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Finger injury treatment.

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 lucas95 21 Mar 2015
Whilst having a bit of a Boulder yesterday, l heard a pop in my little finger along with pain in the base of the finger.

Using Dr Google, l've come up with a pulled A2 Pulley in the finger. I'm happy with the treatment of resting and icing the finger, but, my question is, would it help to tape the finger up for support or just keep it moving with some gentle flex exercises?

Cheers for any advice.
 The Potato 21 Mar 2015
In reply to lucas95:

probably only need to tape it for support if you need to use it.
 zv 21 Mar 2015
In reply to lucas95:

What I'd do is:

Rest until you have full mobility back, this may take anywhere from a week to a month depending on the severity of the injury.

Come back very gently into climbing. Tendons and ligaments do not like change. Measure progress in weeks, keeping in mind that "easier" bolder problems in the region of V3, V4 can actually be very stressfull on the fingers if they are crimpy.

I don't think there's any scientific evidence that taping is effective, however I put quite a lot of tape around the finger to make sure that I can't fully crimp and also to remind me that it is actually still injured.

In the process, it might be worth modifying further your technique to be less reliable on full crimps with careful footwork and use of a half crimp and fully openhanded grip. Dave Macleod writes a great deal about this in both of his books.

In the process also, try not to get depressed if you miss too much climbing! In January I came back to climbing after tearing a ligament almost completely in September. It took me two months of having fun on easier stuff and recruiting strength and technique back to get where I was before. In fact, just did a personal best at the wall and feel stronger than before the injury and with more understanding of how to train and push.

Happy healing and enjoy the free time you get from climbing in the meantime, hope it's a minor tweak that takes a week or so! :p
Wushaman 21 Mar 2015
As a practisioner of Chinese Medicine, i particulary recomment either acupuncture and Tuina for any form of ligament damage. Rest is important but also the sensible therapeutic rehabilitation and treatment.
1
 3 Names 21 Mar 2015
In reply to Wushaman:

> Your second sentence doesn't seem to make sense, in relation to your first?
OP lucas95 21 Mar 2015
In reply to zmv:

Cheers for all the advice. hopefully it's not to bad and l'll be back playing soon.

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