In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
Some of my favourites. Apologies for the Ibero-Norwegian bias. I'm sure the best routes are found in Verdon. Or the alps. Or on the Mediterranean islands.
Sud-Est Direct (ED1) (450m, ED-, 6c>6b) On Pic du Midi d'Osseau (trad, some pitons). At times quite adventurous climbing high up in the Pyrenees. Wonderful mountain environment, very sustained over 14 pitches. Nothing really below 6a.
Alberto Rabadá o Murciana (6c) (290m, TD, 6c>6a) in Riglos, on El Pison. (Though the crux pitch is >7a imho). (Sport, small rack helpful on first pitch). Most exposed 6a pitches I ever done. Found the 6c pitch ridiculously hard though, (maybe it was the sun?) Apart from the first pitch, excellent climbing through.
Vestveggen (n6+)/
Vesteggen (n6) combo on Stetind (600m, TD+, 6b+>5b) (trad). A long route with some pieces of tricky route-finding on Vesteggen. Uniformly good climbing, but not terribly sustained.
Den Franske Pillaren (n6+)/
The Next Best Thing (n6+) (trad, probably more or less the same route) (300m, TD, 6b>5c). Amazing rock in an amazing setting. Better than almost everything else in Lofoten (and I've climbed way too many of the routes there.)
Korstoget / Reisen (n7) (400m, TD+, 6c+>6b), but finish as “Himmlen kan vänta” to keep it within the 6c threshold) Second best route on the wall. I'm sure enough people will mention the best route on the wall...
Rabada-Navarro (6c) (750m TD+, 6c+>6b, trad with plenty of bolts/threads) Another one that doesn't quite manage the 6c cut, but the 6c+ part is one-and-a half move protected by a shiny bolt and easily frigged.) Major route on a major wall. Very good limestone all the way.
Ikaros (n7-) (300m, 6c>6a, trad). A really excellent crack climb on superb rock, mostly around 6a/b, with a spectacular 6c pitch of excellent crack climbing high up. The perfect stepping stone to
Thanatos (n7+)