UKC

Hello,

I'm off to font for a week this weekend, hurrah!

Now, whats the top 10 problems in the 6's, I've always used the jingo wobbly guide and just worked round circuits however the last time I was there I tried 2 6bs on the last day I was there and flashed them so I’ve bought the 5+6 guide book and have the other purple guide but I’m struggling for inspiration, almost too much to choose from?

I was going to try marie rose, and then trawl through bleau.info to make a list of notable problems but I thought I’d also ask the wider collective for any advice.

I enjoy overhanging/powerful climbing.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Rob

In reply to robal:

Duroxmanie

/thread

In reply to robal:

More seriously:

Moondance - 6a - Franchard Cuisiniere
L'Etrave (B25) - 6a -Buthiers
Surplomb Statique - 6a+ - Franchard Isatis
La Superbe - 6a+ - Franchard Cuisiniere
Le Toit de Loupe - 6b - Elephant
Le Flipper - 6b - 91.1
Direct du Culots (B23) - 6b - Buthiers
Duel dans la Lune - 6c - 95.2
Conquerance - 6c - Isatis Haute Plaines
Duroxmanie - 6c - Cuvier Est

In reply to Hamfunk:

fantastic! Thanks for those, I tried le flipper maybe 3 or 4 trips ago and couldnt get off the ground, it'd be quite interesting to see how I go this time


I like the look of conquerance and duroxmanie!

In reply to Hamfunk:

+1 for Duel dans la lune at 95.2 : Best roof I have ever done, fantastic problem.

arachnee (6b) at gorge aux chats is another really good overhanging problem.
chapeau chinois (6b) at roche aux sabot is also great problem on steep ground

I have done la marie rose on a really cold morning, but tried it again recently on a hot day and just couldn't get close - worth getting the conditions just right.

In reply to robal:

La Balafre, 6A, Salmon 24 at Apremont is definitely on this list, highball!

In reply to robal:

Travaux forces - Gorge aux Chats - http://bleau.info/chats/1546.html

In reply to robal:

hi chaps, this is all good stuff, I'm going to have to spend the evening going over the guide and formulating a plan!

thanks

In reply to robal:
Also
Surplomb de la Coquille (Conquérance) f6C / V5
Between Isatis and Sablons.

already on the list above, oops!

In reply to robal:

Another gem at Isatis is L'Angle du Serac (white 40, 6b+) - absolutely mega! Also check out La Voie Michaud (black 22, 6c) at Elephant for some thuggery and Cortomaltese (6c+) at Bas cuvier

In reply to robal:

It's worth seeking out anything in 5&6's with a black star against it. I think Rocher Canon has a high density of black stars in these grades.

In reply to robal:

big jim, petit bois. Maybe not your style, highball wall on pockets with a big last move: exciting.

surplomb de marbre, buthiers. Everything on that boulder is good (and quite high).

Cuvier est is good for 6's.

In reply to robal:
this is ace guys!

good tip on the black stars in the 5+6 book. I hadn’t noticed that, I know people rave about the 5+6 and 7+8 books but after having browsed through I didn’t quite get it. Its odd how book styles seem to be almost marmite…

I do like a bit of thuggery plus highballs on pockets sound good, I’ve added them to the list.

I’m back again in august too so I’m hoping that this trip could be a stepping stone to higher grades too!

In reply to Hamfunk:

Le Superbe is great. Definitely worth a visit to Franchard for this problem alone.