UKC

Kazuma Watanabe has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's Eternal at Hinokage, a problem Dai estimated to be around 8C or 8C+.
Kaz says Eternal is a long boulder about, 30moves for me. It links into the stand start Yogigen, ~8B, in its own right.
He did the stand start in December and then...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69646

In reply to UKC News:

Dai seems to list Eternal as V15 on a list he recently published on his dairy.
Interesting list if you are into that sort of thing.

In reply to UKC News:

Wouldn't a 30 move problem in font get a traverse grade instead?

I noticed on indoor walls problems of that length tend to get route grades these days which seems a more appropriate way of grading to me.

In reply to UKC News:

It's an interesting question. 30 moves is quite long.
I think it's very difficult to draw an absolute line when it comes to number of moves.
In this particular case many of the moves are very small changes of hand position and intermediate holds for example, perhaps not "real" moves so to speak.
The problem is featured in the video Dai's Diaries Vol. 4.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

http://project-climbing.com/dvd4.html