UKC

Wanted: Who knows this route to the r.h.s. of Kinder Downfall?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 GermanAlex 08 Feb 2015

Hey there,

short story: Who knows this line? Grade?
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RT__8wup70U/VNeaVDneMQI/AAAAAAAACP4/wz4K...

Long story:
A few days ago a mate and me were headed for Downfall, which proved to be quite a slushfest. However to the right hand sight there was an attractive-looking line in the shade, promising solid ice.

I led the route which starts maybe 30m or so to the r.h.s. of Kinder Downfall at a short steep-ish section of thin ice, then up a snow scoop to the bottom of the second ice section (belay). The second pitch went up an icicle in a corner onto a solid sheet of ice to the right, through a small overhang and onto a few ice steps to the top.

Grade-wise I'd probably say around IVish, the vertical sections are too short to be really sustained and the overhang is not too difficult to overcome.

Does anyone know this route? Grade?
Post edited at 17:32
 mmmhumous 08 Feb 2015
In reply to GermanAlex:

Hi Alex do you know who was taking the photos?
OP GermanAlex 08 Feb 2015
In reply to mmmhumous:

Sure, Joe was so kind to take the pictures (UKC name JFH)
 Richard Apps 10 Feb 2015
In reply to GermanAlex:

I top roped this Thursday last week having spotted (your?) tracks in the snow scoop. I pulled through the overhang at the left end and thought it really quite tricky (out of practice). Would agree with the grade but haven't found any reference to it in the guides I own.

Also climbed the ice column a little further to the left which I guessed to be WI4 / 4+. Very delicate on account of being poorly bonded to the rock. Excellent line as you really needed to think about how to climb it without destroying the lot.
 Offwidth 10 Feb 2015
In reply to GermanAlex:
It doesn't have a name as far as I'm aware. Quite a few lines like this form occasionally on the high moorland edges but Id rather they stay as a happy memory rather than part of a tick list. Listing it risks the almost inevitable muppets climbing it in crampons without the ice.
Post edited at 15:24
OP GermanAlex 11 Feb 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

Whilst I certainly understand the sentiment behind your concerns (especially with soft and somewhat fragile Gritstone), I find myself divided on the notion of keeping routes "secret".
On the one side, the past has shown that the inconsiderate actions of few can severely undermine the interests of many (see drytooling at Millstone); and surely no one could approve of winter tool scars on the Downfall vista. Despite the existence of an unspoken codex, it remains unenforceable by its very nature.

Contrastingly, climbing of any colouration is and should be an egalitarian pastime. By actively omitting routes from guidebooks, or in this case even an online community (albeit a particularly polemic bunch), we determine that other people aren't "good enough" to share the same experience. This elitist outlook is one I certainly don't agree with.


On a completely different note and maybe tooting just the elitist horn I criticised above:
Particularly in the case of these often fragile ice routes in the Peak, is toproping really necessary? This is not Rjukan where and abundance of thick ice makes for plentiful choice, if the ice is not well-formed enough to lead it, maybe it best be left alone to consolidate? I'm sure Richard took great care to avoid damage to rock, but the practice of toproping leaves even the thinnest layer of ice (and more critically the rock underneath) susceptible to the attacks of climbers unwilling to take the risk of the lead.


 Offwidth 11 Feb 2015
In reply to GermanAlex:

Ice is an unreliable and ever-changing medium: are we to tick the downfall differently for all the different common forms and ice conditions it takes?

On a different elitist line I'd rather people top-rope these delicate ice routes carefully than lead them in bad style and do damage to the rock if things get unexpectedly scary.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...