UKC

Just browsing climbing falls (as you do), this seems interesting. A sizeable fall from a slab into the air, his leg doesn't catch on anything, but he gets a hell of a nasty catch. I'm wondering if falling down a slab gives you more of an "away from the rock" direction of travel, meaning you get a harsher change in direction when the rope goes tight.

The belayer has probably taken as much slack as possible to avoid a ground fall (understandable), but would a more dynamic catch have reduced the "whip" effect?

Perhaps it's related to the pitch of the climber after leaving the rock, while falling down the slab he kind of ends up leaning back a bit, which sets you up for back pain when the rope tightens.

youtube.com/watch?v=8gZ2z65mfeM&

In reply to JimboWizbo:

ouch

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Not much give on the rope.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Looks like his toe caught at the base of the slab - quite a common affliction. He was lucky not to flip upside down. He must have lost skin!

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Anyone know what crag and which route?

In reply to Adam Moroz:
Peak Technique I'd guess (from what's written top left of the video throughout) - Bowden

In reply to Adam Moroz:

Peak Technique at Back Bowden.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

http://www.rockandice.com/video-gallery/weekend-whipper-back-slapper-off-th...

In reply to JimboWizbo:

From my experience, yes a dynamic catch makes this kind of fall a little bit less awkward and slightly reduces the risk of injury, but I think the difference wouldn't have been big.
However, looking at that, it may have been a good idea to wear a helmet. The climber had no control which part of the body slammed into the rock first and it could well have been the head, just a matter of chance.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Reading what the belayer has written elsewhere on this, the gear was at 7 feet, the climber was at 20 feet, so he had to sprint backwards to try to prevent a groundfall (he had a runner at ground level to let him to this without pulling out the higher gear). Robbie had already fallen from this point on a previous attempt and was fine, but on this occasion, his feet seemed to catch, pinging him outwards and ripping the gear.

In reply to JJL:

Point taken

In reply to Adam Moroz:

Hey, no worries. Just re-read my comment and it sounds far more arsey than I meant.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Looks like the belayer had to take in loads of slack quickly, making a soft catch very difficult to pull off.

Also, the video is a great advert for wearing a helmet . I can see why you wouldn´t necessarily wear one climbing at your endurance or power limit on a hard overhanging sport route (where there will be pro in the overhanging bit).

A slab above a steep bit, with the pro right at the transition will always tend to whack you back into the wall.

CB