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This sort of worked for some months last autumn so lets see if we can get going again now spring is definitely here. Trip reports! Route chat! Sneaky requests for beta for things you've failed on! Basically - what climbing got done this weekend?
I can start as I don't think I'll be going out today; so Friday Stanage, a beautiful evening and very quiet. Windy and cold down in Plantation car park waiting for Tom to arrive but sheltered up at the cliff and pleasant weather. I wanted to do Count's Crack (VS 4c), which went quite smoothly. Very reminiscent of Thrug (VS 5a) at the Roaches I thought. I also led Fern Crack (VS 5a) although by failing to actually read the guidebook before setting off, I got to the top thinking I was meant to go right to finish up the short wide green crack. Why I missed the clean, slightly worn and obvious path leftwards to the arete I don't know, but anyway, I've proven you can go right as well at about the same grade, it's just totally unpleasant and grubby! Enjoyed seconding Tom up Count's Wall and Wall End Slab too.
Saturday I took my kids out to see some lambs and enjoy the sunshine. We went to Tegness Quarries to climb the pinnacle. My just-11 yr old seconded my up the original route which is actually a bit reachy if you're not full size! I bribed my 9 yr old to be photographer as he didn't want to climb. I did Pisa afterwards as well https://twitter.com/TobyinHelsinki/status/589475510868176897/photo/1 which is bizarrely graded going from HS 4a in the BMC guide to HVS 5b in the Rockfax!? I reckoned something 4c for how I did it. The family refused to come for a walk in the evening, so I went to Burbage on my own for another easy(ish) route soloing binge on the rock going gold in the sunset https://instagram.com/p/1oS3C0LvCY/
I can start as I don't think I'll be going out today; so Friday Stanage, a beautiful evening and very quiet. Windy and cold down in Plantation car park waiting for Tom to arrive but sheltered up at the cliff and pleasant weather. I wanted to do Count's Crack (VS 4c), which went quite smoothly. Very reminiscent of Thrug (VS 5a) at the Roaches I thought. I also led Fern Crack (VS 5a) although by failing to actually read the guidebook before setting off, I got to the top thinking I was meant to go right to finish up the short wide green crack. Why I missed the clean, slightly worn and obvious path leftwards to the arete I don't know, but anyway, I've proven you can go right as well at about the same grade, it's just totally unpleasant and grubby! Enjoyed seconding Tom up Count's Wall and Wall End Slab too.
Saturday I took my kids out to see some lambs and enjoy the sunshine. We went to Tegness Quarries to climb the pinnacle. My just-11 yr old seconded my up the original route which is actually a bit reachy if you're not full size! I bribed my 9 yr old to be photographer as he didn't want to climb. I did Pisa afterwards as well https://twitter.com/TobyinHelsinki/status/589475510868176897/photo/1 which is bizarrely graded going from HS 4a in the BMC guide to HVS 5b in the Rockfax!? I reckoned something 4c for how I did it. The family refused to come for a walk in the evening, so I went to Burbage on my own for another easy(ish) route soloing binge on the rock going gold in the sunset https://instagram.com/p/1oS3C0LvCY/
In reply to TobyA:
First four routes of the season. Stanage Popular for 9.15ish, Heather wall, Eliminator, Central Trinity and the Flange. A quick solo of Via Media then back to the car for 11.30 and off home.
Was great to actually climb routes and I'd forgotten how enjoyable (and forgiving) Stanage climbing is.
Roll in the next opportunity to get out....
First four routes of the season. Stanage Popular for 9.15ish, Heather wall, Eliminator, Central Trinity and the Flange. A quick solo of Via Media then back to the car for 11.30 and off home.
Was great to actually climb routes and I'd forgotten how enjoyable (and forgiving) Stanage climbing is.
Roll in the next opportunity to get out....
1
In reply to TobyA:
Just lying in bed wondering whether I can face another long route on the north side of Tahquitz today.
From the aches and bruises from yesterday, I'm thinking probably not!
Just lying in bed wondering whether I can face another long route on the north side of Tahquitz today.
From the aches and bruises from yesterday, I'm thinking probably not!
1
In reply to TobyA:
Have climbed stairs four times and done a fingerboard session and have also climbed in and out of the shower. Weather is perfect and I know that lots of friends have been getting out. I am recovering from distal fractures of tibia and fibula and the subsequent 15 screws and two plates which are now holding my leg together. Hi jacking slightly I wonder if anyone on here has experienced a similar injury and what the time frame for recovery was.
Wish I could get out!
James
Have climbed stairs four times and done a fingerboard session and have also climbed in and out of the shower. Weather is perfect and I know that lots of friends have been getting out. I am recovering from distal fractures of tibia and fibula and the subsequent 15 screws and two plates which are now holding my leg together. Hi jacking slightly I wonder if anyone on here has experienced a similar injury and what the time frame for recovery was.
Wish I could get out!
James
2
In reply to TobyA:
Second session on The Spider (8a) at Chee Dale. Got the crux beta figured out and managed it in isolation three times. Next session will be refining the top section and then it'll be redpoint attempts...
Second session on The Spider (8a) at Chee Dale. Got the crux beta figured out and managed it in isolation three times. Next session will be refining the top section and then it'll be redpoint attempts...
2
In reply to TobyA:
After dying of man flu on Thursday I managed to get out Friday, Saturday, Sunday for a pretty varied weekend.
After talking about it for the last couple of years, a friend and I went to do the night watch, prompted by the discussions on here after the BBC show. To those who say it's the best VS in the country, you're wrong. I will however concede that it's better than it looks. Followed this up with some nice soloing at the lovely little park nab.
Saturday was a trip down to Almscliff with the girlfriend. Half a day pottering around on lower man, followed by eventually getting pebble wall after some helpful beta from a local lad. My hardest problem I'd climbed at V5.
Today was spent hanging out at the bowderstone. And generally mooching around in Borrowdale. Got picnic sarcastic, now my hardest problem climbed at V7.
All in all a pretty good, varied weekend. Thanks for starting the thread, I was thinking of starting one myself. Looking forward to hearing what everyone else has been up to.
After dying of man flu on Thursday I managed to get out Friday, Saturday, Sunday for a pretty varied weekend.
After talking about it for the last couple of years, a friend and I went to do the night watch, prompted by the discussions on here after the BBC show. To those who say it's the best VS in the country, you're wrong. I will however concede that it's better than it looks. Followed this up with some nice soloing at the lovely little park nab.
Saturday was a trip down to Almscliff with the girlfriend. Half a day pottering around on lower man, followed by eventually getting pebble wall after some helpful beta from a local lad. My hardest problem I'd climbed at V5.
Today was spent hanging out at the bowderstone. And generally mooching around in Borrowdale. Got picnic sarcastic, now my hardest problem climbed at V7.
All in all a pretty good, varied weekend. Thanks for starting the thread, I was thinking of starting one myself. Looking forward to hearing what everyone else has been up to.
In reply to TobyA:
Thanks for starting the thread - it's always good to hear what people have been climbing
I've got a knackered pulley at the moment so it was a quiet one for me. Went to Stanage yesterday and just did a handful of super easy routes. Finger started twinging a bit by the fourth route so I spent the rest of the day basking in the sun and reading. It was nice to be out (better than sitting at home being grumpy) but it's frustrating to waste a glorious weekend unable to climb properly.
Thanks for starting the thread - it's always good to hear what people have been climbing
I've got a knackered pulley at the moment so it was a quiet one for me. Went to Stanage yesterday and just did a handful of super easy routes. Finger started twinging a bit by the fourth route so I spent the rest of the day basking in the sun and reading. It was nice to be out (better than sitting at home being grumpy) but it's frustrating to waste a glorious weekend unable to climb properly.
In reply to TobyA:
Amongst others.
The asp at stanage on sight. Thought it was easier than I expected.
Tried Quietus at stanage and got battered. Thought it was harder than expected. God knows where the actual route goes as there are 3 in the logbooks.
Beautiful day sat. Still nice today. Nice to get out.
Kev.
Amongst others.
The asp at stanage on sight. Thought it was easier than I expected.
Tried Quietus at stanage and got battered. Thought it was harder than expected. God knows where the actual route goes as there are 3 in the logbooks.
Beautiful day sat. Still nice today. Nice to get out.
Kev.
In reply to TobyA:
Lovely evening pottering after work on Stanage yesterday. I did fall off, but I was only 2ft up so that didn't matter - apart from that little hitch I was climbing confidently for the first time this year, conditions lovely and a nice sunset. Did a few of my favourite routes for the first time this year, many more such evenings to come.
Down in Staffs today with a rope on for the first time this year. Those HVSs don't get any easier... Didn't lead anything (not unusual when I go out on grit since I'm normally with someone who hasn't done all the classics before) but did some good bouldering.
Couldn't do this one though: Starlight and Storm (f6C+), wanted to top out after the LH version but couldn't see the move at all. It'll still be there next time, but unfortunately it will still be just as hard.
Love the grit in spring: perfect cool conditions, no midges, long days, perfect.
Lovely evening pottering after work on Stanage yesterday. I did fall off, but I was only 2ft up so that didn't matter - apart from that little hitch I was climbing confidently for the first time this year, conditions lovely and a nice sunset. Did a few of my favourite routes for the first time this year, many more such evenings to come.
Down in Staffs today with a rope on for the first time this year. Those HVSs don't get any easier... Didn't lead anything (not unusual when I go out on grit since I'm normally with someone who hasn't done all the classics before) but did some good bouldering.
Couldn't do this one though: Starlight and Storm (f6C+), wanted to top out after the LH version but couldn't see the move at all. It'll still be there next time, but unfortunately it will still be just as hard.
Love the grit in spring: perfect cool conditions, no midges, long days, perfect.
In reply to TobyA:
Nothing on Saturday as too busy with other things, but got out for a few first ascents this afternoon on the local crag 10 minutes walk from our home in Ariège I've been bolting whenever I have a few hours to spare - which isn't often, which is why it's taking months.
The 30m 6a was great, and has a hand jamming crux to stymie the locals
The 15m presumed 6c+ turned out to be a fingery and pumpy 7a, possibly harder until the holds get chalked up and a bit of residual looseness sorts itself out.
The 30m presumed 7b+ was a battle. Only got 2/3 of the way up and had to dog the rest. Brilliant sustained technical climbing on holds that are invisible from below but still a bit snappy so a *** 7c+ I'll definitely have to redpoint.
Fun fun.
Nothing on Saturday as too busy with other things, but got out for a few first ascents this afternoon on the local crag 10 minutes walk from our home in Ariège I've been bolting whenever I have a few hours to spare - which isn't often, which is why it's taking months.
The 30m 6a was great, and has a hand jamming crux to stymie the locals
The 15m presumed 6c+ turned out to be a fingery and pumpy 7a, possibly harder until the holds get chalked up and a bit of residual looseness sorts itself out.
The 30m presumed 7b+ was a battle. Only got 2/3 of the way up and had to dog the rest. Brilliant sustained technical climbing on holds that are invisible from below but still a bit snappy so a *** 7c+ I'll definitely have to redpoint.
Fun fun.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
We definitely saw some midges on Friday evening and Tegness quarry was alive with big ants!
> Love the grit in spring: perfect cool conditions, no midges, long days, perfect.
We definitely saw some midges on Friday evening and Tegness quarry was alive with big ants!
1
In reply to TobyA:
After visiting a friend in Nottingham Thursday evening, I thought I'd capitalise on being in the right area of the country, so bivied in a field in the Peak, soloed some easy stuff at Burbage North before breakfast Friday morning, had breakfast at Outside and drove back to London in time to have a nap before work.
Saturday was spent at Cheddar, which was really quite fun. I've now climbed more in 2015 in just three weeks than I did in all of 2014. Should be a good year
After visiting a friend in Nottingham Thursday evening, I thought I'd capitalise on being in the right area of the country, so bivied in a field in the Peak, soloed some easy stuff at Burbage North before breakfast Friday morning, had breakfast at Outside and drove back to London in time to have a nap before work.
Saturday was spent at Cheddar, which was really quite fun. I've now climbed more in 2015 in just three weeks than I did in all of 2014. Should be a good year
2
In reply to TobyA: Left home in Lincolnshire at 7am, drove to Holyhead picking up climbing partner on the way. 8 item breakfast at Tesco extra then headed to main cliff. Did the girdle traverse of main cliff, awesome! Then drove home, 15 hours door to door.
4
In reply to TobyA:
The wee flying things you see at this time of year aren't midges - or if they are they don't bite.
The wee flying things you see at this time of year aren't midges - or if they are they don't bite.
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Hmm, definitely look like midges! Well, we need to find a entomologist to settle this.
Hmm, definitely look like midges! Well, we need to find a entomologist to settle this.
In reply to TobyA:
Nice one for starting this again.
Friday, bouldering at burbage South, onsight for a good roof problem, Tinys roof.
Sat, discovered cratcliffe, managed 21 problems in all including a great mantle and worked hard on getting better footwork.
Today harborough rocks, Just the one route as my elbows hurt.
Bring on the light evenings and more climbing, the joys of living in sheffield now!
Nice one for starting this again.
Friday, bouldering at burbage South, onsight for a good roof problem, Tinys roof.
Sat, discovered cratcliffe, managed 21 problems in all including a great mantle and worked hard on getting better footwork.
Today harborough rocks, Just the one route as my elbows hurt.
Bring on the light evenings and more climbing, the joys of living in sheffield now!
2
In reply to TobyA:
First bit of trad for about 12 months, and first lead in 18..
All at FCQ, first time I've been there without it pissing it down as we arrive.
Seconded that one to the left of Balch's Slide, Anty Matter & Rob's Crack, onsighted Pueblo on lead. Had a go at Smell the Glove but had such stupid footcramp by the shattered hole thing I backed off.
Nothing to fancy but was a enjoyable day, being fed roast and wined as soon as we got home was the winner though.
First bit of trad for about 12 months, and first lead in 18..
All at FCQ, first time I've been there without it pissing it down as we arrive.
Seconded that one to the left of Balch's Slide, Anty Matter & Rob's Crack, onsighted Pueblo on lead. Had a go at Smell the Glove but had such stupid footcramp by the shattered hole thing I backed off.
Nothing to fancy but was a enjoyable day, being fed roast and wined as soon as we got home was the winner though.
In reply to TobyA:
Had a wonderful day on Saturday in the Slate Quarry's climbing on a delightful little slabby wall that was sheltered from the wind with a fantastic view.
Finished the day being in a very civilised manner sitting under a cloudless sky drinking good wine and nibbling on cheese with my better half before our friends returned from their day at Tremadog and the Whisky came out.
Yesterday we made a brief visit to Castle Inn on the way home and did a few routes before heading homewards once again.
Had a wonderful day on Saturday in the Slate Quarry's climbing on a delightful little slabby wall that was sheltered from the wind with a fantastic view.
Finished the day being in a very civilised manner sitting under a cloudless sky drinking good wine and nibbling on cheese with my better half before our friends returned from their day at Tremadog and the Whisky came out.
Yesterday we made a brief visit to Castle Inn on the way home and did a few routes before heading homewards once again.
In reply to TobyA:
Saturday - set up a fixed line in a quiet quarry and practiced jumaring, changing from ascent of the rope to descent and passing knots. Didn't see another soul for 3 hrs. Followed by 20 miles on the bike in the afternoon.
Sunday - Quick hr on the bike and an afternoon pint
Saturday - set up a fixed line in a quiet quarry and practiced jumaring, changing from ascent of the rope to descent and passing knots. Didn't see another soul for 3 hrs. Followed by 20 miles on the bike in the afternoon.
Sunday - Quick hr on the bike and an afternoon pint
In reply to TobyA:
I learned that I have completely forgotten how to climb grit.
A few routes at rivelin on sat, one of which I bottled despite having done it before and knowing I could get up it. Matterhorn ridge first thing sunday morning, followed by an unsuccessful day at Birchen.
If anyone was laughing at an idiot thrashing and grunting in telescope tunnel on sunday afternoon then that was me. A couple of my ribs feel a bit bruised this morning.
I learned that I have completely forgotten how to climb grit.
A few routes at rivelin on sat, one of which I bottled despite having done it before and knowing I could get up it. Matterhorn ridge first thing sunday morning, followed by an unsuccessful day at Birchen.
If anyone was laughing at an idiot thrashing and grunting in telescope tunnel on sunday afternoon then that was me. A couple of my ribs feel a bit bruised this morning.
In reply to TobyA: Cheers for the thread. Had a fantastic day on Sunday (working Saturday).
I headed to Brean Down for my first proper day of outdoor climbing of 2015. The weather was lovely and sunny and the routes in really good condition.
We warmed up and then my partner jumped straight on the 3 star classic Chulilla (7b+) and got the draws in going bolt to bolt. On my first go, I quickly got most of a sequence on the lower half but found the rest a faff and the top crux HARD. Had a quick play, found a possible option and decided not to knacker myself any further on that attempt.
Second go, I resorted to stick clipping the bolt above the crux to save energy and then worked the hard move from the upper pocket. Jamming three fingers (rather than just two) in the pocket and using a higher left foothold proved the solution. I then surprised myself and managed to link the entire top half on top-rope...
My partner struggled with his sequence and thought he had probably used up too much energy first go getting the draws in so after a long rest it was time for my first redpoint attempt.
It went! My first ever F7b+
It seems that moving to live within walking distance of a climbing wall (and 5 months of winter training) does wonders for your climbing...
I headed to Brean Down for my first proper day of outdoor climbing of 2015. The weather was lovely and sunny and the routes in really good condition.
We warmed up and then my partner jumped straight on the 3 star classic Chulilla (7b+) and got the draws in going bolt to bolt. On my first go, I quickly got most of a sequence on the lower half but found the rest a faff and the top crux HARD. Had a quick play, found a possible option and decided not to knacker myself any further on that attempt.
Second go, I resorted to stick clipping the bolt above the crux to save energy and then worked the hard move from the upper pocket. Jamming three fingers (rather than just two) in the pocket and using a higher left foothold proved the solution. I then surprised myself and managed to link the entire top half on top-rope...
My partner struggled with his sequence and thought he had probably used up too much energy first go getting the draws in so after a long rest it was time for my first redpoint attempt.
It went! My first ever F7b+
It seems that moving to live within walking distance of a climbing wall (and 5 months of winter training) does wonders for your climbing...
3
In reply to TobyA:
Obscurist Cheshire sandstone bouldering. Happy to note that the cute problem I gardened out of obscurity last year is surviving nicely and has been getting ascents.
Obscurist Cheshire sandstone bouldering. Happy to note that the cute problem I gardened out of obscurity last year is surviving nicely and has been getting ascents.
In reply to TobyA:
After 14months of torrid climbing I made a last minute jaunt to Stanage this weekend. With my mate, I seconded some harder stuff and led some climbs in my comfort zone on the Saturday. Sunday, I had a nice time on Flying Butress, seconded an E1 and then... Ryan talked me into doing a VS straight after. Who'd of thunk it! I nailed it, enjoyed it and found my long lost mojo!
Thought I would share...
After 14months of torrid climbing I made a last minute jaunt to Stanage this weekend. With my mate, I seconded some harder stuff and led some climbs in my comfort zone on the Saturday. Sunday, I had a nice time on Flying Butress, seconded an E1 and then... Ryan talked me into doing a VS straight after. Who'd of thunk it! I nailed it, enjoyed it and found my long lost mojo!
Thought I would share...
1
In reply to TobyA:
Bit of an explore at Stanage on Saturday, in an attempt to find routes I've not done before at a reasonable grade. We managed to find a couple. The 'reasonable grade' requirement was because I was saving my arms for the Sunday...
So Sunday, back at Malham on 'Free and Even Easier' which was going well until the sun properly came out and it turned into a furnace: the Catwalk would've been better equipped with sunloungers and cold beverages than hard sport routes at that point...
PP.
Bit of an explore at Stanage on Saturday, in an attempt to find routes I've not done before at a reasonable grade. We managed to find a couple. The 'reasonable grade' requirement was because I was saving my arms for the Sunday...
So Sunday, back at Malham on 'Free and Even Easier' which was going well until the sun properly came out and it turned into a furnace: the Catwalk would've been better equipped with sunloungers and cold beverages than hard sport routes at that point...
PP.
In reply to TobyA:
Saw two teams on B Buttress Dow Crag on Saturday. Lovely weather too.
Saw two teams on B Buttress Dow Crag on Saturday. Lovely weather too.
In reply to TobyA:
A very pleasant Friday evening was had soloing at Slipstones. Saturday was birthday offwidthing on Desperation Crack, Brimham. First attempt at crux soon stalled and despite expending lots of energy I slithered slowly out of the crack. Next attempt I kept the momentum going and topped out. Great fun
A very pleasant Friday evening was had soloing at Slipstones. Saturday was birthday offwidthing on Desperation Crack, Brimham. First attempt at crux soon stalled and despite expending lots of energy I slithered slowly out of the crack. Next attempt I kept the momentum going and topped out. Great fun
1
In reply to TobyA:
Stag weekend in Buxton. Somehow amongst way too much alchol managed to climb at Windgather on saturady (solos and matless bouldering) and Aldery on Sunday (showing off the new good lines in the forthcoming BMC guide).
See also: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=614110
Pisa is tough 4a similar to PMC1... Rockfax must have the wrong line.
Stag weekend in Buxton. Somehow amongst way too much alchol managed to climb at Windgather on saturady (solos and matless bouldering) and Aldery on Sunday (showing off the new good lines in the forthcoming BMC guide).
See also: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=614110
Pisa is tough 4a similar to PMC1... Rockfax must have the wrong line.
In reply to TobyA:
I had a cracker of a weekend in pembroke. The aim was to do rock idol. I am just breaking the e1 grade and have heard it's a jug fest. So we warmed up on the vs routes. But another team was on it. So I decided to have a look at something else. Herod was e1 in the guide and I love the line it took so pulled on. Did in 1 pitch and loved every min of it. I then logged on here to log the route and it gets e2. Well chuffed even if it's a soft e2. To top it off I did rock idol to finish. Also a superb route. All in all. A quality weekend.
Luke.
I had a cracker of a weekend in pembroke. The aim was to do rock idol. I am just breaking the e1 grade and have heard it's a jug fest. So we warmed up on the vs routes. But another team was on it. So I decided to have a look at something else. Herod was e1 in the guide and I love the line it took so pulled on. Did in 1 pitch and loved every min of it. I then logged on here to log the route and it gets e2. Well chuffed even if it's a soft e2. To top it off I did rock idol to finish. Also a superb route. All in all. A quality weekend.
Luke.
2
In reply to TobyA:
If you didn't get bothered they weren't midges
Great to see you're making the most of the Peak District's proximity to Sheffield by the way, it gets under your skin so you can't really imagine moving to live elsewhere...or only for something special.
I've climbed the stairs of motivation, this week/end I'm going climbing in the sunshine.
> Hmm, definitely look like midges! Well, we need to find a entomologist to settle this.
If you didn't get bothered they weren't midges
Great to see you're making the most of the Peak District's proximity to Sheffield by the way, it gets under your skin so you can't really imagine moving to live elsewhere...or only for something special.
I've climbed the stairs of motivation, this week/end I'm going climbing in the sunshine.
Post edited at 18:22
1
In reply to Offwidth:
Personally i would have thought just the first few metres before you can get a hand on the arete is harder than 4a.
> Pisa is tough 4a similar to PMC1... Rockfax must have the wrong line.
Personally i would have thought just the first few metres before you can get a hand on the arete is harder than 4a.
In reply to TobyA:
Fair enough. UKC votes genrally match my view though despite inevitable bias from the grade set (makes me wonder where the HVS 5a/Vs 4c in UKC came from in the first place).
Fair enough. UKC votes genrally match my view though despite inevitable bias from the grade set (makes me wonder where the HVS 5a/Vs 4c in UKC came from in the first place).
Post edited at 19:37
In reply to TobyA:
Not really the weekend, but here goes.
Thursday was my first time out since knackering my shoulder in November. Still waiting on a referral, but the itch to get out was too strong. Went and played one-handed climbing on the Kidney at Burbage. Sun shining, curlews sobbing, a gorgeous afternoon. I might even have taken my top off.
Messed about trying variations and eliminates, some one-handed strictly, others 'one and a half' - just no pulling with the left. Great fun. Was chuffed to manage something in between the two top cracks as a footwork problem.
Friday hooked up for some easy trad at Burbage North. Again, as one and a half-handed as possible. Lovely to get some mileage in.
Not really the weekend, but here goes.
Thursday was my first time out since knackering my shoulder in November. Still waiting on a referral, but the itch to get out was too strong. Went and played one-handed climbing on the Kidney at Burbage. Sun shining, curlews sobbing, a gorgeous afternoon. I might even have taken my top off.
Messed about trying variations and eliminates, some one-handed strictly, others 'one and a half' - just no pulling with the left. Great fun. Was chuffed to manage something in between the two top cracks as a footwork problem.
Friday hooked up for some easy trad at Burbage North. Again, as one and a half-handed as possible. Lovely to get some mileage in.
Post edited at 20:10
In reply to TobyA:
Sat - Standing Stones: Started on the 3 star routes - Fallen Heroes (E1 5b) Kremlin Wall (E1 5c) Fairy Nuff (VS 4c) Womanless Wall (VS 4c) then did Dredger (E2 6a) which was also brilliant and well protected with a number 6 cam at the niche after the bouldering start.
Sun - Woodhouse Scar: Another top day ticking Spire Buttress - Interface (E2 6a) Clingen (E2 5c) Baboon (E1 5c) Parete (HVS 5b)Spigolo (HVS 5b), finishing with a bimble up Twin Cracks (VS 4c).
Also planned on doing Nervous Shakedown, but it started to rain so we sacked it off. I guess it will still be there next time.
All in all, a very satisfactory weekend
Sat - Standing Stones: Started on the 3 star routes - Fallen Heroes (E1 5b) Kremlin Wall (E1 5c) Fairy Nuff (VS 4c) Womanless Wall (VS 4c) then did Dredger (E2 6a) which was also brilliant and well protected with a number 6 cam at the niche after the bouldering start.
Sun - Woodhouse Scar: Another top day ticking Spire Buttress - Interface (E2 6a) Clingen (E2 5c) Baboon (E1 5c) Parete (HVS 5b)Spigolo (HVS 5b), finishing with a bimble up Twin Cracks (VS 4c).
Also planned on doing Nervous Shakedown, but it started to rain so we sacked it off. I guess it will still be there next time.
All in all, a very satisfactory weekend
Post edited at 21:48
In reply to Climbster:
Good ticks and ideal days given the rock wouldnt have been too sweaty. Not seen so many ascents of Interface and its rare to see anyone else at, Standing Stones. I don't think many climbers realise how good those crags are at VS to E2.
Good ticks and ideal days given the rock wouldnt have been too sweaty. Not seen so many ascents of Interface and its rare to see anyone else at, Standing Stones. I don't think many climbers realise how good those crags are at VS to E2.
Post edited at 07:58
In reply to TobyA:
Led my 1st 6b route outside, first grade 6 of any type. Dogged it a bit but all moves were fine just my nerves above the bolts.
This could well be a good summer!
Led my 1st 6b route outside, first grade 6 of any type. Dogged it a bit but all moves were fine just my nerves above the bolts.
This could well be a good summer!
1
In reply to Jon Stewart:
The best VS and E1 climbs there are brilliant with some other very good and good climbs at the grade. The best E2s are very good and there are more good ones besides. There is also a brilliant severe (Vivian).
The best VS and E1 climbs there are brilliant with some other very good and good climbs at the grade. The best E2s are very good and there are more good ones besides. There is also a brilliant severe (Vivian).
In reply to Jon Stewart:
10mins away at Middle Edge Rocks, me and Graeme did an E2 direct on Titanic, blasting through the widest part of the roof. Short but good - if Titanic is three stars so is this. Worth a look next time you're over there
10mins away at Middle Edge Rocks, me and Graeme did an E2 direct on Titanic, blasting through the widest part of the roof. Short but good - if Titanic is three stars so is this. Worth a look next time you're over there
In reply to Offwidth:
Yes, great days out on the grit. I was pleasantly surprised to find half a dozen other climbers at both venues: positively rammed for relatively obscure crags.
And Interface was pretty steady after the bouldery start
Roll on weather wednesday and fingers crossed for next weekend.
Yes, great days out on the grit. I was pleasantly surprised to find half a dozen other climbers at both venues: positively rammed for relatively obscure crags.
And Interface was pretty steady after the bouldery start
Roll on weather wednesday and fingers crossed for next weekend.
In reply to TobyA:
Had a great weekend in Glen Etive on the Slabs and on Garbh Bheinn's South Wall - Spartan Slab, Raspberry Ripple and Butterknife. Words and photos here http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2015/04/hot-rock-on-the-etive-slabs-and-gar...
I guess lots of folk are familiar with the Etive Slabs but maybe less so with South Wall? It's a stunning 100m high cliff of perfect gneiss, tucked under the summit of Garbh Bheinn (on the Ardgour peninsular west of Loch Linnhe) and is well worth a visit!
Cheers,
Dave
Had a great weekend in Glen Etive on the Slabs and on Garbh Bheinn's South Wall - Spartan Slab, Raspberry Ripple and Butterknife. Words and photos here http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2015/04/hot-rock-on-the-etive-slabs-and-gar...
I guess lots of folk are familiar with the Etive Slabs but maybe less so with South Wall? It's a stunning 100m high cliff of perfect gneiss, tucked under the summit of Garbh Bheinn (on the Ardgour peninsular west of Loch Linnhe) and is well worth a visit!
Cheers,
Dave
1
In reply to mark20:
Come on Mark... minor elliminates getting 3 stars... really? Titanic is 2 stars anyhow.
Come on Mark... minor elliminates getting 3 stars... really? Titanic is 2 stars anyhow.
In reply to james mann:
(After seeing your fine photo) Do what the physios say - one of the most important things for skeletal injuries is to make sure that they are exposed to load. Gentle load, that is. There are 2 main reasons for this - 1. the injured tissue will repair better if it is loaded and unloaded as if there was nothing wrong with it; 2. you don't want additional injuries in non-injured tissue (your other leg and spine in this case). A third reason, of course, is to avoid loss of fitness in the injured area.
It does take a while for a complex fracture like that to get to a state where it is capable of normal function. Don't try and do too much too early, but it should be perfectly OK after a while. It looks as if you've avoided injury to the complex bits (your ankle and knee - although it is alarmingly close to your ankle). For myself, I'd rather a double fracture than a damaged ankle. Cartilage damage is a much more challenging repair proposition.
> I am recovering from distal fractures of tibia and fibula and the subsequent 15 screws and two plates which are now holding my leg together. Hi jacking slightly I wonder if anyone on here has experienced a similar injury and what the time frame for recovery was.
(After seeing your fine photo) Do what the physios say - one of the most important things for skeletal injuries is to make sure that they are exposed to load. Gentle load, that is. There are 2 main reasons for this - 1. the injured tissue will repair better if it is loaded and unloaded as if there was nothing wrong with it; 2. you don't want additional injuries in non-injured tissue (your other leg and spine in this case). A third reason, of course, is to avoid loss of fitness in the injured area.
It does take a while for a complex fracture like that to get to a state where it is capable of normal function. Don't try and do too much too early, but it should be perfectly OK after a while. It looks as if you've avoided injury to the complex bits (your ankle and knee - although it is alarmingly close to your ankle). For myself, I'd rather a double fracture than a damaged ankle. Cartilage damage is a much more challenging repair proposition.
In reply to pneame:
Thanks very much for the information. It ha been really hard to get any kind of info from any hospital staff about recovery and likely outcomes as I guess they are unwilling to commit themselves. I haven't started any physio at all yet and won't until after my next fracture clinic appointment on the 13th May. It is reassuring to have some informed opinion here.
Thanks again
James
Thanks very much for the information. It ha been really hard to get any kind of info from any hospital staff about recovery and likely outcomes as I guess they are unwilling to commit themselves. I haven't started any physio at all yet and won't until after my next fracture clinic appointment on the 13th May. It is reassuring to have some informed opinion here.
Thanks again
James
In reply to TobyA:
So who has climbed this weekend? I haven't - boo hoo - too much work. I did get out briefly Thursday evening, I took my kids to Higgar to explore the "troglodyte tour" through the cliff but also had a bit of a scamper up some of the smaller easier routes in the guide. I found myself slapping over the top of Loki (Sev. in the guidebook I had) thinking "bloomin' eck, this is a bit scary and unpositive" so carefully backed down a little to where I could jam along a crack rightwards to an easier route with more positive finishing holds. Will need to go back with a rope to do it properly sometime I guess!
So who has climbed this weekend? I haven't - boo hoo - too much work. I did get out briefly Thursday evening, I took my kids to Higgar to explore the "troglodyte tour" through the cliff but also had a bit of a scamper up some of the smaller easier routes in the guide. I found myself slapping over the top of Loki (Sev. in the guidebook I had) thinking "bloomin' eck, this is a bit scary and unpositive" so carefully backed down a little to where I could jam along a crack rightwards to an easier route with more positive finishing holds. Will need to go back with a rope to do it properly sometime I guess!
In reply to TobyA:
Burbage North for my FIRST ever (conscious) lead at HVS (I've led a couple of VSs which were subsequently upgraded, but surely you can't claim the grade without the headgame that accompanies the grading). The fact it was a one move wonder micro-route doesn't take anything away from my satisfaction, particularly when I saw plenty of others sneaking off the face to soften the crux. I'd like to say it was despatched in good style, but the reality was a disco-legged jelly flop. It's my default technique when above a certain groundfall.
Burbage North for my FIRST ever (conscious) lead at HVS (I've led a couple of VSs which were subsequently upgraded, but surely you can't claim the grade without the headgame that accompanies the grading). The fact it was a one move wonder micro-route doesn't take anything away from my satisfaction, particularly when I saw plenty of others sneaking off the face to soften the crux. I'd like to say it was despatched in good style, but the reality was a disco-legged jelly flop. It's my default technique when above a certain groundfall.
2
In reply to TobyA:
Um. Managed to have rather a successful weekend. Redpointed an old project Friday night (fifth ever F7c, so pretty pleased) then won in my age category in a local comp on Saturday.
Fortunately it was raining yesterday, otherwise I doubt I'd be able to walk today!
Um. Managed to have rather a successful weekend. Redpointed an old project Friday night (fifth ever F7c, so pretty pleased) then won in my age category in a local comp on Saturday.
Fortunately it was raining yesterday, otherwise I doubt I'd be able to walk today!
1
In reply to TobyA:
Good weekend. Got a couple of hours in at the local quarry - practicing aid hooking & top stepping on a self belay. Got rained off at lunchtime and went to the pub
Sunday did 38 miles on the bike and ate loads
Good weekend. Got a couple of hours in at the local quarry - practicing aid hooking & top stepping on a self belay. Got rained off at lunchtime and went to the pub
Sunday did 38 miles on the bike and ate loads
1
In reply to TobyA:
Running round scottish hill at the Higlander in Elphin. Bit nippy at times and challenging conditions but all good fun as ever.
Running round scottish hill at the Higlander in Elphin. Bit nippy at times and challenging conditions but all good fun as ever.
1
In reply to galpinos:
So what did everyone do this weekend? I have a uni assignment to write on top of normal work so didn't do much but I went to Stanage on my own on Friday evening a soloed a bunch of easy routes Broken Buttress (HVD 4a) being the best (and quite an exciting top out when you are on your own and haven't done it before! A very dead sheep at the bottom of buttress added a certain whiff to the climbs and reminded me of to "do nothing in haste; look well to each step".
Today my kids actually said they would prefer to go climbing rather on family bike ride (basically being lazy) so we went to Yarncliffe where my wife and I did Ant's Wall which is quite good although a bit grubby. Then we went for a walk down and up Padley Gorge below looking for bluebells (a few, but much more down in Sheffield).
So what did everyone do this weekend? I have a uni assignment to write on top of normal work so didn't do much but I went to Stanage on my own on Friday evening a soloed a bunch of easy routes Broken Buttress (HVD 4a) being the best (and quite an exciting top out when you are on your own and haven't done it before! A very dead sheep at the bottom of buttress added a certain whiff to the climbs and reminded me of to "do nothing in haste; look well to each step".
Today my kids actually said they would prefer to go climbing rather on family bike ride (basically being lazy) so we went to Yarncliffe where my wife and I did Ant's Wall which is quite good although a bit grubby. Then we went for a walk down and up Padley Gorge below looking for bluebells (a few, but much more down in Sheffield).
In reply to TobyA:
Went to Froggat to attempt Tody's Wall (see my recent "recommend me some easy HVSs thread"). Sadly, after warming up on Bollard Crack (a "proper" VS) it started raining hard and we didn't fancy the slab above the crux move. Instead I got slimy wet hands deep in Diamond Crack. Not a pushover in the wet it's fair to say.
Over three hours driving and a hundred miles for two climbs and a soggy sandwich. I quite enjoyed it and I'll be back for the HVS tick.
Went to Froggat to attempt Tody's Wall (see my recent "recommend me some easy HVSs thread"). Sadly, after warming up on Bollard Crack (a "proper" VS) it started raining hard and we didn't fancy the slab above the crux move. Instead I got slimy wet hands deep in Diamond Crack. Not a pushover in the wet it's fair to say.
Over three hours driving and a hundred miles for two climbs and a soggy sandwich. I quite enjoyed it and I'll be back for the HVS tick.
In reply to TobyA:
Went oop't Roaches after work on Friday with my son. We did Fledglings Climb to warmup. Then I led The Bulger, which got a monkey off my back as I fell off it 20 years ago. Finished the evening with Dan leading The Sloth.
Millstone today. I led The Mall to warmup, then we did Great Portland St, Bond St and Gt North Rd.
5 Top 50 routes in what was a pretty wet weekend. Good times!
Went oop't Roaches after work on Friday with my son. We did Fledglings Climb to warmup. Then I led The Bulger, which got a monkey off my back as I fell off it 20 years ago. Finished the evening with Dan leading The Sloth.
Millstone today. I led The Mall to warmup, then we did Great Portland St, Bond St and Gt North Rd.
5 Top 50 routes in what was a pretty wet weekend. Good times!
In reply to BnB:
Let me know when and I'll come out and belay or take pics of your moment of glory. I remember Tody's being fun, not scary and not actually particularly difficult. Was looking at Zapple today in Yarncliffe, which is another of the HVSs I did back in 2000 when I was last living in Northern England. That I remember being whole different kettle of fish, a good proper tussle, but well protected and rather fine climbing. The 5a version maybe worth putting on your list, and I should try the 5b version again (I fell off it according to my old guidebook before doing the 5a start).
> I quite enjoyed it and I'll be back for the HVS tick.
Let me know when and I'll come out and belay or take pics of your moment of glory. I remember Tody's being fun, not scary and not actually particularly difficult. Was looking at Zapple today in Yarncliffe, which is another of the HVSs I did back in 2000 when I was last living in Northern England. That I remember being whole different kettle of fish, a good proper tussle, but well protected and rather fine climbing. The 5a version maybe worth putting on your list, and I should try the 5b version again (I fell off it according to my old guidebook before doing the 5a start).
In reply to Le Chevalier Mal Fet:
I did the Mall a few weeks back with no warm up and it was really cold blowy day which didn't help. But I thought it was quite tough. What did you think? Perhaps if I do it again on a warm evening after doing some other routes it might seem a rather normal VS?
> Millstone today. I led The Mall to warmup,
I did the Mall a few weeks back with no warm up and it was really cold blowy day which didn't help. But I thought it was quite tough. What did you think? Perhaps if I do it again on a warm evening after doing some other routes it might seem a rather normal VS?
In reply to TobyA:
I thought it was tough when I did it, in fact I took my first ever lead fall on it when my foot popped off a sandy foothold. I was doing it on a miserable day with no warm up as well, and the same day I went on to dog Great Portland Street and Bond Street on second and then fall off Embankment 1 (my second lead fall). So not my best day climbing! But I'd onsighted Great Harry a couple of weekends before with no problems so I think of The Mall as being harder than that.
I thought it was tough when I did it, in fact I took my first ever lead fall on it when my foot popped off a sandy foothold. I was doing it on a miserable day with no warm up as well, and the same day I went on to dog Great Portland Street and Bond Street on second and then fall off Embankment 1 (my second lead fall). So not my best day climbing! But I'd onsighted Great Harry a couple of weekends before with no problems so I think of The Mall as being harder than that.
In reply to TobyA:
Hid from Saturday's drizzle under the overhangs of Malham and redpointed my first F7a+ (Free and Even Easier), which was nice...
Yesterday was a total write off except for managing to get another run it (I'm always struggling with issues with my running at the moment it seems, so it was nice to get some distance in again).
Today unexpectedly ended up at Gig South, back on sport routes where I actually found some amenably graded lines of quality that I hadn't done before and that my new climbing shoes are actually too big - probably good for really hot days climbing abroad then but still doesn't solve the problem of my current technical pair being held together by my own stitching, finger tape and duct tape... :-/
PP.
Hid from Saturday's drizzle under the overhangs of Malham and redpointed my first F7a+ (Free and Even Easier), which was nice...
Yesterday was a total write off except for managing to get another run it (I'm always struggling with issues with my running at the moment it seems, so it was nice to get some distance in again).
Today unexpectedly ended up at Gig South, back on sport routes where I actually found some amenably graded lines of quality that I hadn't done before and that my new climbing shoes are actually too big - probably good for really hot days climbing abroad then but still doesn't solve the problem of my current technical pair being held together by my own stitching, finger tape and duct tape... :-/
PP.
In reply to PontiusPirate:
A good day at Agden Rocher. Perfect place for a dry bank holiday monday's climbing. We keep finding routes with delightful climbing (but shame about the loose or suspect bits... not for the inexperienced). Met a man who used to climb there from 50 years ago who was telling us about varous adventures including soke in the sleeping barns.
A good day at Agden Rocher. Perfect place for a dry bank holiday monday's climbing. We keep finding routes with delightful climbing (but shame about the loose or suspect bits... not for the inexperienced). Met a man who used to climb there from 50 years ago who was telling us about varous adventures including soke in the sleeping barns.
In reply to Offwidth:
I was at Agden for a couple of hours in the afternoon too. Might have bumped into you. Saw two other parties while we were there, the place was packed! ;O)
The jug by the top of the tree on Oak Tree Walk was well chalked up, someone had obviously spent a fair bit of time there earlier in the day. Dithered a bit myself - it's quite committing isn't it?
I gurned and grunted my way up Pollux. Millstone eat your heart out - what a route!
I completely forgot to move out to the arete at the top, really just wanted to sprint to the finish having laced the crack with a gazillion little wires and run out of extenders by the time I was past the overlap. Then seconded my partner's heroic ascent of Castor to the distant sound of the High Bradfield church bells and the sheep baahing in the valley below. Cheeky pint in the Nag's Head on the way home. Fantastic.
I was at Agden for a couple of hours in the afternoon too. Might have bumped into you. Saw two other parties while we were there, the place was packed! ;O)
The jug by the top of the tree on Oak Tree Walk was well chalked up, someone had obviously spent a fair bit of time there earlier in the day. Dithered a bit myself - it's quite committing isn't it?
I gurned and grunted my way up Pollux. Millstone eat your heart out - what a route!
I completely forgot to move out to the arete at the top, really just wanted to sprint to the finish having laced the crack with a gazillion little wires and run out of extenders by the time I was past the overlap. Then seconded my partner's heroic ascent of Castor to the distant sound of the High Bradfield church bells and the sheep baahing in the valley below. Cheeky pint in the Nag's Head on the way home. Fantastic.
Post edited at 05:27
In reply to TobyA:
Cheers Toby. Might take you up on that.
Zapple (left hand 5a?) is on the list. Watched my partner slither about on its first move in the rain last year but thought it'd make a decent climb on a good day.
Cheers Toby. Might take you up on that.
Zapple (left hand 5a?) is on the list. Watched my partner slither about on its first move in the rain last year but thought it'd make a decent climb on a good day.
In reply to deepsoup:
Commiting indeed.... someone had just backed off when Moff and I were heading past to check out Scarred Wall and Kestral Crack. Those .Great Wall routes are impressive and soo long.
Moff especially enjoyed leading Campsite Crack. My fave from yesterday was Cock o the North on the right of Whitler Wal (moving onto the wall on the left at the top to keep the quality up) ... always good getting clear starworthy HS 4b climbing from a minor BMC line at a comparatively minor crag.
Commiting indeed.... someone had just backed off when Moff and I were heading past to check out Scarred Wall and Kestral Crack. Those .Great Wall routes are impressive and soo long.
Moff especially enjoyed leading Campsite Crack. My fave from yesterday was Cock o the North on the right of Whitler Wal (moving onto the wall on the left at the top to keep the quality up) ... always good getting clear starworthy HS 4b climbing from a minor BMC line at a comparatively minor crag.
Post edited at 08:12
In reply to TobyA:
As it was bucketing it down, we took the easy option and went for Tyrfan North Ridge in the pouring rain. By the time we'd started scrambling the rain had turned to snow and was already a few inches deep when we reached the cannon. Far more fun than walking in the rain and a rather unexpected last winter route of the season!
As it was bucketing it down, we took the easy option and went for Tyrfan North Ridge in the pouring rain. By the time we'd started scrambling the rain had turned to snow and was already a few inches deep when we reached the cannon. Far more fun than walking in the rain and a rather unexpected last winter route of the season!
In reply to TobyA:
Went to Curbar on Monday - the only major Eastern Edge that I hadn't yet visited (criminal since I've lived in the Peak for over a year now). Proved a good choice to avoid the bank holiday crowds as despite the carpark being rammed, the crag was virtually deserted.
Not such a good choice for climbing with a hand injury though - hand jamming is about the most painful thing I can do at the moment. Looking forward to coming back when I'm in better condition.
Went to Curbar on Monday - the only major Eastern Edge that I hadn't yet visited (criminal since I've lived in the Peak for over a year now). Proved a good choice to avoid the bank holiday crowds as despite the carpark being rammed, the crag was virtually deserted.
Not such a good choice for climbing with a hand injury though - hand jamming is about the most painful thing I can do at the moment. Looking forward to coming back when I'm in better condition.
In reply to TobyA:
I headed to Almscliff on monday with a few friends. Got on Z Climb Eliminate, which despite the guidebook suggesting is a soft touch managed to put up a hell of a fight. Clearly I need more practice on grit.
I headed to Almscliff on monday with a few friends. Got on Z Climb Eliminate, which despite the guidebook suggesting is a soft touch managed to put up a hell of a fight. Clearly I need more practice on grit.
In reply to Offwidth:
Cool, I'll have to have a look at Cock o the North some time. :O)
We had slightly the opposite experience with Koh-i-Noor. Bit of a non-route and definitely unworthy of it's one star.
Unless we were missing something it just seemed really contrived staying on the left of the arete at the start and much more natural to go up the right side to the flake then swing around and finish on the left. Looking at the previous guides (the '83 and '89 BMC Stanage guides) it seems this is Taurus (FA 1968) which the Burbage Infinity guide (incorrectly?) mentions going off to the left and up the wide crack close to the corner.
If the previous guides are correct then it seems to me that Koh-i-Noor isn't an independent route at all, it's just a variant of Taurus. (A bit like Overton Arete at Turningstone Edge, where the original route starts up one side and swings around but you can do either side throughout at a slightly harder grade.)
Cool, I'll have to have a look at Cock o the North some time. :O)
We had slightly the opposite experience with Koh-i-Noor. Bit of a non-route and definitely unworthy of it's one star.
Unless we were missing something it just seemed really contrived staying on the left of the arete at the start and much more natural to go up the right side to the flake then swing around and finish on the left. Looking at the previous guides (the '83 and '89 BMC Stanage guides) it seems this is Taurus (FA 1968) which the Burbage Infinity guide (incorrectly?) mentions going off to the left and up the wide crack close to the corner.
If the previous guides are correct then it seems to me that Koh-i-Noor isn't an independent route at all, it's just a variant of Taurus. (A bit like Overton Arete at Turningstone Edge, where the original route starts up one side and swings around but you can do either side throughout at a slightly harder grade.)
Post edited at 17:24
In reply to deepsoup:
Oh. And regarding Pollux I forgot to raise my hat to Al Evans for the first free ascent, frighteningly close to half a century ago. Al, I salute you. :O)
Oh. And regarding Pollux I forgot to raise my hat to Al Evans for the first free ascent, frighteningly close to half a century ago. Al, I salute you. :O)
In reply to Offwidth:
Glad you've been back to Agden, and glad you've done Cock o the North with the original finish - much better than the changed version in the last guide!
Of the obscurer routes I'd also recommend Agden Arete and Hagg (described as "poor" and "dangerous" in the guide, but I disagree with both!); Oak Tree Saunter (not in the 2005 guide), the VDiff leader's Oak Tree Walk; Funeral Crack; Numenorean (you're meant to take the overhang direct, not clear in the 2005 guide, can be avoided by stepping in from the left at HS 4b); Little John; Martini Crack (has been cleaned since the health warning in the last guide).
Glad you've been back to Agden, and glad you've done Cock o the North with the original finish - much better than the changed version in the last guide!
Of the obscurer routes I'd also recommend Agden Arete and Hagg (described as "poor" and "dangerous" in the guide, but I disagree with both!); Oak Tree Saunter (not in the 2005 guide), the VDiff leader's Oak Tree Walk; Funeral Crack; Numenorean (you're meant to take the overhang direct, not clear in the 2005 guide, can be avoided by stepping in from the left at HS 4b); Little John; Martini Crack (has been cleaned since the health warning in the last guide).
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Cheers, was due to ask for the next hit list and it appears as if by magic.
I think for 'changed version' if you mean a changed line that is probably overstating the matter a bit... It's been reduced to a minor line with a simplified description where they missed the need for a move left on the final wall. We did think the bottom of the route was pretty tricky...top end HS 4b, what was your view? The top was exposed easy 4b but on good holds and pro: pretty standard HS stuff.
PS due to update "Offwidth" for the new Eastern Grit (when my copy arrives) over the next few months so any other descriptions, grades etc we have that bug you we'll add to our to do list.
Cheers, was due to ask for the next hit list and it appears as if by magic.
I think for 'changed version' if you mean a changed line that is probably overstating the matter a bit... It's been reduced to a minor line with a simplified description where they missed the need for a move left on the final wall. We did think the bottom of the route was pretty tricky...top end HS 4b, what was your view? The top was exposed easy 4b but on good holds and pro: pretty standard HS stuff.
PS due to update "Offwidth" for the new Eastern Grit (when my copy arrives) over the next few months so any other descriptions, grades etc we have that bug you we'll add to our to do list.
Post edited at 19:12
In reply to deepsoup:
Cheers, good grist for the guidebook investigation mill. In this case I think Al deserves his salute (still not entirely forgiven him for Stannington Ruffs down't road)
Cheers, good grist for the guidebook investigation mill. In this case I think Al deserves his salute (still not entirely forgiven him for Stannington Ruffs down't road)
In reply to TobyA:
Had Monday kid free so met my brother at honister. wandered over to giller combe butress which was cold and wet. Some perseverance later the sun came out and we were enjoying ourselves so much we headed over to gable. We scrambled down some gullies and eventually found names needle and climbed a vd nearby which was great, stopping only to admire wasdale mrt and raf rescue in action.
Had Monday kid free so met my brother at honister. wandered over to giller combe butress which was cold and wet. Some perseverance later the sun came out and we were enjoying ourselves so much we headed over to gable. We scrambled down some gullies and eventually found names needle and climbed a vd nearby which was great, stopping only to admire wasdale mrt and raf rescue in action.
In reply to Offwidth:
I read that as changing it to not move left, but finish up the groove on the right. Which misses out the best bit of the route.
My notes say HS 4b.
> I think for 'changed version' if you mean a changed line that is probably overstating the matter a bit... It's been reduced to a minor line with a simplified description where they missed the need for a move left on the final wall.
I read that as changing it to not move left, but finish up the groove on the right. Which misses out the best bit of the route.
My notes say HS 4b.
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
I agree its the best bit (although the start is surprisingly good for the distance travelled).
The UKC text implies a deliberate choice of a new finish when in fact its almost certainly an error of omission. You still get to the easy ground at the top of the chimney before tiptoeing left across the wall. The wall and corner above the chimney is really shitty looking.
I agree its the best bit (although the start is surprisingly good for the distance travelled).
The UKC text implies a deliberate choice of a new finish when in fact its almost certainly an error of omission. You still get to the easy ground at the top of the chimney before tiptoeing left across the wall. The wall and corner above the chimney is really shitty looking.
Post edited at 13:19
In reply to TobyA:
Had a royal Almscliff spanking for my troubles today. Warmed up successfully on Whisky Crack and thought I was going all right. Got cocky and decided to spend the rest of the day failing to overcome the overhanging roof on Stomach Traverse (it's not a traverse and you need strong arms, not stomach). I was so traumatised by my efforts the much easier overhangs of Z Climb Direct then repulsed my pathetic bid. Every time I climbed up to the crux my arms turned to jelly and my lead head crumbled.
Finished the day by dogging my way up Central Climb. Why is it so much steeper than it looks? It's plain I could have done it more justice without hanging off roofs and downclimbing for three hours. But at the 'cliff they're all proper routes aren't they?
Had a royal Almscliff spanking for my troubles today. Warmed up successfully on Whisky Crack and thought I was going all right. Got cocky and decided to spend the rest of the day failing to overcome the overhanging roof on Stomach Traverse (it's not a traverse and you need strong arms, not stomach). I was so traumatised by my efforts the much easier overhangs of Z Climb Direct then repulsed my pathetic bid. Every time I climbed up to the crux my arms turned to jelly and my lead head crumbled.
Finished the day by dogging my way up Central Climb. Why is it so much steeper than it looks? It's plain I could have done it more justice without hanging off roofs and downclimbing for three hours. But at the 'cliff they're all proper routes aren't they?
In reply to BnB:
Nice one. For the first time, I got persuaded by my mate to go for a bike ride rather than a climb, so haven't been climbing at all this week! (Shock! Horror!) But I guess I need to go and put my ride story on the bike forum "what did you do this weekend?" thread not this one.
Nice one. For the first time, I got persuaded by my mate to go for a bike ride rather than a climb, so haven't been climbing at all this week! (Shock! Horror!) But I guess I need to go and put my ride story on the bike forum "what did you do this weekend?" thread not this one.
In reply to TobyA:
I found it pretty steady. VS was pretty much my limit for quite a few years while I had a young family, but now my son is 16 and really into his climbing, I've surprised myself by getting on the HVS's again.
Regarding The Mall, I think it's one of those routes that rewards a relaxed approach. There are lots of holds on the right wall, and lots of bridges that can ease your progress that might not be obvious if you're feeling a bit gripped. If it's a cold and blowy day, you aren't warmed up, and the crack is a bit greasy, I could see it feeling a lot harder.
> I did the Mall a few weeks back with no warm up and it was really cold blowy day which didn't help. But I thought it was quite tough. What did you think? Perhaps if I do it again on a warm evening after doing some other routes it might seem a rather normal VS?
I found it pretty steady. VS was pretty much my limit for quite a few years while I had a young family, but now my son is 16 and really into his climbing, I've surprised myself by getting on the HVS's again.
Regarding The Mall, I think it's one of those routes that rewards a relaxed approach. There are lots of holds on the right wall, and lots of bridges that can ease your progress that might not be obvious if you're feeling a bit gripped. If it's a cold and blowy day, you aren't warmed up, and the crack is a bit greasy, I could see it feeling a lot harder.
Post edited at 21:39
1
In reply to TobyA:
Actually managed to get out..... Short window of opportunity and lack of available partners so ended up at Stanage for an early session. Managed 10 routes up to VS (though did Central Trinity twice as I enjoyed it so much) and was back in time for Sunday lunch. Had forgotten quite how much I enjoy soloing on grit, especially at Stanage.
Actually managed to get out..... Short window of opportunity and lack of available partners so ended up at Stanage for an early session. Managed 10 routes up to VS (though did Central Trinity twice as I enjoyed it so much) and was back in time for Sunday lunch. Had forgotten quite how much I enjoy soloing on grit, especially at Stanage.
In reply to TobyA:
Stanage North
So my Friend and I attempted the Stanage VS Challenge this Sunday. It consists of the 36 starred VS's from the 1989 Guide. The routes have to be lead and seconded by a roped team and no soloing allowed. I'm a HVS/E1 on a good day climber and found it very hard.
We started at 08:10 at the base of Crab Crawl Arete at Stanage North and it finishes on Heather Wall at the Popular End. There are some really great routes along the way that I had not done before, Counts Crack and The Nose (Counts Crack is a contender for the best VS in the list, possibly on Stanage as long as you can Jam). I'd done all but 6 of the routes before but had forgotten half of them so at least half felt like an On=Sight.
Along with great routes there are a couple that we wondered why they were in the list (See-Saw, bag of shit). Also a couple of real 'Beasts', Wall Buttress is desperate, The Punk probably only gets done a couple of times a year and the Cleft Wing routes are just plain funny.
By 20:15 we had managed 27 before Bird Bans and a soaking wet Hell Crack brought us to a stop. I give upmost respect to a normal VS team who manage this in a day.
This challange also make good 'Alpine Training' as you need to be climbing well, climbing efficiently, build belays fast, good route finding and good on-sighting ability.
Feeling sore today.
Stanage North
So my Friend and I attempted the Stanage VS Challenge this Sunday. It consists of the 36 starred VS's from the 1989 Guide. The routes have to be lead and seconded by a roped team and no soloing allowed. I'm a HVS/E1 on a good day climber and found it very hard.
We started at 08:10 at the base of Crab Crawl Arete at Stanage North and it finishes on Heather Wall at the Popular End. There are some really great routes along the way that I had not done before, Counts Crack and The Nose (Counts Crack is a contender for the best VS in the list, possibly on Stanage as long as you can Jam). I'd done all but 6 of the routes before but had forgotten half of them so at least half felt like an On=Sight.
Along with great routes there are a couple that we wondered why they were in the list (See-Saw, bag of shit). Also a couple of real 'Beasts', Wall Buttress is desperate, The Punk probably only gets done a couple of times a year and the Cleft Wing routes are just plain funny.
By 20:15 we had managed 27 before Bird Bans and a soaking wet Hell Crack brought us to a stop. I give upmost respect to a normal VS team who manage this in a day.
This challange also make good 'Alpine Training' as you need to be climbing well, climbing efficiently, build belays fast, good route finding and good on-sighting ability.
Feeling sore today.
1
In reply to TobyA:
Winter mountaineering fun on the remote Beinn a'Bhuird last weekend. Always an adventure going in to that mountain! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2015/05/winter-lingers-on-beinn-abhuird/
Winter mountaineering fun on the remote Beinn a'Bhuird last weekend. Always an adventure going in to that mountain! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2015/05/winter-lingers-on-beinn-abhuird/
In reply to TobyA:
Hurrah! Proper climbing this weekend. Saturday, Gardoms. A few easy solos, seconding a friend up Apple Arete, led Gardom's Unconquerable which was tough, and Cider which was a bit nervy until my mate chucked me his tiny blue Alien, then it seemed safe and straightforward. Cold and windy but sunny. Sunday, Stanage - High Neb area. Cold, windy and no sun. Like really cold! Hats, gloves, duvet -cold. Amongst other route I did Inaccessible Crack and Simon did Quietus with one fall. I seconded it with about 5 falls! Not one I will be rushing to try and lead anytime soon! Thanks to the chap next to us who took some nice pics of Simon while I belayed.
Hurrah! Proper climbing this weekend. Saturday, Gardoms. A few easy solos, seconding a friend up Apple Arete, led Gardom's Unconquerable which was tough, and Cider which was a bit nervy until my mate chucked me his tiny blue Alien, then it seemed safe and straightforward. Cold and windy but sunny. Sunday, Stanage - High Neb area. Cold, windy and no sun. Like really cold! Hats, gloves, duvet -cold. Amongst other route I did Inaccessible Crack and Simon did Quietus with one fall. I seconded it with about 5 falls! Not one I will be rushing to try and lead anytime soon! Thanks to the chap next to us who took some nice pics of Simon while I belayed.
In reply to TobyA:
6a os, followed by a 6b which I fluffed by not seeing a move, followed by Burma Road. Now THAT is a truly classic route! E2 with totally wild moves way off the deck between good rests... Bit of gardening required by Felix on the lead, but totally worth it! http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=39992
6a os, followed by a 6b which I fluffed by not seeing a move, followed by Burma Road. Now THAT is a truly classic route! E2 with totally wild moves way off the deck between good rests... Bit of gardening required by Felix on the lead, but totally worth it! http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=39992
Post edited at 20:25
In reply to TobyA:
Went to Ramshaw yesterday and now the back of my hands are a mess. Did a few E1s but the best route I did was Prostration, took a while to unlock the sequence but managed it clean. I'm pretty keen to go back there now for more steep jamming action.
Went to Ramshaw yesterday and now the back of my hands are a mess. Did a few E1s but the best route I did was Prostration, took a while to unlock the sequence but managed it clean. I'm pretty keen to go back there now for more steep jamming action.
1
In reply to LakesWinter:
Crack gloves mate! You know it makes sense!
Actually, on a serious note - if you want to climb a few days in a row and are doing lots of crack climbing, they really do make sense. I've got the singing rock ones, but mates in Finland tell me the Occun ones are a bit better. I think the Singing Rocks give you a bit more width (that can be good or bad depending on the jam!) but don't protect your wrist as well.
> Went to Ramshaw yesterday and now the back of my hands are a mess.
Crack gloves mate! You know it makes sense!
Actually, on a serious note - if you want to climb a few days in a row and are doing lots of crack climbing, they really do make sense. I've got the singing rock ones, but mates in Finland tell me the Occun ones are a bit better. I think the Singing Rocks give you a bit more width (that can be good or bad depending on the jam!) but don't protect your wrist as well.
1
In reply to TobyA:
I did one of the easier routes at my local bouldering spot ...but also the highest, hence not topping out till now
Also one of the shortest, the least V0 V0 you're ever likely to meet, requiring fingers of steel and good footwork. Or a better pilot.
I did one of the easier routes at my local bouldering spot ...but also the highest, hence not topping out till now
Also one of the shortest, the least V0 V0 you're ever likely to meet, requiring fingers of steel and good footwork. Or a better pilot.
In reply to TobyA:
First ever trip to Brimham on Saturday. Got spanked on Frensis Direct (E1 5b) (not a good warm up and certainly difficult to on-sight) then did the very elegant The Black Chipper (E2 5b), much more my style. Followed my mate up Pathos (E3 6a) which felt sketchy on second but could have possibly led. In the afternoon went to explore Eavestone Crag, good in parts, very "lost wordlish" in others. Both led the excellent The Alamo (E2 5b) after I wimped out of leading Oubliette (E2 5b) then went to suss out the awesome looking routes on the Eavestone itself. Rounded the day off on the very disappointing Wedgwood (HVS 5a), which I cannot for the life of me see being worth the three stars it gets. Filthy, unprotected (though easy) first half leading to greasy and strenuous finish - didn't fancy the lichenous and grassy top-out so sidled left to finish. Logbook comments seem very positive about it, am I just fussy? Anyway, a grand day out, really must make the effort to get out of the Peak more often.
First ever trip to Brimham on Saturday. Got spanked on Frensis Direct (E1 5b) (not a good warm up and certainly difficult to on-sight) then did the very elegant The Black Chipper (E2 5b), much more my style. Followed my mate up Pathos (E3 6a) which felt sketchy on second but could have possibly led. In the afternoon went to explore Eavestone Crag, good in parts, very "lost wordlish" in others. Both led the excellent The Alamo (E2 5b) after I wimped out of leading Oubliette (E2 5b) then went to suss out the awesome looking routes on the Eavestone itself. Rounded the day off on the very disappointing Wedgwood (HVS 5a), which I cannot for the life of me see being worth the three stars it gets. Filthy, unprotected (though easy) first half leading to greasy and strenuous finish - didn't fancy the lichenous and grassy top-out so sidled left to finish. Logbook comments seem very positive about it, am I just fussy? Anyway, a grand day out, really must make the effort to get out of the Peak more often.
1
In reply to TobyA:
Fell off Ancient Rhythms at Horseshoe a lot. The crux past the 2nd bolt is hideous!
Fell off Ancient Rhythms at Horseshoe a lot. The crux past the 2nd bolt is hideous!
In reply to TobyA:
A bit delayed, but last weekend I got stuck into the Stanage VS challenge with my brother in law. We started at Heather Wall at about 8:40am and worked leftwards, getting as far as Count's Crack at about 5:40pm, where we decided to head back to our wives, babies and dinner rather than walking all the way to High Neb and beyond. 25 VSs done which is more than I usually do at Stanage. A couple of the sections are bird banned at the moment so the complete challenge isn't possible. It was great to get on a couple of routes I'd not done before (Wall Buttress, Cleft Wing...) and some gems I might never have bothered with (The Punk, See Saw). An honourable mention to Via Roof Route for being a total stinker, though I see it's been upgraded to HVS.
I think the better strategy is to start at the north and do the walking when you can be bothered, finishing on all the popular end classics at the end of the day. Certainly it makes for good alpine training - quick climbing, quick belay set-ups, quick change overs, constant movement, and rock mileage! That being said, we did sit down for a bite to eat every five routes, so not quite alpine...
Probably go back and have a more serious attempt later in the year.
A bit delayed, but last weekend I got stuck into the Stanage VS challenge with my brother in law. We started at Heather Wall at about 8:40am and worked leftwards, getting as far as Count's Crack at about 5:40pm, where we decided to head back to our wives, babies and dinner rather than walking all the way to High Neb and beyond. 25 VSs done which is more than I usually do at Stanage. A couple of the sections are bird banned at the moment so the complete challenge isn't possible. It was great to get on a couple of routes I'd not done before (Wall Buttress, Cleft Wing...) and some gems I might never have bothered with (The Punk, See Saw). An honourable mention to Via Roof Route for being a total stinker, though I see it's been upgraded to HVS.
I think the better strategy is to start at the north and do the walking when you can be bothered, finishing on all the popular end classics at the end of the day. Certainly it makes for good alpine training - quick climbing, quick belay set-ups, quick change overs, constant movement, and rock mileage! That being said, we did sit down for a bite to eat every five routes, so not quite alpine...
Probably go back and have a more serious attempt later in the year.
Post edited at 17:12
In reply to TobyA:
Saturday was the first day I've felt up to trying anything much since mid-April. Obviously it was all a bit wobbly but I was pretty pleased with getting a V4 I've never tried before before on my second go.
Until I found out that Offwidth thinks it's only V2...
Saturday was the first day I've felt up to trying anything much since mid-April. Obviously it was all a bit wobbly but I was pretty pleased with getting a V4 I've never tried before before on my second go.
Until I found out that Offwidth thinks it's only V2...
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