In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing the stats again Nick - lots of keen people coming out the woodwork now spring has sprung!
I've started to feel some strength returning this week after concentrating on stamina routes leading up to Oliana trip; still a way to go before Unjustifed is a goer?
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Table of Colours, 5.13a/b, RRG
- Climb a route in the Madness Cave, RRG; by default >5.13a.
- Check out “The Tube” 5.14a/b, RRG
- The Dark Room, 7C+/8A
- 36 Chambers, 7C
- Be Ruthless sit, 7C+
- In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Increase An-cap
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Do a foot-on lactate test – fail – outdoor campus board is saturated; will skip this now.
- Fix/sports massage on hip flexor & shoulders – fail – sports masseuse is on hols.
- Fingerboard and S&C workouts – tick - repeat this week.
- Start portion control/no biscuit diet; 76.3 kg & 6.7% BF. Aim for 75 kg next week.
- Unjustified - aim to link from 1st belay through crux.
Last week:
M - Rest. Booked flights for 5 day RRG/Bourbon trail stopover during work trip to USA
T - Needed some ticks after some demoralising sessions. Went to the cave of justice after work. Bunch of repeats up to 7C. Failed to do LWH or Beaver Cleaver though. Got spanked trying start of In Life/In Heaven. Needed video beta – I was trying the original 7C+ way!
W - Worked out a new an-cap circuit on the 45; the new board isn’t quite symmetrical; RH version definitely a notch up over LH. Then did a bunch of the blue circuit (V7/8’s) I’d not done before. Played on the dips machine and stretched.
T - Rest - felt sore in the shoulders, but still should have done some S&C; ended up 5 pints deep and eating curry at midnight with El Bailos.
F - Lightweights shouldn't drink on a school night! 20 mile road bike to clear my head after work.
S - Drove to Malham; climbed everything. Drove to Kilnsey; climbed everything. Drove to Stockport; progressive an-cap and then some bouldering followed by S&C.
S - Weather still foul. DIY/gardening. Tested max finger strength on 25mm BM2K slots; -2kg = 97%. Fingerboard 1; 5 sets & max 15 pull-ups. S&C. Pecs, lats and serratus sore this morning; DOMS o’clock!