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UKC Fit Club Week 423
I think spring has sprung and the sap is rising, everyone is pushing things forward, loads of positives this week and last, and no sign of any (new) injuries apart from Cheese Monkey attempting to lacerate himself with various household objects.
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=614001
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/climbing-new-routes-on-the-spectacular-... less about the climbing and more about the destination, I can relate to this after going to Kalymnos as it's such a lovely place to be, climbing aside. I guess it psyches me up to travel somewhere beautiful (and steep)
Last week's posters:
Dandan82 - Holiday's over sonny jim, back to reality
Lancer - Great week, congrats on the onsights! Did you manage to squeeze anything in this week?
Joughton - A month off the boulders will certainly have an effect, hope it comes back soon
AJM - Illness and injuries, bad combo. Good news on the biking though, long to go before the ride?
mbh - Good job on the 5 Tors, looks like a great result!
The Ex-engineer - Great finish to the week, congrats on the redpoint!
Cheese Monkey - Are you trying to start up Injury Club? Good volume and some good achievements though
hms - 90 problems, impressive! Any more bleeding and jibbering this week?
Mutl3y - Sounds like a brilliant week, I guess you found some motivation?
Exile - Solid training week, dare I ask what fartlek is? It sounds, well, you know...
Tyler - I never complain about a soft tick! And thats a strong set of pull ups
Mattrm - Your copy/pasting has betrayed you, it's Dan, Dan! Hoping the DIY has left room for at least a little climbing?
Joyce - Thats awesome progress on the project, you'll be on Careless Torque before you know it
Ian Rock - Well done on the V3, smashed your target there! Also impressive weight loss without crash dieting should mean you can keep it off
Roadrunner5 - Absolutely in awe, very well done on the race. The only way i'm ever doing 10,000ft of ascent is in a plane...
Willi Crater - Another steady week, keep it up!
mrchewy - Glad the holiday picked up. Efficient climbing is the future (only took me 10 years to figure it out)
Planetmarshall - Taking it steady sounds like the smart option
flopsicle - Strength work is my favourite, it's all the motivation I need! Perhaps noting down reps/weights and aiming for increases? Not very high tech but might help.
Humperdink - 67 miles seems a solid week from where i'm standing, still, onwards and upwards!
Biscuit - Still counting the days until your leave starts?
0.5viking - Loads of outside climbing, good stuff!
Ally Smith - More impressive boulder ticks, have fun in RRG!
Nick Russell - Lots of climbing, awaiting further communication
Luke Owens - Plenty of outdoor action, and good commitment on the Aerocap (yawn!)
AWOL - Just Tintin and Creedence
I think spring has sprung and the sap is rising, everyone is pushing things forward, loads of positives this week and last, and no sign of any (new) injuries apart from Cheese Monkey attempting to lacerate himself with various household objects.
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=614001
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/climbing-new-routes-on-the-spectacular-... less about the climbing and more about the destination, I can relate to this after going to Kalymnos as it's such a lovely place to be, climbing aside. I guess it psyches me up to travel somewhere beautiful (and steep)
Last week's posters:
Dandan82 - Holiday's over sonny jim, back to reality
Lancer - Great week, congrats on the onsights! Did you manage to squeeze anything in this week?
Joughton - A month off the boulders will certainly have an effect, hope it comes back soon
AJM - Illness and injuries, bad combo. Good news on the biking though, long to go before the ride?
mbh - Good job on the 5 Tors, looks like a great result!
The Ex-engineer - Great finish to the week, congrats on the redpoint!
Cheese Monkey - Are you trying to start up Injury Club? Good volume and some good achievements though
hms - 90 problems, impressive! Any more bleeding and jibbering this week?
Mutl3y - Sounds like a brilliant week, I guess you found some motivation?
Exile - Solid training week, dare I ask what fartlek is? It sounds, well, you know...
Tyler - I never complain about a soft tick! And thats a strong set of pull ups
Mattrm - Your copy/pasting has betrayed you, it's Dan, Dan! Hoping the DIY has left room for at least a little climbing?
Joyce - Thats awesome progress on the project, you'll be on Careless Torque before you know it
Ian Rock - Well done on the V3, smashed your target there! Also impressive weight loss without crash dieting should mean you can keep it off
Roadrunner5 - Absolutely in awe, very well done on the race. The only way i'm ever doing 10,000ft of ascent is in a plane...
Willi Crater - Another steady week, keep it up!
mrchewy - Glad the holiday picked up. Efficient climbing is the future (only took me 10 years to figure it out)
Planetmarshall - Taking it steady sounds like the smart option
flopsicle - Strength work is my favourite, it's all the motivation I need! Perhaps noting down reps/weights and aiming for increases? Not very high tech but might help.
Humperdink - 67 miles seems a solid week from where i'm standing, still, onwards and upwards!
Biscuit - Still counting the days until your leave starts?
0.5viking - Loads of outside climbing, good stuff!
Ally Smith - More impressive boulder ticks, have fun in RRG!
Nick Russell - Lots of climbing, awaiting further communication
Luke Owens - Plenty of outdoor action, and good commitment on the Aerocap (yawn!)
AWOL - Just Tintin and Creedence
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan! Busy week so didn't have chance to do much work at home so I've been relatively safe.
M- am swim at Horfield
T- am 1hr cycle. Pm cheddar session and sent a 7b on TR! Completely unexpected
W- am off. Pm went and did an E2 5b which was scary and an E3 6a which was nice
T- am 30min run. Pm Nibelheim at Wintours
F- am tried for a swim at Henbury but pool closed. Pm sent a 6c+ and repeated a 7a at new quarry
S- tried again for a swim at Horfield but also closed. 1hr cycle instead. Went to a rave in the evening. Definitely counts as exercise!
S- legs aching from stomping. Trying for a swim later if not will go for run.
STG- Redpoint the 7b. Maintain training intensity
MTG- 7b+. Triathlon. Boost onsight grade.
LTG- 7c!
Cheers Dan! Busy week so didn't have chance to do much work at home so I've been relatively safe.
M- am swim at Horfield
T- am 1hr cycle. Pm cheddar session and sent a 7b on TR! Completely unexpected
W- am off. Pm went and did an E2 5b which was scary and an E3 6a which was nice
T- am 30min run. Pm Nibelheim at Wintours
F- am tried for a swim at Henbury but pool closed. Pm sent a 6c+ and repeated a 7a at new quarry
S- tried again for a swim at Horfield but also closed. 1hr cycle instead. Went to a rave in the evening. Definitely counts as exercise!
S- legs aching from stomping. Trying for a swim later if not will go for run.
STG- Redpoint the 7b. Maintain training intensity
MTG- 7b+. Triathlon. Boost onsight grade.
LTG- 7c!
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. I ought to be able to push higher up the 5 Tors field next time, mind. Maybe that time I won't run 15 miles the day before...
Anyway this week has been a disaster. Soon after finishing the 5 Tors i moved some heavy boxes up some very steep stairs and I think that in doing that I tore or strained an intercostal muscle. I have a very localised pain a rib or two up from the bottom, and the whole experience is just like when I cracked or broke (??) a rib when falling down the very same stairs a few years ago. Anything that moves the rib cage hurts, it got worse for a few days and somehow has affected my whole body, giving a general sense of malaise ;( Only today have I noticed an improvement, but even a bit of light hoeing at the allotment still hurt, an hour or so ago. I tried a run on Tuesday but could tell immediately that I wasn't going anywhere, and just about made it around the block.
So, the upshot is that apart from that jog I haven't done anything. Deep breathing hurts so any kind of aerobic exercise seems off limits at the moment. I might try a gentle cycle ride along the Camel trail later, or tomorrow, but I don't know what else I can do apart from wait for it to heal.
On the bright side, I have more time for other things!
Thanks Dan. I ought to be able to push higher up the 5 Tors field next time, mind. Maybe that time I won't run 15 miles the day before...
Anyway this week has been a disaster. Soon after finishing the 5 Tors i moved some heavy boxes up some very steep stairs and I think that in doing that I tore or strained an intercostal muscle. I have a very localised pain a rib or two up from the bottom, and the whole experience is just like when I cracked or broke (??) a rib when falling down the very same stairs a few years ago. Anything that moves the rib cage hurts, it got worse for a few days and somehow has affected my whole body, giving a general sense of malaise ;( Only today have I noticed an improvement, but even a bit of light hoeing at the allotment still hurt, an hour or so ago. I tried a run on Tuesday but could tell immediately that I wasn't going anywhere, and just about made it around the block.
So, the upshot is that apart from that jog I haven't done anything. Deep breathing hurts so any kind of aerobic exercise seems off limits at the moment. I might try a gentle cycle ride along the Camel trail later, or tomorrow, but I don't know what else I can do apart from wait for it to heal.
On the bright side, I have more time for other things!
In reply to mbh:
darn it - hope you are not out for too long. Would def recommend you go and see a physio asap - good to get a professional opinion as to what it is.
darn it - hope you are not out for too long. Would def recommend you go and see a physio asap - good to get a professional opinion as to what it is.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan, it was solid enough I just wasn't full of confidence after the sessions but gave myself a talking to and feeling more positive this week:
M: am - run to work 4/5M in 28:32, pm - 9M steady in 60:03
Tu: am, jog to work 15min, lunchtime - grass session 4x (4x400) off 60secs and 3min between sets. Did them on a slightly bumpy, windy field so times a bit affected. Was pleased to do them at 5K pace or better (averages were 69,70,71 and 70 for the sets), pm - 32:03 easy back home 4/5M
W: am - 9M steady in 64:10
Th: pm - 5M steady in 35:14 - still sore/ tired from Tuesday session!
F: 8M easy in 54:05 finally felt better
Sa: am - grass session round the outside of a cricket pitch. Did this with 3 other lads who had all run under 8:30 for 3k last week so good quality group to train with. Session was 3 laps, 2 laps, 1 lap, 2 laps, 3 laps with 1 min recovery @ 5K pace. Stayed with the others until end of the second 2 lap effort and got dropped on a last lap burn up on the last 3 lap rep but according to a garmin we were 4:30 miling at some points so I'll take that! 8/9M total. pm - 5M steady in 35:07
Su: Nipped out early this morning with the wife to get the long run done before settling down to watch the marathon with tea and toast. 13/14M steady in 1:30:15
So roughly 75M total and some better sessions this week. Now looking forward to a 10k on the road next Sunday and hopefully putting my PB under threat.
Thanks Dandan, it was solid enough I just wasn't full of confidence after the sessions but gave myself a talking to and feeling more positive this week:
M: am - run to work 4/5M in 28:32, pm - 9M steady in 60:03
Tu: am, jog to work 15min, lunchtime - grass session 4x (4x400) off 60secs and 3min between sets. Did them on a slightly bumpy, windy field so times a bit affected. Was pleased to do them at 5K pace or better (averages were 69,70,71 and 70 for the sets), pm - 32:03 easy back home 4/5M
W: am - 9M steady in 64:10
Th: pm - 5M steady in 35:14 - still sore/ tired from Tuesday session!
F: 8M easy in 54:05 finally felt better
Sa: am - grass session round the outside of a cricket pitch. Did this with 3 other lads who had all run under 8:30 for 3k last week so good quality group to train with. Session was 3 laps, 2 laps, 1 lap, 2 laps, 3 laps with 1 min recovery @ 5K pace. Stayed with the others until end of the second 2 lap effort and got dropped on a last lap burn up on the last 3 lap rep but according to a garmin we were 4:30 miling at some points so I'll take that! 8/9M total. pm - 5M steady in 35:07
Su: Nipped out early this morning with the wife to get the long run done before settling down to watch the marathon with tea and toast. 13/14M steady in 1:30:15
So roughly 75M total and some better sessions this week. Now looking forward to a 10k on the road next Sunday and hopefully putting my PB under threat.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. 2 weeks today, the "Jurassic Beast" round Purbeck. Should be fun, in hindsight, just as long as the weather is good.
Better week this week. Inlaws here this weekend, which combined with some seriously trashed skin has meant that the end of the week has tailed off a bit.....
Monday - cycle commute I think. Don't think I did anything else.
Tuesday - bottom pullups before work. Big session after work - wide grip pullups, rings(shoulder) about 90% complete, rings(core) about 50% complete, continuity
Wednesday - cycle commute to work. Looped home via Purbeck, glorious evening, same ride as Sunday basically once I got over the ferry. A lot faster, in part due to not stopping for ice cream but actually my times on some of the hill legs were better as well. Good session.
Thursday - wall. Severe doms still from Tuesday. Tried to do some rings work but ended up dragging myself round a continuity session due to failing on broadly speaking everything else.
Friday - 7:3 fingerboard before work. Cycle commute. Tried the 10:3 fingerboard after work, intensity all wrong, have discussed with coach so should be able to get this right next week.
Saturday - a few hours walk in the mist and fog and drizzle round St Aldhelms Head with the inlaws
Sunday - beer brewing and some gorse picking for gorse flower wine too. In terms of training, a 7:3 fingerboard session.
So about 50 miles for the week including one good length ride. Might be trying to do that loop (or something similar) again tomorrow after work if it's a nice evening.
In terms of climbing training, it went ok. I missed out on one of each rings session and one fingerboard session, plus the fingerboard AnCap just didn't go right at all. I was going to do the rings today but my skin is just trashed from the high volume fingerboard AeroCap stuff.
Looking forwards to seeing how the beer goes too Belgian style brew, have empty champagne bottles to bottle it in, should be a good summer beer. Also collected a load of our wedding presents when the inlaws came down so have bike and climbing porn galore to get inspired by...
> AJM - Illness and injuries, bad combo. Good news on the biking though, long to go before the ride?
Cheers Dan. 2 weeks today, the "Jurassic Beast" round Purbeck. Should be fun, in hindsight, just as long as the weather is good.
Better week this week. Inlaws here this weekend, which combined with some seriously trashed skin has meant that the end of the week has tailed off a bit.....
Monday - cycle commute I think. Don't think I did anything else.
Tuesday - bottom pullups before work. Big session after work - wide grip pullups, rings(shoulder) about 90% complete, rings(core) about 50% complete, continuity
Wednesday - cycle commute to work. Looped home via Purbeck, glorious evening, same ride as Sunday basically once I got over the ferry. A lot faster, in part due to not stopping for ice cream but actually my times on some of the hill legs were better as well. Good session.
Thursday - wall. Severe doms still from Tuesday. Tried to do some rings work but ended up dragging myself round a continuity session due to failing on broadly speaking everything else.
Friday - 7:3 fingerboard before work. Cycle commute. Tried the 10:3 fingerboard after work, intensity all wrong, have discussed with coach so should be able to get this right next week.
Saturday - a few hours walk in the mist and fog and drizzle round St Aldhelms Head with the inlaws
Sunday - beer brewing and some gorse picking for gorse flower wine too. In terms of training, a 7:3 fingerboard session.
So about 50 miles for the week including one good length ride. Might be trying to do that loop (or something similar) again tomorrow after work if it's a nice evening.
In terms of climbing training, it went ok. I missed out on one of each rings session and one fingerboard session, plus the fingerboard AnCap just didn't go right at all. I was going to do the rings today but my skin is just trashed from the high volume fingerboard AeroCap stuff.
Looking forwards to seeing how the beer goes too Belgian style brew, have empty champagne bottles to bottle it in, should be a good summer beer. Also collected a load of our wedding presents when the inlaws came down so have bike and climbing porn galore to get inspired by...
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for the thread Dandan. I got nowhere trying to make myslf do my reps - I need to stand in the corner....
Mon - Nowt!
Tues - 2.8 mile hilly run but I hated it. Too hot, just felt way too hot and it's not summer yet! Bring back the ice and mud. Eve - daughter on new HOOOGE bike, HIT training, leg it after the bike, stop to pick child up from heap, leg it after the bike etc etc. Out for 2 hrs!
Weds - 2.5 mile hilly run, not as hot as yesterday but bit miffed as was making good time through a segment and then had to walk it due to muppet with 2 huge dogs who was content to say 'they'll only chase and bark, I don't think they'll bite' Just didn't feel like playing prey with 2 rhodey ridgeback X bull breed! Eve - 2 hrs lead climbing/ropes.
Thurs - 2.9 miles running after daughter on bike and pulling her out of brambles!
Fri - Shed clearing to rescue my old bike and make space to store them near the house. Shifted a shedload of stuff *Bom Bom* . Climbing - approx 2 hrs, did 80 laps on the auto belay on a single F4 route, 1600ft minusing 7ft per lap for height and to make maths easy! Very hard on a single route but there were no 5s, 6s too hard for lapping. Still, my previous best was 61 laps so it's a step towards the 100 goal. Eve - 3 mile run behind daughter's bike but stuffed up starva as forgot to turn off! VERY tired.
Sat - Easy day. 5.5 mile very steady bike ride with daughter, felt amazing, almost 8 yrs since I mothballed the bike when pregnant and never managed to get it out again. Amazing to be riding with my daughter, amazing that she must have fallen off 20 times but still wanted to go on and on if we'd had time. So happy. Afternoon - 1.5 hrs climbing, comp problems but I was shocking!
Sun - 2 hrs dragon boat paddling, race practice so full on. 1.5 hrs bouldering, practicing one handed left and right to improve my catching, really pleased with how I did on V0 -V2 set, got most with just right and just left. Then a bit of skin came off my pinky and I took my teeny owey home.
Probably the most tiring week I've had in ages, but so worth it.
Thanks for the thread Dandan. I got nowhere trying to make myslf do my reps - I need to stand in the corner....
Mon - Nowt!
Tues - 2.8 mile hilly run but I hated it. Too hot, just felt way too hot and it's not summer yet! Bring back the ice and mud. Eve - daughter on new HOOOGE bike, HIT training, leg it after the bike, stop to pick child up from heap, leg it after the bike etc etc. Out for 2 hrs!
Weds - 2.5 mile hilly run, not as hot as yesterday but bit miffed as was making good time through a segment and then had to walk it due to muppet with 2 huge dogs who was content to say 'they'll only chase and bark, I don't think they'll bite' Just didn't feel like playing prey with 2 rhodey ridgeback X bull breed! Eve - 2 hrs lead climbing/ropes.
Thurs - 2.9 miles running after daughter on bike and pulling her out of brambles!
Fri - Shed clearing to rescue my old bike and make space to store them near the house. Shifted a shedload of stuff *Bom Bom* . Climbing - approx 2 hrs, did 80 laps on the auto belay on a single F4 route, 1600ft minusing 7ft per lap for height and to make maths easy! Very hard on a single route but there were no 5s, 6s too hard for lapping. Still, my previous best was 61 laps so it's a step towards the 100 goal. Eve - 3 mile run behind daughter's bike but stuffed up starva as forgot to turn off! VERY tired.
Sat - Easy day. 5.5 mile very steady bike ride with daughter, felt amazing, almost 8 yrs since I mothballed the bike when pregnant and never managed to get it out again. Amazing to be riding with my daughter, amazing that she must have fallen off 20 times but still wanted to go on and on if we'd had time. So happy. Afternoon - 1.5 hrs climbing, comp problems but I was shocking!
Sun - 2 hrs dragon boat paddling, race practice so full on. 1.5 hrs bouldering, practicing one handed left and right to improve my catching, really pleased with how I did on V0 -V2 set, got most with just right and just left. Then a bit of skin came off my pinky and I took my teeny owey home.
Probably the most tiring week I've had in ages, but so worth it.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing fit club again fella.
Fartlek - posh runner speak for interval training where the intervals are different speeds and intensities. The ride I was on was not planned as this but turned into it as I was following my mate who had just spent ten days pulling pulks around Greenland, so has legs of iron!
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - started!
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr 30min road ride (Mountain endurance)
T: 1hr 30min bouldering at Badger Rock - Well chuffed as got the there and back traverse on the top end of the boulder with a sit start, (7a I think?) within 10 minutes of getting there. I've only done it once before.
W: 1hr 30min PE and core at the wall - A brilliant session, quite a step change up in what I have been able to do before.
T: 1hr 30min road ride (Mountain endurance)
F: 30min continual traversing on 6b traverse, used it as a recovery session.
S: Rest
S: Opened the years account on Countash, (7b,) at Millside Scar - Got all the moves again, (last on it last September.) Felt hard but I know I'm a lot fitter than last year so have put it down to lack of rock time and the fine tuning in technique that gives you.
A great week getting back on rock. Also lost up to 8lb in two weeks, (having actioned the advice in Racing Weight,) which has had a huge effect on my climbing, (see Tuesday and Wednesday.)
Thanks for doing fit club again fella.
Fartlek - posh runner speak for interval training where the intervals are different speeds and intensities. The ride I was on was not planned as this but turned into it as I was following my mate who had just spent ten days pulling pulks around Greenland, so has legs of iron!
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - started!
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr 30min road ride (Mountain endurance)
T: 1hr 30min bouldering at Badger Rock - Well chuffed as got the there and back traverse on the top end of the boulder with a sit start, (7a I think?) within 10 minutes of getting there. I've only done it once before.
W: 1hr 30min PE and core at the wall - A brilliant session, quite a step change up in what I have been able to do before.
T: 1hr 30min road ride (Mountain endurance)
F: 30min continual traversing on 6b traverse, used it as a recovery session.
S: Rest
S: Opened the years account on Countash, (7b,) at Millside Scar - Got all the moves again, (last on it last September.) Felt hard but I know I'm a lot fitter than last year so have put it down to lack of rock time and the fine tuning in technique that gives you.
A great week getting back on rock. Also lost up to 8lb in two weeks, (having actioned the advice in Racing Weight,) which has had a huge effect on my climbing, (see Tuesday and Wednesday.)
In reply to Dandan:
Succeeded in adding a couple of strength sessions this week courtesy of the local CrossFit gym in Buxton. The result has been severe DOMS in the shoulders for the past couple of days! My own fault for not working those muscles for a while.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Trail Run 14.12km/367m
Wed - Rest
Thu - CrossFit. Various military press, thrusters, jerk, wall balls
Fri - Trail Run 11.94km/416m
Sat - General Core and Strength session. Leg raises, Pull ups, Front squat, Inclined ring pull etc
Sun - 3 hour cycle
I've pushed the 8 week transition period back a week so I'm about to start week 4, the plan being to increase volume (in terms of time spent on aerobic sessions) by 10% for the next two weeks.
On the hand front, spoke to GP No.3 last week who discovered that my referral to the clinic had not been received. A second one has been sent, marked urgent and confirmed as received but I have yet to receive an appointment.
Succeeded in adding a couple of strength sessions this week courtesy of the local CrossFit gym in Buxton. The result has been severe DOMS in the shoulders for the past couple of days! My own fault for not working those muscles for a while.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Trail Run 14.12km/367m
Wed - Rest
Thu - CrossFit. Various military press, thrusters, jerk, wall balls
Fri - Trail Run 11.94km/416m
Sat - General Core and Strength session. Leg raises, Pull ups, Front squat, Inclined ring pull etc
Sun - 3 hour cycle
I've pushed the 8 week transition period back a week so I'm about to start week 4, the plan being to increase volume (in terms of time spent on aerobic sessions) by 10% for the next two weeks.
On the hand front, spoke to GP No.3 last week who discovered that my referral to the clinic had not been received. A second one has been sent, marked urgent and confirmed as received but I have yet to receive an appointment.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers to me for doing the stats, really relaxed week this week, just winding down and recovering from the holiday, I know I was waxing lyrical in the first post about positivity and lack of injuries but unfortunately there always has to be one person to spoil the party, I think that the kalymnos trip has somehow given me tennis elbow...
M:
T:
W:
T: Indoors, boulder, nothing special
F:
S: DIY garage foundations
S:
Session on Thursday was always going to be a steady one to keep things ticking along, but I got there and they STILL haven't reset any of the routes that are now 4 months old, and my elbows flared up almost immediately. This resulted in a truly rubbish session all around. Bah.
I've historically had a lot of elbow issues and a lot of it was being sorted with my new routines (warm ups, stretches, flexbar) but it was reasonable to get some problems from a 14 day climbing trip with 11 days on. Unfortunately, along with the usual (possible) golfers elbow that tends to be sorted with the flexbar, and the usual (possible) brachialis tendonosis that is usually sorted with the stretching, I have, for the whole of this week, had a pain in my outer, upper forearm whenever I hold or squeeze something, like a mug of tea or a door handle, exactly as a tennis elbow sufferer would describe. That's nearly a full house of elbow issues, I just need a dislocation for bingo!
Overdoing it at the end of the holiday seems to have caused more damage than usual, time for some more physio methinks, i'm going to try a new one that has been recommended, the principle treats Team GB members and Cirque de Soleil performers so he might know a thing or two about elbows, i'd really like to get to the bottom of it once and for all.
The plan for this week is to do the eccentric weight-on-a-pole exercises to try and shift the new tennis elbow and get a physio booked. No climbing this week is probably a safe bet.
Cheers to me for doing the stats, really relaxed week this week, just winding down and recovering from the holiday, I know I was waxing lyrical in the first post about positivity and lack of injuries but unfortunately there always has to be one person to spoil the party, I think that the kalymnos trip has somehow given me tennis elbow...
M:
T:
W:
T: Indoors, boulder, nothing special
F:
S: DIY garage foundations
S:
Session on Thursday was always going to be a steady one to keep things ticking along, but I got there and they STILL haven't reset any of the routes that are now 4 months old, and my elbows flared up almost immediately. This resulted in a truly rubbish session all around. Bah.
I've historically had a lot of elbow issues and a lot of it was being sorted with my new routines (warm ups, stretches, flexbar) but it was reasonable to get some problems from a 14 day climbing trip with 11 days on. Unfortunately, along with the usual (possible) golfers elbow that tends to be sorted with the flexbar, and the usual (possible) brachialis tendonosis that is usually sorted with the stretching, I have, for the whole of this week, had a pain in my outer, upper forearm whenever I hold or squeeze something, like a mug of tea or a door handle, exactly as a tennis elbow sufferer would describe. That's nearly a full house of elbow issues, I just need a dislocation for bingo!
Overdoing it at the end of the holiday seems to have caused more damage than usual, time for some more physio methinks, i'm going to try a new one that has been recommended, the principle treats Team GB members and Cirque de Soleil performers so he might know a thing or two about elbows, i'd really like to get to the bottom of it once and for all.
The plan for this week is to do the eccentric weight-on-a-pole exercises to try and shift the new tennis elbow and get a physio booked. No climbing this week is probably a safe bet.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks, another solid week.
m: 5 miles slow
t: 4 miles at lunch. pm: 11.3 miles on trails.
w: 3.1 miles easy. 10 mile road run 6:55 pace
t: lunch: 3.1 miles 7:10 pace. pm: 7 mile trail run steady 1000 foot ascent,
f: am: 5.1 miles 7:30 pace at lunch. pm: 10.5 miles 2000 foot ascent dickey ridge trail Shenandoah NP
s: 23.7 miles 6000ft ascent mountain run shenandoah NP.
s: 6.2 mile 1500foot mountain run
10,000 ft plus of ascent and 90+ mile week. felt tired and a bit battered on the long run saturday.
Thanks, another solid week.
m: 5 miles slow
t: 4 miles at lunch. pm: 11.3 miles on trails.
w: 3.1 miles easy. 10 mile road run 6:55 pace
t: lunch: 3.1 miles 7:10 pace. pm: 7 mile trail run steady 1000 foot ascent,
f: am: 5.1 miles 7:30 pace at lunch. pm: 10.5 miles 2000 foot ascent dickey ridge trail Shenandoah NP
s: 23.7 miles 6000ft ascent mountain run shenandoah NP.
s: 6.2 mile 1500foot mountain run
10,000 ft plus of ascent and 90+ mile week. felt tired and a bit battered on the long run saturday.
In reply to Dandan:
Hope that elbow trouble clears up quickly chap.
STG - Salbit Sudgrat. (Need to start some cardio)
MTG - Climb some lime in Spain. (Need to climb better)
LTG - Salbit West Ridge.
Mon - Rest. Battered from the previous week if I'm honest.
Tue - See physio. painful session on the left ITB, medial area, calf attachment thingy. Told not to boulder that evening... could hardly walk when I got off the table.
Wed - Pinnacle. Knee not the best but tried hard. Usual story of total stopper moves for my wrist and left pretty demotivated.
Thu - Hangboard. Not been on a campus rail in ages or hanging and boy, so much weaker.
Fri - Big Rock, MK. Really good session, playing on the V4-6 circuit. Sometimes too weak, then wrong sequence but did much better than I thought I would.
Sat - New members meet at Stanage. Big turnout. Led some stuff. Had the wobbles about gear ripping after it happened the other week but just held position for a while and then moved on.
Sun - Club meet at High Neb. No psyche after being there last week. Took some of the newer members up some easier stuff - made worth it when Holly gave a "woo, that was brilliant" at the top of Eric's Eliminate.
Physio killed on Tuesday but made the knee feel much better. Seeing her again this week tho - need to sort it.
Sore toes all week, which I'm guessing is down to weighting my feet better than I was before. No longer get pumped, I shouldn't at the grades I play on either but this makes me very happy. Larked around a bit on climbs this week, going for jams when I didn't need to etc and placing gear from harder positions than necessary and just feel like I'm climbing so much better despite being a whole lot weaker due to not training methodically.
Felt like the end of an era cancelling my membership at Pinnacle but I wanna make progress with my climbing and I think that can be done better elsewhere at the moment. Trips to the Peak midweek will be knackering but bouldering on limestone will be a lot better than being shut down on plastic every visit.
Hope that elbow trouble clears up quickly chap.
STG - Salbit Sudgrat. (Need to start some cardio)
MTG - Climb some lime in Spain. (Need to climb better)
LTG - Salbit West Ridge.
Mon - Rest. Battered from the previous week if I'm honest.
Tue - See physio. painful session on the left ITB, medial area, calf attachment thingy. Told not to boulder that evening... could hardly walk when I got off the table.
Wed - Pinnacle. Knee not the best but tried hard. Usual story of total stopper moves for my wrist and left pretty demotivated.
Thu - Hangboard. Not been on a campus rail in ages or hanging and boy, so much weaker.
Fri - Big Rock, MK. Really good session, playing on the V4-6 circuit. Sometimes too weak, then wrong sequence but did much better than I thought I would.
Sat - New members meet at Stanage. Big turnout. Led some stuff. Had the wobbles about gear ripping after it happened the other week but just held position for a while and then moved on.
Sun - Club meet at High Neb. No psyche after being there last week. Took some of the newer members up some easier stuff - made worth it when Holly gave a "woo, that was brilliant" at the top of Eric's Eliminate.
Physio killed on Tuesday but made the knee feel much better. Seeing her again this week tho - need to sort it.
Sore toes all week, which I'm guessing is down to weighting my feet better than I was before. No longer get pumped, I shouldn't at the grades I play on either but this makes me very happy. Larked around a bit on climbs this week, going for jams when I didn't need to etc and placing gear from harder positions than necessary and just feel like I'm climbing so much better despite being a whole lot weaker due to not training methodically.
Felt like the end of an era cancelling my membership at Pinnacle but I wanna make progress with my climbing and I think that can be done better elsewhere at the moment. Trips to the Peak midweek will be knackering but bouldering on limestone will be a lot better than being shut down on plastic every visit.
Post edited at 22:05
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly there Dan Dan, it's ace having a project to throw yersel' at innit! On the elbow front, mine only hurt (on the inside) when I do deep locks on the fingerboard (and then not so much if I warm 'em up with many press ups, straight and bent hangs and half pull ups first) - they don't hurt at all if I'm just out climbing. No idea if this helps, i.e. dunno if you do lots of full lock pull ups or not? Might help, might not.
Training Diary WC 20/04/15
Maximum Strength Training Week 2/3 /Project ‘Loop’
Monday – Slow steady warm up to fingerboard session made elbow not really hurt…hmm, lesson learned there. Matched PB of six pull ups on the 35’ slopers on the ol’ BM. Assisted 1 armers: 2 sets of 6 all -6.25kg. Much harder after giving it the beans on the first one, especially with less assistance. Set 1 = 2x10s, 2x6s, 2x2s sagging locks to 8s. Set 2 = 2x7s, 2x3s, 2 x5s. Offsets. Offset pull ups: 3 sets (1 set = 3 one side, 1 min rest then 3 other side). Less leg waving but last couple of last set more like ¾ pull ups. Hypergravity pull ups (+7.5KG): 2 sets of 8,1 set of 6 then two half pulls. So so compared to last session but did try hard on the rock yesterday though. Antagonistic bits and bobs to finish.
Tuesday – Run. 7.4KM, mostly off road, in 36:10. Not the best time wise but legs felt tired and digestion squiffy. Another glorious, greener evening – gotta love Spring!
Wednesday – Huntsham. Consolidated foot jam beta on Between The Lines (project) but the tiny crimp on the lip snapped on me so it’s now smaller and sharper so the problem will be a touch harder. Then went An Cap: reps of Ames High (7A+) and Ames Wol (7A+) (Ames Low reverse) as training for The Loop (8a). Managed 2 ascents of Ames High in 5 mins as first 2 reps. Consistently doing 12 – 15 moves on each rep after. 3 sets of 4 reps in total. Will give it more beans next time.
Thursday – Rest
Friday – Short an cap session on Ames Wol. Greasy as you like tonight (boy, did it need to rain) and every move was 'I'm off, I'm off, I'm of- oh, I'm still on.' Good practice for the hanging on in there that'll need to go on that section once redpointing starts in earnest. 12 – 15 moves per rep; 2 sets of 4 reps. Learned a bit of a lesson tonight; owing to time commitments, I got just 1hr at the crag for 2hrs of driving – should’ve gone to the wall and got 2hrs in for 1hr of driving, especially as conditions were poor.
Saturday – DIY club.
Sunday – Huntsham – working The Loop project (8a) with Tom. Perfect conditions. Warmed up climbed a first ascent of a 7A – no new moves but a great link. Then climbed Ames Wol (7A+) first go – really stoked on this as it has about 3 stopper moves on it. Onto Project Loop (8a) redpoints: climbed the first half (Ames High, 7A+) including the span move and cracked on around the easier bit down The Flakes (5+). Made it as far as the span move at the start of (Ames Wol) three times but just ran out of juice – approx. 15 moves to go. Wasn’t pumped but tired. Finished the session with a quick go at High Blow (Ames High into Golden Bicep) – fell out of the slap at the end. An ace session. No ‘progress’ on The Loop but much more solid/confident/smooth, especially on Ames High.
Weight = 70.9kg
Right then, goals:
Review of STG (by Easter):
So, still got them two 7B+ projects (Between The Lines and Underhand) to go (close on both, I think), more slopers needed and need to get on some 7A+s when out and about – new STGs right there.
MTG (by end of September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone.
Build a training wall in the loft.
Run an 18 min 5K.
Run a mile in 5 mins.
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them! Made a start – feels goooood!
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly there Dan Dan, it's ace having a project to throw yersel' at innit! On the elbow front, mine only hurt (on the inside) when I do deep locks on the fingerboard (and then not so much if I warm 'em up with many press ups, straight and bent hangs and half pull ups first) - they don't hurt at all if I'm just out climbing. No idea if this helps, i.e. dunno if you do lots of full lock pull ups or not? Might help, might not.
Training Diary WC 20/04/15
Maximum Strength Training Week 2/3 /Project ‘Loop’
Monday – Slow steady warm up to fingerboard session made elbow not really hurt…hmm, lesson learned there. Matched PB of six pull ups on the 35’ slopers on the ol’ BM. Assisted 1 armers: 2 sets of 6 all -6.25kg. Much harder after giving it the beans on the first one, especially with less assistance. Set 1 = 2x10s, 2x6s, 2x2s sagging locks to 8s. Set 2 = 2x7s, 2x3s, 2 x5s. Offsets. Offset pull ups: 3 sets (1 set = 3 one side, 1 min rest then 3 other side). Less leg waving but last couple of last set more like ¾ pull ups. Hypergravity pull ups (+7.5KG): 2 sets of 8,1 set of 6 then two half pulls. So so compared to last session but did try hard on the rock yesterday though. Antagonistic bits and bobs to finish.
Tuesday – Run. 7.4KM, mostly off road, in 36:10. Not the best time wise but legs felt tired and digestion squiffy. Another glorious, greener evening – gotta love Spring!
Wednesday – Huntsham. Consolidated foot jam beta on Between The Lines (project) but the tiny crimp on the lip snapped on me so it’s now smaller and sharper so the problem will be a touch harder. Then went An Cap: reps of Ames High (7A+) and Ames Wol (7A+) (Ames Low reverse) as training for The Loop (8a). Managed 2 ascents of Ames High in 5 mins as first 2 reps. Consistently doing 12 – 15 moves on each rep after. 3 sets of 4 reps in total. Will give it more beans next time.
Thursday – Rest
Friday – Short an cap session on Ames Wol. Greasy as you like tonight (boy, did it need to rain) and every move was 'I'm off, I'm off, I'm of- oh, I'm still on.' Good practice for the hanging on in there that'll need to go on that section once redpointing starts in earnest. 12 – 15 moves per rep; 2 sets of 4 reps. Learned a bit of a lesson tonight; owing to time commitments, I got just 1hr at the crag for 2hrs of driving – should’ve gone to the wall and got 2hrs in for 1hr of driving, especially as conditions were poor.
Saturday – DIY club.
Sunday – Huntsham – working The Loop project (8a) with Tom. Perfect conditions. Warmed up climbed a first ascent of a 7A – no new moves but a great link. Then climbed Ames Wol (7A+) first go – really stoked on this as it has about 3 stopper moves on it. Onto Project Loop (8a) redpoints: climbed the first half (Ames High, 7A+) including the span move and cracked on around the easier bit down The Flakes (5+). Made it as far as the span move at the start of (Ames Wol) three times but just ran out of juice – approx. 15 moves to go. Wasn’t pumped but tired. Finished the session with a quick go at High Blow (Ames High into Golden Bicep) – fell out of the slap at the end. An ace session. No ‘progress’ on The Loop but much more solid/confident/smooth, especially on Ames High.
Weight = 70.9kg
Right then, goals:
Review of STG (by Easter):
So, still got them two 7B+ projects (Between The Lines and Underhand) to go (close on both, I think), more slopers needed and need to get on some 7A+s when out and about – new STGs right there.
MTG (by end of September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone.
Build a training wall in the loft.
Run an 18 min 5K.
Run a mile in 5 mins.
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them! Made a start – feels goooood!
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Dandan:
Yeah, really sorry about that. Oops.
Climbing? I remember that. It's something I'm sure I used to to. I've really got to find time for session this week.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (same)
M - DIY
T - DIY
W - DIY
T - DIY
F - DIY
S - DIY
S - DIY
As the weather has been really nice and as I've been working at home (for the last week) meaning arranging deliveries and starting work on the project has been really easy, I've been getting the decking and Pergola for the garden done. Got the groundwork done last weekend. All the wood was delivered on Monday. I've then been doing 3/4 hours of work every evening on it. Had a bit of mid-week snafu with the concrete not setting properly. So had to redo a lot of work, finished the second bash on that in the dark at about 2130. It's mostly done now. The frame and the decking are all done. Cut all the joints for the Pergola and all the joists are ready. Just need to get it all put up. Hopefully this'll net me a lot of brownie points. Once this is done, the bulk of the planned DIY is largely done. I've got to sort out the workshop, but that'll only take a day.
Dyfi enduro next weekend, which I'm looking forward to. Been nice to get back on the bike.
Yeah, really sorry about that. Oops.
Climbing? I remember that. It's something I'm sure I used to to. I've really got to find time for session this week.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (same)
M - DIY
T - DIY
W - DIY
T - DIY
F - DIY
S - DIY
S - DIY
As the weather has been really nice and as I've been working at home (for the last week) meaning arranging deliveries and starting work on the project has been really easy, I've been getting the decking and Pergola for the garden done. Got the groundwork done last weekend. All the wood was delivered on Monday. I've then been doing 3/4 hours of work every evening on it. Had a bit of mid-week snafu with the concrete not setting properly. So had to redo a lot of work, finished the second bash on that in the dark at about 2130. It's mostly done now. The frame and the decking are all done. Cut all the joints for the Pergola and all the joists are ready. Just need to get it all put up. Hopefully this'll net me a lot of brownie points. Once this is done, the bulk of the planned DIY is largely done. I've got to sort out the workshop, but that'll only take a day.
Dyfi enduro next weekend, which I'm looking forward to. Been nice to get back on the bike.
In reply to Dandan:
Hi all, wanted to get involved with FitClub for a while, so here goes.
Been training consistently since November, guided (though by no means religiously so) by House's Training For The New Alpinism. Have had a lax couple of weeks since getting back from spending February and March climbing full-time in Scotland but now starting to ease back into regular sessions. This week was spent mainly trying to build the running mileage back up to its previous levels.
-----
M: 7.70km/201m trail run. HR Zone 3.
T: Went up to Llanberis for the day, got 3 decent multi-pitch routes in on the Mot. First proper time on rock this year, felt a bit sketchy at first but soon got into it. A good sign to be able to hit the ground running on routes of a similar standard to where I'd left off last year.
W: 8.87km/299m trail run. HR Zone 1.
T: 90 minute general strength session, circuits focusing mainly on core, with a few sets of pull-ups and push-ups.
F: Rest.
S: 9.76km/303m trail run. HR Zone 1.
S: Evening session at Symonds Yat. Partner bailed last minute so I went along anyway and soloed some easy stuff to get a bit of mileage in. Good to know it is doable after work now the evenings are longer.
----
As far as goals go, here are a few off the cuff ones.
STG (next week): Red Rose Speedway and The Druid, Symonds Yat; cumulative 36km w/1000m ascent next week.
MTG (by mid-June): 3x classic E1 before moving to Cham (Cemetery Gates, Plexus, The Plum); weight at 68kg (currently 70kg); be running trail half-marathon weekly.
LTG (end of year): Le Ginat, N Face of Les Droites.
Hi all, wanted to get involved with FitClub for a while, so here goes.
Been training consistently since November, guided (though by no means religiously so) by House's Training For The New Alpinism. Have had a lax couple of weeks since getting back from spending February and March climbing full-time in Scotland but now starting to ease back into regular sessions. This week was spent mainly trying to build the running mileage back up to its previous levels.
-----
M: 7.70km/201m trail run. HR Zone 3.
T: Went up to Llanberis for the day, got 3 decent multi-pitch routes in on the Mot. First proper time on rock this year, felt a bit sketchy at first but soon got into it. A good sign to be able to hit the ground running on routes of a similar standard to where I'd left off last year.
W: 8.87km/299m trail run. HR Zone 1.
T: 90 minute general strength session, circuits focusing mainly on core, with a few sets of pull-ups and push-ups.
F: Rest.
S: 9.76km/303m trail run. HR Zone 1.
S: Evening session at Symonds Yat. Partner bailed last minute so I went along anyway and soloed some easy stuff to get a bit of mileage in. Good to know it is doable after work now the evenings are longer.
----
As far as goals go, here are a few off the cuff ones.
STG (next week): Red Rose Speedway and The Druid, Symonds Yat; cumulative 36km w/1000m ascent next week.
MTG (by mid-June): 3x classic E1 before moving to Cham (Cemetery Gates, Plexus, The Plum); weight at 68kg (currently 70kg); be running trail half-marathon weekly.
LTG (end of year): Le Ginat, N Face of Les Droites.
2
In reply to Dandan:
Well I've ended the week battered so from a training point of view that's ok but given the weather during the week outdoor climbing has not been what I'd have hoped for.
M: Rest but took the bike out for 7 miles to see if it still turned after me throwing it in the shed caked in mud over a month ago.
T: Couldn't find anyone to go out with at short notice so ended up doing pull ups;
W: Group bike ride, nice night but not hard enough really, about 18 miles on trails but no big hills and too much waiting around for folk
T: Stockport didn't do loads but onsighted a 7a on the Mammut wall (first ever?) plus another but for an illegal hold used to clip.
F: Rest
S: Got to Kilnsey and felt smug that it was so warm and dry. Stick clipped up Truth Drug to warm up then the wind swung round and it turned Baltic, had three rubbish attempts on TR before I feared my belayer would expire and everyone fled the crag.
S: Another day that didn't go quite to plan! Partner had to cry off as we walked into Malham. Struggled to do FAEE then when I got to my target route someone was on it, I only chose the route because no one does it! One bolt to bolt (pulled on more draws than I did moves) then another TR go before it was stripped. Retro flashed the newly rebolted Bolt Revolt (good job someone) before forcing myself to do 3 laps of Consenting.
Well I've ended the week battered so from a training point of view that's ok but given the weather during the week outdoor climbing has not been what I'd have hoped for.
M: Rest but took the bike out for 7 miles to see if it still turned after me throwing it in the shed caked in mud over a month ago.
T: Couldn't find anyone to go out with at short notice so ended up doing pull ups;
W: Group bike ride, nice night but not hard enough really, about 18 miles on trails but no big hills and too much waiting around for folk
T: Stockport didn't do loads but onsighted a 7a on the Mammut wall (first ever?) plus another but for an illegal hold used to clip.
F: Rest
S: Got to Kilnsey and felt smug that it was so warm and dry. Stick clipped up Truth Drug to warm up then the wind swung round and it turned Baltic, had three rubbish attempts on TR before I feared my belayer would expire and everyone fled the crag.
S: Another day that didn't go quite to plan! Partner had to cry off as we walked into Malham. Struggled to do FAEE then when I got to my target route someone was on it, I only chose the route because no one does it! One bolt to bolt (pulled on more draws than I did moves) then another TR go before it was stripped. Retro flashed the newly rebolted Bolt Revolt (good job someone) before forcing myself to do 3 laps of Consenting.
In reply to Dandan: Another great week, at least the first half...
M - Boulder - Short session. Started on the red tags.
T - Tide Rising (7b+) @ Brean Down - Back again and another slightly unexpected f7b+ success. Worked a decent sequence quickly and got it on my second redpoint
W - Rest. Sunburned and lacking skin.
T - Work.
F - Boulder @ The Roaches - Lacklustre session after work. Got the The Undercut Traverse (f6B) after a few attempts flailed around a bit and then left.
S - Work.
S - Work.
M - Boulder - Short session. Started on the red tags.
T - Tide Rising (7b+) @ Brean Down - Back again and another slightly unexpected f7b+ success. Worked a decent sequence quickly and got it on my second redpoint
W - Rest. Sunburned and lacking skin.
T - Work.
F - Boulder @ The Roaches - Lacklustre session after work. Got the The Undercut Traverse (f6B) after a few attempts flailed around a bit and then left.
S - Work.
S - Work.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Back home this week so no more grit. Skin coped really well, given the abuse it received. Busy week & good weekend.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Evening routes at UCR but timed it all wrong - did a new 6b & 6b+ back-to-back as a warm-up. They were both awkward and scary so I ended up with cronic flash-pump and fell off pretty much everything else because of it.
W - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, coaching session with Ben. He got me trying the horrendous volume 7b, then a fingery 7c which was far more my sort of thing. It is really intersting and worth working.
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, bulk circuits up to 7a
F - S&C x 3
S - Portland, trying Hall of Mirrors. 3 tries on TR after which I'd got it down to mainly ok with a couple of cruxes still to be sorted
S - Portland, 2 more tries on HoM on TR. Think I now have viable sequences for the 2 bits I was stuck on.
It was an excellent weekend, although the weather was a bit dodgy at times. Tips have delaminated a bit as the grit thickening rubbed off, but nothing too bad. Keen for a return trip to start proper redpoint attempts on HoM - really think it will go with work. Need to write my sequence down now so I don't forget it!
Thanks Dan. Back home this week so no more grit. Skin coped really well, given the abuse it received. Busy week & good weekend.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Evening routes at UCR but timed it all wrong - did a new 6b & 6b+ back-to-back as a warm-up. They were both awkward and scary so I ended up with cronic flash-pump and fell off pretty much everything else because of it.
W - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, coaching session with Ben. He got me trying the horrendous volume 7b, then a fingery 7c which was far more my sort of thing. It is really intersting and worth working.
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, bulk circuits up to 7a
F - S&C x 3
S - Portland, trying Hall of Mirrors. 3 tries on TR after which I'd got it down to mainly ok with a couple of cruxes still to be sorted
S - Portland, 2 more tries on HoM on TR. Think I now have viable sequences for the 2 bits I was stuck on.
It was an excellent weekend, although the weather was a bit dodgy at times. Tips have delaminated a bit as the grit thickening rubbed off, but nothing too bad. Keen for a return trip to start proper redpoint attempts on HoM - really think it will go with work. Need to write my sequence down now so I don't forget it!
In reply to alexm198:
Welcome Alex. The Ginat! Ambitious - I like it. Will be happy to swap notes about House's training advice.
Cheers,
Andrew.
Welcome Alex. The Ginat! Ambitious - I like it. Will be happy to swap notes about House's training advice.
Cheers,
Andrew.
In reply to hms:
Big fan of HoM, do you have your sequence sorted now? It's been a long while but I could try to dredge up some beta advice if needed? I do have a video of me climbing it somewhere, can dig that out if you want it?
Big fan of HoM, do you have your sequence sorted now? It's been a long while but I could try to dredge up some beta advice if needed? I do have a video of me climbing it somewhere, can dig that out if you want it?
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan - I did indeed get a sequence sorted which seems to work for me but is different from that used by Ali & Curiousyellow. On first crux move they were fridge slapping the 2 aretes whereas I think I have to use a poor foot and more power to get higher and avoid the slaps. Then to get to the first good crimp up the L arete they were using a heel-hook which I coulnd't get to stick. Finally sussed I had to toe-hook instead. Got the rest sorted, so think redpointing is definitely the next step. Exciting!
Thanks Dan - I did indeed get a sequence sorted which seems to work for me but is different from that used by Ali & Curiousyellow. On first crux move they were fridge slapping the 2 aretes whereas I think I have to use a poor foot and more power to get higher and avoid the slaps. Then to get to the first good crimp up the L arete they were using a heel-hook which I coulnd't get to stick. Finally sussed I had to toe-hook instead. Got the rest sorted, so think redpointing is definitely the next step. Exciting!
In reply to Dandan: Cheers Dan!
M: Rest
T: Orme - Warmed up repeating "After the Gold Rush (6c)" then put clips in on "Mr. Chips" (7a) on the way down. It was in the full sun and greasy in the sun, impatiently waiting for the sun to go in but ended up going to early fired off a crimp on the last hard move.
Next go was in the shade, miles better conditions managed to tick it shaking out between all the moves. Satisfying!
Went down to the Hornby's and did "Wind and Worrying" (6b) a mega exposed stamina ~25m line. One of the best of the grade I've done for sure.
Was really hot in the sun so did some easy routes "Sundowner" (6a) and "Woo Woo" (6a+)
Good session but no skin left...
W: Rest
T: Aerocap - 25mins
F: Rest
S: Llanymynech - Went up to Nomad Wall tried a warm up onsight of "Nomad" (7a+) a mega classic 30m wall climb. Cruised all the way to the last bolt and went the wrong way on the crux. Wasn't too annoyed as for the first time in ages I fell off because I couldn't reverse the wrong sequence rather than falling off pumped.
Worked the crux then had a redpoint about half an hour later. In the full sun I found myself massively overgripping in the lower section and greasing on everything. Got to the crux and realised I was to pumped and hadn't worked the set up to the crux properly. Slack redpoint skills/should of waited for shade. Going to get back on it this week.
Nipped round the corner and did "Sack the Strugglers" (6c) short and sharp! Ended the day with a quick lap on the 35m 6b "Gaza Strippers"
S: Rest (Skin still sore)
Good week in all but couldn't face extra Aerocap sessions with such sore skin. I use coca butter cream but healing is slow. Maybe I should invest in something like "Climb on"?
Sticking to longer routes and aerocap training for awhile in prep for Ceuse in September/Diamond season.
Need to come up with some goals for the Ceuse trip too...
M: Rest
T: Orme - Warmed up repeating "After the Gold Rush (6c)" then put clips in on "Mr. Chips" (7a) on the way down. It was in the full sun and greasy in the sun, impatiently waiting for the sun to go in but ended up going to early fired off a crimp on the last hard move.
Next go was in the shade, miles better conditions managed to tick it shaking out between all the moves. Satisfying!
Went down to the Hornby's and did "Wind and Worrying" (6b) a mega exposed stamina ~25m line. One of the best of the grade I've done for sure.
Was really hot in the sun so did some easy routes "Sundowner" (6a) and "Woo Woo" (6a+)
Good session but no skin left...
W: Rest
T: Aerocap - 25mins
F: Rest
S: Llanymynech - Went up to Nomad Wall tried a warm up onsight of "Nomad" (7a+) a mega classic 30m wall climb. Cruised all the way to the last bolt and went the wrong way on the crux. Wasn't too annoyed as for the first time in ages I fell off because I couldn't reverse the wrong sequence rather than falling off pumped.
Worked the crux then had a redpoint about half an hour later. In the full sun I found myself massively overgripping in the lower section and greasing on everything. Got to the crux and realised I was to pumped and hadn't worked the set up to the crux properly. Slack redpoint skills/should of waited for shade. Going to get back on it this week.
Nipped round the corner and did "Sack the Strugglers" (6c) short and sharp! Ended the day with a quick lap on the 35m 6b "Gaza Strippers"
S: Rest (Skin still sore)
Good week in all but couldn't face extra Aerocap sessions with such sore skin. I use coca butter cream but healing is slow. Maybe I should invest in something like "Climb on"?
Sticking to longer routes and aerocap training for awhile in prep for Ceuse in September/Diamond season.
Need to come up with some goals for the Ceuse trip too...
In reply to Luke Owens:
Climb Skin is very good - not greasy like Climbon et al, indeed the blurb encourages you to apply before climbing. Think it certainly helped my tips survive a week of grit.
Climb Skin is very good - not greasy like Climbon et al, indeed the blurb encourages you to apply before climbing. Think it certainly helped my tips survive a week of grit.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing this.
M - Outside slab climbing, just 4 routes although one was 35m.
T - Climbing outside. After warm up had a few attempts on project; was fairly rubbish.
W - 40 mins run.
T - 40 mins run.
F -Resting
S - 40 mins run.
S - Resting.
Goals:
Stg (end May) - weight 11st or less
Mtg ( end June) - improved cardio fitness, weight down to under 10st 10.
Ltg (end of year) - red-point the project (7c)
Thanks for doing this.
M - Outside slab climbing, just 4 routes although one was 35m.
T - Climbing outside. After warm up had a few attempts on project; was fairly rubbish.
W - 40 mins run.
T - 40 mins run.
F -Resting
S - 40 mins run.
S - Resting.
Goals:
Stg (end May) - weight 11st or less
Mtg ( end June) - improved cardio fitness, weight down to under 10st 10.
Ltg (end of year) - red-point the project (7c)
In reply to planetmarshall:
Thanks Andrew. Haha yep, aiming high. I'm in Chamonix from June onwards so hopefully a summer of alpine climbing on top of regular training will put me in a good position to have a crack at it in the autumn. On that note, if you're out in the Alps this summer and need a partner, definitely drop me a message, it'd be good to get out together.
Thanks Andrew. Haha yep, aiming high. I'm in Chamonix from June onwards so hopefully a summer of alpine climbing on top of regular training will put me in a good position to have a crack at it in the autumn. On that note, if you're out in the Alps this summer and need a partner, definitely drop me a message, it'd be good to get out together.
In reply to hms:
I've un-finished business at the Cuttings - not sure when it'd fit in - but i'd be keen for a re-match.
Ally
I've un-finished business at the Cuttings - not sure when it'd fit in - but i'd be keen for a re-match.
Ally
In reply to Luke Owens:
SOunds like some great progress on the aero-cap front Luke - The Nomad wall routes are all about keeping your $hit together and being steady away on the high-up cruxes.
Skin wise - aero-cap, especially on a fingerboard can be brutal on the skin. I would recommend taping up for the training if you have an particular sore spots.
With regards to hand creams; hms' recommendation for Climb Skin is spot on - none of the greasy feeling you get from Climb On. Otherwise, the cheapo solution is E45, or indeed, just nick some of Danielle's hand cream before investing in a climbing specific moisturiser.
SOunds like some great progress on the aero-cap front Luke - The Nomad wall routes are all about keeping your $hit together and being steady away on the high-up cruxes.
Skin wise - aero-cap, especially on a fingerboard can be brutal on the skin. I would recommend taping up for the training if you have an particular sore spots.
With regards to hand creams; hms' recommendation for Climb Skin is spot on - none of the greasy feeling you get from Climb On. Otherwise, the cheapo solution is E45, or indeed, just nick some of Danielle's hand cream before investing in a climbing specific moisturiser.
In reply to Dandan:
Mixed bag this week:
- work presentation went well
- head full of snot
- 13c/8a+ second go (first time ever)
- fell off a 11b/6c slab multiple times!
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Increase An-cap
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Well Done finish
- Boulders: The Dark Room, 7C+/8A, 36 Chambers, 7C, Be Ruthless sit, 7C+, In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Dare not speaks its name Parisella’s Objective; 8A+/B
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Final day in the RRG: Not sure where I’ll be heading – lots of unfinished business – good excuse for a return trip this autumn, maybe including a side-trip to the NRG too?
- x3 S&C workouts in hotel
- Have some discipline and not stuff myself full of hotel buffet breakfasts!
- Nail my presentation in Houston and try to convince them to let give me an ex-pat job there.
- Get over the jet lag and do something with the long weekend
Last week:
M - 15 hours travelling; zero exercise
T - Drove a Mustang Shelby 350GT for $hits and giggles; x3 rounds S&C
W - Nowt. Ate too much.
T - Flew to the red – start of a sniffle. Slept in the trunk of the rental car at Miguels.
F - Met some randoms at Miguels and went to Drive-by. 11b warm-up, then bolt to bolt on Angry Birds, 13c. RP effort went really well, though train noises were evident from 2/3rds height! 1st time I’ve ever done 8a+ second go. 12a warm-down felt like hard work.
S - Head full of snot and rained overnight, so glad I got Brandon’s floor to sleep on. Went to Purgatory with 2nd batch of Miguel’s randoms. 10a warm-up, twice. 12c failed OS, simple RP once the crux slopers were brushed free of toothpaste like chalk. Got totally schooled on a 11b (f6c) slab. Fell off twice. TR crux clean on way down. Belayed on Paradise Lost (13a) and had 190lb Tim land on me after falling next to the 2nd clip. Had a flash go; fluffed the same clip but grabbed it instead of taking the plummet. Top arête was hard! Like a 30 degree board problem on slightly incut crimps. Exposed some weaknesses in my move portfolio.
S - Super snotty. Phantasia. 5.9+ warm-up. Twinkie, classic 12a, OS (AJM – if you go to the red this fall, this has your name all over it – one of the best things I’ve done in the RRG). Phantasia, 12d, failed OS, bolt-2-bolt, then fluffed RP – failing on very obvious crux in the middle of the roof.
Rest day today – bourbon distillery tour and some work.
Mixed bag this week:
- work presentation went well
- head full of snot
- 13c/8a+ second go (first time ever)
- fell off a 11b/6c slab multiple times!
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Increase An-cap
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Well Done finish
- Boulders: The Dark Room, 7C+/8A, 36 Chambers, 7C, Be Ruthless sit, 7C+, In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Dare not speaks its name Parisella’s Objective; 8A+/B
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Final day in the RRG: Not sure where I’ll be heading – lots of unfinished business – good excuse for a return trip this autumn, maybe including a side-trip to the NRG too?
- x3 S&C workouts in hotel
- Have some discipline and not stuff myself full of hotel buffet breakfasts!
- Nail my presentation in Houston and try to convince them to let give me an ex-pat job there.
- Get over the jet lag and do something with the long weekend
Last week:
M - 15 hours travelling; zero exercise
T - Drove a Mustang Shelby 350GT for $hits and giggles; x3 rounds S&C
W - Nowt. Ate too much.
T - Flew to the red – start of a sniffle. Slept in the trunk of the rental car at Miguels.
F - Met some randoms at Miguels and went to Drive-by. 11b warm-up, then bolt to bolt on Angry Birds, 13c. RP effort went really well, though train noises were evident from 2/3rds height! 1st time I’ve ever done 8a+ second go. 12a warm-down felt like hard work.
S - Head full of snot and rained overnight, so glad I got Brandon’s floor to sleep on. Went to Purgatory with 2nd batch of Miguel’s randoms. 10a warm-up, twice. 12c failed OS, simple RP once the crux slopers were brushed free of toothpaste like chalk. Got totally schooled on a 11b (f6c) slab. Fell off twice. TR crux clean on way down. Belayed on Paradise Lost (13a) and had 190lb Tim land on me after falling next to the 2nd clip. Had a flash go; fluffed the same clip but grabbed it instead of taking the plummet. Top arête was hard! Like a 30 degree board problem on slightly incut crimps. Exposed some weaknesses in my move portfolio.
S - Super snotty. Phantasia. 5.9+ warm-up. Twinkie, classic 12a, OS (AJM – if you go to the red this fall, this has your name all over it – one of the best things I’ve done in the RRG). Phantasia, 12d, failed OS, bolt-2-bolt, then fluffed RP – failing on very obvious crux in the middle of the roof.
Rest day today – bourbon distillery tour and some work.
Post edited at 21:21
In reply to Ally Smith: Cheers Ally/hms, I'll check out the Climb Skin.
Strong effort on the 2nd go 8a+ pal, going well! Sounds like you had a time!
Strong effort on the 2nd go 8a+ pal, going well! Sounds like you had a time!
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
absolutely! Next few weeks are a bit of a disaster area anyway but I'll mail with when I'm free - sure we can work something out.
absolutely! Next few weeks are a bit of a disaster area anyway but I'll mail with when I'm free - sure we can work something out.
In reply to hms:
Let me know if you're heading this way. There's always room to stay and beer to drink. I might even go climbing too
Let me know if you're heading this way. There's always room to stay and beer to drink. I might even go climbing too
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing FC Dandan! Annoying that your injuries popped up again during the holiday. Do you feel that eccentric exercises work for you? Felt like they worked great for my golfers elbow.
STG: Go running again -> did it so should be time for a new goal, but busy with exams, so I’ll skip the STG
MTG (summer): climb more outside
steady climb grade 6 outdoors (Norwegian grade)
weight: 68/70 kg
LTG (end of the year): climb a grade 7- or 7 outside -> ticked a 7- this week, so it should be a 7 or maybe even a 7+ for the end of the year.
Lead OS grade 6 indoor (though grading indoor is a bit soft, maybe 6+/7-)
Climb all the routes on duelifjell (2 pitch trad on slab up to 5+)
Weight: 71.3 kg
M: outdoor climbing, got scared on a trad 5-, moved over to bolt clipping. Onsighted a 5+ and 6- and repeated a 6.
T: rest
W: outdoor climbing: warmed up by repeating a 6, then did my first trad 6 and did my first ever 7- afterwards. Happy with the trad 6 and bolted 7-.
T: Shoulder and Core and dips, tried running, but was tired in the legs from commuting (need to conquer a 100hm hill both ways)
F: indoor bouldering, worked all the moves on a 7A
S: rest
S: went running to the climbing centre, warmed up, flashed a hearts (medium) route and then went for the 7A, which I didn’t manage and caused pain in my shoulder in the end, so quited and ran back home (+-8 km and 200hm)
Thanks for doing FC Dandan! Annoying that your injuries popped up again during the holiday. Do you feel that eccentric exercises work for you? Felt like they worked great for my golfers elbow.
STG: Go running again -> did it so should be time for a new goal, but busy with exams, so I’ll skip the STG
MTG (summer): climb more outside
steady climb grade 6 outdoors (Norwegian grade)
weight: 68/70 kg
LTG (end of the year): climb a grade 7- or 7 outside -> ticked a 7- this week, so it should be a 7 or maybe even a 7+ for the end of the year.
Lead OS grade 6 indoor (though grading indoor is a bit soft, maybe 6+/7-)
Climb all the routes on duelifjell (2 pitch trad on slab up to 5+)
Weight: 71.3 kg
M: outdoor climbing, got scared on a trad 5-, moved over to bolt clipping. Onsighted a 5+ and 6- and repeated a 6.
T: rest
W: outdoor climbing: warmed up by repeating a 6, then did my first trad 6 and did my first ever 7- afterwards. Happy with the trad 6 and bolted 7-.
T: Shoulder and Core and dips, tried running, but was tired in the legs from commuting (need to conquer a 100hm hill both ways)
F: indoor bouldering, worked all the moves on a 7A
S: rest
S: went running to the climbing centre, warmed up, flashed a hearts (medium) route and then went for the 7A, which I didn’t manage and caused pain in my shoulder in the end, so quited and ran back home (+-8 km and 200hm)
In reply to 0.5viking:
The eccentric exercises never used to result in any feedback from the muscles, as I understand it, they should aggravate the problem before improving it, so I never really persevered with them. This time the tennis elbow eccentric exercise hurts when I do it so i'm confident they will be more useful this time.
What my elbows will be like after the tennis elbow has (hopefully) been sorted is anyone's guess, will the old aches still be there? Has the problem shifted, or spread?
I've got a physio booked for 3 fridays time and they are going to do an ultrasound, might help get some more definitive answers to what exactly is going on in there...
The eccentric exercises never used to result in any feedback from the muscles, as I understand it, they should aggravate the problem before improving it, so I never really persevered with them. This time the tennis elbow eccentric exercise hurts when I do it so i'm confident they will be more useful this time.
What my elbows will be like after the tennis elbow has (hopefully) been sorted is anyone's guess, will the old aches still be there? Has the problem shifted, or spread?
I've got a physio booked for 3 fridays time and they are going to do an ultrasound, might help get some more definitive answers to what exactly is going on in there...
In reply to AJM:
Do I sense another UKCFC Portland meet? Keep me in the loop! I'll try not to break anything this time (Ally, it's not too late to ask me to chip in for the last breakage)
Do I sense another UKCFC Portland meet? Keep me in the loop! I'll try not to break anything this time (Ally, it's not too late to ask me to chip in for the last breakage)
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Convenient for me.....
I had an encouraging session at the wall this evening - ok I was blasted and didn't actually climb that much, but in felt like I was pulling relatively hard without pain...
Convenient for me.....
I had an encouraging session at the wall this evening - ok I was blasted and didn't actually climb that much, but in felt like I was pulling relatively hard without pain...
2
In reply to Dandan:
Sorry for being AWOL last week Dandan, and thanks for doing stats. I’ve had a couple of rubbish weeks both in terms of training and probably generally in terms of being a useful human being. Mum/grandma trip and visit to see friend in Edinburgh took out two weekends. Then organised a charity cyclesportive last week with 5, 25, 50 and 100mile courses. Spent the entire week running around after marshals and the entire weekend putting up signs, and then replacing them once busybody old ladies had taken them down. I’m tired and not particularly happy and I am definitely not climbing well.
13-19 April
M – Mum and grandma trip so 5 miles walk. Good boulder at Llangorse in the evening to 6b+ onsight.
T – drive mum and grandma back.
W – poddle at Brookes. Opened an account on 7b
T – Rest
F – Short lead Brookes to 6c
S/S – trip to Edinburgh so walking 8 miles and 10 miles. Traversed the bottom of the quarry under Arthur’s Seat in my trainers.
20-26 April
M- mixed session Brookes
T – 25 mile cycle testing course for sportive
W – work
T – work
F – work
S – a few routes and boulders as part of the BMC Masterclass at Reading.
S – cycled the 5 mile course to put out signs then drove around all day being the broom wagon and setting up feed stations
Sorry for being AWOL last week Dandan, and thanks for doing stats. I’ve had a couple of rubbish weeks both in terms of training and probably generally in terms of being a useful human being. Mum/grandma trip and visit to see friend in Edinburgh took out two weekends. Then organised a charity cyclesportive last week with 5, 25, 50 and 100mile courses. Spent the entire week running around after marshals and the entire weekend putting up signs, and then replacing them once busybody old ladies had taken them down. I’m tired and not particularly happy and I am definitely not climbing well.
13-19 April
M – Mum and grandma trip so 5 miles walk. Good boulder at Llangorse in the evening to 6b+ onsight.
T – drive mum and grandma back.
W – poddle at Brookes. Opened an account on 7b
T – Rest
F – Short lead Brookes to 6c
S/S – trip to Edinburgh so walking 8 miles and 10 miles. Traversed the bottom of the quarry under Arthur’s Seat in my trainers.
20-26 April
M- mixed session Brookes
T – 25 mile cycle testing course for sportive
W – work
T – work
F – work
S – a few routes and boulders as part of the BMC Masterclass at Reading.
S – cycled the 5 mile course to put out signs then drove around all day being the broom wagon and setting up feed stations
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for taking over Dan, you're doing a great job so far!
In short, Morocco was awesome, and any trad climbers on here should go! We had 12 climbing days, a variety of cragging, committing multi-pitch routes and mountaineering days. Summary below, although even this 'compact' version is pretty long. Highlights of the trip, and must-visit venues are The Thumb, Icebox Canyon and Tizghut Gorge.
M - Rest
T - Fly to Agadir
Part 1 - based at the Kasbah Tizourgane - highly recommended!
W - Cragging day at Tifghelt Col. 3 routes, 5 pitches. Just getting into it. Highlight was probably the first route, Survival of the Fittest (E2). A great intro!
T - More cragging at Tramline Slabs, partly to check out the approach to The Thumb. 4 routes, 5 pitches. Highlight was P1 of Going off the Rails (E2 5b) - a full 60m with strenuous crack climbing to start the bold slab at about 40m. I hadn't done such a long pitch for ages!
F - Sungold (E2) on The Thumb. Awesome route, did it in 5 long pitches. I ran together guidebook pitches 4 and 5, creating a monster pitch. Really had me working hard up the crux corner. Top end E2 (at least).
S - Meant to be taking it easy. Did Black Beauty (E1 5b) (in 5 pitches) then decided it was a good idea to quickly run up Pink Lady (VS 4c) (moving together). Then I dropped my belay plate and much faff ensued to retrieve it. Add in a bushwhack approach and descent and needless to say, it was not an easy day.
S - Back to Lower Eagle (with better approach beta). Quickly ticked off Moroccan Gold (E2 5c) (5 pitches, low in the grade) for a genuine easy day.
M - The hard day and a good candidate for the highlight of the trip. Only two routes: Icebreaker (E3 5c) and No match for climb id:357526 but they were the hardest yet. I was very pleased with my lead of the 6a (crux) pitch of NEP, managed to keep cool, rest on all the (abundant) good holds and place lots of bomber gear.
T - Transit/rest day
Part 2 - based in somebody's spare room in Tanalt, a small Berber village (population ~200) with good access to Samazar valley and some of the more 'adventurous' climbing in the region
W - Dragon Buttress. We'd heard great things about this crag, but my psyche was not running high. Maybe because of this I thought that the classic of the crag, Firesword (E1), was overrated. I enjoyed Brisingr (HVS) more. (Both are probably E1 on balance, with Firesword being upper end and Brisingr lower end).
T - Waterfall Walls, possibly the biggest wall in the valley with 9 long pitches on most of the routes. We went for The Way of the Pooka (E2 5b) due to 3* accolades in the guidebook. Lets just say I wouldn't recommend it (see my comments on the route). Combined with a bushwhack approach (not the 10 minutes suggested in the guidebook) and getting lost on the descent (downclimbing, abseil, bushwhack out), this wins 'most harrowing day of the trip' award.
F - A 'mountaineering' day on Labyrinth Ridge (VS 5a). A good day out, with plenty of interesting sections. Finished pretty early to drive to Tafraout.
Part 3 - based in Tafraout, where I did buy the inevitable carpet. The salesmen are very good!
S - Sailing the Aegean (E3 5c). Low in the grade for E3, but 4 good pitches, good rock and straightforward approach and descent.
S - Cragging day at one of the more historic venues, Tizgut Gorge (Crag R & Crag S). Climbed 3 routes, including Joe Brown's Tizgut Crack (E1 5b), but the highlight of the day was Tagine (E2 5c), full-on E2, sustained and well protected.
M - Last climbing day and travel back to Agadir. Went back to Icebox Canyon because we'd had a great day there before, but it was a bit of an anticlimax. The route we did, Polar Bear (E1 5b), wasn't great. My partner knocked a fair bit of rock down at me, fortunately missed.
Goals etc. back next week. I'm going to have a good think about what I want to do this summer and next winter.
> Nick Russell - Lots of climbing, awaiting further communication
Thanks for taking over Dan, you're doing a great job so far!
In short, Morocco was awesome, and any trad climbers on here should go! We had 12 climbing days, a variety of cragging, committing multi-pitch routes and mountaineering days. Summary below, although even this 'compact' version is pretty long. Highlights of the trip, and must-visit venues are The Thumb, Icebox Canyon and Tizghut Gorge.
M - Rest
T - Fly to Agadir
Part 1 - based at the Kasbah Tizourgane - highly recommended!
W - Cragging day at Tifghelt Col. 3 routes, 5 pitches. Just getting into it. Highlight was probably the first route, Survival of the Fittest (E2). A great intro!
T - More cragging at Tramline Slabs, partly to check out the approach to The Thumb. 4 routes, 5 pitches. Highlight was P1 of Going off the Rails (E2 5b) - a full 60m with strenuous crack climbing to start the bold slab at about 40m. I hadn't done such a long pitch for ages!
F - Sungold (E2) on The Thumb. Awesome route, did it in 5 long pitches. I ran together guidebook pitches 4 and 5, creating a monster pitch. Really had me working hard up the crux corner. Top end E2 (at least).
S - Meant to be taking it easy. Did Black Beauty (E1 5b) (in 5 pitches) then decided it was a good idea to quickly run up Pink Lady (VS 4c) (moving together). Then I dropped my belay plate and much faff ensued to retrieve it. Add in a bushwhack approach and descent and needless to say, it was not an easy day.
S - Back to Lower Eagle (with better approach beta). Quickly ticked off Moroccan Gold (E2 5c) (5 pitches, low in the grade) for a genuine easy day.
M - The hard day and a good candidate for the highlight of the trip. Only two routes: Icebreaker (E3 5c) and No match for climb id:357526 but they were the hardest yet. I was very pleased with my lead of the 6a (crux) pitch of NEP, managed to keep cool, rest on all the (abundant) good holds and place lots of bomber gear.
T - Transit/rest day
Part 2 - based in somebody's spare room in Tanalt, a small Berber village (population ~200) with good access to Samazar valley and some of the more 'adventurous' climbing in the region
W - Dragon Buttress. We'd heard great things about this crag, but my psyche was not running high. Maybe because of this I thought that the classic of the crag, Firesword (E1), was overrated. I enjoyed Brisingr (HVS) more. (Both are probably E1 on balance, with Firesword being upper end and Brisingr lower end).
T - Waterfall Walls, possibly the biggest wall in the valley with 9 long pitches on most of the routes. We went for The Way of the Pooka (E2 5b) due to 3* accolades in the guidebook. Lets just say I wouldn't recommend it (see my comments on the route). Combined with a bushwhack approach (not the 10 minutes suggested in the guidebook) and getting lost on the descent (downclimbing, abseil, bushwhack out), this wins 'most harrowing day of the trip' award.
F - A 'mountaineering' day on Labyrinth Ridge (VS 5a). A good day out, with plenty of interesting sections. Finished pretty early to drive to Tafraout.
Part 3 - based in Tafraout, where I did buy the inevitable carpet. The salesmen are very good!
S - Sailing the Aegean (E3 5c). Low in the grade for E3, but 4 good pitches, good rock and straightforward approach and descent.
S - Cragging day at one of the more historic venues, Tizgut Gorge (Crag R & Crag S). Climbed 3 routes, including Joe Brown's Tizgut Crack (E1 5b), but the highlight of the day was Tagine (E2 5c), full-on E2, sustained and well protected.
M - Last climbing day and travel back to Agadir. Went back to Icebox Canyon because we'd had a great day there before, but it was a bit of an anticlimax. The route we did, Polar Bear (E1 5b), wasn't great. My partner knocked a fair bit of rock down at me, fortunately missed.
Goals etc. back next week. I'm going to have a good think about what I want to do this summer and next winter.
1
In reply to Dandan:
The exercises never really hurted like the descriptions say it should, but I started immediately after the pain appeared, so I guess I was early in starting the exercises. Hopefully they will work for you now and that you get rid of the elbow pains.
Good luck at the physio tomorrow and hopefully the ultrasound will give some positive answers about the situation.
The exercises never really hurted like the descriptions say it should, but I started immediately after the pain appeared, so I guess I was early in starting the exercises. Hopefully they will work for you now and that you get rid of the elbow pains.
Good luck at the physio tomorrow and hopefully the ultrasound will give some positive answers about the situation.
In reply to 0.5viking:
Cheers, physio isn't for a couple of weeks unfortunately, so I've got that time to try and gauge the effectiveness of the exercises. I'm reasonably sure it is easing things already though...
Cheers, physio isn't for a couple of weeks unfortunately, so I've got that time to try and gauge the effectiveness of the exercises. I'm reasonably sure it is easing things already though...
In reply to Dandan:
I've not been posting recently. I'm in a massive black hole for psyche at the moment. Plodding on with training and have booked a sport climbing holiday to South France in July. Trying to save a bit of cash up though for a new car and a house/flat and the like which means petrol has taken a knock on the head. Running, golf, eating out and visiting London are also swallowing time and the spare petrol change.
I've not been posting recently. I'm in a massive black hole for psyche at the moment. Plodding on with training and have booked a sport climbing holiday to South France in July. Trying to save a bit of cash up though for a new car and a house/flat and the like which means petrol has taken a knock on the head. Running, golf, eating out and visiting London are also swallowing time and the spare petrol change.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Leave has started
Just on way back from Wales where we slept a lot, ran a bit and ate a lot. Lovely relaxing break doing nothing.
Last week was highs and lows as far as climbing went. I actually got out and climbed on real rock! First time in over a year. Had fun in a little local quarry. Really good fun VS, E3 6a ( top rope ), E1 and e25c (top rope). All the routes went through a horizontal roof and short and v bouldery. Not my style and glad I chose the tr on the e3. It wouldn't have been pretty. Great evening out and felt well psyched.
Next day was a routes session. I purposefully didn't do any falling in the warm up to see how I was progressing. I was also back on the mammut wall after a while away from its steep delights. Terrible terrible session. Hot and humid with perma sweaty hands, kept fading very quickly and couldn't try hard mentally or physically. Failed on a 6c+ Onsight for the first time in months as I just couldn't make myself go for it. Dropped the grade down, did some easy routes and still felt crap. Decided to blast up another 6c+ at the end as its my favourite in the centre atm. Cruised up it and felt I could have lapped it when I got down. Totally mental issues. My partner was climbing well and a mate was lapping the 8a on the mammut, so conditions werent that bad were they?
Learnt a lot. Falling practice is still essential for me. Not fit enough to do back to back days and it would have been much more worthwhile to do some falling practice and easier laps. Pride got in the way and I was stubborn.
Cheers Dan. Leave has started
Just on way back from Wales where we slept a lot, ran a bit and ate a lot. Lovely relaxing break doing nothing.
Last week was highs and lows as far as climbing went. I actually got out and climbed on real rock! First time in over a year. Had fun in a little local quarry. Really good fun VS, E3 6a ( top rope ), E1 and e25c (top rope). All the routes went through a horizontal roof and short and v bouldery. Not my style and glad I chose the tr on the e3. It wouldn't have been pretty. Great evening out and felt well psyched.
Next day was a routes session. I purposefully didn't do any falling in the warm up to see how I was progressing. I was also back on the mammut wall after a while away from its steep delights. Terrible terrible session. Hot and humid with perma sweaty hands, kept fading very quickly and couldn't try hard mentally or physically. Failed on a 6c+ Onsight for the first time in months as I just couldn't make myself go for it. Dropped the grade down, did some easy routes and still felt crap. Decided to blast up another 6c+ at the end as its my favourite in the centre atm. Cruised up it and felt I could have lapped it when I got down. Totally mental issues. My partner was climbing well and a mate was lapping the 8a on the mammut, so conditions werent that bad were they?
Learnt a lot. Falling practice is still essential for me. Not fit enough to do back to back days and it would have been much more worthwhile to do some falling practice and easier laps. Pride got in the way and I was stubborn.
In reply to biscuit:
Which one? I can't make the description fit anywhere I've been, you're not getting into Lancs esoteria are you? Pinfold?!!
Not that this means anything but me too, couldn't do the last clip
> Had fun in a little local quarry.
Which one? I can't make the description fit anywhere I've been, you're not getting into Lancs esoteria are you? Pinfold?!!
> Failed on a 6c+ Onsight for the first time in months as I just couldn't make myself go for it.
Not that this means anything but me too, couldn't do the last clip
In reply to Tyler:
I didn't make it that far on the 6c+
Yes it was pinfold. Nearest crag, short of time, sunny in evenings. Did the Necromicon variations and I think two scoop or not to scoop - or rather I didn't do that one.
Ousels nest next I think. That looks pretty good.
I didn't make it that far on the 6c+
Yes it was pinfold. Nearest crag, short of time, sunny in evenings. Did the Necromicon variations and I think two scoop or not to scoop - or rather I didn't do that one.
Ousels nest next I think. That looks pretty good.
In reply to Dandan:
How do dandan,
An excellent week, really motivated still but not taking many notes. The plant based diet is still going well, but it's surprising how much dairy there is in everyday food. For some reason I was surprised that cheese is in cheese and onion crisps. Not sure why that came as a shock but it did.
Only real highlight from last week was beating my PB on the bike on Tuesday. Been doing abiy more cycling recently. Back to the climbing stuff again soon tho.
Will be vague notes again on Sunday but I ptomise (to myself if no one else) to record some impressive feats of training in the next week while on holiday. Maybe I will break my own press up record or something.
Keep the mojos up everyone!
How do dandan,
An excellent week, really motivated still but not taking many notes. The plant based diet is still going well, but it's surprising how much dairy there is in everyday food. For some reason I was surprised that cheese is in cheese and onion crisps. Not sure why that came as a shock but it did.
Only real highlight from last week was beating my PB on the bike on Tuesday. Been doing abiy more cycling recently. Back to the climbing stuff again soon tho.
Will be vague notes again on Sunday but I ptomise (to myself if no one else) to record some impressive feats of training in the next week while on holiday. Maybe I will break my own press up record or something.
Keep the mojos up everyone!
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