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NEWS: The Dawn Wall Project: History in the Making

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 UKC News 15 Jan 2015
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson on pitch 14, Dawn wall, Yosemite, 3 kbThe Dawn Wall Project is a Project no more. Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson's feat of free climbing the Dawn Wall was a vision which Tommy had dreamed of for years, but the gravity of finally realising this dream could never have been imagined. It's hard to escape the clichés - legendary, conquest, epic, saga and so forth - which attempt to boil down years of commitment and dedication into a single word or phrase.

Let's take a look at the Dawn Wall story following the #DawnWall mania...



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69418
pasbury 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Amazing achievement, a line in the sand for the next generation.
 JLS 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Nice write up but the page format appears a bit odd it IE9 with double sets of scrole bars appearing, making it hard to get to some of the text.
 Graham Hoey 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

20 days, 6 years. Nothing. My mate's spent far longer than that on Mecca (and he's still not managed it!)
 y2keable 15 Jan 2015
"These Two Lads Are Spending 10 Days Climbing A 3000ft Cliff Face"

Aren't cliffs those wet tall things where seagulls live?
 maxtheclimber 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:
amazing.

bet it sees a quick repeat. hopefully by ultimate duo of megos and ondra.
Post edited at 12:19
 apollo18 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:
Good article Natalie. Nice to read about the story from all angles.
Post edited at 13:01
 Dell 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

I had to laugh, cos it's sort of true :-D

http://www.thedailymash.co.uk/news/international/two-idiots-climb-big-thing...

Is there any record of the cumulative height climbed, ie: Total height plus all the falls added up?
In reply to UKC News:

Amused by your use of the word 'gravity' here. I think something like 'loftiness' or 'stature' might have been more appropriate, given that the exercise was all about defying gravity,
 Martin Haworth 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

It is undoubtably a great achievement and some very hard climbing but I find myself put off by the level of hype, it certainly gets the title of the most hyped climb ever.
My take of it is that it is a load of redpointed pitches done one after another, no significant "risk" or adventure element to it and not great style.
Other recent ascents have impressed me more such as the patagonia traverse, solo of the south face of Annapurna...
2
 rtinma 15 Jan 2015
In reply to Martin Haworth:

For once Rock Climbing reaches an audience beyond the climbing community and you go all purist! This climb has caught the imagination of many people because of its audacity, the sheer determination of the climbers over many years of unsung endeavour, the grit of Jorgeson finally overcoming pitch 15, the beauty of Yosemite, the fascination with the logistics of big wall climbing, and the engaging personalities of the climbers. Can we not just enjoy their achievement and celebrate this particular and peculiar kind of climbing?
 Martin Haworth 15 Jan 2015
In reply to rtinma:

I just find it such an American approach and maybe i'm too British.

Anyway they will be hacked off when they find out that Eric Jones soloed this line in 1968 but didn't tell anyone because he didn't want any fuss.
 gdnknf 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

A fantastic achievement on which I congratulate Kevin and Tommy. Well done gentlemen. True persistence and dedication towards a purely philosophical goal is what defines climbing and I'm sure they will remember it forever. Superb effort.

A bit disappointed by Leo on Radio 2 when he described Everest as 'a big walk' and implied that climbing Everest was incomparable in achievement to this ascent of Dawn Wall. I think anyone who has read John Hunt's account 'The Ascent of Everest' (or if you prefer, Everest 1953 by Mick Conefrey which is considerably more readable) will know that this simply isn't true. A first ascent, regardless of style, will always be significant but there is just no denying that the first ascent of Everest was easily comparable in achievement.

For me, Caldwell's most impressive achievement recently has been the Fitzroy traverse with Honnold. That for me was very inspiring and makes we want to get out there and climb. Can't say I know much about Kevin.

It doesn't really matter - it's a great achievement which we are all impressed by and the boys are certainly proud of. They probably feel like I did the first time I climbed Central Buttress.

I hope the BBC will cover some British climbing achievements next (heck - there are a lot of them!).


 rtinma 15 Jan 2015
In reply to Martin Haworth:

You have a point, but it's rare to get such coverage which may well inspire people to take up climbing. I personally find the achievement of Gaz Parry spending 20 days on Supersonico just as inspiring.
 Bulls Crack 15 Jan 2015
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Tend to agree with you but it's there for the ground-up/flash!
 Michael Gordon 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

An amazing story. Bit like one of Dave MacLeod's long term projects but much more. A lifetime's ambition achieved. Wonder what Tommy will do with the rest of the year? Finding another one will not be easy!
 Steve nevers 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Great to see it getting done, must be a fantastic feeling for all involved.

I've got a tenner on Pete W & Tom R tying to ground up it within 2 years.
 dodfoster 15 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Bit of a faux pas from ol'Barack Obama in his 'congratulations' message ("So proud of Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson for conquering El Capitan....") given what Kevin Jorgeson tweeted i.e. "To anyone writing about dawnwall (can't find the hashtag key), this is not an effort to 'conquer'. It's about realizing a dream."

Right old effort though!
 JJL 15 Jan 2015
In reply to Steve nevers:

I'll take that bet (if you're serious). Those guys are impressive, but not for this kind of thing. They can't climb 9a.
 JJL 15 Jan 2015
In reply to rtinma:

> it's rare to get such coverage which may well inspire people to take up climbing.

And why on earth would we want to do that?


 JJL 15 Jan 2015
In reply to gdnknf:

> A bit disappointed by Leo on Radio 2

Actually, I'm a bit confused here - wasn't The Prophet a ground up free ascent of nearby terrain, or is it on the other side?
 john arran 15 Jan 2015
In reply to gdnknf:
> A bit disappointed by Leo on Radio 2 when he described Everest as 'a big walk' and implied that climbing Everest was incomparable in achievement to this ascent of Dawn Wall. I think anyone who has read John Hunt's account 'The Ascent of Everest' (or if you prefer, Everest 1953 by Mick Conefrey which is considerably more readable) will know that this simply isn't true. A first ascent, regardless of style, will always be significant but there is just no denying that the first ascent of Everest was easily comparable in achievement.

I can't say I heard Leo on R2 but I think you're probably missing the point here. I doubt very much he would have been suggesting that the first ascent of Everest wasn't cutting edge in its day, but non-climbers nowadays often consider a modern-day ascent Everest as the ultimate in climbing achievement. I reckon with current fitness all I would need to climb the big E would be several tens of thousands of dollars, a good guide and a modicum of luck with weather and conditions. To try Dawn Wall free I would need to go away and train for ten years, by which time I would hope to be capable of redpointing most of the non-crux pitches. And I'm a specialist trad climber rather than a mountaineer! In terms of quantifiable difficulty in today's terms there simply is no comparison whatsoever.
 mark s 15 Jan 2015
In reply to gdnknf:


> A bit disappointed by Leo on Radio 2 when he described Everest as 'a big walk' and implied that climbing Everest was incomparable in achievement to this ascent of Dawn Wall. I think anyone who has read John Hunt's account 'The Ascent of Everest' (or if you prefer, Everest 1953 by Mick Conefrey which is considerably more readable) will know that this simply isn't true. A first ascent, regardless of style, will always be significant but there is just no denying that the first ascent of Everest was easily comparable in achievement.

leo is qualified to call it a big walk,like john said its to point out to non climbers walking up everest is like getting out of bed compared to doing this.

chuffer 15 Jan 2015
In reply to Steve nevers:

> I've got a tenner on Pete W & Tom R tying to ground up it within 2 years.

I wouldn't be so sure. In the latest Wideboyz lecture Tom said that Tommy and Kevin invited them to go up and look at it but they weren't keen cos it looked too chuffin hard.
 jimjimjim 15 Jan 2015
In reply to Martin Haworth:

I agree. Another route on el cap doesn't really excite me. I know it a big achievement and taking nothing away from the climbers but it seems the media have got a little carried away. Radio 2 today....The guy covering Vine keeped saying things like "no one has ever climbed this cliff before etc" and they use no equipment just their bare bleeding hands! Oh well. Just shows how much they must know about other things they talk about.
Well done to the lads that did it though
 Morgan Woods 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Martin Haworth:

> I just find it such an American approach and maybe i'm too British.

> Anyway they will be hacked off when they find out that Eric Jones soloed this line in 1968 but didn't tell anyone because he didn't want any fuss.

I thought Rich Simpson did it in trainers a few years back.
 Eki 16 Jan 2015
In reply to jimjimjim:
I'm a bit confused about this "team ascent" tactics. Did they belay every pitch the other climber did? Caldwell was at one point
Way ahead of Jorgeson, so did they go back and forth the route in order to let the other climber give it another go? (Sorry 4 the non-native output.)
 JLS 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Eki:

>"so did they go back and forth the route in order to let the other climber give it another go?"

Yes, they were camped out at pitch 15 for a while and used fixed ropes to move up from there to wherever Tommy's next pitch was.
 Doug 16 Jan 2015
According to 20 minutes (free French newspaper) this was the first free ascent of El Capitan ! (tempted to tell the them that there's a path on the other side)
 neilwiltshire 16 Jan 2015
In reply to JLS:

Even Microsoft have abandoned IE, use a modern browser.
 JLS 16 Jan 2015
In reply to neilwiltshire:

I'll be sure to mention it to the chief exec, of the 30,000 people corporation I work for, the next time I see them.
 neilwiltshire 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Martin Haworth:

I agree about the style, I think its a bit of an odd style to climb in and I think describing it as a whole load of redpointed pitches is fairly accurate. I find the notion of returning to a base camp on the wall after completing hard pitches fairly arbitrary, is that really any different to returning to the ground? If they moved their camp up the wall with each pitch as they went this would seem to be a bit purer to me. But on the other hand, maybe I'm talking bollocks.

Its clearly a monumental achievement, and I am ok with the hype, even happy about it. I think its great to give people an look at the climbing world and what climbing is.

It does make you question the quality of mainstream journalism in general though when time and again the facts are massively wrong (I read "first ascent of El Cap" somewhere), and an inability to put the actual process of climbing into sensible words (the phrase "fingertip grips" springs to mind). If they get it this wrong for climbing then what else do they get horribly wrong on a day to day basis?
 neilwiltshire 16 Jan 2015
In reply to JLS:

That's the spirit!
 Dell 16 Jan 2015
In reply to neilwiltshire:

Get the story out first! Worry about the facts later.
Journos don't have the time to check and research every news article. I try to read between the lines on every news article, there's always gonna be something omitted/embellished.
 Max factor 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Steve nevers:
"I've got a tenner on Pete W & Tom R tying to ground up it within 2 years."

I would be staggered if this is even attempted ground up in the next 25 years. Friction climbing on tiny granite nobbles is far too knacky and on/off to have a reasonable chance of success without extensive rehearsal. Single pitch limestone overhanging stamina-fests are a totally different kettle of fish.

Also, how many Euro-wad 9a climbers also have the big wall experience to have a pop? (Leaving aside that evidently you can get others to manage the logistics for you!).
Post edited at 10:50
 JLS 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Max factor:

>"Also, how many Euro-wad 9a climbers also have the big wall experience to have a pop?"

If someone can work out how to get a human body into 9a condition then I'm pretty sure they'd be able to work out how to haul a big bag up a cliff.

I expect if they practiced for a week on an easier route they'd soon get their eye in. I mean the time to beat is twenty days. I doubt inefficient bag hauling would be the crux of the matter. Only two pitches a day would still leave 5 days for moving camps up the wall.
 Robert Durran 16 Jan 2015
In reply to JLS:

> I mean the time to beat is twenty days.

Improvement in style is not the same as beating some speed record. Ground up in 100 days would be a massive improvement in style.
 Big Steve 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Robert Durran:

I wonder when DJ Viper will go for the onsight?
 JLS 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Robert Durran:

I agreed. But I think ground up is a while off yet.

I think it more likely 6 years work and 20 day push will be "improved" to 6 weeks work and 14 day push before any real "style" improvement occurs.
 Robert Durran 16 Jan 2015
In reply to JLS:

> I think it more likely 6 years work and 20 day push will be "improved" to 6 weeks work and 14 day push before any real "style" improvement occurs.

Dispensing with support would be the obvious and most achievable improvement in style.

 Max factor 16 Jan 2015
In reply to JLS:

> I agreed. But I think ground up is a while off yet.

> I think it more likely 6 years work and 20 day push will be "improved" to 6 weeks work and 14 day push before any real "style" improvement occurs.

Is that really an improvement in style? it's just a bit quicker.

I don't think ground up is realistic (for reasons outlined earlier), so where does that leave potential for improvement? hmmm...
 Skyfall 16 Jan 2015
In reply to neilwiltshire:

> It does make you question the quality of mainstream journalism in general though when time and again the facts are massively wrong (I read "first ascent of El Cap" somewhere), and an inability to put the actual process of climbing into sensible words (the phrase "fingertip grips" springs to mind). If they get it this wrong for climbing then what else do they get horribly wrong on a day to day basis?

This realisation came to me years ago and, yes, I completely agree. Anything I know a lot about (including climbing and my professional work) are almost always misrepresented in the media and details are laughably wrong. As you say, it suggests that nothing is accurately portrayed, or quite rarely. Scary really.
 John2 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Skyfall:

If anyone's interested, today's Times contains a helpful 'what's next?' article listing 'the hardest free climbing challenges remaining'.

They are: The Shield, El Capitan (2,900 ft); Southeast Face, Mt Tyree, Antarctica (6,600 ft); Northeast Face, Masherbrum, Pakistan (11,483 ft); Northwest Face, The Devil's Thumb, Alaska (6700 ft).
 Michael Gordon 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Skyfall:

The trouble is the general public don't understand the jargon (you can't even say simple words like 'pitch' without having to define what you're talking about). This is probably because these big media events are pretty rare (not the week to week reporting you get with mainstream sports) so the terms never enter the public consciousness often enough to be taken in. Contrast it with something mainstream like golf where there is jargon all over the place but it is reported on so often that it is understood by anyone who wants to.

Thus with climbing it all has to be put so simply that it's like explaining things to a child. If you did have a well informed reporter they'd still have to put things in layman's terms or no-one would understand them.
 Smith42 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Max factor:

I d have a tenner on this being ground upped in five days within the next five years.

That said, it still stands as a massive pioneering achievement and testament to Kevin and Tommys vision and determination and should always be remembered for that.

The lads did themselves and the climbing community proud.
 Max factor 16 Jan 2015
In reply to Smith42:

I'd take that bet, but would feel bad about taking your money.
 Graham Hoey 16 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:
A few snippets:

I contacted the Today program on Radio 4 because I was fed up with hearing this was the first free ascent of El Cap. They ignored me

Tom Randall said an interviewer was most put out when he told her it wasn't possible to describe this as the hardest climb in the World.

Re. Everest, Doug Scot told me that it as hard as walking up Snowdon in winter breathing through a straw!

Franz the Stampede 16 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:
The Dawn Wall is quite a leap forward in free climbing big walls in Yosemite. If I'm not mistaken, the hardest pitch freed on a Yosemite big wall before the 9a ones on the Dawn Wall was still Changing Corners of the Nose, 8b+/8c.
However, POTENTIALLY similar vertical and technical face climbing on granite has seen some serious action already 4 years ago, albeit on a shorter climb and protected with bolts:

One day ascent:
Pitch 1 7b+: flash
Pitch 2 7c+: flash
Pitch 3 8a+: flash
Pitch 4 7c: flash
Pitch 5 8a+: flash
Pitch 6 8a+: flash
Pitch 7 8b+: 2nd go
Pitch 8 8b+: flash
Pitch 9 8b+: 2nd go
Pitch 10 8b: flash

; )

There's no reason the Dawn Wall can't be climbed ground up in one single attempt of a few days, especially once all that quality footage will be released.

Also, I wish this came out and had mainstream media pointed at earlier, it would have spared everybody from a lot of nonsense
http://www.restjug.com/2015/01/10-things-non-climbers-should-know-about-the...

Very, very interesting to hear about Tom Randall trying to be honest and objective and some journalist obviously being put off by something not as great as she thought. Think of all the times they do that on news we can't judge as well as climbing news (politics, economics, crime, demographics etc etc).
Post edited at 21:40
 tsl42 16 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

This is all well and good, but what have they done on grit?
 Ian Parsons 17 Jan 2015
In reply to tsl42:

> This is all well and good, but what have they done on grit?

You omitted the customary suffix: "....oh, hang on a minute...."!
 Eki 17 Jan 2015
In reply to tsl42:

> This is all well and good, but what have they done on grit?

They had it coming :-D.
1
Franz the Stampede 17 Jan 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Eheheh... Master's Edge, Balance It is and Messiah, all flash.

Fingers on the buzzers... You may not Google, one of you may buzz.

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