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NEWS: Canada's Hardest Mixed Route for Ramon Marin

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 UKC News 03 Mar 2015
Canada's hardest mixed route for Ramon Marin #4, 3 kbLondon-based mixed climber Ramon Marin has had a successful climbing trip in Canada, ticking some of the hardest mixed routes the country has to offer, with ascents of Musashi (M12) and Steel Koan (M13+). The latter established by Will Gadd is thought to be Canada's hardest mixed route.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69544
 TobyA 03 Mar 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Read Ramon's blog over the weekend - very impressive stuff, although obviously a great shame that their number one target wasn't in condition. Well done Ramon, always great to see basically a weekender (he has a full time job) with dedication to training can achieve so much!
 Morgan Woods 03 Mar 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Nice one Ramon!
 Mr. Lee 03 Mar 2015
In reply to TobyA:

Yeah awesome. And based in London as well, which is hardly a convenient base for training.
 Misha 03 Mar 2015
In reply to UKC News:
Go Team White Goods!
 ERU 03 Mar 2015
An awesome trip Ramon! Inspiring stuff!

I'd be keen to know if you used the new Petzl ice screws or the new e-climb ones?
1
 The Pylon King 04 Mar 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Bolted nonsense.
3
 GDes 04 Mar 2015
In reply to Pylon King Against Capit@lism:

Idiot.
In reply to UKC News:

Inspiring stuff as always Ramon.
 philhilo 04 Mar 2015
In reply to UKC News: Congrats Ramon. Goes to show what can be done by hard work and perseverance. It's a long haul to the tooling venues of White Goods and Masson Lees, and Ramon has had to put up many of his hard training lines.

Well done mate. Inspiring effort.
 Misha 04 Mar 2015
In reply to Pylon King Against Capit@lism:

Thank you for that valuable contribution.
1
 Ramon Marin 05 Mar 2015
In reply to Pylon King Against Capit@lism:
Thanks guys!

@Pylon King, it's waiting it's first trad ascent, I reckon it goes around Scottish XV or XVI, I'm serious. I think you should come and do the first ascent. I've also heard La Dura Dura goes on trad too, you should have a go at that too
Post edited at 08:43
 andyinglis 05 Mar 2015
In reply to UKC News:

With heal spurs eh, didn't realise anyone used them anymore...... I noticed Jeff mercier reckons steel koan easier than the game at m12+........

Andy
 Misha 05 Mar 2015
In reply to andyinglis:
That's just the rear four point crampon that goes on the heel, it's not a heel spur. The rear points do face outwards a bit but nothing like a spur. (I've got the same boots)
 Ramon Marin 09 Mar 2015
In reply to andyinglis:

@Andy, Sarah Huekinen, Will Gadd and Angelika Rainer all claimed Steel Koan it to be M13+, so that's the grade I took. Will Gadd says Musashi is benchmark M12 in the world (although I thought it was soft), Steel Koan is miles harder than Musashi, so I think 13+ is understandable. I only climbed about ten M11 and two M12, so I can't really compare, but Steel Koan is way harder than Guardian of the underworld M12 at the Works, that I did in a day and Jeff told me was M13. Steel Koan took me 3 days. So I'm confused Jeff says is only 12+? Mind you, not even the locals know where the route goes, so maybe he did the easier start on Rocky Mountain Horrow show which people do, that's why I made a topo of the crag as there no source to check.

No heel spurs mate, I've never used them, not my style. it's the back crampon piece so I can climb multipitch routes in my comp boots, standing on ice ledges is rather tricky with a rubber heel...
In reply to Ramon Marin:

Nice work Ramon, not a bad consolation prize to the trip - ace photos too.

Hopefully see you down in Pembroke over the bank holiday weekend!

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