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groups at auchinstarry crag

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 GallaghA3 14 May 2015

Just returned from auchinstarry this evening.

Unfortunately St Al******s school, Glasgow decided to show up.

The pupils were fantastic and exemplary in their behaviour, in fact they could have taught the staff with them a thing it two about manners!

Top ropes were dropped off everything in sight of the car park and routes to either side monopolized. Despite staff initially indicating they would share routes, when they were asked if this would be possible they refused.

Staff appeared to think they were down their local gym, shouting beta and showing a general lack of regard for other climbers.

This is not the way to teach youngsters manners and etiquette. Climbing is a sport that can do so much for young people and part of the learning should be to encourage a consideration of others.

A second party at the crag behaved entirely differently and was a pleasure to be around.
Post edited at 18:56
In reply to GallaghA3:
Don't know about the crag etiquette but on the other hand it's good to see a school with a really active climbing club and the nerve to take the kids to climb outside.
Post edited at 21:48
OP GallaghA3 15 May 2015
In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Yep! Absolutely brilliant. They're great climbers and they were a pleasure to be near. They were most definitely not the problem.
 alex_arthur 16 May 2015
In reply to GallaghA3:
As long as all the top ropes were being used I don't understand your complaint? They were there first and are free to climb wherever they choose. There are plenty of other routes at auchinstarry a short walk away from the car park.

Different if a top rope had been set up but was not being used by anyone, effectively blocking the route. I expect a quick word to the instructor would resolve this.

As for "shouting beta", again I'm confused as to what your upset about? Sounds like pretty standard communication between climbers. In what way did they show you a lack of regard? I wouldn't expect this at the indoor wall either!
Post edited at 09:21
 fmck 16 May 2015
In reply to GallaghA3:

I was at the quadrocks that night all by myself. Must admit it was a bit lonely up there but lovely evening.
 Alex Slipchuk 17 May 2015
In reply to GallaghA3:

Seems like the ideal venue for a school group.

What exactly was the problem?

If your not fast you're last.

 Milesy 17 May 2015
In reply to Alex Slipchuk:

I agree with the issue that if you're top rop
 Milesy 17 May 2015
In reply to Alex Slipchuk:

I agree with the issue that if you're top roping a route then if someone wants to lead it between top rope climbers then you need to be reasonable. To outright refuse to let someone climb it is poor cragmanship.
 kwoods 17 May 2015
In reply to Alex Slipchuk:
> Seems like the ideal venue for a school group.

> What exactly was the problem?

> If your not fast you're last.

TBH inclined to agree with this - good on them, I've seen them there (and climbed routes around about them) and haven't had a problem. Respect for getting them out climbing. Do you have an issue with the staff? I didn't feel their presence wasn't a problem. And anyway, the car park crag is blown to bits and a bit shoddy anyway, if theres anywhere I'd take kids for convenience it would be there.

Perhaps a private letter to the school might be better than a public rant on UKC?
Post edited at 22:13
Anonymous 17 May 2015
In reply to GallaghA3:

"A second party at the crag behaved entirely differently and was a pleasure to be around"

Thanks for that ! I'll pass that compliment on to the kids I was there with (Yes, I was their Teacher).
 jimjimjim 18 May 2015
In reply to Alex Slipchuk:



> If your not fast you're last.

How can you get one wrong then one right in such a short sentence?
Pedant I know but come on....
 PPP 18 May 2015
In reply to GallaghA3:

I was wondering whether it is okay to bring your own belay stakes, hammer them in and then remove them (I hope they did!) after use? That's what happened on Saturday with a group of scouts. Auchinstarry has lots of anchors, but I did not question why they did this. They also tri-loaded a single screwgate for top-roping and then tried the anchor while leaning on the rope and bouncing. On a dynamic rope. I didn't see the point, but "they know it better!".
 Milesy 18 May 2015
In reply to kwoods:

> TBH inclined to agree with this - good on them, I've seen them there (and climbed routes around about them) and haven't had a problem. Respect for getting them out climbing. Do you have an issue with the staff? I didn't feel their presence wasn't a problem. And anyway, the car park crag is blown to bits and a bit shoddy anyway, if theres anywhere I'd take kids for convenience it would be there.

I hate climbing at the car park... I prefer leading a VS up the back then a Severe in the car park but I still take beginners from our club to the car park area. You aren't addressing the only concern I mentioned which is refusing anyone else a shot at all on a route you have put a top rope on. That ain't cricket.
 Milesy 18 May 2015
In reply to PPP:

To be fair is is probably better than that poor tree at the top which gets pretty well abused. There used to be more insitu stakes at the top area before the council decimated it.
 PPP 18 May 2015
In reply to Milesy:

Well, I agree that the main tree gets quite a lot of abuse (though there's no visible damage on it), but surely, hammering in stakes and removing them every time someone wants an anchor is not ideal solution either? Still, probably better than bolting Loudon Hill!

I am not sure how much damage is done every time the stakes are hammered in, but I suppose that after N times the ground will not be as good. Or maybe that's just me being paranoid...

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