UKC

Does anyone know where I can find information about climbing in Bohuslan? From what I can find through Google, the previous guide, from 2002, is hard to obtain. A new guide is possibly in development but, as far as I can tell, isn't yet available.

I will be going to Sweden in late June and hope to have a week of climbing in Bohuslan as I've heard that the climbing is excellent. If there is no guidebook at present, is it possible to find info on climbs while out there?

Thanks for your help

In reply to El Greyo:

I've made a couple of weekend visits now. It's a great place.

The old 2002 guidebook is discontinued. There's an interim guide, which has 10 of the crags. Will keep you going for a trip as there's a lot of routes at these crags. You can pick it up locally. Details of the guide here:

http://www.klattertorpet.se/forare/

Contact them about getting a copy. First time I visited Bohuslan they very kindly left a copy outside their house and I left the cash on collection. There's a new guide coming. I think I saw a request for any final submissions last week so think it is not far off but doubt ready for your trip.

In reply to El Greyo:

Yes, when I've been lots of Swedes were really interested to see my 2002 guide! I had bought it years earlier in Stockholm but never got chance to use it for years. It is only in Swedish which I don't speak so both times I climbed there it was really helpful to have my wife who speaks Swedish there one time, and a Swedish speaking friend the other. Things like driving instructions are tricky otherwise. I think the new smaller guide might be multilingual?

My blog report http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/bohuslan-climbing-trip-repo...
There is some stuff on 27crags too e.g. https://27crags.com/crags/haller/topos

In reply to TobyA:

Nice trip report.

Yes the interim guide has bilingual information on crag details and approaches but the route descriptions are just in Swedish. Swedish to me is like mis-spelt Norwegian

I wasn't sure what to make of the grading. I climbed some easy 6s but also got nailed by some 5s. It definately felt harder in the warmer summer months the same way that gritstone can.

Campsite has moved btw. Now at the farm beneath Häller.

In reply to El Greyo:

It's brilliant, well worth a trip. I stayed with Swedish friends who knew the area well. There was a small hut about 10 mins drive NW from Haller, the bookshelf there had a copy of the guidebook - we took pics of the pages for the crags we wanted to visit. You could probably drop in for a look at it!

In the main as long as you can find the crags the routes are pretty obvious and generally very well protected. I wrote a blogpost about the area a while back: http://gwirion.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/bohuslan.html

In reply to El Greyo:

The new guide is supposedly out 'this summer' (although it was supposedly going to be last summer, so don't hold your breath) - you can keep up to date with that here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/391522367557471/
The Bohuslän Climbing Club has a hut that's pretty central and, last time I checked, cheaper than the one near Häller. You have the option of sleeping inside the hut (if it's not too busy) or camping in the garden, and there's a fully equipped kitchen, wifi, and toilets.
They also have several copies of the old guidebook there which you can look at/photograph, and there are always people around who are happy to help out with translation and route recommendations.
http://www2.idrottonline.se/BohuslansKlatterklubb-Klattring/KLUBBSTUGAN/

In reply to Big Lee and TobyA:

Thanks both. A few hours after posting and I've got answers to my questions - a great service indeed.

I'll contact http://www.klattertorpet.se/forare/ about getting the interim guide.

Thanks for your blog, Toby, it gives a good flavour of the place. I have to say, given that it's about the same latitude as Reiff, I didn't expect heat to be too much of a problem. But then I've just been to Morocco and didn't expect cold to be too much of a problem (climbing in thermals and all clothes I brought).

In reply to drysori:

Thanks drysori, nice blog with lots of useful info.

In reply to DBoothroyd:

Thanks, will check out the facebook page and the hut you recommend.

In reply to El Greyo:


Think again! In summer it can be sweltering. We were in Bohuslan last July and were seeking out the shady crags - but like everyone else who has posted we thought it was a great place. Have a good trip.

In reply to heleno:


I went in May and it was bloomin' hot! Have been in mid summer too and it was nice, although not always boiling.

In reply to El Greyo:
I've talked to the guidebook team quite a lot. They used to run a campground in the area, and are two of sweden's most accomplished trad climbers, and the small pamphlet with ten crags they released a few years ago is good, so I'm sure the guidebook is going to be great. However, I doubt the guide is going to be in the stores before October even if everything goes well. The new guidebook is going to have directions and crag descriptions in english, but route descriptions only in Swedish. (I don't think the route descriptions are necessary, the lines and quality of protection are totally obvious in general).

There is some information on http://gamlasverigeforaren.se/index.php/Bohuslän (scroll down on each crag for directions in English)

Oh, and in late June there is going to be a lot of climbers around. Stay at one of the climbers campground (Bohuslän's climbing clubs hut or The campground at Häller) and there will be plenty of people to ask.