UKC

Jack Geldard reviews a selected guide to rock climbs around the Mont Blanc Massif and the Aiguilles Rouge.

"Despite knowing the area well, this little book has given me some new ideas of places to climb, and inspired me to revisit some old favourites with either new routes in mind, or just a desire to climb again on the perfect golden granite of the Mont Blanc Massif..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7344

In reply to UKC Gear:

Need to get a copy of this for the summer! What are people's route suggestions for a first trip to the area?

In reply to Natalie Berry - UKC:

Hey Nat, anything up at the Envers hut would be my suggestion. There are quite a few routes in this book up at that area. It does get a bit busy, but if you can be up there midweek and quite flexible with what routes you want to do then, there are loads to go at, maybe a UKC 'team building day'....

J

In reply to UKC Gear:

Jack. Any chance of a list of included routes?

Cheers.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Its interesting that this book was published in French 6 years ago, so its not new. I was very disappointed with the Ecrins book in the same series. Although it looked like a new book it had been published in French in 2006 and some of the pictures looked a lot older than that. All areas of the Alps are seeing rapid glacial retreat and having up to date information, not something written many years ago is essential. A much better resource for the middle grade climber in the Mont Blanc region is the fantastic information in English curated by Gus Morton http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/funalps/

More routes, free and more up to date.

In reply to Tom Last:

Hi Tom, I'll see if Vertebrate will post one.
Cheers.
J

In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:

Cheers Jack.

In reply to Tom Last:

If you have a look at Vertebrate's page and click on the "Look inside" button under the cover picture you should be able to have a look at the contents page:
http://bit.ly/1FcXvhW

Just bought this because I'm a sucker for a guidebook and I can leave it strategically lying around when prospective alpine partners come around.

In reply to philipjardine:



And who pays for the bolts??

Get the Piola guide.

In reply to Rick Graham:



Exactly Rick. Sadly that's not a concept that Gus Morton or his supporters understand.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Got my set of Piola guides for another great summer in Cham. The guy deserves a medal.

In reply to jon:

This could also be a ( cheeky) prompt to get the official Rockfax position

In reply to Rick Graham:

Is the new Piola guide (Envers) different to the old one or just a fancy re-print?

In reply to galpinos:


No date visible in my copy, but I think it is the latest one with recent routes and re equiping details.

So probably more than just a fancy reprint, but is that the point?

In reply to Rick Graham:

Sorry, I wasn't trying to make a point (o agree with you, buy the Piola), I was just wondering whether I should get the new one if there was a load more stuff in it.

In reply to galpinos:
As far as I know there's no new Envers guide (could there be a reprint, perhaps?). The modern series of Piola guides are:

Envers des Aiguilles (French) 2006
Envers des Aiguilles (English) 2007
Aiguilles Rouges Vol 1 (French) 2008
Aiguilles Rouges Vol 1 (English) 2009
Aiguilles Rouges Vol 2 Light (French) 2012

The Aigs Rouges Vol 2 is as the name 'Light' suggests, an interim guide before the definitive. Not sure when the definitive is due out, but it will be in English and not in French. About three quarters of it is already translated so whether it'll be ready for this year is anybody's guess.

In reply to jon:

Jon, cheers for the info. My Piola guide was bought when I worked in Snell Sports in 2004 so getting a little old, the Envers guide seemed to have the same photos and topos just in a nicer package. I think I'll start investing in the Aiguille Rouges ones.....

In reply to Nick Barnard:

Thanks Nick

In reply to galpinos:

Good. We agree then. Not trying to have a go at you BTW just reminding folk that all the fixed protection and belays do not appear by magic.

Impressed if you have run out of routes to do in any Piola guide. Just to have done the routes list is impressive, never mind equipping them, re equiping them ( and doing the first ascent), oh and working out a way of financing the material cost.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Ha ha! I have neither the time nor ability for that to ever be a problem, I do love a new guide book though.....