UKC

Any recommendations for my first Grade IV lead next week (Somewhere around the Ben or Glencoe).

The Curtain and White shark are already on the hit list, any others I should take a look? I'm after decent ice rather than mixed, with a short walk in (by Scottish standards).

In reply to mmmhumous:

Dependant on conditions http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=86099/ would be a good shout.

Waterfall Gully on The Ben. It is literally a stroll from the CIC and the main ice pitch is right off the ground. Most people just ab off again.

In reply to mmmhumous:

Both The Curtain & White Shark are quite steep for your first grade IV, they're both IV,5 (White Shark is due to be upgraded). Comb Gully, Green Gully, Central Gully Right Hand are all a little less steep, and perhaps more suitable for your first grade IV. Have fun!

In reply to KA:
No6 Gully in the Coe Smashing route good belays and its a fairly easy walk
Albeit uphill, you should be climbing within the hour.

In reply to stevieweesaxs107:

I suspect you'll need to wait for another good hard low-altitude freeze in Glencoe to do No.6 this year.

In reply to mmmhumous:

Comb Gully would be a good shout. Cracking wee route.

In reply to KA:

Anything at IV will be fine (am comfortable seconding V/6)

In reply to tallpaulselfridge:

May do taxus on the way home...but my mate's already called dibbs on the lead.

In reply to mmmhumous:
I would also say comb gully, but it depends on where you got most of your mileage at on grade 3's, ice or mixed etc.. don't change the medium and the grade at the same time!!

Or, it's less adventurous, but lead something you've seconded before.

In reply to mmmhumous:

My first grade IV lead was SW ridge of the Douglas boulder, but that is mixed not ice, so not as much help, but a lovely route at the grade (IV 5), well protected everywhere you need it.

In reply to planetmarshall:


+1 that. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=606217 and recent temps.

In reply to mmmhumous:

I reckon White Shark is a bit of a sandbag for the grade aswell. Quite thin when i did it so maybe just the conditions but it was Steeper (although not as sustained) than anything on Orion, Zero and maybe even Last Post on Meagaidth. Nice route though and you can sort of stick your foot out a bit at the back of the corner for a bit of bridging if your tall enough

For what its worth, I think Jet stream on Aonach Mor is a pretty good option. Spot on grade 4 with different/harder finish available. Some cornice tunnelling comedy also a possibility....

Jon

In reply to KA:


Agreed with all of these. Italian Right-Hand is a bit harder than these 3, but could also be OK in fat conditions.

Another really steep one that's high in the grade and probably best avoided is Cascade on the Ben.

In reply to mmmhumous:
Crowberry Gully is in pretty easy nick presently. Good belays for the harder pitches and the occasional good runner.

Plus it is a great day out, close to the road and tops out right at the top of a really cool hill!

In reply to mmmhumous:

Comb Gully in great shape today. It's really just one 60m pitch, but what a pitch! Lovely ice all the way.

In reply to mmmhumous:

Central Gully, Right Hand on Creag Coire na Ciste on the BenN. IV/4 ***.

High, and therefore stays in. Watch for cornices in that area but the big bowl above and the amount of traffic tend provide options at the top.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=594