In reply to Nick Russell:
Ta muchly Mr Nick!
An Cap Wk 1/2 weight = 73kg
Mon: 3 sets of 6 one arm hangs – mostly with fleeting grabs for support with other hand. First sagged slowly, then it deteriorated. Will leave these until we’re max strength training again.
Frenchies: 3 sets of 2 cycles – completed on first set, then 2 sets of 1 ½ cycles before failiure and finishing them off after a quick rest. First time I’ve tried these – what a burn – awesome!
Slow Motion Pull ups: 3 sets of 3 (5s up/10s down). Also new for me - harrrrd! Also ace!
Pull Up Intervals: pretty spent by now. Managed 3 sets of 4, starting on the minute.
Various core/circuits/antagonistic exercises/shoulder control muscle exercises.
Tues: More speed work. Did 10 reps again. Up to 5s up on most, only down by 2s on first one. Did '4km' in 13:55 excluding the rests = an improvement.
Wed: TCA; mucked about on some yellows (2nd hardest circuit but actually really hard) and blues (hardest circuit) and got a blue in 2 goes.
An-Cap Intervals on steep circuit board: First time I’ve ever tried this and I did much better than I thought I would. Did from 45s up to 2 mins on variously on the 7a, 6c and 6b circuits. Only problem was I had to ‘over rest sometimes’ as others were on the board or someone whom I hadn’t seen for ages showed up for a chin wag – great to catch up with folks, though. However, when I did get the rest/climb ratio equal, I could feel that steady pump like a good ‘un – liked it.
Frenchies: - 3 sets of 2 cycles – completed on first set, then 2 sets of 1 2/3 cycles before failiure and finishing them off after a quick rest. Still awesome!
Thurs: TCA; mucked about on some greens (2nd hardest circuit) and got a three or four of ‘em – pretty easy ones mind.
An-Cap Intervals on less steep circuit board: Did from 45s – 90s starting on the 7a+, then mostly on the 6b+/6c and finishing on the 6a+. Got the intevals working better today, felt a steady pump throughout.
Frenchies: - 3 sets of 2 cycles – completed on 1 2/3, then 2 sets of 1 1/3 cycles before failiure and finishing them off after a quick rest. Still awesome!
Fri: And relax!
Sat: Running interval training; found a flattish spot and ran 5 x1km intervals with 1 min jogging on the spot rests, at 18min 5K pace in theory. Turned out, it took 18:49 for the running bits. Hard.
Sun: Ahh, the mighty Huntsham. Had a super afternoon. Started off on a new boulder, the Cube Boulder. Did a 6C dyno and ‘greened’ off of the top slap of a 7A. Tried another 7A one move wonder (didn’t get it) before heading to the Sliced Slug for An-Cap training. Did 32 mins of same time on/off intervals with the first being a repeat of Ames Low 7A+ and then onwards and downwards until I could barely do the classic Underflake 6A. Brilliant fun, adding a new take on an old playground, will be back for more of this! And the sunset…
Right then, goals:
STG (by Easter):
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both).
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power
Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness
MTG (by September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them!
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
Lovin' the An-Cap, more next week.
Love from,
Joyce,
Xxxx