In reply to Dandan:
Bad luck comes in three’s! The concussion/headache finally started to recede at the tail end of last week, but climbing all day Saturday made me feel rubbish again. I also manked a finger on my right-hand and hit my left thumb with a hammer.
Things can only get better…
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger.
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the concussion & concussion induced fatigue – feels better when I wear contact lenses and move my head around less.
- Finish bolting/cleaning Orme project (needs a belay and maybe an extra runner).
- Keep up the aero-cap pootling (maybe do a comparative foot-on campus test if feeling better?)
- Aim for 75.5kg (76.1kg currently)
Last week:
M - Headache receding – limited to pain whilst moving my head with any speed. Felt good enough to do some aero-cap. 1 on/off foot-on campus x15 sets, finished with some press-ups.
T - Persistent headache almost gone. Gentle session on Mayfair wall; 7b+ RP. Cave pootle was less successful; dropped off cave life start and jarred my head again. D’oh! Cocodamol induced nausea; bleurgh!
W - Neck stiff again; rest.
T - Felt frazzled from work, but better after an aero-cap session. 1 on/off foot-on campus x15 sets.
F - Rest – frazzled again
S - Malham. Got pumped on Consenting! Worked Zoolook/Well Done (8a/8b). 2nd go amazed myself and did Zoolook in two. Burst a blood vessel in finger on WD and suffered numb/purple finger for rest of day. Dogged Straightened/Straight Jacket (8a/8b); improved my sequence on cruxes of Straightened and Baboo.
S - Obviously went too big too soon. Headache returned and felt weak as a kitten. Went to the Orme and did some bolting/cleaning of a new route. Hit thumb with hammer! Pulled 2 of the good holds off and made it much harder than I thought it was going to be!