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NEWS: Cheddar Gorge Vandalised: Hacked Bolts and Graffiti

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 UKC News 18 May 2015
Cheddar Gorge Graffiti, 3 kbAreas of the popular climbing area Cheddar Gorge have been severely vandalised following a series of destructive acts involving defacement of the rock with graffiti, removal of signs and most dangerously - damage to the bolts used by climbers and abseilers.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69721
 goose299 18 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Awful that the bolts have been done. Really dangerous stuff

I do kinda like the mouth though.
Something a bit different than the usual 'Dave woz ere' that you see graffiti'd everywhere
1
 nawface 18 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:

I think the mouth should stay.
2
 Andy Say 18 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:
> damage to the bolts used by climbers and abseilers.

So are these protection bolts on routes or bolt belays that are easily accessible?

The picture of the 'wrenched' bolt shows something I wouldn't easily recognise on a route.
Post edited at 15:51
 goose299 18 May 2015
In reply to nawface:

Glad I'm not the only one that likes it.
 jkarran 18 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:

What's going on with that bolt, it looks like it deserved pulling out!
jk
 Michael Gordon 18 May 2015
In reply to Andy Say:

You can see part of another similar bolt at the side of the picture, so that particular one would seem to be a bolt belay rather than runner.
 Kemics 18 May 2015
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I dont think that's a climbing bolt. To me it looks more like the sort of rock stabilisation bolts they clip the cables to that hold up the wire netting to catch loose rocks.

Also the area of graffiti doesn't look like a climbing sector, looks a bit small and grotty.
 sheppy 18 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Bizarre bolt for it to be associated with climbing.
The eye should have been flush with the rock at the very least to reduce leverage and that one looks like it has had those nuts threaded onto it to keep the eye well out.
Not something I would trust (in its pre vandalised state) nor recommend anyone else to use.
Got to say I like the mouth too!
 Oogachooga 18 May 2015
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I'm guessing they are the belay bolts used by the climbing instructors in the dedicated 'intro climbing lesson' area owned by the gorge. I may be wrong but the newspaper report tells of jacobs ladder being vandalised and I'm sure its all in that private area.

There are some angry buggers around Cheddar. More times than not when I've been there, a van (usually white) will beep its horn, shout fall off and if your lucky, shout wa#@ers!

+3 on the mouth face
 Andy Say 18 May 2015
In reply to Oogachooga:

So it would appear that the news item is a bit sensationalist? And that the impact on climbers is, in fact, minimal?
 Oogachooga 18 May 2015
In reply to Andy Say:

Sounds like it. More of a burden for the caves and gorge by what they've said.
 Jon_Warner 18 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Think this article is in need of some further information and some clear direction on what (if anything) has been affected. Reading between the lines there doesn't seem to be any photos or evidence of any of the public lines being affected, but it could be misread that climbing's out of action. Also, where's the suggestion / 'thought' that this is a vengeance attack come from? That sounds pretty strong. Is it 'revenge' or are there just more bored kids about this year, - or have UKC talked to someone very close to those who have done the damage who've said so?? if we don't know don't publish it? The Cheddar Valley Gazette makes up enough of it's material as it is, perhaps better just stick to the facts & the impact on climbing areas?

Please don't take that the wrong way I really like your articles Natalie esp. the Julian Lines interview, it's just that Cheddar is a bit sensitive at the mo, climbing, the gorge, and locals, have had a tough time getting along lately.
1
 The Pylon King 18 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:

If it had been done by Banksy it would be incorporated into the Cheddar Gorge bus tour at an additional fee.
1
 snoop6060 18 May 2015
In reply to Pylon King Against Capit@lism:
Reckon they could come to stoney and spruce the place up a bit? The mouth looks great, much better than the chossy limestone it's painted on.
Post edited at 22:14
 derico 18 May 2015
In reply to Jon_Warner:

Very well said Jon. Are you a local to the Gorge who can get some rock solid intel on this? It would be great if you could do some further research, so we can paint a better picture of what is going on.
 Brendan 19 May 2015
In reply to Jon_Warner:
Sounds like ukc have pretty much just lifted the story from the local paper, to be honest. At least they have given a credit in the article.

Definitely sounds like there is a lot more to this story if anyone is willing to look into it.


Post edited at 00:14
 Roberttaylor 19 May 2015
Is drawing a face on the rock defacing it...or facing it?

R
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 19 May 2015
In reply to derico:

> Very well said Jon. Are you a local to the Gorge who can get some rock solid intel on this? It would be great if you could do some further research, so we can paint a better picture of what is going on.

I like what you did there!

Chris
1
 simes303 19 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Keep the mouth!!!
 nutme 19 May 2015
I sort of like the graffiti. It would be nice to have those. And it would be fun to shout:
"Anna, where's a hidden hold in the eye!"
 Robin Warden 19 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:
I feel that this could be the work of the Bristol based artist "Banksy"…. I had a chat with him in Waterstones (Leeds) about ten years ago, he was thumbing through a book on African face painting.

So, drilling holes in to rock, screwing in metal bolts and chains... is not vandalism!!?
Post edited at 11:36
 sheppy 19 May 2015
In reply to Robin Warden:

Yawn.... There is always one.
 Tomar 19 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Wherever that is, I can assure you, it's nowhere near any climbing routes in cheddar
 Andy Say 19 May 2015
In reply to sheppy:

> Yawn.... There is always one.

Yawn.... With a valid point to make
 deepstar 19 May 2015
In reply to Tomar:

> Wherever that is, I can assure you, it's nowhere near any climbing routes in cheddar

The graffiti pictured is at Spider Hole, right at the top of the Gorge on the southern side. Not really prime climbing territory.
 Oogachooga 19 May 2015
In reply to deepstar:

Nice, cleared that one up then.
 jsmcfarland 20 May 2015
In reply to UKC News:

+1 to the mouth. it should stay!
 Jon_Warner 20 May 2015
In reply to Chris Craggs:
What you may or may not have missed there was that, is that was a very subtle (and although I loathe to say it - clever) ask / lampoon to get me out climbing with him in the gorge this week!
Post edited at 22:23
jackz 05 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC News:

I'm going to the UK for climbing in July and I was wondering if anyone was in Cheddar since the news post and could give an update on the situation. Is it still safe to climb? I'm looking for well protected sports climbs.
 ericinbristol 05 Jun 2015
In reply to jackz:
Essentially, this was not in a climbing area and irrelevant to climbing. A sloppy local newspaper piece reproduced melodramatically and lazily by UKC News. Nor did UKC bother to improve the piece despite feedback from informed local climbers.

In essence, you can climb on the North side of Cheddar (on the left as you look uphill) most places through the summer. As it is National Trust land you do not need insurance (e.g. that provided by BMC membership). See
Cheddar Gorge North

In contrast, Cheddar South (on the right as you look uphill, obviously) Cheddar Gorge South
is privately owned. It is partly closed to climbing from now to the end of June. You said you will be climbing in July: Cheddar South will be completely closed to climbing for that month and August.

See the Access Calendar here:
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/search.aspx?s=38&t=&r=33

You MUST have insurance e.g. through BMC membership at times when climbing on the South side is allowed. This is checked. Failure to have insurance really will jeopardise all climbing on the South side
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/cheddar-gorge-access-climbing-at-risk-from-thought...
Post edited at 17:19
 Climber_Bill 05 Jun 2015
In reply to ericinbristol:

Good info, thanks.

I have the original guide produced by Martin Crocker in 2006 as part of the Restored Climbs project.

Is there a newer version and, if not, is new route info available anywhere?

Thanks.

Rich.
 ericinbristol 05 Jun 2015
In reply to Richard White:
Yes there is an excellent updated version that is significantly expanded. You can get it for £15 from Dick's Climbing (would be great to support our really good local dedicated climbing shop) http://www.dicksclimbing.com/collections/books-dvds/products/cheddar-gorge-...

New route info here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2280 and here
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=240. Also The Climbers' Club
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/information-summary-list/new-routes-archive/...
Post edited at 18:20
 Climber_Bill 05 Jun 2015
In reply to ericinbristol:

That's great, thanks.
jackz 06 Jun 2015
In reply to ericinbristol:

Thank you very much for all the info, that's great to hear! I do have insurance from the Austrian mountaineering club, do you think this will do?
 ericinbristol 06 Jun 2015
In reply to jackz:

My pleasure. Not sure about your insurance. The BMC website says
"Climbers must be covered by civil liability insurance, and show proof of this cover, such as a BMC membership card, if requested. All BMC and MCofS members receive £10m of civil liability insurance cover as part of their membership."
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/cheddar-gorge-access-reminder-2013

Maybe you could check the terms of your Austrian MC insurance or check with the BMC. I can only guess as to whether AMC insurance applies to the UK.

Eric
jackz 06 Jun 2015
In reply to ericinbristol:

Thanks a lot again, will look into this!
 Oceanrower 06 Jun 2015
In reply to ericinbristol:

This is true of the South side, i.e. the side run by Cheddar Caves & Gorge. No insurance is required on the North side. It is CROW land owned by the National Trust.
 ericinbristol 06 Jun 2015
In reply to Oceanrower:

Yes, that is what I posted above
jackz 07 Jun 2015
In reply to Oceanrower:

Ah, I somehow didn't get that, thought insurance was required on either side. Re-read the above post so it's clear that I can only climb on the north side and won't need insurance for that anyway. Great and thanks again for all the help!

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