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I'm off up to brown cove in morning setting from Blackpool about 430 am, bought a new head torch fancy trying it out on an easy grade lol. Started this new thread , rules of are conditions only please. Other thread takes too long to get to bottom
In reply to stuart58:
Has anyone been skiing at Raise? Tossing up between lugging the skis up there for the first time and doing an easy climb on Friday. Don't want to regret skiing if the snow is awful! Any ideas? Thanks!
Has anyone been skiing at Raise? Tossing up between lugging the skis up there for the first time and doing an easy climb on Friday. Don't want to regret skiing if the snow is awful! Any ideas? Thanks!
In reply to stuart58:
Climbed brown cove -right hand gully tonight. Was hoping for moonlight had to settle for torchlight
Soft knee deep snow at the bottom of the crag. Route was firm generaly with good neve in places but not throughout. Small sections of ice lower down with a small section of soft powder romp in the middle. Top of the exit slope is built up slightly but there is a way through it easily
Not as firm as I was expecting.
Climbed brown cove -right hand gully tonight. Was hoping for moonlight had to settle for torchlight
Soft knee deep snow at the bottom of the crag. Route was firm generaly with good neve in places but not throughout. Small sections of ice lower down with a small section of soft powder romp in the middle. Top of the exit slope is built up slightly but there is a way through it easily
Not as firm as I was expecting.
Went out to solo Little Gully, left of Great Gully, on Pavey yesterday.
As noted by others, the snow is generally not good. I encountered very soft snow that wouldn't support an axe placement and balling on crampons. The first very short pitch was thin and wet with mud beneath the soft snow. The snow didn't improve above this so I abandoned the attempt. Even with a climbing partner and rope it wouldn't have been good. It's all there but not in condition.
As noted by others, the snow is generally not good. I encountered very soft snow that wouldn't support an axe placement and balling on crampons. The first very short pitch was thin and wet with mud beneath the soft snow. The snow didn't improve above this so I abandoned the attempt. Even with a climbing partner and rope it wouldn't have been good. It's all there but not in condition.
In reply to stuart58:
Love ice climbing, hate long walk ins.......
Is there any low level ice forming in ghylls? I'm thinking Launchy Ghyll, Hause Icefall
Tebay icefalls were starting to form when I drove past on the M6 yesterday.
If no low level ice is about I guess I'm just gonna have to get my ar5e up higher!
Love ice climbing, hate long walk ins.......
Is there any low level ice forming in ghylls? I'm thinking Launchy Ghyll, Hause Icefall
Tebay icefalls were starting to form when I drove past on the M6 yesterday.
If no low level ice is about I guess I'm just gonna have to get my ar5e up higher!
In reply to scon:
Just got back from cove timewas short so only did descent gully but what a moon full on range at 6.00 am walking in with new head torch could been in the alps, weather isgood but conditions a varied ice is iindifferent and snow powder at bottom but good hard nerve top but a glorious morning all round
Just got back from cove timewas short so only did descent gully but what a moon full on range at 6.00 am walking in with new head torch could been in the alps, weather isgood but conditions a varied ice is iindifferent and snow powder at bottom but good hard nerve top but a glorious morning all round
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Anyone been on gable crag recently? Anyone know what the conditions are like?
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In reply to chris smith:
Gable was in great condition 2 days ago for the mixed routes, its stayed cold and doesn't get sun so should still be good I'd think...
Photos here
http://www.mountaincircles.com/blog/
Gable was in great condition 2 days ago for the mixed routes, its stayed cold and doesn't get sun so should still be good I'd think...
Photos here
http://www.mountaincircles.com/blog/
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In reply to paddy cave:
If you read the statement in the FRCC Langdale guide from Steve Scott and Max Biden, 2013, they express concerns that classic summer rock routes are being damaged by ascents using winter hardware.
They comment that ascents in winter with modern gear are not dissimilar from previous summer aid climbs.
Are you climbing responsibly and conserving our fantastic classic rock heritage by "forcing" a winter ascent with ice tools? What are you trying to prove?
It is not adequate to say "well it's in the guide", because things have moved on dramatically since SS in 2003, and since the FRCC statement of 2013 (yes it took 10 years for the Lakes fraternity to see sense) and many are concerned about damage and vandalism to 3 star rock classics.
I would add that Engineers Slabs (Balcombe, 1934 I believe, without ice tools) gets full evening sun.
DC
If you read the statement in the FRCC Langdale guide from Steve Scott and Max Biden, 2013, they express concerns that classic summer rock routes are being damaged by ascents using winter hardware.
They comment that ascents in winter with modern gear are not dissimilar from previous summer aid climbs.
Are you climbing responsibly and conserving our fantastic classic rock heritage by "forcing" a winter ascent with ice tools? What are you trying to prove?
It is not adequate to say "well it's in the guide", because things have moved on dramatically since SS in 2003, and since the FRCC statement of 2013 (yes it took 10 years for the Lakes fraternity to see sense) and many are concerned about damage and vandalism to 3 star rock classics.
I would add that Engineers Slabs (Balcombe, 1934 I believe, without ice tools) gets full evening sun.
DC
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In reply to eifion.jones:
I went up jacks rake at 8am yesterday. snow was brilliant then - perfect neve!
I went up jacks rake at 8am yesterday. snow was brilliant then - perfect neve!
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Where in my previous reaponse did I say that I was going to climb engineers slab?
I have done that route in summer and it's one of my all time favourite VS climbs. wouldn't ruin it with axes.
I was looking at pinnacle ridge and engineers chimney. I appreciate you are wanting to preserve the classics but no need to lecture. Once again the thread is being led away from its original purpose.
Thanks for the update on conditions I will he'd up that way.
I have done that route in summer and it's one of my all time favourite VS climbs. wouldn't ruin it with axes.
I was looking at pinnacle ridge and engineers chimney. I appreciate you are wanting to preserve the classics but no need to lecture. Once again the thread is being led away from its original purpose.
Thanks for the update on conditions I will he'd up that way.
In reply to stuart58:
So much for "let's keep this thread about conditions"!
Did Birkett's Gully above Blea Water late afternoon yesterday. It was in pretty good condition. Several good ice pitches. Also plenty of flowing water under the ice... which was slightly more visible than I would have liked at a few points. Snow soft until just below the top, although that won't have been helped by the lateness of our ascent. Other routes appeared to be in condition as well (although I didn't have time for a close look). Plenty of ice on the road by Haweswater... so be careful.
So much for "let's keep this thread about conditions"!
Did Birkett's Gully above Blea Water late afternoon yesterday. It was in pretty good condition. Several good ice pitches. Also plenty of flowing water under the ice... which was slightly more visible than I would have liked at a few points. Snow soft until just below the top, although that won't have been helped by the lateness of our ascent. Other routes appeared to be in condition as well (although I didn't have time for a close look). Plenty of ice on the road by Haweswater... so be careful.
In reply to redsonja:
Very little snow until you get to the exit ramps. Wind has stripped a lot of snow from Blencathra (you won't believe me on the approach though).
Very little snow until you get to the exit ramps. Wind has stripped a lot of snow from Blencathra (you won't believe me on the approach though).
Anyone been on Tarn and Falcon Drags in the Dollywagon area?
Thanks
Thanks
In reply to Dave Cumberland: this is not a condition but a rant create a new thread thats why this thread was created. i was up on brown cove yesterday consditions vary with height and location at mo
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In reply to redsonja:
I wouldn't write it off, its still good fun! Looked a bit like this this friday - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10155268486635294&set=a.1015150...
Ollie.
I wouldn't write it off, its still good fun! Looked a bit like this this friday - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10155268486635294&set=a.1015150...
Ollie.
In reply to stuart58:
I think you are missing your own point. I was out yesterday amongst routes in good condition. Engineer's Slab is NOT one of those and will be damaged as a result.
DC
> this is not a condition but a rant create a new thread thats why this thread was created. i was up on brown cove yesterday consditions vary with height and location at mo
I think you are missing your own point. I was out yesterday amongst routes in good condition. Engineer's Slab is NOT one of those and will be damaged as a result.
DC
In reply to stuart58:
Anyone been on Nethermost gully in the last couple of days? Thinking about heading there tomorrow. Cheers for any info!
Anyone been on Nethermost gully in the last couple of days? Thinking about heading there tomorrow. Cheers for any info!
In reply to benji:
Avalanche-prone as temperature rises next two days.
http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Helvellyn/forecasts/950
Friday morning should still be safe.
Avalanche-prone as temperature rises next two days.
http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Helvellyn/forecasts/950
Friday morning should still be safe.
In reply to chris smith:
Photo of Falcon crag, Cock cove, and part of Ruthwaite cove here: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog
Was looking very promising on Tuesday afternoon when the photo was taken.
Photo of Falcon crag, Cock cove, and part of Ruthwaite cove here: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog
Was looking very promising on Tuesday afternoon when the photo was taken.
In reply to RayMcGarry:
We did Bleak Water Gill today. Over a 100m of easy angled ice with just a few interruptions. Water running under the ice however and though we got screws in all the way up I wasn't convinced by them all. Grand outing. I second the caution about the lakeside road. VERY icy.
We did Bleak Water Gill today. Over a 100m of easy angled ice with just a few interruptions. Water running under the ice however and though we got screws in all the way up I wasn't convinced by them all. Grand outing. I second the caution about the lakeside road. VERY icy.
In reply to stuart58:
We were at Brown Cove Crags today (as were a lot of other people!). Conditions pretty much as previously described here; pretty variable. A number of teams on Central Gully, which had a good pitch of ice at the start but looked pretty lean: https://www.flickr.com/photos/50907229@N06/15831822813/
We did the two parallel grade I gullies at the left end (came back down the left one). They both had patches of neve but also patches of (quite compacted) powdery stuff. Both great fun! There are a couple of icy steps at the bottom of the right gully: https://www.flickr.com/photos/50907229@N06/16265688419/in/photostream/
We were at Brown Cove Crags today (as were a lot of other people!). Conditions pretty much as previously described here; pretty variable. A number of teams on Central Gully, which had a good pitch of ice at the start but looked pretty lean: https://www.flickr.com/photos/50907229@N06/15831822813/
We did the two parallel grade I gullies at the left end (came back down the left one). They both had patches of neve but also patches of (quite compacted) powdery stuff. Both great fun! There are a couple of icy steps at the bottom of the right gully: https://www.flickr.com/photos/50907229@N06/16265688419/in/photostream/
Not making any comment on climbing conditions as I'm not a climber but a few pics of Gable Crag and Great End today if they are of any use. Lots of parties on Great End.
Gable Crag from above Beck Head.
[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8682/16452147675_e868c23347_b.jpg[/img]
Great End from Sprinkling Tarn.
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/16451195682_265dd5b619_b.jpg[/img]
Great End from slightly further up the path to Esk Hause.
[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8653/15829620694_74c04c8287_b.jpg[/img]
Gable Crag from above Beck Head.
[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8682/16452147675_e868c23347_b.jpg[/img]
Great End from Sprinkling Tarn.
[img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/16451195682_265dd5b619_b.jpg[/img]
Great End from slightly further up the path to Esk Hause.
[img]https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8653/15829620694_74c04c8287_b.jpg[/img]
In reply to stuart58:
Lot of water ice on Helvellyn (some in places it rarely forms). V Corner was good (4 parties in all) others on Viking Buttress. Turf solid, the corner pitch it self was a bit scant in places so more top end III-IV. The only snowpack of slight concern was the top snowslope (fine while its cold but stratified...didnt pit it). Investigated the cornice and found the covered over but not filled in fracture line had seen last week 10-12 feet back from the edge. great day
Lot of water ice on Helvellyn (some in places it rarely forms). V Corner was good (4 parties in all) others on Viking Buttress. Turf solid, the corner pitch it self was a bit scant in places so more top end III-IV. The only snowpack of slight concern was the top snowslope (fine while its cold but stratified...didnt pit it). Investigated the cornice and found the covered over but not filled in fracture line had seen last week 10-12 feet back from the edge. great day
In reply to andreadawn: Did window gully on great end today,was in good nic.Window gully icefall is formed and is probably climable but cud do to fatten up abit more.
In reply to stuart58:
Kilnshaw Chimney was a little slushy at the top and bottom were the sun has got to this evening, a little warmer than forecast too I got 7.5 degrees on the van thermometer today so a mild thaw at all levels I recon. Good hard frozen steps in the middle section of the chimney were shaded from the sun, by the time I walked over to the summit and back down the chimney the top and bottom were starting to refreeze with the temps dropping in the dark. It seems a little mild this weekend for climbing?? maybe very early or at night is the best way to go. Set off from work at 5:15 back home for 8:15 so 2 routes and a summit before the thaw sets in.
Kilnshaw Chimney was a little slushy at the top and bottom were the sun has got to this evening, a little warmer than forecast too I got 7.5 degrees on the van thermometer today so a mild thaw at all levels I recon. Good hard frozen steps in the middle section of the chimney were shaded from the sun, by the time I walked over to the summit and back down the chimney the top and bottom were starting to refreeze with the temps dropping in the dark. It seems a little mild this weekend for climbing?? maybe very early or at night is the best way to go. Set off from work at 5:15 back home for 8:15 so 2 routes and a summit before the thaw sets in.
Lower level conditions are pants...
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=853559438024264&id=10...
https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=853559438024264&id=10...
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In reply to Andy Can:
Link doesn't work - can you tell us what you found and where? Cheers - trying to think of a plan for Saturday!
Link doesn't work - can you tell us what you found and where? Cheers - trying to think of a plan for Saturday!
In reply to TobyA:
Yes same here Toby looking for something for both days, looks like we are all going to be crammed into the high crags then.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203620648053539&set=pcb.102036206...
Yes same here Toby looking for something for both days, looks like we are all going to be crammed into the high crags then.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203620648053539&set=pcb.102036206...
Post edited at 22:10
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In reply to TobyA:
Honister Falls are partially formed- ice not bonded to rock - @5pm it was 3 degrees - not climb able for another week at least.
Just checked the link and it does work
Honister Falls are partially formed- ice not bonded to rock - @5pm it was 3 degrees - not climb able for another week at least.
Just checked the link and it does work
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In reply to Andy Can:
We went up yesterday to do Bowfell Buttress which is definitely NOT in, melting snow on the ledges only. Could have practically climbed it in rock boots and thing gloves yesterday. Didn't stop people getting on it however. You're only cheating yourselves!
Cambridge Crags opposite were in really good nick, bomber turf. Tried a possible new line up there, but spent too long finding zero gear, so did one of the IV lines to the top of the crag.
Bowfell Buttress (V 6)
No Way Out (IV 5)
We went up yesterday to do Bowfell Buttress which is definitely NOT in, melting snow on the ledges only. Could have practically climbed it in rock boots and thing gloves yesterday. Didn't stop people getting on it however. You're only cheating yourselves!
Cambridge Crags opposite were in really good nick, bomber turf. Tried a possible new line up there, but spent too long finding zero gear, so did one of the IV lines to the top of the crag.
Bowfell Buttress (V 6)
No Way Out (IV 5)
Post edited at 07:39
In reply to Andy Can:
Pic of Bowfell Buttress here: https://twitter.com/johnrobeds/status/563609613657198592
It was melting all morning and was even more stripped a few hours later.
Pic of Bowfell Buttress here: https://twitter.com/johnrobeds/status/563609613657198592
It was melting all morning and was even more stripped a few hours later.
In reply to Andy Can:
FYI The link doesnt work for the world and its friends...you have to set the permissions in facebook for public viewing
FYI The link doesnt work for the world and its friends...you have to set the permissions in facebook for public viewing
In reply to stuart58:
From Blackpool too. Did a long walk in the Lakes the other day as training for Scottish winter climbing. Went past Great End and it looks in good nick at the moment but could change on a daily basis....
From Blackpool too. Did a long walk in the Lakes the other day as training for Scottish winter climbing. Went past Great End and it looks in good nick at the moment but could change on a daily basis....
In reply to Andy Can:
I presume you've just got it set on "friends" on the privacy settings. I'm not demanding to see you facebook feed or anything, just noting that it's not visible to me and presumably most others on this thread who aren't FB friends with you!
> Just checked the link and it does work
I presume you've just got it set on "friends" on the privacy settings. I'm not demanding to see you facebook feed or anything, just noting that it's not visible to me and presumably most others on this thread who aren't FB friends with you!
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
Really interesting that Cambridge is in while Bowfell looks almost warm to the touch in your picture! Presumably Cambridge is just a bit more N facing and shady? I'm very confused about what to suggest to try with my mate tomorrow now... Someone give me some inspiration to fit the following criteria!
-He hasn't winter climbed in ages (we used to climb lots together back when we were at uni in Glasgow) but is running keenly now so should be fine in terms of hill fitness.
-He doesn't want to do harder than III because its such a long time since he has climbed (fair enough) even though I'll be leading.
-I don't want to do easier than III because I'm a grade snob who thinks IIs aren't "proper climbing" (despite knowing that this is actually bollocks having had a great day doing Pinnacle Ridge on my own a month back).
-the air temperature is likely to be above freezing by mid day, even on the highest summits http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcttycjwz
Conundrums, conundrums....
And I don't suppose anyone reading this who has been over Bowfell this past week found my gear did they? http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=608259 The offer of proper whiskey as a finders fee still stands to the kind and honest person who can reunite me with it!
Really interesting that Cambridge is in while Bowfell looks almost warm to the touch in your picture! Presumably Cambridge is just a bit more N facing and shady? I'm very confused about what to suggest to try with my mate tomorrow now... Someone give me some inspiration to fit the following criteria!
-He hasn't winter climbed in ages (we used to climb lots together back when we were at uni in Glasgow) but is running keenly now so should be fine in terms of hill fitness.
-He doesn't want to do harder than III because its such a long time since he has climbed (fair enough) even though I'll be leading.
-I don't want to do easier than III because I'm a grade snob who thinks IIs aren't "proper climbing" (despite knowing that this is actually bollocks having had a great day doing Pinnacle Ridge on my own a month back).
-the air temperature is likely to be above freezing by mid day, even on the highest summits http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcttycjwz
Conundrums, conundrums....
And I don't suppose anyone reading this who has been over Bowfell this past week found my gear did they? http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=608259 The offer of proper whiskey as a finders fee still stands to the kind and honest person who can reunite me with it!
Post edited at 10:55
In reply to TobyA:
Was going to suggest Pendulum Ridge on Scrubby but it's south facing so might be bare. Hutaple Crag?
Blea Water Gill or Birkett's Gully. There were shots posted on here of BWG recently so it might still be in.
Was going to suggest Pendulum Ridge on Scrubby but it's south facing so might be bare. Hutaple Crag?
Blea Water Gill or Birkett's Gully. There were shots posted on here of BWG recently so it might still be in.
In reply to Bob:
I was thinking PR as well - I've wanted to do it for some time, plus there's the gully next to it at II/III if my mate thinks the start looks a bit spicy. BUT I hadn't realised it was south facing (hadn't carefully consulted the guide yet) so I think that makes it less likely to be in proper conditions. We'll be coming in from M6 so Helvellyn/Fairfield/Langdale all make sense in terms of getting there, but I'd actually love to do something on the Scafells if conditions were likely to be better round that side...
I will investigate your other suggestions - thanks!
I was thinking PR as well - I've wanted to do it for some time, plus there's the gully next to it at II/III if my mate thinks the start looks a bit spicy. BUT I hadn't realised it was south facing (hadn't carefully consulted the guide yet) so I think that makes it less likely to be in proper conditions. We'll be coming in from M6 so Helvellyn/Fairfield/Langdale all make sense in terms of getting there, but I'd actually love to do something on the Scafells if conditions were likely to be better round that side...
I will investigate your other suggestions - thanks!
In reply to chris smith:
Great Gable looked ok yesterday, saw at least 6 teams climbing on there. The sun didn't touch it all day.
Great Gable looked ok yesterday, saw at least 6 teams climbing on there. The sun didn't touch it all day.
In reply to samharrison7:
I was at Brown Cove Crag yesterday - Central Gully in good nick, not at all lean, mostly easy but the entry pitch had some nice ice plus some ice higher up including a nice little bulge - was a very nice outing. Followed by a walk over to Swirral and down to No 1 gully above Red tarn. Very straightforward in the narrows - it's often harder than it was yesterday - plenty of snow and some useful ice and neve for the axes - they never felt insecure but for the feet, while easy the lumpy surface over the firmer stuff always made footwork a little harder work being wary of the top layer, but don't let that put you off. Heard voices on Viking and from the crags L of No 2 but was quite lonely and didn't meet a soul, even on the summit.
Upper slope above the gully - looser stuff with solidity to be found for the axe shaft and feet when well kicked in, but treated warily - at no point was it particularly worrying however and the effort was physical rather than mental.
I was at Brown Cove Crag yesterday - Central Gully in good nick, not at all lean, mostly easy but the entry pitch had some nice ice plus some ice higher up including a nice little bulge - was a very nice outing. Followed by a walk over to Swirral and down to No 1 gully above Red tarn. Very straightforward in the narrows - it's often harder than it was yesterday - plenty of snow and some useful ice and neve for the axes - they never felt insecure but for the feet, while easy the lumpy surface over the firmer stuff always made footwork a little harder work being wary of the top layer, but don't let that put you off. Heard voices on Viking and from the crags L of No 2 but was quite lonely and didn't meet a soul, even on the summit.
Upper slope above the gully - looser stuff with solidity to be found for the axe shaft and feet when well kicked in, but treated warily - at no point was it particularly worrying however and the effort was physical rather than mental.
In reply to TobyA:
Inspiration:
Pinnacle Ridge on Great Gable and / or something on Green Gable.
Deep Ghyll Integrale on Scafell. If the freezing level is low enough you can climb the Shamrock Icefalls (II / III with a single pitch of IV) to get to Lords Rake, come down Lords Rake a little and then do DGI which would make an excellent day out.
(It takes about 1hr 40min to drive around the cost from Kendal to Wasdale though, so allow for that in your calculations.)
Inspiration:
Pinnacle Ridge on Great Gable and / or something on Green Gable.
Deep Ghyll Integrale on Scafell. If the freezing level is low enough you can climb the Shamrock Icefalls (II / III with a single pitch of IV) to get to Lords Rake, come down Lords Rake a little and then do DGI which would make an excellent day out.
(It takes about 1hr 40min to drive around the cost from Kendal to Wasdale though, so allow for that in your calculations.)
Post edited at 11:52
In reply to TobyA:
Hi Toby,
I had a look around for your stuff last night (this morning to be precise) - I couldn't see anything unfortunately.
FWIW the slight thaw yesterday and refreeze over night made for good conditions. It seems warmer today though.
> And I don't suppose anyone reading this who has been over Bowfell this past week found my gear did they? http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=608259 The offer of proper whiskey as a finders fee still stands to the kind and honest person who can reunite me with it!
Hi Toby,
I had a look around for your stuff last night (this morning to be precise) - I couldn't see anything unfortunately.
FWIW the slight thaw yesterday and refreeze over night made for good conditions. It seems warmer today though.
In reply to wercat:
Cheers for info on Red Tarn Cove, was thinking of Gully 1 for tomorrow but a bit worried what the temperature's doing.
Cheers for info on Red Tarn Cove, was thinking of Gully 1 for tomorrow but a bit worried what the temperature's doing.
In reply to GPN:
Thanks so much for even looking! I guess the stuff was pretty much where anyone walking the ridge and enjoying the view would have been so I'm sure it would have been found quickly. Sort of wondering how to get a lost and found notice out beyond climbing circles (i.e. here), as it may well have been walkers who found it. But, whatever, it was grand sunset and we had a safe good day - I'm trying to be philosophical about it; it's only stuff even if it was "stuff" that had been on some adventures with me and hence I was rather fond of!
Thanks for the conditions update too. Hard frost here in Sheffield last night, but pleasant in the sun now. Tricky kind of conditions to know what might be best.
Exile - cheers. I saw those amazing pics on DGI from last weekend. The only thing is I can't come up tonight, so even with my now normal 4 am start, that extra driving would slow our start down... decisions decisions!
Thanks so much for even looking! I guess the stuff was pretty much where anyone walking the ridge and enjoying the view would have been so I'm sure it would have been found quickly. Sort of wondering how to get a lost and found notice out beyond climbing circles (i.e. here), as it may well have been walkers who found it. But, whatever, it was grand sunset and we had a safe good day - I'm trying to be philosophical about it; it's only stuff even if it was "stuff" that had been on some adventures with me and hence I was rather fond of!
Thanks for the conditions update too. Hard frost here in Sheffield last night, but pleasant in the sun now. Tricky kind of conditions to know what might be best.
Exile - cheers. I saw those amazing pics on DGI from last weekend. The only thing is I can't come up tonight, so even with my now normal 4 am start, that extra driving would slow our start down... decisions decisions!
In reply to TobyA:
It just doesn't get anywhere near as much sun. Cambridge gets only early morning sun where Bowfell is in it until early afternoon.
RE your gear - There's been a logged entry or 2 of Bowfell the last few days, have you contacted any of those directly?
It just doesn't get anywhere near as much sun. Cambridge gets only early morning sun where Bowfell is in it until early afternoon.
RE your gear - There's been a logged entry or 2 of Bowfell the last few days, have you contacted any of those directly?
In reply to TobyA:
Re Cambridge Crag, what JR said - one of the times I've climbed on Cambridge this winter, when our route was in great nick, Bowfell Buttress looked decidedly 'snow on ledges'.
Re Cambridge Crag, what JR said - one of the times I've climbed on Cambridge this winter, when our route was in great nick, Bowfell Buttress looked decidedly 'snow on ledges'.
Post edited at 17:55
In reply to stuart58:
Thawing at Brown cove crags this afternoon. Turf on the summit also not frozen. There's still plenty ice there, not sure of it's solidity. Temp was above freezing.
Thawing at Brown cove crags this afternoon. Turf on the summit also not frozen. There's still plenty ice there, not sure of it's solidity. Temp was above freezing.
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In reply to TobyA:
It's worth checking with the local police, there are some honest folk around - it's amazing how much unclaimed stuff they accumulate.
It's worth checking with the local police, there are some honest folk around - it's amazing how much unclaimed stuff they accumulate.
I'm considering doing Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday crag. Anyone been up it recently?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Just in conjunction with my above post, what are the roads like for getting to Patterdale. I'd normally go in from the Windermere end.
Thanks
Post edited at 11:42
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In reply to CHASETRAILBUILDA:
All the roads are fine. Low level snow turned to ice last night and is presently close to or just above freezing, but there is an inversion and the summit of Helvellyn is likely to be warmer than the valley.
DC
All the roads are fine. Low level snow turned to ice last night and is presently close to or just above freezing, but there is an inversion and the summit of Helvellyn is likely to be warmer than the valley.
DC
In reply to Dave Cumberland;
Thanks Dave.
Thanks Dave.
Report Sat/7th/14:00
Just returned from a brisk morning outing to Great End (approached from Wasdale).
Here's the suss (accurate at 10:30 when I left the crag):-
Skew Gill - full of rapidly thawing snow/ice; the exit definitely requires axe/crampons.
Skew Gill Direct - fully formed icefall - great fun today.
Window Gully - in fine condition really, evidence of lots of traffic. The icefall pitch looked to be in good condition but the Upper Icefall finish was soaking wet so I left it alone.
Central Gully Left - in fine condition all the way.
South East Gully - in fine condition all the way.
Custs Gully - soft snow with some icy steps.
Branch Gully - soft snow with some icy steps
DSM
Just returned from a brisk morning outing to Great End (approached from Wasdale).
Here's the suss (accurate at 10:30 when I left the crag):-
Skew Gill - full of rapidly thawing snow/ice; the exit definitely requires axe/crampons.
Skew Gill Direct - fully formed icefall - great fun today.
Window Gully - in fine condition really, evidence of lots of traffic. The icefall pitch looked to be in good condition but the Upper Icefall finish was soaking wet so I left it alone.
Central Gully Left - in fine condition all the way.
South East Gully - in fine condition all the way.
Custs Gully - soft snow with some icy steps.
Branch Gully - soft snow with some icy steps
DSM
1
Blea Water:
Blea Water Gill
1st pitch I think now has big gaps. We were 1st on route today and was ok, but a couple of sections collapsed for 2nd party. The rest of route is fine with many variations upto grade 4 or higher. The main upper section should last quite a while
Birketts Gully
A few big holes in the ice on the pitches below the gulley itself so wont last much longer. 1st Icefall in gulley fell off today causing a mini avalanche luckily I wasn't on it at the time and only fell a couple of meters down the gulley when it hit me.
Blea Water Gill
1st pitch I think now has big gaps. We were 1st on route today and was ok, but a couple of sections collapsed for 2nd party. The rest of route is fine with many variations upto grade 4 or higher. The main upper section should last quite a while
Birketts Gully
A few big holes in the ice on the pitches below the gulley itself so wont last much longer. 1st Icefall in gulley fell off today causing a mini avalanche luckily I wasn't on it at the time and only fell a couple of meters down the gulley when it hit me.
In reply to stuart58:
Was up at great end today only time for one quick solo climb window gully in good condition good ice the pitch opposite the window looked okay but was dripping have seen it a lot fatter and with blue ice descended custs which was okay with plenty of snow but thin in places
Temperature seemed to be rising rapidly left at 11 am
Was up at great end today only time for one quick solo climb window gully in good condition good ice the pitch opposite the window looked okay but was dripping have seen it a lot fatter and with blue ice descended custs which was okay with plenty of snow but thin in places
Temperature seemed to be rising rapidly left at 11 am
Post edited at 17:06
In reply to stuart58:
Blea Water Gill - Saturday.
Bottom Pitch - lots of running water and mostly unconsolidated snow ice with some good neve - harder than grade three moves due to conditions. Some pretty crap water ice and rock protection only. Middle section better, but avoided most steep sections due to poor ice. Top pitch (ramp) poor snow ice. Got hit by a half microwave size block which was dislodged from above. Lucky to have come away with only a bruised elbow and hip! Top section - patchy ice crisscrossing the gill. Excellent day - fine climb. Would love to do it again when in better condition. Awesome cloud inversion for part of the day too!
Blea Water Gill - Saturday.
Bottom Pitch - lots of running water and mostly unconsolidated snow ice with some good neve - harder than grade three moves due to conditions. Some pretty crap water ice and rock protection only. Middle section better, but avoided most steep sections due to poor ice. Top pitch (ramp) poor snow ice. Got hit by a half microwave size block which was dislodged from above. Lucky to have come away with only a bruised elbow and hip! Top section - patchy ice crisscrossing the gill. Excellent day - fine climb. Would love to do it again when in better condition. Awesome cloud inversion for part of the day too!
In reply to stuart58:
Plus 1 for Blea Water Gill today. First pitch a wee bit sketchy for a solo - plenty of water running on all pitches but enough ice to go at on P2 and P3. Not great for screws so take rock gear. That was 9 o'clockish this morning - not sure what the warm weather today will have done to it.
Aye,
Davie
Plus 1 for Blea Water Gill today. First pitch a wee bit sketchy for a solo - plenty of water running on all pitches but enough ice to go at on P2 and P3. Not great for screws so take rock gear. That was 9 o'clockish this morning - not sure what the warm weather today will have done to it.
Aye,
Davie
In reply to stuart58:
6 routes in on browncove today great day for soloing great neve in the gullies plus much quieter than usual today compared to other days this year. cloud inversions in every direction, much colder than forecast early on too with a good hard frost. Had to ab off the steep buttress left of parallel gullies due to ice coming straight off the rock soft snow and unfrozen turf making it very sketchy but this was by late afternoon and started thawing mildly but fantastic conditions in the gullies. Much better than anticipated with the warmer temps lately in fact the snow is in the best condition so far this year but ice and turf nowhere near as good as it has been. Buttresses on browncove are finished but red tarn face buttresses much better Nick.
6 routes in on browncove today great day for soloing great neve in the gullies plus much quieter than usual today compared to other days this year. cloud inversions in every direction, much colder than forecast early on too with a good hard frost. Had to ab off the steep buttress left of parallel gullies due to ice coming straight off the rock soft snow and unfrozen turf making it very sketchy but this was by late afternoon and started thawing mildly but fantastic conditions in the gullies. Much better than anticipated with the warmer temps lately in fact the snow is in the best condition so far this year but ice and turf nowhere near as good as it has been. Buttresses on browncove are finished but red tarn face buttresses much better Nick.
Post edited at 18:25
In reply to stuart58:
A few comments and a fairly detailed pic of the east face of Helvellyn today http://www.facebook.com/LakelandAscents
A few comments and a fairly detailed pic of the east face of Helvellyn today http://www.facebook.com/LakelandAscents
Post edited at 18:57
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
Disagree with your assessment of bb, there was ice on the rock, and turf was hard,
Disagree with your assessment of bb, there was ice on the rock, and turf was hard,
Went up V-corner on Helvellyn last night. Ice was fine lower down but snow a bit sugary near the top.
Amazing view above the clouds though!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=252559
Amazing view above the clouds though!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=252559
1
In reply to stuart58:
Heading up to the lakes tomorrow has anyone got any idea if The tarn and falcon crag gullys would be worth the walk up ?
Heading up to the lakes tomorrow has anyone got any idea if The tarn and falcon crag gullys would be worth the walk up ?
We went to have a look at some gullies in Kentmere today, in Rainsborrow Cove onto Ill Bell. Snow was very soft, even stuff that's spent most/all its time in the shade. Plenty of fun options at grade I though and despite a bit of wading was still good fun. Then a fantastic walk out over the rest of the horseshoe. Great day to be on the hills!
In reply to DSM:
That's a very respectable morning's mileage there. Nice one. I did South East Gully today and agree it was in decent condition although plenty of traffic had meant getting placements at the top of the tricky section needed some thought and aim! It wasn't like I had many runners in leading that pitch, but I think soloing that bit might have been a bit nervy - so nicely done!
Quite a big rock rolled down the gully while we were close to the top, fortunately going not too close to us, but the sort of size that would probably kill someone if it hit their head. It seemed to be released by wind or snow melting maybe? Worrying, and worth remembering that these things can happen!
Beautiful day over all.
That's a very respectable morning's mileage there. Nice one. I did South East Gully today and agree it was in decent condition although plenty of traffic had meant getting placements at the top of the tricky section needed some thought and aim! It wasn't like I had many runners in leading that pitch, but I think soloing that bit might have been a bit nervy - so nicely done!
Quite a big rock rolled down the gully while we were close to the top, fortunately going not too close to us, but the sort of size that would probably kill someone if it hit their head. It seemed to be released by wind or snow melting maybe? Worrying, and worth remembering that these things can happen!
Beautiful day over all.
In reply to stuart58:
Hard frost this morning, minus 3 and beautiful blue skies in Keswick at 0800, the thaw of yesterday should be nicely firmed up for a great day out!
Hard frost this morning, minus 3 and beautiful blue skies in Keswick at 0800, the thaw of yesterday should be nicely firmed up for a great day out!
In reply to stuart58:
Bet it's amazing out there today.
Picked up a sling someone had dropped near the top of Central Left Branch on G.E. yesterday. If it's yours gimme a shout and I'll pop it in the post.
Bet it's amazing out there today.
Picked up a sling someone had dropped near the top of Central Left Branch on G.E. yesterday. If it's yours gimme a shout and I'll pop it in the post.
In reply to stouffer:
Work demanded a quick hit today so been out and done Raven Grag Gully with the right hand finish on Red Screes, (III, 4?) The snow was quite soft but the ice was very nice to climb. Warming up when we got back to the car at about 9.00am though.
Work demanded a quick hit today so been out and done Raven Grag Gully with the right hand finish on Red Screes, (III, 4?) The snow was quite soft but the ice was very nice to climb. Warming up when we got back to the car at about 9.00am though.
In reply to nakedave:
You would, as you were on it!
There was no ice on the rock, the slabs left of the route were dripping water and snow was sloughing off them when we we stood underneath you guys. The crack on the first pitch would have been more easily climbed bare handed and without crampons, and that's enough of a litmus test. There's no turf (or very little) on Bowfell Buttress (V 6). Got any pics to show, to counter the sun-kissed rock pic I posted earlier? Happy to be persuaded otherwise, but I'm confident on our assessment!
You would, as you were on it!
There was no ice on the rock, the slabs left of the route were dripping water and snow was sloughing off them when we we stood underneath you guys. The crack on the first pitch would have been more easily climbed bare handed and without crampons, and that's enough of a litmus test. There's no turf (or very little) on Bowfell Buttress (V 6). Got any pics to show, to counter the sun-kissed rock pic I posted earlier? Happy to be persuaded otherwise, but I'm confident on our assessment!
In reply to Exile:
How much snow is on the right hand side of the red tarn face? Essentially, is it skiable?
How much snow is on the right hand side of the red tarn face? Essentially, is it skiable?
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
Sorry, couldn't see from where I was - we were on Red Screes not Red Tarn area.
Sorry, couldn't see from where I was - we were on Red Screes not Red Tarn area.
In reply to Exile:
Thanks, apologies, mis-read your post.
Any one else got a recent picture looking into red tarn from a distance?
Thanks, apologies, mis-read your post.
Any one else got a recent picture looking into red tarn from a distance?
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
the snow bowl looked skiable to the tarn yesterday if a little firm. https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203629666118985&id=1136236859&set=a... Looking down to the tarn from summit area.
the snow bowl looked skiable to the tarn yesterday if a little firm. https://m.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203629666118985&id=1136236859&set=a... Looking down to the tarn from summit area.
Post edited at 13:08
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
Avalanche at base foule craggs/Mungrisedale common (Blencathra). Alt 650m East aspect. Looks like cornice collapse late yesterday? Lots of layers evident in headwall, the base layer sugar snow.
https://twitter.com/fellrunningjen/status/564418139132551169
Avalanche at base foule craggs/Mungrisedale common (Blencathra). Alt 650m East aspect. Looks like cornice collapse late yesterday? Lots of layers evident in headwall, the base layer sugar snow.
https://twitter.com/fellrunningjen/status/564418139132551169
1
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
That was when I first saw this pic circulating unless there has been another one in the exact same place which I doubt.
That was when I first saw this pic circulating unless there has been another one in the exact same place which I doubt.
In reply to Wesley Orvis:
Update
Was up Brown cove today Central Gully in good nick. then did Gully 2 on Red tarn face which was also in good condition.
Inversion aswell so all good
Shame City only drew yesterday!!
Update
Was up Brown cove today Central Gully in good nick. then did Gully 2 on Red tarn face which was also in good condition.
Inversion aswell so all good
Shame City only drew yesterday!!
In reply to Gav Parker:
Did Red Tarn look as if it would last till tomorrow as I might get a chance to get out?
Did Red Tarn look as if it would last till tomorrow as I might get a chance to get out?
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
And I would say that being on it would be a good position to comment from sure it was lean,but there was ice, I know cos I used some as foot placements. there is turf, again I used some. Route would have been impossible without tools. And at the end of the day, I had an enjoyable day out, I left barely a scratch, sure it might have been an easier tick than other days, but I climb for pleasure not ticks
and I do have pics, I'll put them up. And re your link to pic with the #embarrassing, bullshit!
And I would say that being on it would be a good position to comment from sure it was lean,but there was ice, I know cos I used some as foot placements. there is turf, again I used some. Route would have been impossible without tools. And at the end of the day, I had an enjoyable day out, I left barely a scratch, sure it might have been an easier tick than other days, but I climb for pleasure not ticks
and I do have pics, I'll put them up. And re your link to pic with the #embarrassing, bullshit!
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2
In reply to wercat:
Yes still plenty in the gully lines and buttresses whiter than elsewhere..
I would get there as early as you can though..
Yes still plenty in the gully lines and buttresses whiter than elsewhere..
I would get there as early as you can though..
1
In reply to stuart58
Had a trip up too tarn crag today and thought we would have a great day in the gullys.......WRONG ! Conditions very poor extremely soft snow and very poor ice and turf conditions ...........
Had a trip up too tarn crag today and thought we would have a great day in the gullys.......WRONG ! Conditions very poor extremely soft snow and very poor ice and turf conditions ...........
In reply to nakedave:
I only climb for pleasure , which is why I prefer routes properly in condition. You ticked the route, assumedly because you wanted the major 3* line of the crag. We left that tick for a more pleasurable day, when it was in proper nick. It was what we went to do.
Anyway, back to the thread... any conditions to report from the weekend?
I only climb for pleasure , which is why I prefer routes properly in condition. You ticked the route, assumedly because you wanted the major 3* line of the crag. We left that tick for a more pleasurable day, when it was in proper nick. It was what we went to do.
Anyway, back to the thread... any conditions to report from the weekend?
Post edited at 20:32
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
A few photos from the weekend here: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog
The gullies on Red Screes were reasonable today, soft at the bottom, better higher up. Very warm in the sun so unless the temps take a marked tumble we'll be loosing a lot more snow very soon.
Last 2 mornings there's been a hard frost in Ambleside, so fingers crossed that continues and it all holds.
A few photos from the weekend here: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog
The gullies on Red Screes were reasonable today, soft at the bottom, better higher up. Very warm in the sun so unless the temps take a marked tumble we'll be loosing a lot more snow very soon.
Last 2 mornings there's been a hard frost in Ambleside, so fingers crossed that continues and it all holds.
1
In reply to zola:
Shame - you weren't given the best advice yesterday to be fair. Still a great day to be out...
Aye,
Davie
Shame - you weren't given the best advice yesterday to be fair. Still a great day to be out...
Aye,
Davie
In reply to Wesley Orvis:
I nearly did because I didn't think you were right but hey ho no real harm done and no offence meant.
Davie
I nearly did because I didn't think you were right but hey ho no real harm done and no offence meant.
Davie
In reply to DR:
Cheers. Yes I was just thinking as someone reported good conditions on dolly wagon on Saturday and we found good conditions on browncove and the teams coming up from red tarn were looking good that it would be similar I presumed wrong. But lower and probs gets more sun. Sorry Zola if you didn't have as good a day as you could of on my advice.
Cheers. Yes I was just thinking as someone reported good conditions on dolly wagon on Saturday and we found good conditions on browncove and the teams coming up from red tarn were looking good that it would be similar I presumed wrong. But lower and probs gets more sun. Sorry Zola if you didn't have as good a day as you could of on my advice.
Post edited at 22:24
In reply to stuart58:
Some great pictures today of two separate avalanches on Blencathra from the Lake District weatherline guys.
http://www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk/__data/assets/image/0004/533695/P2...
http://www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk/gallery
Some great pictures today of two separate avalanches on Blencathra from the Lake District weatherline guys.
http://www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk/__data/assets/image/0004/533695/P2...
http://www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk/gallery
Post edited at 15:56
In reply to stuart58:
Headed up to Brown Cove Crags today and found the conditions to be pretty good. Went for Central Gully first then descended swirrel edge and went for No1 Gully (this was well filled in), descended swirrel again and headed over to the ice at the start of V Corner which was excellent, headed left at the first belay and followed an obvious line which had three arkward steps before the final snow slopes. All in all an excellent day, temperature inversions, broken spectre's and good climbing.
Headed up to Brown Cove Crags today and found the conditions to be pretty good. Went for Central Gully first then descended swirrel edge and went for No1 Gully (this was well filled in), descended swirrel again and headed over to the ice at the start of V Corner which was excellent, headed left at the first belay and followed an obvious line which had three arkward steps before the final snow slopes. All in all an excellent day, temperature inversions, broken spectre's and good climbing.
In reply to stuart58:
During a new routing exploration today I came across a fine, previously uncharted line straight up the front of Helvellyn. The most amazing thing about it was the way in which the wind had scoured little dips all the way up the snow, to make it almost like a staircase. It had to be seen to be believed.
How do I go about registering it for the next Lakes Winter guide? I reckon it went at about Grade I.
PS Kirkstone Pass is open.
During a new routing exploration today I came across a fine, previously uncharted line straight up the front of Helvellyn. The most amazing thing about it was the way in which the wind had scoured little dips all the way up the snow, to make it almost like a staircase. It had to be seen to be believed.
How do I go about registering it for the next Lakes Winter guide? I reckon it went at about Grade I.
PS Kirkstone Pass is open.
1
In reply to Bingers:
Log it at http://www.frcc.co.uk/crags.asp?guide_id=6&crag_id=426 , but don't be surprised when you're told it was done years ago!
Log it at http://www.frcc.co.uk/crags.asp?guide_id=6&crag_id=426 , but don't be surprised when you're told it was done years ago!
Post edited at 12:21
In reply to Djhartley:
Was it you I was chatting to climbing up central gully?? Amazing views after I topped out too, brocken sprectres a plenty. if it was have fun in scotland, if not then ignore my gibberish lol
Was it you I was chatting to climbing up central gully?? Amazing views after I topped out too, brocken sprectres a plenty. if it was have fun in scotland, if not then ignore my gibberish lol
In reply to stuart58:
Anywhere looking okay for tomorrow, or best guesses? Been in work and not been out for week, keen to get back out there
Anywhere looking okay for tomorrow, or best guesses? Been in work and not been out for week, keen to get back out there
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
That's a bit misleading given that in inversion conditions the temperature can be well above freezing and the snow and ice can remain firm due to the dryness of the air, e.g. it was +6 on Clogwyn Du on Saturday but everything was well frozen all day due to the dryness of the air.
That's not to say whether it's any good or not in the lakes, I really dont know - go and have a look and tell us all!
That's a bit misleading given that in inversion conditions the temperature can be well above freezing and the snow and ice can remain firm due to the dryness of the air, e.g. it was +6 on Clogwyn Du on Saturday but everything was well frozen all day due to the dryness of the air.
That's not to say whether it's any good or not in the lakes, I really dont know - go and have a look and tell us all!
In reply to LakesWinter:
We'll be going up to Red Tarn tomorrow so will report back, but if anyone has been up there today a 'heads up' on the condition of the snow and ice would be appreciated, ta
We'll be going up to Red Tarn tomorrow so will report back, but if anyone has been up there today a 'heads up' on the condition of the snow and ice would be appreciated, ta
In reply to paulh.0776:
No 1 gully was climbable today but it's getting fragile and patchy in places.
No 1 gully was climbable today but it's getting fragile and patchy in places.
In reply to paulh.0776:
wasn't there today but yesterday the icefall below was reasonable but higher up ice features were well past their best
wasn't there today but yesterday the icefall below was reasonable but higher up ice features were well past their best
1
In reply to Sam_Marsland:
hi Sam, climbed central left hand on great end today. good ice, snow a bit soft in places, turf bomber. well worth doing though. awesome inversion too.
hope that helps
hi Sam, climbed central left hand on great end today. good ice, snow a bit soft in places, turf bomber. well worth doing though. awesome inversion too.
hope that helps
In reply to Sam_Marsland:
Had a stunning day on Great End soloing Cust's, and I was surprised at how good the conditions were (except S.E. gully which was reported to be thin and' climbed out') There was a sporting mixed pitch on Cust's which has always been well covered for me in the past, a guy reported that Central RH was fine to solo too as the usual awkward rock shelf had a bypassing ice pitch (obviously that is up to the individual, had I known sooner I would have done it)
Interesting to hear from Lakes Winter about the dryness of the snow - I had expected it to be wet today - inversion's are strange phenomena and we too had 'fog rainbows' and Brocken Spectre's. It is due to freeze up there tonight.
Had a stunning day on Great End soloing Cust's, and I was surprised at how good the conditions were (except S.E. gully which was reported to be thin and' climbed out') There was a sporting mixed pitch on Cust's which has always been well covered for me in the past, a guy reported that Central RH was fine to solo too as the usual awkward rock shelf had a bypassing ice pitch (obviously that is up to the individual, had I known sooner I would have done it)
Interesting to hear from Lakes Winter about the dryness of the snow - I had expected it to be wet today - inversion's are strange phenomena and we too had 'fog rainbows' and Brocken Spectre's. It is due to freeze up there tonight.
Post edited at 21:50
In reply to Bryan W:
Cheers guys!! And thanks for the update on Great End, packed the bag earlier with the intention of heading that way and checking it out. Will report back
Cheers guys!! And thanks for the update on Great End, packed the bag earlier with the intention of heading that way and checking it out. Will report back
In reply to stuart58:
Just got back in from climbing on Red Tarn Face, we went for V corner but not sure if we did it or not in the mist and fog! Started left of No:2 Gully and finished about 20m right of the cairn marking the start of the descent to Striding Edge/. Anyhow...the overnight freeze has obviously firmed things up a lot, with frozen ground on the walk in and the snow firm enough to walk on up to the start of our climb. Once on the face there were some very thick good ice pitches and the few unfrozen/uncovered areas on the start easily bypassed with thick ice and neve nearby. Higher up the conditions got even better, neve and frozen turf all the way to the summit. Its all looking good up there and so long as the temp doesn't get too high it'll be ok for a while yet. Met 2 guys who had climbed Nethermost gully and said it was in good nick.
Just got back in from climbing on Red Tarn Face, we went for V corner but not sure if we did it or not in the mist and fog! Started left of No:2 Gully and finished about 20m right of the cairn marking the start of the descent to Striding Edge/. Anyhow...the overnight freeze has obviously firmed things up a lot, with frozen ground on the walk in and the snow firm enough to walk on up to the start of our climb. Once on the face there were some very thick good ice pitches and the few unfrozen/uncovered areas on the start easily bypassed with thick ice and neve nearby. Higher up the conditions got even better, neve and frozen turf all the way to the summit. Its all looking good up there and so long as the temp doesn't get too high it'll be ok for a while yet. Met 2 guys who had climbed Nethermost gully and said it was in good nick.
1
In reply to coldfell:
Went up Cust's Gully on Great End today (Wednesday). Had trouble finding the gully in the murk and ended up ascending to the summit up the scrambling route which is to the right (western end). Located Cust's from the top and down climbed it, before ascending it back to the top! The snow conditions were still good, solid neve. There are a couple of awkward mixed bits climbing over chockstones. The summit was shrouded in cloud, so looks like the inversion has come to an end for the time being.
Richard
Went up Cust's Gully on Great End today (Wednesday). Had trouble finding the gully in the murk and ended up ascending to the summit up the scrambling route which is to the right (western end). Located Cust's from the top and down climbed it, before ascending it back to the top! The snow conditions were still good, solid neve. There are a couple of awkward mixed bits climbing over chockstones. The summit was shrouded in cloud, so looks like the inversion has come to an end for the time being.
Richard
1
In reply to stuart58:
Did central gully today on great end. As Bryan reported yesterday; some soft snow, although the overnight freeze meant quite a bit of neve too. Some good ice around up there and the turf is bomber. Very enjoyable, after we located it in the mist that is... Was a tough ask and took us a while!!
Did central gully today on great end. As Bryan reported yesterday; some soft snow, although the overnight freeze meant quite a bit of neve too. Some good ice around up there and the turf is bomber. Very enjoyable, after we located it in the mist that is... Was a tough ask and took us a while!!
In reply to richard s:
What a difference a day makes - Tuesday was stunning, I'm not usually so lucky!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10205904027896739&set=pcb.10205... all the routes were clear to see.
What a difference a day makes - Tuesday was stunning, I'm not usually so lucky!
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10205904027896739&set=pcb.10205... all the routes were clear to see.
In reply to paulh.0776:
Eventually solo'd up No.1 gully on Helly, like others took some finding, started up No.2 gully by mistake and had to traverse Viking buttress to get to start of intended route (hardest bit of day). No.1 gully was a breeze the initial corner is buried under lots of neve, just after the step right it feels a little less friendly and then turns into a very steep walk to the summit. Unfortunately missed Ben Fogul on the summit, better luck next time 😎
I think any visibility would have spoilt the conditions,
Eventually solo'd up No.1 gully on Helly, like others took some finding, started up No.2 gully by mistake and had to traverse Viking buttress to get to start of intended route (hardest bit of day). No.1 gully was a breeze the initial corner is buried under lots of neve, just after the step right it feels a little less friendly and then turns into a very steep walk to the summit. Unfortunately missed Ben Fogul on the summit, better luck next time 😎
I think any visibility would have spoilt the conditions,
In reply to nidge:
Helly!!!
None of that Norries rubbish here please - we're Cumbrian don't you know
Helly!!!
None of that Norries rubbish here please - we're Cumbrian don't you know
2
In reply to nidge:
is that who it was? saw the film crew and some figures through the mist, but couldn't tell who it was...agree about the visibility - much more atmospheric
is that who it was? saw the film crew and some figures through the mist, but couldn't tell who it was...agree about the visibility - much more atmospheric
1
Hi,
Has anyone been up great end or red tarn cove today? Any condition update on window gully would be appreciated.
Thanks
Has anyone been up great end or red tarn cove today? Any condition update on window gully would be appreciated.
Thanks
In reply to nidge:
Go on HELVELLYN then!!!!
Ooooops also gully 1 buttress not Viking buttress, apologies to all those offended ..........
Go on HELVELLYN then!!!!
Ooooops also gully 1 buttress not Viking buttress, apologies to all those offended ..........
Post edited at 22:57
In reply to stuart58:
Hey,
Going to be heading up to the Lakes for the weekend. Don't really know it at all for winter climbing, any advice on conditions at the moment? Was thinking of heading up Helvellyn way, either to Red Tarn or Brown Cove Crags...
Cheers in advance
Hey,
Going to be heading up to the Lakes for the weekend. Don't really know it at all for winter climbing, any advice on conditions at the moment? Was thinking of heading up Helvellyn way, either to Red Tarn or Brown Cove Crags...
Cheers in advance
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Plenty, but it was snowing and thawing yesterday and is thawing today.
> Any ice forming towards the eastern side of Great End?
Plenty, but it was snowing and thawing yesterday and is thawing today.
In reply to Removed User:
any idea what level today's rain is falling as snow? or is it too early to tell?
any idea what level today's rain is falling as snow? or is it too early to tell?
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Weatherline suggests the snow landed from 600m upwards
Weatherline suggests the snow landed from 600m upwards
Post edited at 16:02
1
In reply to LakesWinter:
Cheers. Wonder how heavy it was, looks extensive from the radar but the intensity shown isn't that reliable.
Cheers. Wonder how heavy it was, looks extensive from the radar but the intensity shown isn't that reliable.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Yeah I'm not sure, the report didn't make it sound too heavy but I'm not heading up this weekend and haven't been in the Lakes for 2 weeks so really can't be any more use than that sadly.
Yeah I'm not sure, the report didn't make it sound too heavy but I'm not heading up this weekend and haven't been in the Lakes for 2 weeks so really can't be any more use than that sadly.
In reply to LakesWinter:
Last weekend was excellent for water ice, less so (where we were) for anything else. Up until today I suspect much the same was still the case. But I'm now grounded with toothache so have ceased caring
Last weekend was excellent for water ice, less so (where we were) for anything else. Up until today I suspect much the same was still the case. But I'm now grounded with toothache so have ceased caring
In reply to LakesWinter:
Snow falling above 700m on bowfell. Not a huge amount falling at 5pm when I came off.
Snow falling above 700m on bowfell. Not a huge amount falling at 5pm when I came off.
In reply to stuart58:
It's been about 5 degrees in kendal all day with light rain most of the day too I imagine snow above 650m. Haven't seen though as the clag as been in allday.
It's been about 5 degrees in kendal all day with light rain most of the day too I imagine snow above 650m. Haven't seen though as the clag as been in allday.
In reply to Wesley Orvis:
Thanks. I'll take a look up tomorrow. Hopefully routes are still in on red tarn face.
M
Thanks. I'll take a look up tomorrow. Hopefully routes are still in on red tarn face.
M
In reply to stuart58:
Great / green gable area yesterday (Friday) around 700m ground getting soft, falling as snow / rain all very wet from 11am , rain below that.
Great / green gable area yesterday (Friday) around 700m ground getting soft, falling as snow / rain all very wet from 11am , rain below that.
In reply to Andrew Lodge:
Dear All,
It is rock-climbing weather. Nethermost turf running water - soft and soggy Thursday, been thawing ever since.
DC
> Any reports from today?
Dear All,
It is rock-climbing weather. Nethermost turf running water - soft and soggy Thursday, been thawing ever since.
DC
In reply to Andrew Lodge:
Climbed window gully lower ice fall, could see the ice on the way up from Grains ghyll, Window Gully was in good condition if you stayed in the gully all the way , the upper ice fall ( looking from the top ) was thin and looked rotten at the bottom, Plenty of ice frozen turf and neve.
Mark
Climbed window gully lower ice fall, could see the ice on the way up from Grains ghyll, Window Gully was in good condition if you stayed in the gully all the way , the upper ice fall ( looking from the top ) was thin and looked rotten at the bottom, Plenty of ice frozen turf and neve.
Mark
2
In reply to Si Withington:
Had a look at Gully 1 today but decided it wasn't worth it; the snow was horribly soft and I didn't much like the look of the ice on the crux.
Had a look at Gully 1 today but decided it wasn't worth it; the snow was horribly soft and I didn't much like the look of the ice on the crux.
In reply to stuart58:
A few photos of Great End, Window Gully and Custs today. Stripping quickly, but still good ice high up. https://www.facebook.com/LakelandAscents
A few photos of Great End, Window Gully and Custs today. Stripping quickly, but still good ice high up. https://www.facebook.com/LakelandAscents
In reply to stuart58:
Was up above Red Tarn Helvellyn today. Snow soft and turf unfrozen. Locally a few hard patches of neve and some remaining icefalls (which would need a re-freeze). It all looked very wintery and beautiful but was in poor condition for climbing.
Was up above Red Tarn Helvellyn today. Snow soft and turf unfrozen. Locally a few hard patches of neve and some remaining icefalls (which would need a re-freeze). It all looked very wintery and beautiful but was in poor condition for climbing.
In reply to Lostsky:
You must have found a different helvellyn to the one I went to then. I found good ice, frozen turf and spring like sugary snow.
You must have found a different helvellyn to the one I went to then. I found good ice, frozen turf and spring like sugary snow.
In reply to 3leggeddog:
Climbed Window Gully on Great End yesterday, Central Gully was just full of sugary snoft snow, so backed off, went to play on some small ice pitches further round and found Window Gully in decent nick so climbed that instead and had a good result for the day.
Tnx to Will and Simon for their company
A few images and a fuller account at
http://paulhorsmanphotographer.blogspot.co.uk
Climbed Window Gully on Great End yesterday, Central Gully was just full of sugary snoft snow, so backed off, went to play on some small ice pitches further round and found Window Gully in decent nick so climbed that instead and had a good result for the day.
Tnx to Will and Simon for their company
A few images and a fuller account at
http://paulhorsmanphotographer.blogspot.co.uk
Post edited at 10:11
In reply to Si Withington:
Hi Si. Custs looks really good. Was the snow quite firm? Just thinking where to go tomorrow. Thanks
Hi Si. Custs looks really good. Was the snow quite firm? Just thinking where to go tomorrow. Thanks
In reply to redsonja:
Up high, it was firm where it had been compressed by the many feet that have been up there this season! Lots of steps. There is a small steep mixed step which should cause no problem and there is a tunnel under the chockstone. Lower down (below the chockstone) the snow was deep, soft and unhelpful. Below the gully, on the slopes back down the main path, it was even softer, with dangerous post-holes into the stream below!
Up high, it was firm where it had been compressed by the many feet that have been up there this season! Lots of steps. There is a small steep mixed step which should cause no problem and there is a tunnel under the chockstone. Lower down (below the chockstone) the snow was deep, soft and unhelpful. Below the gully, on the slopes back down the main path, it was even softer, with dangerous post-holes into the stream below!
In reply to redsonja:
In Central Gully yesterday,snow at the bottom was soft and deep with avalanche debris evident. Left hand exit ice started ok but thin and rotten at top of pitch ,will need a few days of good freeze thaw to come back into good nick and the weather forcast is not looking hopeful. No match for crag id:1329
In Central Gully yesterday,snow at the bottom was soft and deep with avalanche debris evident. Left hand exit ice started ok but thin and rotten at top of pitch ,will need a few days of good freeze thaw to come back into good nick and the weather forcast is not looking hopeful. No match for crag id:1329
In reply to stuart58:
Managed Window gully on Gt End today.
The ice is hanging on in there but only just.
The bottom pitches were disintegrating in the thaw but okay, getting better for the top 2 pitches on good ice (but thawing slowly and sounding hollow).
If the rain/milder weather arrives then doubt it will be in much longer unfortunately Window Gully (II/III)No match for crag id:1329
Managed Window gully on Gt End today.
The ice is hanging on in there but only just.
The bottom pitches were disintegrating in the thaw but okay, getting better for the top 2 pitches on good ice (but thawing slowly and sounding hollow).
If the rain/milder weather arrives then doubt it will be in much longer unfortunately Window Gully (II/III)No match for crag id:1329
Post edited at 19:18
In reply to Jim Haydock:
Did central left hand, thawing, hollow in places. Right hand now very hollow and thin...
Possibly better left now until colder weather...
Did central left hand, thawing, hollow in places. Right hand now very hollow and thin...
Possibly better left now until colder weather...
In reply to Gael Force:
Also did Central Left Hand, the thin nature of the top bit made it more interesting than normal! Generally good conditions overall though.
Also did Central Left Hand, the thin nature of the top bit made it more interesting than normal! Generally good conditions overall though.
In reply to LakesWinter:
You have got to be joking, ha ha, you seem to have a strange idea of good conditions. lets face up to it and just say its crap conditions and either more snow or/and a cold spell is needed.
> Also did Central Left Hand, the thin nature of the top bit made it more interesting than normal! Generally good conditions overall though.
Generally good conditions overall though. !!!You have got to be joking, ha ha, you seem to have a strange idea of good conditions. lets face up to it and just say its crap conditions and either more snow or/and a cold spell is needed.
In reply to callwild:
Did you do it? What was wrong with the conditions? Turf, where visible, was frozen, some good neve in the left branch and good enough ice for a couple of screws, what more do you want? Climbed the right arete to the amphitheatre though so maybe the lower gully was in crap nick?
Did you do it? What was wrong with the conditions? Turf, where visible, was frozen, some good neve in the left branch and good enough ice for a couple of screws, what more do you want? Climbed the right arete to the amphitheatre though so maybe the lower gully was in crap nick?
In reply to stuart58:
Anybody been up Helvellyn recently (this week)? Weatherline sounds promising that a fair amount of the neve on N and E aspects has survived...
NMM
Anybody been up Helvellyn recently (this week)? Weatherline sounds promising that a fair amount of the neve on N and E aspects has survived...
NMM
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Can still see patches of snow on Fairfield from Ambleside, coupled with the webcam from Raise showing the ski runs still complete I'm hopefull that more has survived than expected.
Looks like it will snow more over the next few days but also looking pretty windy and wild.
http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Raise/6day/top
Can still see patches of snow on Fairfield from Ambleside, coupled with the webcam from Raise showing the ski runs still complete I'm hopefull that more has survived than expected.
Looks like it will snow more over the next few days but also looking pretty windy and wild.
http://www.snow-forecast.com/resorts/Raise/6day/top
In reply to stuart58:
Amazing what a bit of fresh snow and a drop in temps can do in one day. Red tarn face back in great conditions today. Did rib and wall and gully no.2 and found them to be in excellent condition. Quite shocked really as didn't expect anything until reading the fell top weatherline report last night. Ice was great as was the older snow and turf Frozen where exposed. Great day in all with blue skies and the higher fells are back in their full winter coat. Snow line had risen through the day with the sunlight.
Amazing what a bit of fresh snow and a drop in temps can do in one day. Red tarn face back in great conditions today. Did rib and wall and gully no.2 and found them to be in excellent condition. Quite shocked really as didn't expect anything until reading the fell top weatherline report last night. Ice was great as was the older snow and turf Frozen where exposed. Great day in all with blue skies and the higher fells are back in their full winter coat. Snow line had risen through the day with the sunlight.
Post edited at 18:43
In reply to Wesley Orvis:
What are the chances of them lasting till next weekend? Knowing my luck it'll be great till Thursday and disappear when I can get up there!!
What are the chances of them lasting till next weekend? Knowing my luck it'll be great till Thursday and disappear when I can get up there!!
In reply to nrhardy:
forecast looking good lots more snow due I am confident I will be climbing next weekend after looking at the models. Maybe a little wild though. Even though the weather is going to be westerly based the air coming out of the states and Canada is so cold even after been moderated by the Atlantic it is still going to be much colder Than usual from that direction. Snowmagedon high up imo. It's looking good into the first week of March well that's fairly cold wild with lots of precipitation.
forecast looking good lots more snow due I am confident I will be climbing next weekend after looking at the models. Maybe a little wild though. Even though the weather is going to be westerly based the air coming out of the states and Canada is so cold even after been moderated by the Atlantic it is still going to be much colder Than usual from that direction. Snowmagedon high up imo. It's looking good into the first week of March well that's fairly cold wild with lots of precipitation.
Post edited at 22:59
Know the weather ain't been the best but anyone manage to climb anywhere over recent days?
Ta
Ta
In reply to stuart58:
Epic weather at the moment pal and loads of unstable slab in sheltered (and not so sheltered) locations. Not climbing weather - surviving weather.
Epic weather at the moment pal and loads of unstable slab in sheltered (and not so sheltered) locations. Not climbing weather - surviving weather.
In reply to stuart58:
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10203734618222722&set=o.2171398083...
Summit of Red Screes this evening
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10203734618222722&set=o.2171398083...
Summit of Red Screes this evening
In reply to mook456:
Below 800m the stuff what fell yesterday as wet snow was starting to freeze up in places much quicker than expected but shit loads of slab about. And a lot with a frozen crust with deep powder underneath. A lot of ice about too would imagine even gullies at red screes height would be a death trap never mind higher up. So much snow fell yesterday as red screes was bare on Saturday.
Below 800m the stuff what fell yesterday as wet snow was starting to freeze up in places much quicker than expected but shit loads of slab about. And a lot with a frozen crust with deep powder underneath. A lot of ice about too would imagine even gullies at red screes height would be a death trap never mind higher up. So much snow fell yesterday as red screes was bare on Saturday.
Post edited at 22:33
In reply to stuart58:
Anybody been around Deepdale recently? I'm wondering how frozen (or not) the turf is, as keen to get on Black Buttress.
Was out on Brown cove/Red Tarn on Friday. There was only 1 gully on complete neve on Brown Cove. More on Red Tarn. Turf was good on both.
NMM
Anybody been around Deepdale recently? I'm wondering how frozen (or not) the turf is, as keen to get on Black Buttress.
Was out on Brown cove/Red Tarn on Friday. There was only 1 gully on complete neve on Brown Cove. More on Red Tarn. Turf was good on both.
NMM
In reply to stuart58:
I've just got back from a walk around Blea Water to check out the condition of Blea Water Gill and Birketts Gully, the snow was soft and sugary all the way in with evidence of some small slides down the gullies from the snow and ice that is melting and sliding off. There is ice higher up but has running water under it so is not attached to the mountain!! There is still quite a good cover up there but its soft and not bonded at all, I was going to go climb up the left side of Blea Water Gill but conditions were pretty crap (wet snow on wet grass) so didn't take the chance.
A cold spell and it'll be fantastic.....but nothing doing at the mo:
Will put some pics up later....
I've just got back from a walk around Blea Water to check out the condition of Blea Water Gill and Birketts Gully, the snow was soft and sugary all the way in with evidence of some small slides down the gullies from the snow and ice that is melting and sliding off. There is ice higher up but has running water under it so is not attached to the mountain!! There is still quite a good cover up there but its soft and not bonded at all, I was going to go climb up the left side of Blea Water Gill but conditions were pretty crap (wet snow on wet grass) so didn't take the chance.
A cold spell and it'll be fantastic.....but nothing doing at the mo:
Will put some pics up later....
Post edited at 19:06
1
In reply to stuart58:
Would I be right in assuming the snow has been stripped from Bowfell Buttress overnight?
NMM
Would I be right in assuming the snow has been stripped from Bowfell Buttress overnight?
NMM
In reply to stuart58:
Given a bit of a lower temp forecast for the next couple of days (freezing level generally 700m-ish max) and assuming some snow survived the rain, what do people reckon of red tarn cove for saturday? Worth the drive?
Given a bit of a lower temp forecast for the next couple of days (freezing level generally 700m-ish max) and assuming some snow survived the rain, what do people reckon of red tarn cove for saturday? Worth the drive?
In reply to JHolland:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/raise_up_dated_pics/16445898347/
Enough snow seems to have survived
The bigger question might be the weather Friday night and Saturday - could be warm and wet so fairly unpleasant.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/raise_up_dated_pics/16445898347/
Enough snow seems to have survived
The bigger question might be the weather Friday night and Saturday - could be warm and wet so fairly unpleasant.
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Lots of running water in Brown cove today. Didn't go to Red tarn so not sure what that's like.
A few shots of there and Helvellyn here: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog
A good freeze could make it all go nice again.
Lots of running water in Brown cove today. Didn't go to Red tarn so not sure what that's like.
A few shots of there and Helvellyn here: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/blog
A good freeze could make it all go nice again.
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Was going to text you that it was pissing down and 7degrees in Kendal this morning but didn't want to be defeatist!
Was going to text you that it was pissing down and 7degrees in Kendal this morning but didn't want to be defeatist!
In reply to JHolland:
Brown cove looked stripped right back today, looks like red tarn cove survived better. We did a run down raise "piste" which was complete if a bit icy. We then skied a gully line down Keppel Cove towards the dam which again was complete.
I would say red tarn cove would be the best bet for winter sport for the coming days until we get more snow.
Brown cove looked stripped right back today, looks like red tarn cove survived better. We did a run down raise "piste" which was complete if a bit icy. We then skied a gully line down Keppel Cove towards the dam which again was complete.
I would say red tarn cove would be the best bet for winter sport for the coming days until we get more snow.
In reply to Paul Troon:
Dear All,
I can see High Street Rampsgill Head, Pinnacle Ridge St Sunday, Helvellyn and Blencathra/Saddleback (Sharp Edge) from my house. There has been serious stripping leaving the rocky ridges bare, but there is a lot of old snow in the gully lines etc. However, it is not cold enough to generate proper Winter conditions, specifically ice and hard neve.
The freezing level has been up and down dramatically past few days but will average 1000m over the weekend which is unfortunate for February.
Quite simply - it is not cold enough.
Past few dry days the weather has been more suited to rock climbing. Even High Crag Buttermere looked pretty good (i.e. dry and NOT covered in green soap) about a week ago, but since then there has been an excess of rain and flooded roads.
DC
Dear All,
I can see High Street Rampsgill Head, Pinnacle Ridge St Sunday, Helvellyn and Blencathra/Saddleback (Sharp Edge) from my house. There has been serious stripping leaving the rocky ridges bare, but there is a lot of old snow in the gully lines etc. However, it is not cold enough to generate proper Winter conditions, specifically ice and hard neve.
The freezing level has been up and down dramatically past few days but will average 1000m over the weekend which is unfortunate for February.
Quite simply - it is not cold enough.
Past few dry days the weather has been more suited to rock climbing. Even High Crag Buttermere looked pretty good (i.e. dry and NOT covered in green soap) about a week ago, but since then there has been an excess of rain and flooded roads.
DC
1
In reply to Dave Cumberland:
That's a mighty impressive view you have there Dave.
As you say, some of the gully lines contain large amounts of snow (what we encountered today was unstable). It's forecast to freeze again tonight and possibly the following couple of nights, this could mean the slush of today becomes tomorrow's neve, but then again maybe not!
That's a mighty impressive view you have there Dave.
As you say, some of the gully lines contain large amounts of snow (what we encountered today was unstable). It's forecast to freeze again tonight and possibly the following couple of nights, this could mean the slush of today becomes tomorrow's neve, but then again maybe not!
1
In reply to stuart58:
Got a mate camping with students tonight at Sprinkling Tarn, I'll get the low down on Great End tomorrow by mid afternoon.
I'm thinking a wee bit of a freeze over the next couple of nights could bring some gully lines in. Semi plan to get over (from Harrogate) on Sunday, early.... Will keep scanning the obvious sources and will update when I get some feedback tomorrow
Got a mate camping with students tonight at Sprinkling Tarn, I'll get the low down on Great End tomorrow by mid afternoon.
I'm thinking a wee bit of a freeze over the next couple of nights could bring some gully lines in. Semi plan to get over (from Harrogate) on Sunday, early.... Will keep scanning the obvious sources and will update when I get some feedback tomorrow
In reply to Zoomer:
Pick something at II/III that's mainly ice and it'll be fine. You know the route
Pick something at II/III that's mainly ice and it'll be fine. You know the route
1
In reply to Exile:
Cheers dude. I got that feeling when it was 9.5 C in Sheffield and raining
(8C rain in Sheffield is my usual marker point for Lakes conditions!)
NMM
Cheers dude. I got that feeling when it was 9.5 C in Sheffield and raining
(8C rain in Sheffield is my usual marker point for Lakes conditions!)
NMM
In reply to Dave Cumberland:
So did they climb on bullet hard neve back in the old step cutting days then?
NMM
P.S. Cheers for the view update, pretty much as I'd expected.
So did they climb on bullet hard neve back in the old step cutting days then?
NMM
P.S. Cheers for the view update, pretty much as I'd expected.
1
In reply to Zoomer:
Sadly the forecast for tonight isn't for a freeze, but for heavy rain up to summit level (possibly wet snow on the highest tops).
Sadly the forecast for tonight isn't for a freeze, but for heavy rain up to summit level (possibly wet snow on the highest tops).
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
......but from Sunday temperatures look good for several days. This could firm things up and lead to good conditions?
Davey
......but from Sunday temperatures look good for several days. This could firm things up and lead to good conditions?
Davey
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
It looks finely balanced...
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcty5q7dp#?fcTime=14249...
A good freeze next week will certainly do things a lot of good anyway!
Fingers crossed...
NMM
It looks finely balanced...
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/forecast/gcty5q7dp#?fcTime=14249...
A good freeze next week will certainly do things a lot of good anyway!
Fingers crossed...
NMM
1
In reply to RedFive:
Penrith town prob has some of the best views of the fells.
> Do you live on the summit of Place Fell?
There are loads of climbers around here and the views are extensive - Pennines, Howgills, High street, St Sunday, Helvellyn, Newlands fells, Blencathra, Carrock etc so it is good for checking conditions.Penrith town prob has some of the best views of the fells.
2
In reply to Zoomer:
Ok a little bit of feedback from Gt End, my buddy said that the majority of snow is stripped on the tops but said there was still snow in the gullies with what he thought was a bit of ice high up. However he did say the snow he was on was mega soft.....so a mixed bag. Fingers crossed for some clear nights.
Ok a little bit of feedback from Gt End, my buddy said that the majority of snow is stripped on the tops but said there was still snow in the gullies with what he thought was a bit of ice high up. However he did say the snow he was on was mega soft.....so a mixed bag. Fingers crossed for some clear nights.
Just got back from red tarn cove. Plenty of snow up there still but very little ice. Climbed gully 1, good hard snow and a bit of ice. The thaw seems to have undercut it though and it was frighteningly detached so can't recommend that one! Some friends climbed gully 2 on good snow the whole way.
Seemed like good conditions for easy gully climbing but not anything else.
Seemed like good conditions for easy gully climbing but not anything else.
In reply to stuart58:
Personally, I think a better place for checking conditions is actually out on the fell. But hey, perhaps I'm just being pedantic.
Personally, I think a better place for checking conditions is actually out on the fell. But hey, perhaps I'm just being pedantic.
2
In reply to stuart58:
I'm heading to the lakes on tuesday looking for easy winter scrambles or ridges, is there likely to be anything left? Backup plan is to do the big face of stickle pike from langdale in big boots and gloves.
I'm heading to the lakes on tuesday looking for easy winter scrambles or ridges, is there likely to be anything left? Backup plan is to do the big face of stickle pike from langdale in big boots and gloves.
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
did you get my message about the ice axe that you reported you found on Helvellyn?
did you get my message about the ice axe that you reported you found on Helvellyn?
In reply to stuart58:
Has anybody seen how much neve is left on Great End especially on the left hand side (as you look at it)? Still plenty on Red Tarn...
NMM
Has anybody seen how much neve is left on Great End especially on the left hand side (as you look at it)? Still plenty on Red Tarn...
NMM
In reply to A Mountain Journey:
OK thanks which way is the wind going, is there likely to be slopes with avalanche risk? Looking for a scramble or climb that isnt a gully at grade I/II ish, what would the stuff on pike o stickle go at in winter condition?
OK thanks which way is the wind going, is there likely to be slopes with avalanche risk? Looking for a scramble or climb that isnt a gully at grade I/II ish, what would the stuff on pike o stickle go at in winter condition?
Post edited at 11:53
In reply to Red Rover:
Think the wind is generally from the west and fairly strong at higher levels.
Not sure of avalanche risk as i've not been out for a few days. There's a nice spur that comes down off Esk Pike (between Angle tarn & Esk Hause) that's about grade 1
Think the wind is generally from the west and fairly strong at higher levels.
Not sure of avalanche risk as i've not been out for a few days. There's a nice spur that comes down off Esk Pike (between Angle tarn & Esk Hause) that's about grade 1
1
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
I ran under Great End on Sunday afternoon and the gully lines eg SE gully and Central Gully were incomplete. It was snowing above 500m yesterday afternoon and there have been some quite heavy snow showers today down to quite low levels. With another freeze thaw cycle it could come good again.
I ran under Great End on Sunday afternoon and the gully lines eg SE gully and Central Gully were incomplete. It was snowing above 500m yesterday afternoon and there have been some quite heavy snow showers today down to quite low levels. With another freeze thaw cycle it could come good again.
In reply to shantaram:
Thanks. Did you see if there was much snow on the left hand side of the crag?
Cheers
Adrian
Thanks. Did you see if there was much snow on the left hand side of the crag?
Cheers
Adrian
In reply to A Mountain Journey:
He's done it met him on bowfell last season after had just finished the NW spur of Esk Pike
He's done it met him on bowfell last season after had just finished the NW spur of Esk Pike
In reply to Red Rover:
If you do the main face of pile of stickle don't bother if it's wet we had an epic on wet slimey Rock. I left three lots of abseil anchors a few months back and may still be there as not many go up that way in winter. If you find them keep them but be warned very serious in the upper half in the wet.
If you do the main face of pile of stickle don't bother if it's wet we had an epic on wet slimey Rock. I left three lots of abseil anchors a few months back and may still be there as not many go up that way in winter. If you find them keep them but be warned very serious in the upper half in the wet.
1
In reply to Wesley Orvis:
OK thanks a lot, I did the NW spur of esk pike last winter it was good thanks for the advice mountain journey. I'll see how things look and maybe do some scramples round the langdale pikes if its not too windy.
OK thanks a lot, I did the NW spur of esk pike last winter it was good thanks for the advice mountain journey. I'll see how things look and maybe do some scramples round the langdale pikes if its not too windy.
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
There was enough snow on the left side of Great End (probably not rock solid neve), but things will have changed considerably since yesterday afternoon. There has been a fair bit of snow and wind and it's become a bit colder.
There was enough snow on the left side of Great End (probably not rock solid neve), but things will have changed considerably since yesterday afternoon. There has been a fair bit of snow and wind and it's become a bit colder.
In reply to shantaram:
Thanks. I was hoping that Left Hand Groove might have come in, but I'm starting to think that mixed routes on Gable may be a better bet...
NMM
Thanks. I was hoping that Left Hand Groove might have come in, but I'm starting to think that mixed routes on Gable may be a better bet...
NMM
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
I'm thinking the same, especially with the choice of west and north facing aspects. Heading out tomorrow to find out.
I'm thinking the same, especially with the choice of west and north facing aspects. Heading out tomorrow to find out.
Update: - Did Pinnacle ridge (Gable) today in 'marginal' conditions. Glad we didn't go for a gully as there was hardly any neve or ice.
The crags were white when we set off climbing but, as the day progressed they started stripping very quickly in the warmish conditions. Some turf was nicely frozen but, if the very mild weather arrives as forecast in the next few days it will do well to hold onto the conditions
JH.
The crags were white when we set off climbing but, as the day progressed they started stripping very quickly in the warmish conditions. Some turf was nicely frozen but, if the very mild weather arrives as forecast in the next few days it will do well to hold onto the conditions
JH.
In reply to stuart58:
Did Central Gully on Gable which actually had enough neve in it, although it was strangely rippy and brittle. Not much ice and just a dribble on The Smart exit. Suspect this was the last good day of winter climbing in the Lakes this season...
NMM
Did Central Gully on Gable which actually had enough neve in it, although it was strangely rippy and brittle. Not much ice and just a dribble on The Smart exit. Suspect this was the last good day of winter climbing in the Lakes this season...
NMM
1
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Also did Pinnacle Ridge on Gable just ahead of another pair. Cracking route but felt like the end of winter.
Also did Pinnacle Ridge on Gable just ahead of another pair. Cracking route but felt like the end of winter.
In reply to stuart58:
I see that the line from Helvellyn to Red Tarn has been skied this week. If anyone is up at the weekend I'd be interested in the condition of the slope after todays rain(?). I quite fancy a walk up and ski down. My concern is that it will be ice by the time I get there at some point next week.
ta.
I see that the line from Helvellyn to Red Tarn has been skied this week. If anyone is up at the weekend I'd be interested in the condition of the slope after todays rain(?). I quite fancy a walk up and ski down. My concern is that it will be ice by the time I get there at some point next week.
ta.
In reply to david000:
this it what red tarn face looks like now http://www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk/index
Raise still loos ok http://www.ldscsnowski.co.uk/
this it what red tarn face looks like now http://www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk/index
Raise still loos ok http://www.ldscsnowski.co.uk/
In reply to Mountain Llama:
Cheers. I'll keep an eye on the weather line site, I didn't spot the photo when I looked earlier in the evening.
Cheers. I'll keep an eye on the weather line site, I didn't spot the photo when I looked earlier in the evening.
In reply to Mountain Llama:
Has anybody done Gully 1 or Gully 2 from Red Tarn in the last couple of days?
Gully 1 has something white and continuous threading through the crux .... but .....
are we talking nicely packed and firm or sugary mush ?
Cheers for any info.
sbc.
Has anybody done Gully 1 or Gully 2 from Red Tarn in the last couple of days?
Gully 1 has something white and continuous threading through the crux .... but .....
are we talking nicely packed and firm or sugary mush ?
Cheers for any info.
sbc.
In reply to david000:
skied red tarn face on night of 8/3. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=254576
snow has getting a bit hard but more than good enough to hold an edge. The snow just off swirral edge was slightly softer. Was gonna try gully number 1 but snow there felt really hard
skied red tarn face on night of 8/3. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=254576
snow has getting a bit hard but more than good enough to hold an edge. The snow just off swirral edge was slightly softer. Was gonna try gully number 1 but snow there felt really hard
5
1
Has there still been snow in the gullys up in the lakes. And did some fall last night.
Thanks
Thanks
Has any one been to great end this week? Thinking about going to central gulley if there is anything left?
Thanks
Thanks
In reply to Ksop:
We did Central Gully yesterday, it's not really in condition - the snow's good but there's no ice so there are 4 pitches on rock/verglas. Might come good with a few days of sub-zero, but doesn't look like we'll get it.
We did Central Gully yesterday, it's not really in condition - the snow's good but there's no ice so there are 4 pitches on rock/verglas. Might come good with a few days of sub-zero, but doesn't look like we'll get it.
3
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
The snow has a bit of give in it ? Hoping to get up to ski the headwall this week. I bailed on Saturday thinking it would be too icy.
The snow has a bit of give in it ? Hoping to get up to ski the headwall this week. I bailed on Saturday thinking it would be too icy.
In reply to david000:
I don't ski so can't say whether it's skiable. But when we did Nethermost Gully yesterday, the snow had enough give to be able to kick toe holds. No idea if that's useful information or not!
I don't ski so can't say whether it's skiable. But when we did Nethermost Gully yesterday, the snow had enough give to be able to kick toe holds. No idea if that's useful information or not!
In reply to stuart58:
So I did get up and skied the headwall today. Mixed snow conditions, nice where it was back to the 'old' snow which had softened. The new snow which had accumulated in places was best avoided, claggy and unstable.
Towards the half way point it was still frozen or had refrozen as the shadow moved across the slope. A remarkable day out.
I saw a couple of guys climbing the gully to the left, looking up.
So I did get up and skied the headwall today. Mixed snow conditions, nice where it was back to the 'old' snow which had softened. The new snow which had accumulated in places was best avoided, claggy and unstable.
Towards the half way point it was still frozen or had refrozen as the shadow moved across the slope. A remarkable day out.
I saw a couple of guys climbing the gully to the left, looking up.
2
In reply to stuart58:
From Thursday:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8691/16866681415_6ebc975a4d_c.jpg
From Thursday:
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8691/16866681415_6ebc975a4d_c.jpg
3
In reply to stuart58:
Went for a walk via Great end today. All of the gullies that I could see were incomplete, (I didn't look in Custs Gully). I took an ice axe along just in case but should have packed the Sun tan lotion and budgie smugglers instead. I will post a photo in a bit. (of Great End not me in the budgie smugglers).
Went for a walk via Great end today. All of the gullies that I could see were incomplete, (I didn't look in Custs Gully). I took an ice axe along just in case but should have packed the Sun tan lotion and budgie smugglers instead. I will post a photo in a bit. (of Great End not me in the budgie smugglers).
2
In reply to machine:
from David pics it looks like the Helvellyn range is lasting better than the rest and could hang on for a little while yet so long as the day time temps don't get too high and it gets a good freeze on a night.
took a stroll over Scafell Pike and Great End yesterday (Sat), and can report the there's nothing doing over there, what snow there is in the gullies is solid but non of the gullies is anything like complete.
A few images from yesterday at
http://paulhorsmanphotographer.blogspot.co.uk
from David pics it looks like the Helvellyn range is lasting better than the rest and could hang on for a little while yet so long as the day time temps don't get too high and it gets a good freeze on a night.
took a stroll over Scafell Pike and Great End yesterday (Sat), and can report the there's nothing doing over there, what snow there is in the gullies is solid but non of the gullies is anything like complete.
A few images from yesterday at
http://paulhorsmanphotographer.blogspot.co.uk
Post edited at 13:14
In reply to david000:
Cool, this is me and a couple of mates in the photo! Last bit of winter stuff for me this year, man flu set in on the descent and I'm still suffering now. Awesome day though.
Cool, this is me and a couple of mates in the photo! Last bit of winter stuff for me this year, man flu set in on the descent and I'm still suffering now. Awesome day though.
1
In reply to chrisn:
I wondered if it would be anyone on here. Was the gully complete ? I see some photo's of a guy dropping in to ski it a couple of weeks ago.
I wondered if it would be anyone on here. Was the gully complete ? I see some photo's of a guy dropping in to ski it a couple of weeks ago.
In reply to stuart58:
Went for a walk up to Red Tarn yesterday taking axe and an old pair of crampons but not really expecting anything. Astonishingly beautiful day and found No 2 glacier still extends pretty well from the Tarn to the summit, complete and with good cover of superb neve. Descended the snow bowl and managed standing glissades down snow fields almost to the tarn. Unexpected treat.
Met a chap from Brazil, jokingly said "have you come to see our little mountains" and he expressed amazement at the beauty of what he was seeing, had camped up there.
Went for a walk up to Red Tarn yesterday taking axe and an old pair of crampons but not really expecting anything. Astonishingly beautiful day and found No 2 glacier still extends pretty well from the Tarn to the summit, complete and with good cover of superb neve. Descended the snow bowl and managed standing glissades down snow fields almost to the tarn. Unexpected treat.
Met a chap from Brazil, jokingly said "have you come to see our little mountains" and he expressed amazement at the beauty of what he was seeing, had camped up there.
Post edited at 08:59
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