UKC

DMM Apex Axes?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 chrismcd23 11 Feb 2015
Hi,

Has anyone used a set off DMM Apex axes yet?

I am looking to upgrade my axes at the end of this season and these axes seem to be what im looking for.

Just looking for some first hand reviews from people how have used them.

Thanks

Chris
 lithos 11 Feb 2015
In reply to chrismcd23:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=5200

go to the gear section and search for apex..
OP chrismcd23 11 Feb 2015
In reply to lithos:

Thanks for that, had a look at that earlier, thats what got me interested in them

Cheers
 Sharp 11 Feb 2015
In reply to chrismcd23:

had a wee swing of a pair a couple of years ago, great feel to them, love the technical angle without the moulded hand rest its just a shame about the colour imo
Swampi 11 Feb 2015
In reply to chrismcd23:

I upgraded from a several year old pair of battered DMM Flys to some Apexs a several months ago. Can't recommend them enough!

Not so steep stuff: Plunge really nice with the non-nomic style handle. Plus the adze sits really nicely in the palm of your hand in 'Piolet Canne'. I actually prefer them to my old Flys for this. Fine for self-arresting.

Slightly steeper: Holding the top part just below the pick is amazing for daggering. I feel like Ueli Steck everytime! I also put some of the supplied grip-tape here.

Pretty steep: Holding the axe at the mid -grip feels really good. Helping with the swing and angle of pull. Again I put the grip-tape here as well.

Steep/Vertical: The steep curve means the pick goes in a lot more vertical and securely than my old Flys. It also reaches round bulges much better. The ability to switch hands using the mid-grip while traversing/reaching higher is a real nice feature.

Overhanging: Not so great here compared to the Nomic style handles, as the pick can move around a bit if you switch between grips. Plus you could get pumped a bit quicker. Not an issue for me as I'm not a drytooler!

Snow belay: Can still be used in a t-slot together in somekind of overlapping to the handles configuration. Apparently this can be stronger than a normal walking axe - google some Glenmore Lodge article on it.

Basically, if you want to do Scottish Winter to a non-Jedi level or technical Alpinism then these are the bad boys for you! Highly recommended!
In reply to chrismcd23:

Another big thumbs up from me. Awesome tools!
OP chrismcd23 12 Feb 2015
In reply to chrismcd23:

Thanks for the info guys. Everything that I wanted to hear. Will have to save my pennies now!

Cheers

Chris
 Casa Alfredino 12 Feb 2015
In reply to chrismcd23:

Been using them for a couple of seasons now. I can't say my world is completely lit up by them but they are decent. Hammering pins is only just possible, and placing them in flat ice after pulling over a bulge is often a pain as the head angle is so steep it can ounce off because of all the acute angles going on. When you're on vertical ice they're good though. Not sure how well the picks will last - they seem to be slightly more mungy (yes that's a technical term ) than BD steel, but that's only a feeling - no doubt somebody will be on in a minute to tell me different... For me the crank in the shaft feels a bit too acute, but then maybe I'm a bit old for all these curvy axes...
 jshields 12 Feb 2015
In reply to chrismcd23:

Another vote for the Apex, been using mine for a couple of seasons now and very happy with them.
On steeper ground Nomics have the edge, but these strike a good balance if you intend to do a variety of climbing styles and are only in the market for one pair of axes.
It also supports British Industry, use it, or loose it!
Hope this helps.
Jon
OP chrismcd23 13 Feb 2015
In reply to jshields:

Thanks Jon, yea I like to try support the British Climbing Industry, have been try to do that a bit more recently.

Cheers

 Andy Hewison 13 Feb 2015
In reply to chrismcd23:
A vote from me for the Apex's, new to me this season and I really like them. I used them on Hadrians Wall Direct on Wednesday and found the curvature was great for the ice bulges on that route.
Post edited at 13:52

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...