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UKC Fit Club Week 419

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 Nick Russell 29 Mar 2015
UKC Fit Club Week 419

Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=612083

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Last week's posters:
biscuit - Training still on the up?
planetmarshall - Welcome! Nice set of goals. Try putting some shorter term stuff in there too.
Nick Russell - holding up the lurgy club.
mbh - 75 miles in a week is pretty incomprehensible to me. If you think you'd benefit from speed work, make a firmer commitment to it. In your position I'd find it easier to motivate myself to do it if I dropped the 50 mile goal for the week, and dedicated 2 days to interval sessions.
AJM - Have fun in SA!
Exile - Gargoyle Wall is a good tick, even if the conditions weren't sufficiently adverse for you!
hms - Well done on Chulilla! I'm unlikely to be a good shout for a partner for the next ~4-5 weeks, but looking forward to the summer evenings after that!
The Ex-Engineer - Well done on the undocumented short term goals! Good to see some new ones in there.
Cheese Monkey - When is the tri? Good luck with the training! My brother is in BADtri, he says it's a good club.
Mutl3y - Sounds like a good progression. I do the same thing - starting on 6/4 then increasing to 7/3.
0.5viking - Did you get the weather you hoped for?
mrchewy - A caving system? As in, they're building artificial (plastic?) caves? Sounds bizarre, but I suppose I don't go caving. Well done getting out to Curbar.
Lancer - Are you over the lurgy now?
Just Tintin - Prepared for font?
Dandan82 - Nice work on Zinc Oxide Mountain - sounds like it will go soon!
flopsicle - Well done in the WBL! If other people say it was hard, take the ego boost: you're probably improving and acknowledging that will help see more gains.
Ally Smith - So, more fingerboard in the pipeline after Tom's comments?
Willi Crater - Sounds like a fiendish move on that project - did you get back to it this week?
JayK - Getting over the lurgy?
Joughton - Good to see you back and on good form!
Humperdink - Well done in the half marathon! Excellent splits there (from what little I know about running).
Tyler - Have a good time in Chamonix!
Creedence - Shame about the tire. Good day on Saturday!
Joyce - Good work at Almscliff. Sounds like you're right there with the 7B+ goal!
Ian Rock - Head makes a massive difference, even indoors. When I'm busy at home/work it can be better to switch over to maintenance on training.
mattrm - Did you get a session in this week?

Lots of people posting, some interesting discussions and the start of British summer time - I think Fit Club's in pretty good shape!
 Dandan 29 Mar 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:

> Dandan82 - Nice work on Zinc Oxide Mountain - sounds like it will go soon!

Thanks Nick, weather didn't allow a return to Zinc this weekend unfortunately, but i'm confident it will go very soon.

A good week overall, blemished slightly by a bit of lurgy at the start of the week, but my performance for the rest of the week was very pleasing indeed.

M: Lurgy
T: Lurgy
W: Boulder, indoor; making up new hard problems, working some old ones
T: Strength and conditioning
F: Rest
S: Routes, indoor; 4x4s - 7a+, 6c+, 7a, 7a
S: Rest

Wednesdays boulder session was really good, on the plus side I had rested for 3 days and I have lost a little bit of weight as planned, on the negative side I was still a bit snotty and I have been cutting my calories so thought I might feel a bit weak. As it turned out I felt really light and really strong, I started by setting some new problems to try and stump myself, then I got on a couple of problems that I had been working for a few weeks. I got up one problem almost straight away, where I could only do it in 3 overlapping sections before, awesome! It's graded V7 but I personally think it's harder, I added weight to this opinion by then flashing another route on the same wall that was also graded V7!

Saturday was down to Calshot where, on 80+ roped lines, they currently have 2 7a's. Two. One of those is awful and practically un-climbable, so my options were limited for trying to do 4x4's all at 7a as per the training plan.
I started with a super tiny crimpy (no finger worries any more!), slightly overhanging shallow arete climb graded 7a+, it actually has some decent moves on it and in 4 back to back hits at it, I couldn't get it clean.
Then a 6c+ on the old wave wall that I recalled finding stiff before, 4 goes up that revealed it to be slightly awkward but probably on the grade.
Third set was a black 7a in the main cave that I did a couple of weeks ago, last time the 4th rep was the living end, I was shouting and puffing like a train, this week the 4th rep felt the same as the first!
I repeated this one for the fourth set, again, it was no big issue, the 30 seconds rest I get lowering off is pretty much enough to let me fully recover. I'm so, so pleased with this, it's a significant. measurable gain and i'm feeling really psyched for my holiday now, I reckon my endurance is better than ever.

One week to go now until we jet off to Kaly, I asked my coach about tapering before the holiday and i'm pretty sure he suggested keeping the volume high and the difficulty low, then a friend of mine yesterday suggested the opposite, low volume but reasonably hard stuff, anybody got any tapering advice? I've never done it before.

I'm hesitant to set any targets for my holiday, I really just want to enjoy it and have an injury free fortnight, but i'll be pleased if I can come back with an *8a Redpoint* and a *7b Onsight*. Alternatively I'd be happy with a raft of 7a/+ onsights and a handful of 7b/c/+ redpoint ticks.

Weight last Friday: 69.2kg
Weight this Friday: 67.2kg (-2kg)
Target for next Friday was 64.2kg but I think i'll update it to a more realistic 65.7kg, thats a total 3.5kg loss in 2 weeks.

I may not be able to post for the next two weeks, if so, I will have a mega three week update after the holiday, and then i'm happy to take on the stats from that week (19th) if needed.
 mattrm 29 Mar 2015
In reply to Nick Russell:

Thanks for doing the stats.

STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st 3lbs (same)

M - 5k run
T - T - Rest
F - mountain bike ride - 7k, 450m asc
S - 100 dish tucks
S - 200 dish tucks

No climbing again this week. I was away on business the first few days and then ended up getting sucked into DIY. Got out for a bike ride for the first time in a couple of years, which is good as I've got a 55km enduro booked for the start of May. Hope to get out on the bike again next week and I've got a session booked in for Monday for climbing. Maintaining the weight, but need to get on it again to get down to 12 stone. Hope to be well under 12st for the ride. Which is the Dyfi Enduro incase anyone is wondering. Been meaning to do it for at least 10 years or so, so glad to finally be doing it.
OP Nick Russell 29 Mar 2015
This week started out well, then I got ill and the last 3 days have been a write off.

M - TCA. A few yellow problems (6A+ - 6C) + a few on the Mothership.
T - UCR. Warm-up then 4 or 5 attempts at a white+red 7b. Lots of volumes. It's actually pretty steady up to the last move, but I've done that one independently now so quite optimistic it will go.
W - Nothing. Busy at work.
T - Nothing. Felt the start of some kind of lurgy so didn't want to push it.
F,S,S - Nothing. Ill.

The good news from this week is that I have a job lined up for after my PhD! Developer/data analyst at MoveGB in Bath. Not one of the options discussed at the start of the year (I decided against academic jobs), but it seems like a great place to work - good team, flexible conditions, and I can still live in Bristol. The downside is that I'm now rushing to finish my thesis in the next ~2 weeks before I go on a trip to Morocco. I know, it's a hard life :p

Goals
  • New routes in Morocco
    I need to actually do some climbing before I go. I've had 2 of the last 3 weeks written off due to manflu - not good preparation!
  • Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
    Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
  • Tick off some of the harder Avon trad that I've not got round to yet
    Peryl, Low Profile -> Think Pink, GT Special, Amanita, Central Wall, Main Wall Eliminate
  • Sort out the asymmetry
    A bit of an ongoing thing
  •  planetmarshall 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    First week of training quite quiet. A hand injury I picked up in January has flared up and I need to get it diagnosed before I can really progress with climbing goals.

    Mon - Rest
    Tue - Went to see Matt Pidgen about my hand injury, advised a scan before progressing so it's now in the NHS pipeline. Will see how long this takes before deciding if I want to stump up the cash and go private.
    Wed - Max heart rate test, 15m warm up jog followed by 2 minute run and 30 sec max effort uphill. Result was 205 bpm, which puts Zone 1 in around the 150bpm mark.
    Thu - Rest
    Fri - 8.25km/357m trail run
    Sat - 8.09km/206m trail run
    Sun - some very easy toproping at AW Sheffield. Hand was mostly OK but don't want to push things.

    Short term goals

    * Increase running distance to at least 10km
    * Reduce rest days to max 2 per week.
    * Continue aerobic training for next 3 weeks.
    * Determine if some light climbing activity is possible or if this will aggravate my injury. Currently dependent on the NHS timetable.

    Andrew.
    Post edited at 17:53
     Ally Smith 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Tapering was discussed a few weeks back; reduce volume, maintain difficulty. You want to be rested, but firing on all cylinders.

    Read Alex's training pdf linked in the opening post for more details.
     Ally Smith 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Congratulations on the job Nick!

    Having seen colleagues try and write up simultaneously with having a job, i'd thoroughly recommend you take the hit now and get the thesis out the way while you can.
     mbh 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Thanks for doing the intro again Nick, and great news about the job.

    You're right that I need to commit more firmly to the speed work thing, if I am going to do it, in the way that I have to the 50 mile a week target, which I have managed to hit 46 times in the last 52 weeks. However rather than give up that mileage target, which I think works well for me, I'll try to include some intervals within longer runs, perhaps in fartlek kind of way, perhaps off the watch. I already do runs with a lot of up and down, which gives me the chance to put in some hill work and some fast miles, including when tired.

    So, anyway, this week wasn't great in that I only did four runs, following shenanigans and laziness mid-week, but I did get 50 miles in (just), for the 24th time in a row, I did do a long run and a few sub 7 miles.

    M - lazy
    T - 9.2 miles from work to catch a lift home @ 7:27
    W - same again @7:09, the last 6 (all gravity assisted!) @6:53
    T - lazy
    F - aaagh!
    S - 20 miles up onto Bodmin moor and back, with 2860ft ascent in 2:49 something @ 8:26, which is quite fast with that ascent. Beat last week's time by 4 minutes, and 13 s/m. This felt good. A tough route with big hills right to the end and I kept up the pace, with several miles in the 7s throughout. Now I've done several hilly routes at this distance. I feel mentally better able to cope with that than when I rarely went much over 10 miles.
    S - 12.8 miles @ 8:18. Legs really achy

    51.4 m / 4700 ft, and now 764 m and 80,000ft for the year so far.

    A 30 mile route planned for Easter Sunday, taking in Carn Brae and St Agnes Beacon, with actual other humans. Looking forward to it.


     mrchewy 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Glad you've work sorted chap!

    Yeah, the caving system is 50m long. Can't say I'll be going near it but it's playing havoc with the climbing. The main room just stinks of glue and there's still two weeks left to go. On the plus side, the dyno area has gone and is to be replaced with some sort of system board...

    STG - Get out and start hillsprints this week in prep for Salbit South Ridge this summer.
    LTG - Font 7A, Salbit West Ridge.

    Had a couple of growths removed during a colonoscopy 5 weeks ago and found out on Monday that they were cancer free - so pleased. I have a high risk of colon cancer and one of them wasn't small, the upshot being I need to be tested every three years from now on. I don't mind at all, if it helps catch it early - I'm a happy man.

    Mon - Boulder. Tried right hard. My mate had just had his 4th chemo session and wass pulling as hard as ever, so tried to put in the same shift. Tried V4/5 till my arms suddenly went 'uh' after Curbar the day before. Skin gone.
    Tue - Was gonna do a aerocap recovery session but the place was just fumes, so just belayed. My skin and arms were gone anyway.
    Wed - Placebo @ Hammersmith. 7 pints of strong lager later...
    Thu - Died the thousand deaths of a recovering binge drinker.
    Fri - Felt rough, so bed at 6.30pm. Pathetic.
    Sat - Woke up with arm trapped under me, pulled something in the lower shoulder. Lots of stretching etc.
    Sun - Climbing Unit, Derby. V grades were nonsensical (V1 = 6A?) but Font ones seemed about there. Did the easy circuit, worked on movement stuff, then tried some stuff with Wojtas. Climbs much harder than me but I flashed a couple of things he didn't - well happy with that. Staff were really friendly, setting was good on the lower stuff and reckon I ticked some 6B+ maybe? Nice to potter around, try things twice and then move on.

    Had the results from the MRI too - seems I strained and put a partial tear in the medial ligament at the end of January, just before I saw John Kettle and pretty proud I managed to ice, heat and climb my way through it. The rest of the knee got the all clear, bone, cartilage, cruciate but that's the third tear in the medial, gotta be proper careful from now on as I don't actually know how I did it. Physio is happy for me to start doing some gentle running on grass, as long as it's not too far and that means hill sprints. Cannae wait :-D

    It would be easy to say Placebo played havoc with the week but my arms, shoulders and tips were mashed to be honest - not sure I could have done more climbing anyway.

    Was not a bad week with the health results, hadn't realised how stressed I'd been about it and in general, I'm feeling as strong as I did this time last year, despite weighing 5 or 6kg more. Lose the weight before heading to Spain and it can only be better.
     mbh 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to mrchewy:

    >Was not a bad week with the health results

    Yay! Great news for you.
     Exile 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Thanks for doing fit club again Nick.

    Aims:

    Winter VI 7 - Tick.

    Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar

    Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade

    Summer -get on some slate

    Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

    M: 1hr road bike (winter endurance)
    T: 1hr road bike (winter endurance)
    W: 1hr 30min PE and core at the wall (Summer rock)
    T: Rest
    F: 1hr road bike (winter endurance)
    S: Rest
    S: 1hr 30min power and core at wall. ok session (Summer rock)

    A good week. Excellent session on Wednesday.
     hms 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    thanks Nick. Good news over your job. Yes I'll definitely be pestering both you and Chubbard over the summer.

    M - Cycle commute. S&C x 3
    T - cycle commute. UCR routes, dozen in pairs to 7b which I got pretty high on.
    W - cycle commute. S&C x 3
    T - cycle commute. TCA in afternoon. Ticked a few yellows and a few of the purples which had eluded me before. Finished with a few circuits.
    F - bonus cycle commute to go to one of those 'you must attend' meetings which are never good news. Sweeping redundancies but fingers crossed I may have dodged a bullet.
    S - rest
    S - Bloc. long session. Comp wall plus quite a few blues which I hadn't tried before.

    so a steady week rather than a dramatic one. No outside climbing as weather not exactly v conducive to it - cold and damp then blowing most of a gale over the weekend. Hathersage in 2 weeks so soon be time to be spanked by grit again.
     Ally Smith 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to hms:

    Here's to bullet dodging; hope it all works out for you.
     AJM 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    +3 - one each for the comments on tapering, dodging bullets and writing up a phd before rather than during working...
     AJM 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    > AJM - Have fun in SA!

    Cheers Nick.

    MrsAJM and I are having a grand time of it so far. Definitely not really "proper" bouldering weather, way way too hot, but that makes it better for the BbQs afterwards! Been getting stuff done via morning/evening sessions and judicious shade timing.

    Day by day account would be a bit pointless but in terms of harder ticks so far I'm on 1 6C+, 2 6C (1 flashed, a long linkup so bouldering for route climbers) and 6 6B+ (4 flash). Usual set of failures at random grades as well. 7 climbing days left so hopefully continue to tick a load of classics and work on filling in my tiny bouldering pyramid somewhat.
     J B Oughton 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell: Cheers Nick,

    Decent week this week again, trying to get a bit fitter for Slovenia next week.

    Mon - rest
    Tue - went to High Tor with big trad ambitions only to discover I'd forgotten my harness! Resorted to doing the right-wing sports climbs using slings around trees for a belay, did a 6b+ and two 6c+/7as.
    Wed - rest
    Thurs - AW Stockport. Warmed up then onsighted 7a, 7b+, 7b, 7a, and failed on a 7b+ and 7c between those. Managed four laps on a 7a at the end.
    Fri - rest
    Sat - MCC. Warmed up, onsighted 7b+ and 7a+ but failed on another 7b+ and 7c. Kept powering out around two clips from the top as the routes were all very sustained so hopefully I'll come across some big rests in Slovenia.
    Sun - Core/bar work, getting closer to the one armer!

    So next week I'll be away but will update if I find WiFi. Should really have some goals but to be honest I'll just be very happy to be climbing on rock!

    Cheers, Jake
    OP Nick Russell 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to mrchewy:
    > Was not a bad week with the health results

    Sounds like great news!
    OP Nick Russell 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    > Having seen colleagues try and write up simultaneously with having a job, i'd thoroughly recommend you take the hit now and get the thesis out the way while you can.

    Thanks for the advice - it's very much my intention.
     Cheese Monkey 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    Thanks again Nick

    I'm doing triBristol Sprint distance 14th June. http://www.tribristol.org

    Lots of running this week and not enough cycling. Although I am ticking the days off that I'm supposed to be doing (just not necessarily in order). Found a great 20km cycling loop right from my door up and down Avon Gorge through Leigh Woods and Portway. Not much climbing, was hoping to get out for the whole weekend but this weather is utterly crap

    M- Swim, practiced some drills which really helped and gave me some things to think about. Concentrating on quality rather than quantity
    T- Bouldering at TCA ticked a handful of V4s quite quickly. 30min run afterwards
    W- Met up with fit clubs own ex-engineer and did Raw Deal at Cheddar nearly flashed cold, just had slightly wrong sequence. Fell off the 7a+ near it a few times. Will go next time
    T- Rubbish pool session, forgot my plan and felt weak. All the technique I thought I gained on Monday vanished. Followed up by a good 30min run though.
    F- 1hr cycle 14.5 miles. 20km in 50min going pretty steady. Felt strong, will be able to do 20k quicker.
    S- Rest Day. Wanted to get out on rock but weather diabolical. Yearly van clean + general sulk around house staring out of the window
    S- UCR session, long boulder warm up then-6b-6c-7a(one fall at crux)-6c(one rest) home and then 30min run -3.3miles so getting around 9min mile. Wanted to get out on bike but wind was mad

    Away on a training course this week then away at the weekend so unlikely to get climbing

    STG this week- More cycling. Swim better. Pray for sun Friday morning
    MTG- more v4s. Tick 7b. 750m swim-14 min. 5km run 20min. 20km bike 30min.
    LTG- 7b+, E2, onsight 6c+, triathlon in June. Olympic triathlon later in year?
    Post edited at 20:54
    In reply to Cheese Monkey: Cheers for climbing on Wednesday, it was a good session.

    Another decent week with four climbing sessions and a load of pull-ups tonight. Still feeling good but next week probably won't be amazing due to work and Easter Sunday commitments ...

    M - rest
    T - Routes - long but fairly relaxed session. Had 4 goes on a 7a+, although only the last one was a serious Redpoint. Have decided to tick this before going back to the 7b project.
    W - Sport @ Cheddar Gorge - Did Raw Deal (7a) and The Minstrel (7a+), both on the first Redpoint (i.e. second go).
    T - Boulder - Tried 37 new Blues, 32 onsight or within a few goes. One dyno (step on single foothold and jump) I will struggle with, the other 4 I failed to onsight and decided to leave until I was fresh to try again.
    F - Routes - 13 routes, all clean, mostly f6b-f6c onsight, plus one of the 4 blues mentioned above also ticked (with a fairly extreme rockover).
    S - work
    S - Pull-ups etc. - still away with work so 7 sets of 15-20 pull-ups plus some dips and press-ups.

    STGs
    1 - stretch more - FAIL!
    2 - f7b project - decided to work very similar f7a+ as stepping stone...
    3a - Blue circuit - 33 ticked, 1 failure, lots more to go...
    3b - Red ciruit - will do more Blues first.

    Finally, weather permitting would anyone want to climb at Dinas Rock (quality SE Wales sport!) on Thursday afternoon?
    I am currently about 15minutes away with work and will be free from around 14.30 on Thursday.
     Tyler 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Psyched to be back just as the clocks go forward, not psyched by the weather forecast. Itching to get on my RP targets and even to get some local evening trad ticks.

    M: Tried a rapid walk up to the Plan d'Aguille but only got 600m up before the snow got thick and the post holing started to hurt my foot.
    T: Hired a mountain bike with view to going along the Petit Balcon Nord and Sud but again thwarted by snow so went over to Vallorcine, 30kms and 600m
    W: Lazy, well I was on holiday
    T: First time on a road bike, 60km and 1000m ascent but did needed a 2 hour break to thaw out.
    F: A few hours down hill skiing
    S: Doing some tourist stuff, feet really sore afterwards, not sur eif it was the queuing or yesterday's skiing
    S: Pull ups; 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9.95, 1.5!
     Mutl3y 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Nice one Nick - good to have a assurance 6/4 is sensible. And we'll done on the job!

    M-felt under weather so just did pull ups, 1,10 sec rest, 2, 20 sec rest, 3, 30 sec etc. managed 117 this way.
    T/W/T - felt under weather and everyone at home ill
    F- quick session at matrix for a change. Did everything up to 6B+. Felt harder than expected but shouldn't have been surprised
    S-nowt
    S-regrettably didnt get a session in as life got in the way. Did press ups, leg raises, front levers and 2 laps of the BM5B (6/4) - managed 42,35=77. So full marks on first lap but a lot to learn on 2nd. Think I'll carry on with this till I score 84 before upping it.

    Weight - 63.4kgs MA down from 64.6kgs a week ago. This marks a new record low MA and the first time since forever that I've been under 10 stone for a week on ave. Chuffed doesn't describe it.

    Next steps - continue on the weight management, learning as I go along, find the mojo again and don't let life get in the way.
     Tyler 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

    > S - Pull-ups etc. - still away with work so 7 sets of 15-20 pull-ups plus some dips and press-ups

    Well that's shown up my efforts for what the are
     Cheese Monkey 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to The Ex-Engineer:

    Yeh it was a good session, can do afternoons/evenings at Cheddar any time if you fancy it again.
     0.5viking 29 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Thanks for doing FC Nick and congratulations with your job! As for the weather, I did go out on Wednesday, but to a different venue, but had a great day despite the cold and wind.

    STG (2weeks): Tick all the routes from the spring 2014 book up to 6B (+) -> didn’t manage 2 of the 6B+s, so worked on the autumn 2014 book, where I repeated everything up to 6B+.
    New goal: will come next week since I have family visiting this week. If the weather is nice, I hope to get some ski-touring or multipitch climbing done with my mom.

    Weight: 71.7 kg
    M: indoor climbing, partner was sick, so went bouldering and tried some of the spring 6B+s, but didn’t manage them. After that, I did some problems on the wall Magnus Midtbø designed, which are really hard (long dynamic moves and a lot of body tension required).
    T: 10x 10 sec hill sprints
    W: climbing outside, a couple of routes up to 4+ felt confident on gear and had practice building belays again (first time this year).
    T: indoor climbing, felt knackered from day before (I stand too much on my toes searching for good holds while climbing outside), so cramped in my calves. Did get on a new 7+ and had only one fall first try, route felt way too easy to be graded 7+ in my opinion, but it was a nice route anyhow.
    F: indoor bouldering, did 2 new problems on the magnus wall, worked on a 6C+ (didn’t manage to match on the tophold) and a 7A afterwards. Campustraining afterwards 1-5-1 on jugs, then 1-2-3-4-3-2-1 on jugs, laddering on 4cm rungs and managed to hang for 8 seconds on the half-balls that Jan Hojer was using in last week’s motivational video.
    S: rest
    S: indoor bouldering, trying the 6C+ again, but it has a nasty catch to a sharp hold, so stopped trying after my fingers started hurting. Hanging on the half-balls again and managed to do 2 pull-ups before I slid off and managed to campus up with one arm and hang for 3 seconds on the next one + some core exercises and flies.
     flopsicle 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Another disrupted week. Don't know about anyone else but I find it really hard to climb well when I'm down in the dumps?

    Mon - 4 mile run, hills.

    Tues - 4 mile run, hills.

    Wed - 3 mile run, hills. 1.5 hr climbing - bit rubbish!

    Thurs - 2 mile run, hills - set out to get the best time for the route and got it.

    Fri - Lead climbing, had my first proper leader fall, struggled up a route I've climbed well before, generally bit rubbish. 1 mile hill run with soon to be 7 yr old daughter - absolute pleasure!

    Sat - 1 hr (being generous!) climbing, did get up a route I flunked on weds so some gain.

    Sun - Food Glorious Food! All you can eat buffet for daughter's 'good parents eve' treat!
     Ally Smith 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Thanks for doing the stats again Nick - lots of keen people coming out the woodwork now spring has sprung!

    I've started to feel some strength returning this week after concentrating on stamina routes leading up to Oliana trip; still a way to go before Unjustifed is a goer?

    BHAG (2016 and beyond):
    - “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
    - Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
    - True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
    - Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
    - Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
    - Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!

    LTG (2015):
    - Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
    >8b+ RP options:
    - Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
    - Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
    >8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
    - Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight

    MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
    - Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
    - Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
    - Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
    - Table of Colours, 5.13a/b, RRG
    - Climb a route in the Madness Cave, RRG; by default >5.13a.
    - Check out “The Tube” 5.14a/b, RRG
    - The Dark Room, 7C+/8A
    - 36 Chambers, 7C
    - Be Ruthless sit, 7C+
    - In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
    - Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
    - Increase An-cap
    - Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
    - 74 kg & 6.5% BF


    STG (next week)
    - Do a foot-on lactate test – fail – outdoor campus board is saturated; will skip this now.
    - Fix/sports massage on hip flexor & shoulders – fail – sports masseuse is on hols.
    - Fingerboard and S&C workouts – tick - repeat this week.
    - Start portion control/no biscuit diet; 76.3 kg & 6.7% BF. Aim for 75 kg next week.
    - Unjustified - aim to link from 1st belay through crux.


    Last week:

    M - Rest. Booked flights for 5 day RRG/Bourbon trail stopover during work trip to USA

    T - Needed some ticks after some demoralising sessions. Went to the cave of justice after work. Bunch of repeats up to 7C. Failed to do LWH or Beaver Cleaver though. Got spanked trying start of In Life/In Heaven. Needed video beta – I was trying the original 7C+ way!

    W - Worked out a new an-cap circuit on the 45; the new board isn’t quite symmetrical; RH version definitely a notch up over LH. Then did a bunch of the blue circuit (V7/8’s) I’d not done before. Played on the dips machine and stretched.

    T - Rest - felt sore in the shoulders, but still should have done some S&C; ended up 5 pints deep and eating curry at midnight with El Bailos.

    F - Lightweights shouldn't drink on a school night! 20 mile road bike to clear my head after work.

    S - Drove to Malham; climbed everything. Drove to Kilnsey; climbed everything. Drove to Stockport; progressive an-cap and then some bouldering followed by S&C.

    S - Weather still foul. DIY/gardening. Tested max finger strength on 25mm BM2K slots; -2kg = 97%. Fingerboard 1; 5 sets & max 15 pull-ups. S&C. Pecs, lats and serratus sore this morning; DOMS o’clock!
     Joyce 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Morning Campers,

    Ta muchly there Monsieur le Nick!

    Training Diary WC 23/03/15
    An-Cap Training Week 1/2

    Monday – Rest – tired after a busy weekend.
    Tuesday – Running intervals: 10 x 400m intervals in 84s each w/ 1min rest. On time or faster throughout. Really stoked with this as wasn’t really expecting much.

    Wednesday –Ace session with Ross at TCA. We accidentally did 3 hours worth but managed to smash out a ‘hard’ yellow (6C ish) then sent the crimpy black on the 45’ panel (Tom reckons 7A+) before putting in a fair showing on some other blacks (hardest circuit). Then it was 40 mins of An Cap on the circuit boards going from F7a down to F5 over 40 mins with a 1:1 climb:rest ratio (mostly 1min on). Press ups and that to finish.
    Thursday – Huntsham. Warmed up and felt great, friction was great. Mucked about on the span move for Ames High (which is indeed high and a tad committing – done it before but not on for it tonight) before trying some more 1:1 An Cap intervals on Ames Low etc. Felt spanked and just knackered from last night, not pumped, just tired (mostly 50s on, 50s off). Binned it after 20mins. In retrospect, I played it wrong this evening; I should’ve rested tonight and squeezed an early session in tomorrow – live and learn.
    Friday – Rest.

    Saturday – Running intervals: 14 x 400m intervals in 84s each w/ 1min rest. On time or faster throughout.
    Sunday – TCA. Ticked a couple more yellows (2nd hardest circuit) and completed a 40min An Cap interval session with Tom on the steep circuit board – one on, one off. Managed 2 reps of the 6c+ circuit (almost a 3rd) before settling for the juggy 6a jibberjobber. Tired at the end but not super pumped. Tom showed me some good exercises that’ll strengthen my (virtually non-existent) control muscles that rattle over the back of my shoulder blades. Manly dismantling of ‘stuff’ in the garden in the afternoon.
    Weight = 72.2kg

    Right then, goals:

    STG (by Easter):
    Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both).
    Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power
    Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far.
    Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness

    MTG (by end of September)
    The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
    The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
    7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
    Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone

    LTG (by end of next winter)
    Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
    Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
    Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them!

    Dream Climbs
    The Nose (El Cap)
    Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
    Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.

    Love from,
    Joyce,
    XXXX

     Ian Rock 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Cheers Nick, good advice, I'm finding it easier to go through the training motions rather than anything overly constructive atm.

    Not really sure it counts as training but I've been adding 50ish mins of walking to my weekdays by getting out at lunchtime instead of sitting at my desk. Managing over 25km a week.

    M - Cycle commute. Evening run - 7.8km @ 80% of max heart rate.
    T - CC. Climbing routes - mainly easy stuff that I'd done before.
    W - CC. Rest / walk.
    T - CC. Indoor routes. Managed to tick a couple more pesky 5+'s that had alluded me previously. Realised that a lot of the reason I was still struggling on them was cos I was letting myself get pumped in anticipation of the moves I kept getting stuck on previously. Relaxed, concentrated on the basics and seemed to just walk through the crux with no probs!
    F - CC. OH's birthday - ate shed loads of decent grilled meats and salads!
    S - Long walk with the dog.
    S - Indoor routes. Started as a relaxed affair whilst introducing a new bod to climbing. Then a lad proper decked out leading on the comp wall from 6 / 7 clips up. Thankfully he was fine and even got up and carried on, but I think it shot the confidence of our newby and a few others around the wall.
     Ian Rock 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to mrchewy:

    "Was gonna do a aerocap recovery session but the place was just fumes, so just belayed."

    Don't think I'd fancy doing an aero session either with those fumes, but I've actually found the way to avoid the stink is to work on crux's above 4 clips up. The fumes seem to fall to the floor.

    Incidentally, to those that might be interested, these are the caving systems that are being installed behind the walls at Pinnacle. http://www.hangfastclimbing.co.uk/projects/artificial-caving-systems/
    They look kinda cool if you like this sort of thing (I get a bit claustrophobic myself).
     Dandan 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Cheers for the nod to the Alex Barrows doco, I'd forgotten that it contained tapering info.


    > S - Drove to Malham; climbed everything. Drove to Kilnsey; climbed everything. Drove to Stockport; progressive an-cap and then some bouldering followed by S&C.

    Also, this ^ is madness. (I'm mostly just jealous)
     Ally Smith 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Yeah, we climbed everything that was dry at Malham and Kilnsey, i.e. nothing, then went home again, via wall session.
     Ally Smith 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Joyce:



    > Then it was 40 mins of An Cap on the circuit boards going from F7a down to F5 over 40 mins with a 1:1 climb:rest ratio (mostly 1min on). Press ups and that to finish.

    This is nowhere near an an-cap training regime; just 'cos you feel powered out at the end of the session doesn't mean it's an an-cap workout (you were probably just knackered/lacking local glycogen supplies)

    For an-cap training, work:rest should be in roughly 1:4 or 1:3 ratio, and you should be pulling hard, not p*ssing about on F5 jugs.
     mrchewy 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Ian Rock:

    Upstairs is open from now on. However, nothing hard at all has been set up there but it'll do for arc/aerocap. At least it won't stink.


     mrchewy 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Joyce:

    Following on from Ally's comment - the grades may be different to what I'd use but 1 on 1 off and 40 minutes sounds very much an aerocap session, even if it was a tough one.
    Ancap for me is 30sec on 90sec off on the littlest campus rail.
     hms 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Ian Rock:

    I know what you mean about confidence. A couple of years ago we were at the wall when somone fell from about half way up. Their belayer just stood there - he appeared to have mentally switched off so completely that it was only the sickening thump of his climber decking out at his feet that woke him up. It was a bizarre & terrifying thing to witness. Thankfully the sprung floor did its job and the climber, although highly dazed, escaped any serious injury. I assume he never climbed with that partner ever again!
     Ally Smith 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to hms:

    Yeah - I've heard a few tales about how the springy UCR floor has saved a few folks legs!

    On a similar note, i got dropped nearly the whole height of GO wall (lower tier) by Paz when he thought i said slack instead of take! I only climb with him armed with a grigri after that...
     hms 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    my husband is known to shout down 'take in the slack'. Add a bit of background noise and I've no idea what I'm supposed to do!
     Joyce 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Morning Campers,

    Thanks for the an cap/aero cap mix up advice there team. I must admit that, as I flailed around on the orange buckets on Sunday on about half an hour, my main though was, not quite sure what this doing to help me hold them thar pockets crimps and slopers on the Slug? Now you've answered my question, I'll change my routine and give it the news on something a fair whack harder.

    Ta muchly.

    Love from,
    Joyce,
    XXXX
     AJM 30 Mar 2015
    In reply to Joyce:

    Harder problems, longer rests, utter power out! Hope it works.

    Going to have to go up to visit the inlaws in Brum not long after we get back so might have an opportunity to squeeze a Huntsham session in on the way past, although I suspect I'll no longer have Ames Low quite as wired as when I was trying Low Blow so it might be quite dispiriting.

    Once I can do a proper AnCap session on Ames Low itself, that's when I'll know I've made a step change since those heady days in late 2013.....
     Humperdink 31 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Cheers Nick! Well done on the job and another vote for get your thesis done before starting the job, doing both is a nightmare - believe me!

    Goals Jan-Mar: 1) Top 40 at South of England XC (tick) 2) Top 75 at National XC (tick), 3) Top 75 at Intercounties XC (tick), 4) Sub-70 half marathon (tick)

    Not too much to report this week:

    M: rest
    Tu: rest
    W: rest (but up at 4am to fly to Germany for work)
    Th: rest (fly back)
    F: up at 5am to drive to Sheffield for the day, pm - 32:30 easy 4/5M
    Sa: pm - 20mins easy + strides
    Su: South of England 12 stage road relays. Awful conditions for this, very windy with showers and a hilly course meant it was tough (not sure I'd really recovered from the half either). I was on leg 11 (7.76K) for the A team and had to run solo as we were around 1min behind the team in front (5th) and well ahead of 7th. Went off a bit too hard but managed to catch the team in front with about a mile to go and give our leg 12 runner 15seconds advantage (which we lost and finished 5th in the end). My time was a bit disappointing 25:03 for the 7.76K and 40th fastest on the day but it was 10secs quicker than last year which was much easier conditions. 10/11M total

    18M total and an ok race. Now need to plan out the next 3-5 months of races and goals.
     mbh 31 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    20+ years ago, I was also writing up a PhD out of Bristol U. Physics Dept. I had a job lined up and had to get the thesis done to get the job. I didn't think it would ever end, but it did when I got to the point of abandonment, and off I went to the job.
    OP Nick Russell 31 Mar 2015
    In reply to mbh:

    I'm not sure whether I should interpret that as a positive or negative experience... but thanks for the comment! I remember you mentioned before that you'd done a PhD here. Maybe I should look up your thesis in the library...
     mbh 31 Mar 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Positive Nick, because although it was tough and lonely to write up, it did come to an end, and the next stage did happen, and so it will for you! June 1992, if you look it up.
     Joyce 31 Mar 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    Morning Campers,

    Right then, following the advice of Ally, Mr Chewy and yer good self, I pottered down to Bloc today and did what might be closer to a PE session. I got on the harderst (7c) circuit and did an hour of 1:3 clambering to resting. Most clambering bouts consisted of 45 to 60 seconds. The wall overhangs by about 20' and the circuit was basically a series of stacked crimpy boulder problems. Most goes, I was doing 10 or more quite difficult moves before I'd fall off at a tricky move (hadn't tried any of it before so was working it out as I went - but always did moves into the tricky bits so I'd still get a reasonable number of moves in per go).

    It was definitely much harder work than Sunday's effort but I still managed to stay on for similar amounts of time each go (wall was less steep though, but holds were much smaller). I didn't feel completely spent afterwards so did some feet on lock offs on the small campus rail (2 sets going up to 4 each side, then 3 sets going up to 5 each side). I finished myself off with some Frenchies - which were right proper hard work.

    Is this more along the right lines or do I need to go burlier, steeper, less technical, hang on for longer and smash more out per go (bear in mind that my project is 8a)?

    All help appreciated.

    Love from,
    Joyce,
    XXXX
    Andy Gamisou 01 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    Thanks for doing this again this week Nick.

    M - Resting.
    T - Fingerboard session. Still seeing real gains here. 30 mins run.
    W - Resting.
    T - Outside working on project (after suitable warm up). Good progress - 3 times climbed straight up to 6th bolt. Figured out a couple of better sequences too. Area between next two bolts is the red-point crux. I expect to need to get generally lighter and fitter to this, so might try working the easier final 10m bit until this happens. Also crux has minor disadvantage in that it passes within 6ft of an active beehive, and the colony are already showing interest in my lower down antics.
    F - Resting.
    S - Fingerboard session - the best yet.
    S - Resting.

    Updated goals:
    Stg (end Apr) - weight 11st or less
    Mtg ( end May) - improved cardio fitness, weight down to under 10st 10.
    Ltg (end of year) - red-point the project (7c)
     AJM 01 Apr 2015
    In reply to Joyce:

    20 degrees sounds about right for the slug? Depends if the movement style is similar though

    My guess it that it sounds reasonably good but see how you go on it a second time when you know the sequences better - you should be able to up the intensity as you get to know the wall better. I'd usually class an AnCap workout as debilitating - I've failed to do sets of wide grip pullups afterwards! 12-15 moves is what the usual proscription is so aim for a few more moves as you know the sequences better.

    Defer to Ally for other views though...

    Have you been on redpoints on the link yet? Where are you getting to? Given that you've done 7c+ already, in a similar style (low Blow - V7 into V5), I don't reckon that much extra focus should be needed to make it go....

     Ally Smith 01 Apr 2015
    In reply to Joyce:

    Specificity is key; how hard is your project? What angle is it? How big, and what style are the holds? Crimpers, pockets, jugs?

    Train on the same angle if possible and use similar sized holds. If you want absolute specificity, train on the route/problem itself.

    Last year, i was doing a fair chunk of my an-cap training in parisella's cave; using 15 move, 7B-ish sections of longer link-ups, and doing timed reps to keep in the an-cap training regime. This worked a treat when i then started RP'ing Hatch Life High, both from the specificity of the training, and the familiarity of the moves.

    In general, i'd say 10 moves is too short for an-cap, and keeping going for an hour shows it was too easy too. Like AJM says, an-cap training is brutal when done at the correct intensity; I can barely do aero-cap at 6c/+ after powering out in an an-cap, where as 10min at 7a/+ would be fine from fresh.
     AJM 01 Apr 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    The project, based on his goals, is the loop on the sliced slug at huntsham which is given french 8a and consist of Ames high (V7) which finishes at a shakeout on a massive sidepull flake but with poor feet, into a reverse of Ames Low (V7).

    Both problems are about 15 moves long.

    I assume you might be familiar with the boulder but if not its probably about 20 degrees over, a bit more perhaps, and the two problems are traverses along it. Holds are fairly varied but edges (or pockets which are taken as edges) and pockets mostly.

    Given that both problems are effectively AnCap length already, you can't really do chunks of them in quite the same way although you could try doing training sessions of 1:4 work:rest (to allow for the higher difficulty) doing Ames High then Ames Low alternating, and seeing how many you can do before total failure?
     hms 01 Apr 2015
    In reply to Joyce:

    I'd be keen for a session at Huntsham. I need to try Golden Bicep having failed dismally 18 months ago, and apparently I have to have another play on Aims Low. And I'd be able to supply a large bouldering mat and lots of encouragement! Wondered if Sunday or Monday might be any good? Drop me a mail via UKC if you'd like to discuss.
     biscuit 01 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    Cheers muchly Nick.

    Training was average this week.

    One auto belay session. My intention was to warm up doubling all the routes up to 6b+ on both. Someone was on the other so I stupidly jumped from 6a to 7a. First set went ok with a triple and felt I could have done more. I then didn't recover at all with my left arm being the worst. I managed a double on the other 7a but it went rapidly downhill from there. I was aiming for 3x3 on the 7as so sabotaged myself really.

    Had a lead session next day with a new partner. I know they're totally safe but I never go all out with a new belayer. Not a bad session and I've picked a 7b+ as my new target. Lovely pumpy, crossover, start into a crimpy half and a huge gaston rockover to finish. Had one go at it, got all the moves so it's game on!

    I feel I need a target to train for. It'll be Kilnsey season by the time I get out so something there. I'd like to finish 50 for 5 ( but that can take longer than you think), The Ashes is there as a classic but then so is Comedy. Very different routes. I need to have a think.
     Roadrunner5 02 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    Posting again as according to UKC I contribute nothing.... never have....

    M 11.2 steady 7:10 on trails... Got home wife wanted more so another 5.. 16 for the day
    T 14 miles, with 5 by 1 mile ay 5:20 pace, 1 min recov, 3 x 200s hard 2--s easy
    W 10 miles over two runs
    T 20.3 miles 6:50 pace, pr for route hard day
    F 5.2 easy coaching
    S am 5 miles 7:15 pace. pm: 5 miles 7:15 pace
    S: Philly Love Run 1:16:50. 6th 8000 runners, Tough winds, hills, nice sub MP work out. 5:50 pace. + 2 mile warm up. 1 mile cool down. 3 mile run pm pre stretch. 19 miles for the day.

    93 mile week. Nice few work outs.

    3 weeks til Boston...

    NTR for GB team for World Trails so that is the focus...

    NTR = Non Travelling Reserve.. i..e. mascott..

    One day I'll be a Sir Chasm...
    Post edited at 05:12
     mrchewy 02 Apr 2015
    In reply to Roadrunner5:

    NTR = still get the tracksuit...

    Welcome back fella.
     Spengler 02 Apr 2015
    In reply to Nick Russell:
    Thanks Nick.

    Indoor pass has expired, so full time outdoors from now on. Time to update the goals I think with some general aims for the summer. Let's hope the forecast improves for the long weekend. Is anyone planning on getting out in North Wales?

    STG (By May 2015)
    • 8 x HVS
    • RP 7a
    • Onsight 6c

    MTG (End of 2015)
    • Sport Pyramid - 12 x 6c+, 6 x 7a, 2 x 7a+
    • Trad Pyramid - 40 x HVS, 20 x E1, 1 x E2

    Last week:
    Finally got a 7a onsight at the wall, just in time. A mini outdoor session on Saturday, so nice to be out on rock. I feel like my technique has improved a lot over the winter season in regards to putting weight through my feet. I just need to translate that to outdoors now, where it's not so obvious in regards to the move.

    M - Rest
    T - Wall. Bouldering. Up to v5ish. Did the first 2 moves on a V8, which isn't much, but a high point for me
    W - Wall. Onsighting routes session up to 6c.
    T - Rest
    F - Rest
    S - Outdoors, did a couple of 6b retro flash warm ups. Then started working on a 7a, before the rain and the wind started, and we bailed. 7a felt doable, one tough section with really painful pockets, taped up it might be okay.
    S - Wall routes session. 7a onsight! Finally.
    Post edited at 09:13
     Ally Smith 02 Apr 2015
    In reply to biscuit:

    > One auto belay session. My intention was to warm up doubling all the routes up to 6b+ on both. Someone was on the other so I stupidly jumped from 6a to 7a. First set went ok with a triple and felt I could have done more. I then didn't recover at all with my left arm being the worst. I managed a double on the other 7a but it went rapidly downhill from there. I was aiming for 3x3 on the 7as so sabotaged myself really.

    Yep - sabotaged your warm-up there; first pump is always the worst, but at least you know why you c0cked up.

    > Had a lead session next day with a new partner. I know they're totally safe but I never go all out with a new belayer. Not a bad session and I've picked a 7b+ as my new target. Lovely pumpy, crossover, start into a crimpy half and a huge gaston rockover to finish. Had one go at it, got all the moves so it's game on!

    And miles easy than the red "7b" on the same section of wall - Am i correct in thinking no one apart from the setter has even done the moves on the arete? 8b?

    > I feel I need a target to train for. It'll be Kilnsey season by the time I get out so something there. I'd like to finish 50 for 5 ( but that can take longer than you think), The Ashes is there as a classic but then so is Comedy. Very different routes. I need to have a think.

    I mentioned specificity earlier in this thread; trundling up the auto-belay is unlikely to give you the fitness you need for:
    - 50 for 5; think this lures people in because the majority of the route is steady climbing up to the boulder problem finish. You could create an easy circuit on the board, then finish up a mimic of the heel hook finish?
    - The Ashes; longer than any of the AWCC Stockport walls, but at least the angle is about right. You could train doubles on your current 7b+ target to get the required fitness? At least you'll have a willing belayer in Tyler. (Auto-belay fitness would probably carry over best to this objective)
    - Comedy; easiest to train for indoor IMHO. If you've got the power to do the opening moves, you should be able to muster the aero-power (long PE in old speak) to finish it. An-cap and circuits on the steep bouldering should see you reet.
     Ally Smith 02 Apr 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    > The project, based on his goals, is the loop on the sliced slug at huntsham which is given french 8a and consist of Ames high (V7) which finishes at a shakeout on a massive sidepull flake but with poor feet, into a reverse of Ames Low (V7).

    > Both problems are about 15 moves long.

    Hence, i stand by my original comments that doing the opening 10 moves of a 7c circuit isn't intense enough.

    Try these for an-cap training:
    - 15 moves of the 7c circuit; no shakes on any jugs to maintain difficulty. 4 reps, 2.5min rest. Repeat 3 times with 10min rest between sets. You should feel knackered! If not, try it on the first 15 moves of the 8a circuit (so long as there's no obvious cruxes to deal with)
    - Outdoor session; ames high, 3min rest, ames low (reverse) 3min rest, twice. 10min rest, repeat 3 times.

    Longer rests outside, as you'll probably be sprinting the indoor version, whilst the outdoor one requires more "footsie" sequences at a guess.

     mattrm 02 Apr 2015
    In reply to Roadrunner5:

    Good to see you back. FC isn't the same with out you.
    Any of the Bristol crowd going to be at TCA this afternoon or early evening?

    If you are, please feel free to say hello, I'll be around from 2pm onwards and have on a bright blue DMM T-shirt and the ubiquitous black softshell trousers.
     biscuit 02 Apr 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Cheers Ally. Top tips there. I did indeed get sucked in on 50 for 5 myself, but would like to go back and finish it.

    Comedy i did the opening moves last year, but it's very different to anything i've done before.

    The Ashes is iconic and looks awesome. Never been on it but really want to do it.

    I do mostly doubles (when training) and The Ashes would be the goal for the season, so i guess that would be best to go for and then have some fun on Comedy when i get it. 50 for 5 i like as a warm up, until the boulder problem. I may leave it at that and then try and get it ticked one day when i feel good.

    Decision made! Cheers

    The evil red 7b has now been climbed by numerous people. They're not 8b climbers but they are indoor 'specialists' rather than outdoor climbers. It seems to make a difference on routes of that style. To be honest the pink 7b+ i'm trying is more like a 7b and the red one is 7b+/c, probably. But who knows ?

     Joyce 04 Apr 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    Morning Campers,

    Thanks for the An Cap advice. After carefully monitoring the ever drying car park conditions at work on Thursday morning, I chanced a Slug session and it paid off, dry as you like.

    Unfortunately Ally's latest advice arrived shortly after I'd last checked on here so I missed it (sounds 'ard though) so I did reps of Ames High or Ames Low (reversed) at 1:3 climb:rest. I did 8 reps all in and all but two were 15 moves (slipped off on the two). I tried hard. At the end, I didn't feel pumped silly but couldn't hold on for more than a few moves as everything from my fingers to my core felt like it had put some effort in. Interestingly, I struggled to get past 15 moves on both because, on Ames High you hit the crux span sequence which is high and scary or the gaston-y crux of Ames Low. I feel like more practice on the problems will get me cruising through those sections again - it's been almost a year since I put some serious time in on this type of longer PE problems.

    I'll try Ally's plan tomorrow and report back from a crumpled heap at the bottom of The Slug.

    Love from,
    Joyce,
    Xxxx
     AJM 04 Apr 2015
    In reply to Joyce:

    "Powered out" rather than pumped is the goal, and it sounds like you were pretty broken at the end, so intensity wise that sounds pretty good to me...
    In reply to Nick Russell: Just a quick post to say it was really good to finally meet you at TCA on Thursday.

    It turned into a pretty decent session - 6hours including a few long rests and 28/33 yellows ticked. I felt properly trashed yesterday though...

    Thanks again for the good work keeping the thread going and hopefully see you around outdoors at some point in the next couple of months

    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Thanks Nick - quick check in on way back from Font which I'll update in tomorrow:

    Last week:
    3 x bouldering sessions indoors at Brookes
    Rain in font so went to Karma for a session
    Set my first 4 problems at Brookes - trying to punish the tall with lots of compression...
    Lots of driving





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