised over recent years.

Mick

In reply to UKC News:

That was fantastic to watch. Best trad climbing i've seen in a while. Such a good effort.

In reply to coolbert: Good effort on Duais Arete .. Still not totally convinced as to the title "First Ascent" that is given to such climbs . Should this not be "First Lead" as its obvious due to the large amount of chalk on such climbs that they have already had a "First Ascent" abet on a top rope.

In reply to USBRIT:

I think 'first lead' is a more useful tag for things like unprotected minor eliminates at local venues which have previously seen a fair bit of top rope activity by others (to acknowledge that the line has seen traffic in the past). But for routes no-one else has been on it's a slightly silly point since a FA claim for a top roped line would not be allowed, hence the first ascent is by definition the first lead.