UKC

Suggestions for nearest non-limestone trad to Somerset/Dorset

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 dereke12000 06 Apr 2015
I'm lucky enough to live just over an hour from Portland, Swanage and the Mendips (all limestone).
However the SPA assessment requires trad experience 'on a variety of rock types'.
Any suggestions for the nearest non-limestone trad climbing to the Somerset/Dorset border? The first place that came to mind is Dartmoor on granite.
Thanks in advance.

 dale1968 06 Apr 2015
In reply to dereke12000:
Haytor is the nearest and easiest to get to and some great climbs, HTH
 Iain Thow 06 Apr 2015
In reply to dereke12000:

Baggy Point isn't too far either and a very different style to both limestone and granite. Or the sandstone in the Forest of Dean?
 Gerry 06 Apr 2015
In reply to dereke12000:

Hurlestone Point is nearer, if you can cope with some loose stuff. Now at long last in a guide book; SW Climbs Vol 2
 Ian Parsons 06 Apr 2015
In reply to dereke12000, and Gerry:

Valley of Rocks, too. Non-tidal.
 Owen W-G 06 Apr 2015
Ive had a brief look at your profile and guess up to VS so I'll recommend some trips down the M5

Baggy - loads of good VS, but also a great severes in Shangra la, and the slab with Ben etc
Chudleigh has a classic polished VDiff and a good VS which I can't name
Dewerstone has one of the best HSs around and is a super crag
Dartmoor crags like hound tor, haytor
Shorn cliff is best at HVS-e2 IMo but there is certainly a good day out up to VS
Wintours surely, but someone needs to confirm
Wyndcliff
Fairy cave?
 Cheese Monkey 06 Apr 2015
In reply to Owen W-G:

Some great limestone reccomendations there!

SE Wales sandstone is alright, Winterbourne is fun. Dartmoor, culm and baggy close too and awesome
 Chris Ebbutt 07 Apr 2015
In reply to dereke12000:
How about some Torbay Dolerite?

Black Head

In situ fisherman's polypropylene hand line for access might be worth upgrading.

Have fun Chris
OP dereke12000 08 Apr 2015
In reply to dereke12000:

Many thanks for all the suggestions - Baggy Point sounds a good start, I didn't realise we had sandstone around here.

I tried the UKC advanced crag search but it only allows you to search FOR a particular rock type, not to EXCLUDE one e.g. limestone.
 Iain Peters 08 Apr 2015
In reply to dereke12000:

Remember that there is a bird ban at Baggy that extends from Scrattling Crack to Slab Cove, including Long Rock. The Promontory, Left Hand Slab, Kinkyboots etc. are not affected. The BMC RAD site has details as do the various guidebooks.
OP dereke12000 08 Apr 2015
In reply to Iain Peters:

> Remember that there is a bird ban at Baggy that extends from Scrattling Crack to Slab Cove, including Long Rock. The Promontory, Left Hand Slab, Kinkyboots etc. are not affected. The BMC RAD site has details as do the various guidebooks.

OK thanks, I'll look into that.


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