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In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Congrats on the ascent to young Pete, sounds utterly awesome.
Look forward to see how many spotters he had after Bentley's Barmy Army!
It's arguably a better line given how easy it is to get lost on Indian Face too, but I believe there's a slight error on the news page crediting NS as first E9 rather than IF from 1986. First grit E9 maybe?
Congrats on the ascent to young Pete, sounds utterly awesome.
Look forward to see how many spotters he had after Bentley's Barmy Army!
It's arguably a better line given how easy it is to get lost on Indian Face too, but I believe there's a slight error on the news page crediting NS as first E9 rather than IF from 1986. First grit E9 maybe?
In reply to Paz: 1st quarried grit E9...
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Top effort. This has always been one of 'the' grit lines (for me anyway). Fantastic.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Is it really just the 4th accent? It surely has seen a few more accents than that.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Wow - but looking at the photo I'm sure he has three hands!?
Wow - but looking at the photo I'm sure he has three hands!?
Will somebody detail the case for it being E9; this is the first time in its long existence that I have heard this grade mooted.
JAMIE B>
JAMIE B>
In reply to Jamie B.:
Pete doesnt say anything about it being E9, but it is certainly the hardest thing he has ever done. And he has done a fair few other E8's
Pete doesnt say anything about it being E9, but it is certainly the hardest thing he has ever done. And he has done a fair few other E8's
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Does this mean you get your grey metolius tcu back now then?
In reply to Jamie B.: Some bloke called Dawes suggested E9 7a when he tried it in the mid 80s.....
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Pic could do with being 1/2 the size and brighter, BTW. I can only see a little bit at once and it's a bit dark.
Pic could do with being 1/2 the size and brighter, BTW. I can only see a little bit at once and it's a bit dark.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Oooh dear- Must have got a microscopic particle lodged in the works....
In reply to Fiend:
Thats just your machine, its fine on mine. As for brightness, will have to photoshop it
Thats just your machine, its fine on mine. As for brightness, will have to photoshop it
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
it could do with being a smaller pic adam - ok it'll work if anyones got the auto resize option ticked in IE but would be better to be smaller. if most peopls scrrens are 1024x768 then the dimentions of the photo should't exceed this.
it could do with being a smaller pic adam - ok it'll work if anyones got the auto resize option ticked in IE but would be better to be smaller. if most peopls scrrens are 1024x768 then the dimentions of the photo should't exceed this.
In reply to m@:
Yes, and from underneath it actually looks less climbable than Parthian Shot, through a punter's eyes anyway. Not arguing about the grade; not in a position to do so; just fascinated as attaching E9 to it would subtly adjust gritstone history.
JAMIE B>
> have you ever been and looked at it?
Yes, and from underneath it actually looks less climbable than Parthian Shot, through a punter's eyes anyway. Not arguing about the grade; not in a position to do so; just fascinated as attaching E9 to it would subtly adjust gritstone history.
JAMIE B>
In reply to Adam Lincoln: no, the pic IS too big to show all at once on my 17" screen...is a bit dark too...
In reply to Ian Hill:
Ok y'all, new pic, resized and lightened
http://server2.uploadit.org/files/271003-statesmanchanged.jpg
Ok y'all, new pic, resized and lightened
http://server2.uploadit.org/files/271003-statesmanchanged.jpg
In reply to Adam Lincoln: not only lightened but you moved the climber as well!
can you get the ground in so we can see how high up he is?
can you get the ground in so we can see how high up he is?
In reply to Ian Hill:
Not got any with ground, needed to be pretty zoomed in to try and muster some light from the background(Not very well admittidley!)
Not got any with ground, needed to be pretty zoomed in to try and muster some light from the background(Not very well admittidley!)
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Dark? thats pathetic, who's going to go for the first ascent in ideal photogenic conditions
Dark? thats pathetic, who's going to go for the first ascent in ideal photogenic conditions
I am sorry to bring up this old argument, and i am not trying to take anything away from anyone, BUT...
How do the reporters, climbers, photographers or anyone else involved know that this is the 4th accent?
Do they have a secret webcam recording anything that happens at everycrag?
PIES
How do the reporters, climbers, photographers or anyone else involved know that this is the 4th accent?
Do they have a secret webcam recording anything that happens at everycrag?
PIES
In reply to Anonymous:
4th reported ascent then. There may be someone out there who is very, very good that no-one knows about going around repeating E8s and E9s, but I find it hard to believe. Climbing is a very small world and Ilkley is a very public crag. You'd have to make a real effort to do this route without anyone knowing about it!
> How do the reporters, climbers, photographers or anyone else involved know that this is the 4th accent?
4th reported ascent then. There may be someone out there who is very, very good that no-one knows about going around repeating E8s and E9s, but I find it hard to believe. Climbing is a very small world and Ilkley is a very public crag. You'd have to make a real effort to do this route without anyone knowing about it!
In reply to m@:
#Bloody ell its better to dark pix than none at all.
Good effort pete.
J
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
>
> excellent ascent, rubbish photos!
>
>
> excellent ascent, rubbish photos!
>
#Bloody ell its better to dark pix than none at all.
Good effort pete.
J
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
f.a.o Pete
Not good enough pete you must try harder
wait till Ryans back gets better!!!!
f.a.o Pete
Not good enough pete you must try harder
wait till Ryans back gets better!!!!
In reply to geoffm:
Boyo is back, but did bugger all out there after hurting his back on Midnight Lightning! Plonker
Boyo is back, but did bugger all out there after hurting his back on Midnight Lightning! Plonker
Is J Dunne's FA of New Statesman less disputed than his FA of Parthian Shot? In other words, is there more evidence?
If so, suggestions that NS may in fact be E9 would give added credence to his claim to the FA of PS (E9 7a).
If so, suggestions that NS may in fact be E9 would give added credence to his claim to the FA of PS (E9 7a).
In reply to JonC:
You will never be able to satisfy everyone about that. JD has done much harder routes(technically)than New Statesman on Limestone so I don't really see why his technical ability ever was brought into question. Sour Grapes, methinks.
You will never be able to satisfy everyone about that. JD has done much harder routes(technically)than New Statesman on Limestone so I don't really see why his technical ability ever was brought into question. Sour Grapes, methinks.
In reply to GrahamD:
JD also stated that Loaded is harder than N.S and loads of people seen him do it! To my knowledge unrepeated.
JD also stated that Loaded is harder than N.S and loads of people seen him do it! To my knowledge unrepeated.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Nice one pete! glad you didnt land on ur arse again!
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Plonker is to nice a word for him.
How is his back anyhow.??
And as for you Pete get your hair cut,it's longer than your sisters.
Yours Folickally challenged.
Plonker is to nice a word for him.
How is his back anyhow.??
And as for you Pete get your hair cut,it's longer than your sisters.
Yours Folickally challenged.
In reply to geoffm:
Geoff,
Yes i can see were you are coming from now ,in the pictures you can see 2 massive bloody holds in front of pete ,also as you said it must have been windy as the rope is well out from the rock !!!!
May be E9 if your hair gets in your eyes i suppose!!!!!
Since Dunney is nearly bald does that mean that when he did it it was only VS for him ??
Piece of piss for a Wilton boy eh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!good effort.
Geoff,
Yes i can see were you are coming from now ,in the pictures you can see 2 massive bloody holds in front of pete ,also as you said it must have been windy as the rope is well out from the rock !!!!
May be E9 if your hair gets in your eyes i suppose!!!!!
Since Dunney is nearly bald does that mean that when he did it it was only VS for him ??
Piece of piss for a Wilton boy eh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!good effort.
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
I can see NS from my bedroom window and I missed it all - bummer! Well done is all I can say....or is it.
Not wishing to take away anything from anyone cos anyone who can climb that sort of climb has got to be half-crazy/driven etc. but, in the interests of full transparency here can anyone reveal for each of the four ascensionists to date :
1) How many bouldering mats were used?
2) How many spotters were used?
3) How many practise attempts were made?
4) How much gear was pre-placed?
Now look here Adam don't you go calling me names, I only ask this in a train-spottingly interested way and as I've said above you've got to be bloody good to even contemplate NS...
> (In reply to Anonymous)
> [...]
>
> 4th reported ascent then. There may be someone out there who is very, very good that no-one knows about going around repeating E8s and E9s, but I find it hard to believe. Climbing is a very small world and Ilkley is a very public crag. You'd have to make a real effort to do this route without anyone knowing about it!
> [...]
>
> 4th reported ascent then. There may be someone out there who is very, very good that no-one knows about going around repeating E8s and E9s, but I find it hard to believe. Climbing is a very small world and Ilkley is a very public crag. You'd have to make a real effort to do this route without anyone knowing about it!
I can see NS from my bedroom window and I missed it all - bummer! Well done is all I can say....or is it.
Not wishing to take away anything from anyone cos anyone who can climb that sort of climb has got to be half-crazy/driven etc. but, in the interests of full transparency here can anyone reveal for each of the four ascensionists to date :
1) How many bouldering mats were used?
2) How many spotters were used?
3) How many practise attempts were made?
4) How much gear was pre-placed?
Now look here Adam don't you go calling me names, I only ask this in a train-spottingly interested way and as I've said above you've got to be bloody good to even contemplate NS...
In reply to Dave Collier:
''in the interest of full transparency''
what do you mean by this and what are you implying ??.
You should put your motives in a transparant way ,or are you just jealous.???
''in the interest of full transparency''
what do you mean by this and what are you implying ??.
You should put your motives in a transparant way ,or are you just jealous.???
In reply to nb:
Did you read Dave's last sentence?
JAMIE B>
> You should put your motives in a transparant way ,or are you just jealous.???
Did you read Dave's last sentence?
JAMIE B>
In reply to Dave Collier:
Lets just say Pete was happy with the style he did it in. Not forgetting he is a very ethical person
Guess you will just have to catch the omnibus edition
Lets just say Pete was happy with the style he did it in. Not forgetting he is a very ethical person
Guess you will just have to catch the omnibus edition
In reply to Adam Lincoln: And how many of the previous ascentionists tested the ground fall from the crux, sans mat? Good job Pete's made of rubber (unlike Ryan it would appear).
In reply to nb:
I could be jealous. I'm not sure. Would I really want to be able to climb at that level? I might have to train hard. I might have to forego nice pints of beer, chocolate cakes, weekends out with the kids, etc. etc.
No, all I wonder is of the four who managed to do it with the least possible aid......
> (In reply to Dave Collier)
>
> ''in the interest of full transparency''
>
> what do you mean by this and what are you implying ??.
>
> You should put your motives in a transparant way ,or are you just jealous.???
>
> ''in the interest of full transparency''
>
> what do you mean by this and what are you implying ??.
>
> You should put your motives in a transparant way ,or are you just jealous.???
I could be jealous. I'm not sure. Would I really want to be able to climb at that level? I might have to train hard. I might have to forego nice pints of beer, chocolate cakes, weekends out with the kids, etc. etc.
No, all I wonder is of the four who managed to do it with the least possible aid......
In reply to Adam Lincoln:What day did he do it,time etc?
In reply to Jason: He did it on Friday. Why is the time important?
In reply to nb:
I'm sure Dave isn't at all jealous.
He was just asking what style it was done in.
Avec or Sans Pads? How many? How much pre-practice before the lead? Gear pre-placed or placed on the lead? Etc......
He's interested. Style is important.
One top rope inspection, placing gear as you go and no pads is, stylistically more impressive than working it over six months, with the gear pre-placed with eight huge king-size mattresses spread at the base.
Doncha think?
Mick
> (In reply to Dave Collier)
>
> ''in the interest of full transparency''
>
> what do you mean by this and what are you implying ??.
>
> You should put your motives in a transparant way ,or are you just jealous.???
>
> ''in the interest of full transparency''
>
> what do you mean by this and what are you implying ??.
>
> You should put your motives in a transparant way ,or are you just jealous.???
I'm sure Dave isn't at all jealous.
He was just asking what style it was done in.
Avec or Sans Pads? How many? How much pre-practice before the lead? Gear pre-placed or placed on the lead? Etc......
He's interested. Style is important.
One top rope inspection, placing gear as you go and no pads is, stylistically more impressive than working it over six months, with the gear pre-placed with eight huge king-size mattresses spread at the base.
Doncha think?
Mick
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Hey bekah!!
In reply to Vick: hey vix!!! s'up dude?!
In reply to Anonymous: that was me - bekah by the way vix!
In reply to Anonymous: Ya alrite dudette! Good talkin to you tonite. Dont forget to ask Ry. I will ask him too.
In reply to vick: yeah twas! i will! dont forget to get ur presents off him!
In reply to bekah:so wot u gonna call the sprog
In reply to bekah:ney shall we sing a song? hes gotta big arse... ur turn.
In reply to Anonymous: he's got a bick dick...
In reply to bekah:his balls r very big...
In reply to Anonymous: and his dick is very big...
In reply to bekah:he likes to eat shit...
In reply to Anonymous: he likes to drink piss...
In reply to Adam Lincoln:he drank some dihorea
In reply to Anonymous: & his dick is very big...
In reply to Anonymous: he took his best shovel...
In reply to :he dug up a dead body...
In reply to Anonymous: n his dick is very big...
In reply to : he went to his mums house...
In reply to Anonymous: he ate a used tampon...
In reply to : he went down on fido...
In reply to Anonymous: an his dick is very big...
In reply to : he was drinkin out the toilet...
In reply to Anonymous: drinkin out the toilet...
In reply to : he was drinkin out the toilet...
In reply to Anonymous: he's a dirty dirty bastard!
In reply to james:he can eat used tampons whilst on crux of statesman.
Can't be bothered deleting that lot so I'll close it off.
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