UKC

Southern sandstone gear

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 RhysRolfe 19 May 2015
Hi, can anyone advise on the length of static rope needed for climbing at harrisons rock/bowles rock?
cp123 19 May 2015
In reply to RhysRolfe:
Hi, The longest climbs are roughly 12m so 25m of static rope should see you through (30 would be better though).

This may be telling granny to suck eggs but southern sandstone is very soft, and needs to be treated carefully. Make sure your karabiner is fully extended over the edge and you use static slings, so that moving rope is not in contact with the rock. Please don't climb the rock when it is wet and make sure your feet are clean throughout the climb. Also please don't over dog routes - it adds unnecessary wear - get better and climb it another time.

Other than that enjoy - its challenging but relaxed climbing that can redefine what you thought friction means.
Post edited at 22:09
OP RhysRolfe 19 May 2015
In reply to BIgYeti86:

Thanks, thats good to know but I think I miss worded my question, I was more interested in how much rope I will need to rig the belay or would a couple of 120cm slings suffice?
As I understand it there are belay bolts on some but not all routes.
 Monk 20 May 2015
In reply to RhysRolfe:

At the two crags you mention, a selection of slings will do for several routes, but a 5-10m length of static will make things much easier and more adaptable.
OP RhysRolfe 20 May 2015
In reply to Monk:

Cheers
In reply to RhysRolfe:

Agreeing with Monk, the problem with using standard nylon slings on sandstone is that inevitably belays will be set 120cm or 240cm from the belay bolt, when in reality there is a perfect length for the krab to hang to avoid erosion.

Despite what the BMC say in their instructional video, a length of static rope is the choice of locals who care about the crag. Get 4 or 5 metres for Harrison's and you'll be fine. Please protect the rock further with a carpet or rope protector underneath.
 herbe_rouge 09 Jun 2015
In reply to RhysRolfe:

I take a 10m static line, a couple of slings and the little mat from the car. Bowles is bolted comprehensively but the static rope is needed frequently at Harrison's. If you're thinking of doing Eridge then go for 15m.

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