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UK bouldering roadtrip

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 mrmoe17 23 Feb 2015
Afternoon Everyone,

I am looking this summer to have a 10 or so day bouldering trip around the uk and thought i would put a post out to see where peoples favourite bouldering haunts are!

im pushing aroung the V6/7 mark max at the moment but really want to have an awesome trip and try some outstanding routes, grades are not as important to me but dont want to rock up at a kill zone.

i am based in the south east and would like to link up as many different locations as feasible.

thanks all.

Paul
 goose299 23 Feb 2015
In reply to mrmoe17:

Don't forget the Lancashire quarries!
 james.slater 23 Feb 2015
In reply to mrmoe17:

Well in some places (thinking, Peak district, North Wales) you will find it hard to move on with only 10 days! You could easily spend a month in each of those places and have plenty to do. Nesscliffe is worth a half day at least, nothing really tops out but good technical climbing. North wales has masses of real classic bouldering, as does the peak district. I recommend the boulder britain guide, would be very suitable for a tour of short stops/different venues
 Ian Broome 23 Feb 2015
In reply to mrmoe17:

Yorkshire, Caley, Almscliffe, Earl, Brimham, Crookrise, someof the higher moorland crags if its not too midgy are worth a trip if its a warm day mid summer. Earl and Caley are fairly shady.
 James Malloch 23 Feb 2015
In reply to mrmoe17:

We did a nice trip this summer going from Sheffield where we lived through Yorkshire sport climbing but you have all the grit if preferred. Then up to St bees, then dumbarton before dropping over to northumberland. Made a nice trip and we basically followed the weather.

Though there's obviously the peak and north Wales too but we had been to those a bit more so went somewhere new.
 Jon Stewart 23 Feb 2015
In reply to mrmoe17:
Places I would travel to include:

Peak:
Stanage, Roaches, Curbar, Robin Hoods Stride/Cratcliffe.

Yorkshire:
Caley, Slipstones, Almscliff, Earl.

Lakes:
St Bees - really worth the drive. Check out this video http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1807

Northumberland:
No idea, but it looks good.

I only really like sandstone/gritstone bouldering, which isn't perfect for summer, but you could pick cool breezy places up on the moors if you needed to. I would try to go early in the summer, as the sweatiness and midginess get much worse in August, when some places are totally unclimbable.
Post edited at 22:37
 GPN 23 Feb 2015
In reply to mrmoe17:
If it was me, I'd go something like:
Yorkshire
Earl Crag, Caley and Simon's/Lord's Seat
The Lakes
St Bees, Sampson Stones, Carrock Fell
Northumberland
Queens Crag, Kyloe in, Simon-side

Obviously it depends on the weather, but most of these venues are good bets in summer (unless it's really wet/muggy).

George.

 robin mueller 23 Feb 2015
In reply to mrmoe17:

Lots of mentions of yorkshire/peak grit so far but not many people mentioning Lancs grit. Thorn Crag or Stony Edge are two brilliant moorland venues which most people love. Thorn would be a good stop off on the way up to the lakes.

As has been mentioned, summer is not the best time of year for grit bouldering, so moorland stuff is a better option than places like stanage and curbar, especially if you've been to those before.

However, rather than visiting a ton of sweaty gritstone/sandstone venues, you'd probably have great fun if you mixed up the rock types. Check out some limestone - Anston Stones maybe, or Trowbarrow/Woodwell. Check out one or two lancs quarries (Brownstones for easier stuff, Ousel's for 7's, Wilton 4 for highballs, Longridge for an endless overhang). Check out Pex Hill. Check out Bowderstone for steepness, Sampson Stones/Lad Stones for big days out, St Bees for seaside fun. You could have a great trip starting in the peak, moving up through the northwest and into the lakes.

And then there's Wales (north and south)...
And Ireland.
And Scotland.

10 days isn't long enough for all of the above!



OP mrmoe17 24 Feb 2015
thanks guys,

i will take a look through these and plan out something fun. 10 days isnt enough by far, but will make the most of it!

lets hope for a dry summer

In reply to mrmoe17:

Paul,
If you're going to do a Uk trip then don't piss about and get yourself to torridon. Follow the weather and hit glen nevis and Loch Katrine on the way back. All of these are high on quality and easily enough quantity to keep you occupied for a day trip, especially in the 6's and low 7's and all in absolutely fantastic settings.

Dumby is amazing but can be hard to get into in a single day.

Stop off at St Bees and/or bowderstone if you're feeling strong then head over to Bowden/Kyloe/Hepburn to finish up. Don't worry about anything south of these, you can do them anytime from SE England and it's mostly pretty shit anyway

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