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UKC Fit Club Week 428
Lots of outside action this week which is always good to see, I think it might be time to arrange an annual Portland meet soon, what do people think? (i'll actually try to attend this time)
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=616482
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week:
Last week's posters:
Joughton - Is this it then, are the exams over?
The Ex-Engineer - Fit Club mini meet at Huntsham this week!
hms - You did squeeze a lot in! Mixing up climbing walls is always a good idea
alexm198 - I've called one 6b a 'session' before...
Dandan82 - Well done for not being entirely lazy
flopsicle - 100 laps is serious mileage! Is it just a personal goal or specific training?
AJM - A slightly off-the-boil week is allowable after that stag do!
Joyce - Huge sport redpoint jump, good job!
biscuit - Gaining a bit of surprise stamina is always a nice feeling
Ian Rock - Good week! "I will not come last" sounds like a good mantra
mattrm - Sounds like you are keen to get back on top of things, better percentage this week?
0.5 viking - Did you get your outdoor session before returning home?
Mutl3y - Diet sounds interesting and well researched, I'm sadly coming to the conclusion that I might need to eat less meat...
Nick Russell - Really getting out and about this week, definitely deserve a rest!
Ally Smith - Bad news on more finger tweaks but you'll get no pity from me when you can work an 8a two days later!
planetmarshall - I hear compound lifts can be great for general strength, especially core, but bad technique can be disastrous, probably why I don’t do them...
Creedence - How did the house move go? Time for any climbing?
Cheese Monkey - Some fantastic ticks, well done! I'm not sure I like this 'no climbing' plan of yours...
mbh - Shame about the BGR but the rest sounds like it has been worthwhile
Humperdink - Shame about the race but sounds like the sensible head made the decision
Just Tintin - Sorry to hear about your Aunt, understandable that it might affect your psyche
Tyler - I saw Mad Max too, while not strictly training, it really was well worth it!
AWOL: Exile, Mr Chewy, Roadrunner5, Luke Owens, Lancer, JayK, Willi Crater
(i'll start dropping people off the AWOL list after a few weeks of no posts, just to avoid ending up with a massive depressing list of ex-posters, but those people are of course always welcome to post at any time!)
Lots of outside action this week which is always good to see, I think it might be time to arrange an annual Portland meet soon, what do people think? (i'll actually try to attend this time)
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=616482
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week:
Last week's posters:
Joughton - Is this it then, are the exams over?
The Ex-Engineer - Fit Club mini meet at Huntsham this week!
hms - You did squeeze a lot in! Mixing up climbing walls is always a good idea
alexm198 - I've called one 6b a 'session' before...
Dandan82 - Well done for not being entirely lazy
flopsicle - 100 laps is serious mileage! Is it just a personal goal or specific training?
AJM - A slightly off-the-boil week is allowable after that stag do!
Joyce - Huge sport redpoint jump, good job!
biscuit - Gaining a bit of surprise stamina is always a nice feeling
Ian Rock - Good week! "I will not come last" sounds like a good mantra
mattrm - Sounds like you are keen to get back on top of things, better percentage this week?
0.5 viking - Did you get your outdoor session before returning home?
Mutl3y - Diet sounds interesting and well researched, I'm sadly coming to the conclusion that I might need to eat less meat...
Nick Russell - Really getting out and about this week, definitely deserve a rest!
Ally Smith - Bad news on more finger tweaks but you'll get no pity from me when you can work an 8a two days later!
planetmarshall - I hear compound lifts can be great for general strength, especially core, but bad technique can be disastrous, probably why I don’t do them...
Creedence - How did the house move go? Time for any climbing?
Cheese Monkey - Some fantastic ticks, well done! I'm not sure I like this 'no climbing' plan of yours...
mbh - Shame about the BGR but the rest sounds like it has been worthwhile
Humperdink - Shame about the race but sounds like the sensible head made the decision
Just Tintin - Sorry to hear about your Aunt, understandable that it might affect your psyche
Tyler - I saw Mad Max too, while not strictly training, it really was well worth it!
AWOL: Exile, Mr Chewy, Roadrunner5, Luke Owens, Lancer, JayK, Willi Crater
(i'll start dropping people off the AWOL list after a few weeks of no posts, just to avoid ending up with a massive depressing list of ex-posters, but those people are of course always welcome to post at any time!)
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks to me for doing the stats, another steady increase in volume this week with some associated increase in elbow trouble but i'm happy that its just my own silly fault for trying to do too much, too soon. This following week should be a quiet one and we are off to the beach with friends next weekend so it will give my elbows a chance to calm down.
M: Battleship, Portland. We got there early as had heard stories of every hard line being occupied on previous weekends by overzealous groups who wouldn't share lines at all. Turned out to be no problem on this occasion, apart from a zillion people climbing all the 5's and 6a's, the hard lines were all free.
Si put the draws into Zinc Oxide Mountain (7b+), exclaiming that it felt really easy today. I got on for a refresh of the beta and made it clean to a new high point straight away! I pulled straight back on, no rest, and finished the route, it definitely felt good today. 2 more attempts and it went down, just after Si ticked it like it was a 6b. I definitely didn't find it to be a walk in the park but it was a good solid redpoint. Longest project finally done, i've been playing with this line on and off for 5 years!
T: Strength and conditioning
W:
T: Boulder, indoor. STILL no reset so plugging away at the same old routes, got a V7/8 that I hadn't ticked for 2 months, nice to know I could still do it. Bit of work on a V9 but not much progress, elbows sore, especially the right.
F: Physio. Half hour sessions seem to short for anything super constructive, set up some more exercises for good shoulder posture and core, she tried to break my arms to loosen up the forearms, seemed to work.
S: Cuttings, Portland. Got on Haute Cuisine (7a+) as a potential project for my wife, it felt a lot harder than I remember, she decided it wasn't for her. Elbows were giving me trouble but I had a couple of blasts at Sign of the Vulcan (7b+) anyway, like you do. Manage the move to the Vulcan pocket static in isolation which was a first. Had a redpoint attempt and stuck the vulcan pocket from the ground, a new high point! I could have ticked it on that go, once you have the Vulcan pocket it's pretty much done, but my right hand slipped off the finger stack and spat me off. This is a problem as you don't have much option to chalk before this move and the finger stack is shiny as hell, needs some clever tactics perhaps.
I'm going to sort out some new STG,MTG,LTG this week
Thanks to me for doing the stats, another steady increase in volume this week with some associated increase in elbow trouble but i'm happy that its just my own silly fault for trying to do too much, too soon. This following week should be a quiet one and we are off to the beach with friends next weekend so it will give my elbows a chance to calm down.
M: Battleship, Portland. We got there early as had heard stories of every hard line being occupied on previous weekends by overzealous groups who wouldn't share lines at all. Turned out to be no problem on this occasion, apart from a zillion people climbing all the 5's and 6a's, the hard lines were all free.
Si put the draws into Zinc Oxide Mountain (7b+), exclaiming that it felt really easy today. I got on for a refresh of the beta and made it clean to a new high point straight away! I pulled straight back on, no rest, and finished the route, it definitely felt good today. 2 more attempts and it went down, just after Si ticked it like it was a 6b. I definitely didn't find it to be a walk in the park but it was a good solid redpoint. Longest project finally done, i've been playing with this line on and off for 5 years!
T: Strength and conditioning
W:
T: Boulder, indoor. STILL no reset so plugging away at the same old routes, got a V7/8 that I hadn't ticked for 2 months, nice to know I could still do it. Bit of work on a V9 but not much progress, elbows sore, especially the right.
F: Physio. Half hour sessions seem to short for anything super constructive, set up some more exercises for good shoulder posture and core, she tried to break my arms to loosen up the forearms, seemed to work.
S: Cuttings, Portland. Got on Haute Cuisine (7a+) as a potential project for my wife, it felt a lot harder than I remember, she decided it wasn't for her. Elbows were giving me trouble but I had a couple of blasts at Sign of the Vulcan (7b+) anyway, like you do. Manage the move to the Vulcan pocket static in isolation which was a first. Had a redpoint attempt and stuck the vulcan pocket from the ground, a new high point! I could have ticked it on that go, once you have the Vulcan pocket it's pretty much done, but my right hand slipped off the finger stack and spat me off. This is a problem as you don't have much option to chalk before this move and the finger stack is shiny as hell, needs some clever tactics perhaps.
I'm going to sort out some new STG,MTG,LTG this week
1
In reply to Dandan: Bad week unfortunately. Niggling elbow from bouldering Monday
M - Boulder @ Reading Reds (14/15, missed out jump start) and playing on comp wall.
T - day trip to France with GF.
W - wake up with elbow feeling stiff/sore...
T - rest up....
F - rest up...
S - rest up...
S - drive to Scotland.
My fingers and skin probably needed some rest after 5 days out of 7 bouldering but still not good after 6+ month completely injury free. Hopefully enough rest and I can get some conditioning and easy stuff in this week.
M - Boulder @ Reading Reds (14/15, missed out jump start) and playing on comp wall.
T - day trip to France with GF.
W - wake up with elbow feeling stiff/sore...
T - rest up....
F - rest up...
S - rest up...
S - drive to Scotland.
My fingers and skin probably needed some rest after 5 days out of 7 bouldering but still not good after 6+ month completely injury free. Hopefully enough rest and I can get some conditioning and easy stuff in this week.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing fit club again fella - AWOL due to family holiday so two weeks -
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - started.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm. 1hr road ride (Mountain endurance)
T: pm. 1hr fell run (Mountain endurance)
W: pm. Finally got out on some real rock. Our though was to start our 'slate campaign' easy and build up to E4 onsight so, seconded Behind the Lines, (HVS 5a) and then played on Curtain Call 7a+/7b (hard crux which is basically being able to pull on some very small dinks - more finger strength needed!)
T: pm. 1hr 30 six move boulder problems at the wall. (power)
F: Rest
S: am. 1hr traverses at wall (PE) Drove to Scotland
S: am. 30min train run (mountain endurance) pm: 1hr 30min riding the Fire Tower Trail, (red) with my 10yr old and his mate.*
M: 30min train run (mountain endurance) 2 hrs 30min Canadian canoeing*
T: 5hrs Canadian canoeing*
W: 1hr 40min trail run (mountain endurance)
T: 17 mile non tech MTB ride*
F: 30 min trail run (mountain endurance)
S: Rest (drive home)
S: 1hr 30 traverses and core at wall, (great workout)
*Indicates activity rather than training
Good to get started on the slate but can't believe how little real climbing I've done so far, (due to weather being poor when I could get out,) this year. Hopefully get back out this week.
Thanks for doing fit club again fella - AWOL due to family holiday so two weeks -
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - started.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: pm. 1hr road ride (Mountain endurance)
T: pm. 1hr fell run (Mountain endurance)
W: pm. Finally got out on some real rock. Our though was to start our 'slate campaign' easy and build up to E4 onsight so, seconded Behind the Lines, (HVS 5a) and then played on Curtain Call 7a+/7b (hard crux which is basically being able to pull on some very small dinks - more finger strength needed!)
T: pm. 1hr 30 six move boulder problems at the wall. (power)
F: Rest
S: am. 1hr traverses at wall (PE) Drove to Scotland
S: am. 30min train run (mountain endurance) pm: 1hr 30min riding the Fire Tower Trail, (red) with my 10yr old and his mate.*
M: 30min train run (mountain endurance) 2 hrs 30min Canadian canoeing*
T: 5hrs Canadian canoeing*
W: 1hr 40min trail run (mountain endurance)
T: 17 mile non tech MTB ride*
F: 30 min trail run (mountain endurance)
S: Rest (drive home)
S: 1hr 30 traverses and core at wall, (great workout)
*Indicates activity rather than training
Good to get started on the slate but can't believe how little real climbing I've done so far, (due to weather being poor when I could get out,) this year. Hopefully get back out this week.
Post edited at 16:18
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Had another pretty active week:
M - no-one to climb with so v grumpy. Dug out a rotten fence post instead, then did a long fingerboard session, concentrating on slopers.
T - cycle commute
W - cycle commute. Redpoint in evening. Had a really good go at the 7a+but foot slipped. Can now lead all the moves anyway, so just a case of putting it together.
T - cycle commute. Evening with Joyce & Nick at Armistice Wall. We had planned on A38 but a group of yoof had taken up residence at the top & were lobbing cans over the edge. Tried a fiddly v crimpy 7c (which is probably actually around 7b+). Could do all the moves but problems with the flow as the sequence is weirdly hard to remember ass the holds are tiny and the wall is a complex mass of lichen speckles. Defnitely one to come back to.
F - TCA blasting round V1-V3 reset problems mainly with success although a few eluded me (and most other people Isaw attempt them too). Finished with a couple of easy but long circuits (6b, 6a)
S - absolutely nothing at all - total sloth & a massive pub lunch. Felt knackered!
S - UCR, routes mainly in pairs but a few singles too. Polished off a (hard) 7a I'd started working with Ben, then another which I'd fallen off the top of dozens of times - decided today that I'd had enough so would bloody well finish it! Got to a new high point on a long 7b, now only ~4 moves from the top. Feeling really strong.
Hope to get outdoors towards the end of this week as D2's exams will be over then.
Thanks Dan. Had another pretty active week:
M - no-one to climb with so v grumpy. Dug out a rotten fence post instead, then did a long fingerboard session, concentrating on slopers.
T - cycle commute
W - cycle commute. Redpoint in evening. Had a really good go at the 7a+but foot slipped. Can now lead all the moves anyway, so just a case of putting it together.
T - cycle commute. Evening with Joyce & Nick at Armistice Wall. We had planned on A38 but a group of yoof had taken up residence at the top & were lobbing cans over the edge. Tried a fiddly v crimpy 7c (which is probably actually around 7b+). Could do all the moves but problems with the flow as the sequence is weirdly hard to remember ass the holds are tiny and the wall is a complex mass of lichen speckles. Defnitely one to come back to.
F - TCA blasting round V1-V3 reset problems mainly with success although a few eluded me (and most other people Isaw attempt them too). Finished with a couple of easy but long circuits (6b, 6a)
S - absolutely nothing at all - total sloth & a massive pub lunch. Felt knackered!
S - UCR, routes mainly in pairs but a few singles too. Polished off a (hard) 7a I'd started working with Ben, then another which I'd fallen off the top of dozens of times - decided today that I'd had enough so would bloody well finish it! Got to a new high point on a long 7b, now only ~4 moves from the top. Feeling really strong.
Hope to get outdoors towards the end of this week as D2's exams will be over then.
In reply to Dandan:
Portland meet could be good. I might actually have some free climbing weekends coming up and everything so may be able to attend.
Having bottled an entire batch of belgian saison yesterday (hammering in champagne corks with a hammer, no less) I've got an entire batch of wheat beer (Blue Moon-esque, for those who have tried it) which I'll be looking for willing victims to help me drink.
Maybe I should just give up climbing and focus in on brewing.....
Portland meet could be good. I might actually have some free climbing weekends coming up and everything so may be able to attend.
Having bottled an entire batch of belgian saison yesterday (hammering in champagne corks with a hammer, no less) I've got an entire batch of wheat beer (Blue Moon-esque, for those who have tried it) which I'll be looking for willing victims to help me drink.
Maybe I should just give up climbing and focus in on brewing.....
5
In reply to AJM:
Anyway, my week...
Monday - bouldering around Aberdeen. Another 2 6Cs done, it (apparently the one I flashed might or might not have some eliminate rules I didn't follow - my mate cunningly only remembered their existence afterwards).
Tuesday - walking round Aberdeen. The road under Pass of Ballater was being re-surfaced so we decided walking might be more preferable. Very pleasant.
Wednesday - 10:3 fingerboard I think
Thursday - bit of a fail, somehow didn't do anything
Friday - wide pull-ups and bottom pull-ups. Also flipped round the campus rung I use for the 10:3 stuff - turns out when its not the incut side it doesn't tear up my skin so much.
Saturday - bottled said belgian beer. I'm going to count hammering corks in as exercise and I don't care what anyone says More seriously, I also did a 10:3, much more skin friendly on the new setup, and went to a wedding where I did some quality raving.
Sunday - bit of a morning chillout mini-rave too. Then a 7:3 fingerboard when I got home - stopped a set or two early to conserve skin as wall reset means I probably need to climb Mon & Tues.
2 cycle commutes too but no long ride - horribly windy on Friday.
Wall reset midweek, work summer party this Friday night plus a day in London Saturday mean I'm pinning my hopes on Sunday for climbing outdoors this coming week, and that I'm going to have to front-load the weeks training as the wall is being reset over Wed/Thur/Fri so there won't be much stuff up to do.
Anyway, my week...
Monday - bouldering around Aberdeen. Another 2 6Cs done, it (apparently the one I flashed might or might not have some eliminate rules I didn't follow - my mate cunningly only remembered their existence afterwards).
Tuesday - walking round Aberdeen. The road under Pass of Ballater was being re-surfaced so we decided walking might be more preferable. Very pleasant.
Wednesday - 10:3 fingerboard I think
Thursday - bit of a fail, somehow didn't do anything
Friday - wide pull-ups and bottom pull-ups. Also flipped round the campus rung I use for the 10:3 stuff - turns out when its not the incut side it doesn't tear up my skin so much.
Saturday - bottled said belgian beer. I'm going to count hammering corks in as exercise and I don't care what anyone says More seriously, I also did a 10:3, much more skin friendly on the new setup, and went to a wedding where I did some quality raving.
Sunday - bit of a morning chillout mini-rave too. Then a 7:3 fingerboard when I got home - stopped a set or two early to conserve skin as wall reset means I probably need to climb Mon & Tues.
2 cycle commutes too but no long ride - horribly windy on Friday.
Wall reset midweek, work summer party this Friday night plus a day in London Saturday mean I'm pinning my hopes on Sunday for climbing outdoors this coming week, and that I'm going to have to front-load the weeks training as the wall is being reset over Wed/Thur/Fri so there won't be much stuff up to do.
In reply to Dandan:
Final week of the 8 week transition period, and a bit of a wind down before the main training period starts in earnest next week. climbed my first E1 5a this week, which I was pleased about but I don't tend to set grades as goals, preferring to aim for particular routes.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Climbing at Froggatt. Three Pebble Slab (HVS 5a) (First E1 lead, officially).
Wed - Rest
Thu - Rest
Fri - CrossFit. 5x5 Deadlift @100kg. 800m run, 40x Push Press @30kg, 40x Box Jump, 40x Push up, 400m run
Sat - Trail Run. 17.82km/841m
Sun - Climbing. A few routes at AW Sheffield up to 6a.
Here's my Training Log for the last 8 weeks, for those interested. My trail runs are linked from the spreadsheet if anyone based in the Peak is interested in those.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BAnTgxqfynEPzgvMgNZCey_4bHiopBqFdYl...
Mega-psyched to start a new training period next week.
Final week of the 8 week transition period, and a bit of a wind down before the main training period starts in earnest next week. climbed my first E1 5a this week, which I was pleased about but I don't tend to set grades as goals, preferring to aim for particular routes.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Climbing at Froggatt. Three Pebble Slab (HVS 5a) (First E1 lead, officially).
Wed - Rest
Thu - Rest
Fri - CrossFit. 5x5 Deadlift @100kg. 800m run, 40x Push Press @30kg, 40x Box Jump, 40x Push up, 400m run
Sat - Trail Run. 17.82km/841m
Sun - Climbing. A few routes at AW Sheffield up to 6a.
Here's my Training Log for the last 8 weeks, for those interested. My trail runs are linked from the spreadsheet if anyone based in the Peak is interested in those.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BAnTgxqfynEPzgvMgNZCey_4bHiopBqFdYl...
Mega-psyched to start a new training period next week.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan, you're doing a great job.
I had a better week this time, and put a shift in.
M 10.5 miles
T - 10 miles to Helman Tor and back.
W - 10 miles, then 4 miles walk around the Cheesewring.
T - 6.4 miles on coast path at St Agnes head.
F - 7.5 miles
S - 8.3 miles hills, then later 3.1 miles hills
S - 10 miles.
66 miles, 7500 ft ascent. I am (even) slower than I was, and very achy, but it was a different ache every day, and the chest pain has pretty much gone now.
Thanks Dan, you're doing a great job.
I had a better week this time, and put a shift in.
M 10.5 miles
T - 10 miles to Helman Tor and back.
W - 10 miles, then 4 miles walk around the Cheesewring.
T - 6.4 miles on coast path at St Agnes head.
F - 7.5 miles
S - 8.3 miles hills, then later 3.1 miles hills
S - 10 miles.
66 miles, 7500 ft ascent. I am (even) slower than I was, and very achy, but it was a different ache every day, and the chest pain has pretty much gone now.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers for the thread Dandan! The 100 laps was a personal goal, I know lots of people do height of everest etc but I wanted to see what I could do on routes rather than just stepping up. Obviously not hard routes but my rule for myself is that they have enough to feel like a climb, a couple of swings, bit of flagging etc. Not very objective though.
Well I've been in Mabo (Mablethorpe for non nottinghamese speakers), so it'll be a quick report...
Mon - Fri Bikes on roof rack X 2, bikes off X2 - this was a bloody killer so itr goes in! X 3 uber slow bike rides. A handful of miles beach walking. Dug one HUGE hole.
Sat - Bikes on and then off roof rack + slow bike ride.
Sun - 9 mile bike ride on my own (yep - no munchkin)! Got very muddy, had fun and managed to cycle the hills home which I couldn't do the last time I played on my bike without munchkin in tow - 8-9 yrs ago. I'm unaging myself!
Also climbed for 2 or 3 hrs, fun, failed at loads of stuff then got a bit more into it and started to feel like me again.
I'm stuck for goals now. I've managed 2 out the 3 I set this year, the 100 laps and keeping fit for the vet bouldering comp at Depot. The last one is a bit messed up as it was to get a roped uk tech 6a at notts cc - they've switched to F grades now and I haven't really found any consistant palce in them to give myself a goal. I'll be chuffed to get an F6c but it doesn't feel the same, it's not a whole new number for a start!
Cheers for the thread Dandan! The 100 laps was a personal goal, I know lots of people do height of everest etc but I wanted to see what I could do on routes rather than just stepping up. Obviously not hard routes but my rule for myself is that they have enough to feel like a climb, a couple of swings, bit of flagging etc. Not very objective though.
Well I've been in Mabo (Mablethorpe for non nottinghamese speakers), so it'll be a quick report...
Mon - Fri Bikes on roof rack X 2, bikes off X2 - this was a bloody killer so itr goes in! X 3 uber slow bike rides. A handful of miles beach walking. Dug one HUGE hole.
Sat - Bikes on and then off roof rack + slow bike ride.
Sun - 9 mile bike ride on my own (yep - no munchkin)! Got very muddy, had fun and managed to cycle the hills home which I couldn't do the last time I played on my bike without munchkin in tow - 8-9 yrs ago. I'm unaging myself!
Also climbed for 2 or 3 hrs, fun, failed at loads of stuff then got a bit more into it and started to feel like me again.
I'm stuck for goals now. I've managed 2 out the 3 I set this year, the 100 laps and keeping fit for the vet bouldering comp at Depot. The last one is a bit messed up as it was to get a roped uk tech 6a at notts cc - they've switched to F grades now and I haven't really found any consistant palce in them to give myself a goal. I'll be chuffed to get an F6c but it doesn't feel the same, it's not a whole new number for a start!
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. The no climbing plan didn't work. Fortunately
Bit of a rubbish week tri training.
T- 30min run
W- Cycle commute. 45min swim. No idea on distance just plodded on
T- 1hr cycle into headwind. Out up the ramp, finally did Banshee clean, also Us onsight and seconded Rancho. Very nice
F- brick- 50min cycle 10min run. Did run very well. Drove to Dartmoor
S- life affirming walk down the Dart to Luckey Tor. Did every starred route including an E2 with beta. Best situated crag I have ever been to, beautiful
S- DiY. Wiring all day, still not finished. Was going to swim but will go in morning instead now
Cheers Dan. The no climbing plan didn't work. Fortunately
Bit of a rubbish week tri training.
T- 30min run
W- Cycle commute. 45min swim. No idea on distance just plodded on
T- 1hr cycle into headwind. Out up the ramp, finally did Banshee clean, also Us onsight and seconded Rancho. Very nice
F- brick- 50min cycle 10min run. Did run very well. Drove to Dartmoor
S- life affirming walk down the Dart to Luckey Tor. Did every starred route including an E2 with beta. Best situated crag I have ever been to, beautiful
S- DiY. Wiring all day, still not finished. Was going to swim but will go in morning instead now
In reply to Dandan:
M: Oh FFS!! C'mon, this is getting embarrassing now! Fell off Truth Drug all over the show including with my hand on the final hold (well the last hold before the easy finish). This was meant to be a quick tick......
T: Rest
W: Lazy
T: Stick clipped up Truth Drug, then did it on my warm up go. Fell off the top off Taking the Mick (again), got it next go.
F: Rest
S: Was going to do another route before getting on the Ashes but time is dragging so got on the Ashes, hardly been on it since I got close in 2012. Risible, couldn't even get to the eyes in a oner and felt wasted after 2 and a half goes up. On the plus side I went to the top without getting scared and its defo easier now than two years ago.
S: Need to address weakness identified yesterday so went to do circuits it the Outhouse. Long warm up then 4x doubles on the yellow. Was intending to do 5 but substituted a session working the GBH circuit which I didn't do all the moves of.
Next week I need to look after my skin better (lots of cuts and cracks) and may another PE/stamina session in the Outhouse.
M: Oh FFS!! C'mon, this is getting embarrassing now! Fell off Truth Drug all over the show including with my hand on the final hold (well the last hold before the easy finish). This was meant to be a quick tick......
T: Rest
W: Lazy
T: Stick clipped up Truth Drug, then did it on my warm up go. Fell off the top off Taking the Mick (again), got it next go.
F: Rest
S: Was going to do another route before getting on the Ashes but time is dragging so got on the Ashes, hardly been on it since I got close in 2012. Risible, couldn't even get to the eyes in a oner and felt wasted after 2 and a half goes up. On the plus side I went to the top without getting scared and its defo easier now than two years ago.
S: Need to address weakness identified yesterday so went to do circuits it the Outhouse. Long warm up then 4x doubles on the yellow. Was intending to do 5 but substituted a session working the GBH circuit which I didn't do all the moves of.
Next week I need to look after my skin better (lots of cuts and cracks) and may another PE/stamina session in the Outhouse.
Post edited at 21:12
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Loving the stats, good job mate. Well done on the 7b+ Would also be up for a Portland meet.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (+3 lbs)
M - 2 miles walk, 1 wainwright
T - 9 miles walk, 6 wainwrights
W - 5 mile walk, 2 wainwrights + 2 hours indoor routes
T - 2 mile walk, 1 wainwright
F - Rest
S - 100 dish tucks
S - 200 dish tucks
Monthly - 54%
Yearly - 68%
Two points up on the yearly average which is nice. Lots of pleasant easy walking in the Lakes, but I'm definitely not hill fit at the moment in any way shape or form. Our pitch at the campsite got a bit flooded which was annoying, so the tent was a bit of a mess. It was a cheap tent 5 years ago and it's probably going to need replacing soon. Got a bit of post holiday bloat going on. So need to beat that down. Also we're on 100 out of 214 Wainwrights now. Which is good. However at the moment, I'm feeling very plateaued, which isn't helping. I'm sure I'll burst off it soon, but it's long coming.
Had a good 2 hour session with John Kettle. Was heartening to have him report improvement. I'm keen to do battle with my head over the next few months.
Aims for next week:
1 indoor session
1 outdoor session
1 run
2 core sessions
Thanks Dan. Loving the stats, good job mate. Well done on the 7b+ Would also be up for a Portland meet.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (+3 lbs)
M - 2 miles walk, 1 wainwright
T - 9 miles walk, 6 wainwrights
W - 5 mile walk, 2 wainwrights + 2 hours indoor routes
T - 2 mile walk, 1 wainwright
F - Rest
S - 100 dish tucks
S - 200 dish tucks
Monthly - 54%
Yearly - 68%
Two points up on the yearly average which is nice. Lots of pleasant easy walking in the Lakes, but I'm definitely not hill fit at the moment in any way shape or form. Our pitch at the campsite got a bit flooded which was annoying, so the tent was a bit of a mess. It was a cheap tent 5 years ago and it's probably going to need replacing soon. Got a bit of post holiday bloat going on. So need to beat that down. Also we're on 100 out of 214 Wainwrights now. Which is good. However at the moment, I'm feeling very plateaued, which isn't helping. I'm sure I'll burst off it soon, but it's long coming.
Had a good 2 hour session with John Kettle. Was heartening to have him report improvement. I'm keen to do battle with my head over the next few months.
Aims for next week:
1 indoor session
1 outdoor session
1 run
2 core sessions
Post edited at 21:48
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing the stats Dan. I think a rest was advisable, due another one now. I may be AWOL for a couple of weeks - I'm going to the Ecrins for 2 weeks 7th - 19th June. Posting will depend on wifi but I'll definitely be back for week 431.
M - Ban-y-Gor. Quick redpoint of Too Hot to Touch (7b), really cool moves.
T - Rest
W - Rest (Well, mostly. I went trampolining in the evening. Good fun, and I'm starting to get to the stage where it feels like exercise - a bit of cardio and plenty of core.)
T - Trym Valley Gorge with hms and Joyce. I did not get on so well with the fingery 7c. I don't think I'd ever crimped that hard. I think I've found a weakness; maybe I should address that by going down to Armistice Wall until I've ticked all the routes...
F - 7km run, stretching. Need to do more of both of these.
S - Avon - Amanita Muscarina (E4 6a). One of the routes that caught my eye when I first started climbing in the gorge and went firmly on the 'I wish I had a chance of getting good enough to do that' list. It didn't disappoint!
Fingerboard session in the evening.
S - Brean, back on Bullworker. Took me about three goes up to get back to where I was last time. Made a few refinements and I'm pretty sure the gaston crux will go now. Slow but steady progress.
Assorted goals:
Trad routes at E4
There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c), Fay (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
Attempted: 4; Clean onsight: 4
(Amanita Muscarina this week. Not entirely onsight: I'd done half of P1 on Dragon and half of P2 on Yellow Edge. Also, I didn't lead the 6a crux pitch (2) but I still think it counts.)
Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
One session on Bullworker this week, some progress
Get stronger
At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer. Tick this week. Dedicate some time to this over winter.
Write a training app for the fingerboard.
Sort out the asymmetry (ongoing)
> Nick Russell - Really getting out and about this week, definitely deserve a rest!
Thanks for doing the stats Dan. I think a rest was advisable, due another one now. I may be AWOL for a couple of weeks - I'm going to the Ecrins for 2 weeks 7th - 19th June. Posting will depend on wifi but I'll definitely be back for week 431.
M - Ban-y-Gor. Quick redpoint of Too Hot to Touch (7b), really cool moves.
T - Rest
W - Rest (Well, mostly. I went trampolining in the evening. Good fun, and I'm starting to get to the stage where it feels like exercise - a bit of cardio and plenty of core.)
T - Trym Valley Gorge with hms and Joyce. I did not get on so well with the fingery 7c. I don't think I'd ever crimped that hard. I think I've found a weakness; maybe I should address that by going down to Armistice Wall until I've ticked all the routes...
F - 7km run, stretching. Need to do more of both of these.
S - Avon - Amanita Muscarina (E4 6a). One of the routes that caught my eye when I first started climbing in the gorge and went firmly on the 'I wish I had a chance of getting good enough to do that' list. It didn't disappoint!
Fingerboard session in the evening.
S - Brean, back on Bullworker. Took me about three goes up to get back to where I was last time. Made a few refinements and I'm pretty sure the gaston crux will go now. Slow but steady progress.
Assorted goals:
There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c), Fay (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
Attempted: 4; Clean onsight: 4
(Amanita Muscarina this week. Not entirely onsight: I'd done half of P1 on Dragon and half of P2 on Yellow Edge. Also, I didn't lead the 6a crux pitch (2) but I still think it counts.)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
One session on Bullworker this week, some progress
At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer. Tick this week. Dedicate some time to this over winter.
Write a training app for the fingerboard.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly Dan! It's been a bit of a rest week this week (lots of sleeping!).
Training Diary WC 25/5/15
Monday – Non clambering holiday with the good lady wife.
Tuesday – Evening session at Armistice Wall, Trym Valley. Had one top rope play on a beast of a 7a+ (upgraded to 7b/+ on UKC as holds have fallen off) and worked out all but one move – will be back for this bouldery route. Followed this with a top rope play on a brilliant 7c (verrrry soft, apparently) – got all the moves quite quickly - which I’m well stoked on. Sustained and crimpy; will definitely return for this one!
Wednesday – DIY club then cut head open on loft hatch while tidying up – bit of a ‘flapper’ so no run to be on the safe side.
Thursday – Back to that super soft 7c with HMS and Nick. Top roped it clean after a warm up go, then had two redpoint attempts – got to the start of the crux each time – just need to try harder (it’s only a few moves until the good holds (he tells himself!)!).
Friday – DIY club.
Saturday – Park Run: 5K in 19:00. Went out too hot for the first km or so. Took until the last km to get back up to speed again – next time! DIY club for rest of day
Sunday – Huntsham. Two redpoints on The Loop (8a) having worked out that if I stretttttttccccchhh, I can get my feet to span the move that they’re currently ninja kicking through on the low span (where I always fall off). Got close to the hold after the low span on my second go – best yet. Only got 20 moves in on third go. Went and tried Between The Lines (7B+); it’s really painful with the broken crimp but surprised myself with how close to where I was before on it – only the impossibly painful pointy crimp stopped play. Then reopened my account with Peckitt’s Roof (7C) and spent a bemused 10 mins lying on the mat wondering how on earth to do the first move! Finished with 8 An Cap reps back on The Slug (from 20 moves down to 10 as it went on) and a quick solo play on the sandy and scary E1 arete – eep, will return with a spotter.
Weight = 71.3kg.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Ta muchly Dan! It's been a bit of a rest week this week (lots of sleeping!).
Training Diary WC 25/5/15
Monday – Non clambering holiday with the good lady wife.
Tuesday – Evening session at Armistice Wall, Trym Valley. Had one top rope play on a beast of a 7a+ (upgraded to 7b/+ on UKC as holds have fallen off) and worked out all but one move – will be back for this bouldery route. Followed this with a top rope play on a brilliant 7c (verrrry soft, apparently) – got all the moves quite quickly - which I’m well stoked on. Sustained and crimpy; will definitely return for this one!
Wednesday – DIY club then cut head open on loft hatch while tidying up – bit of a ‘flapper’ so no run to be on the safe side.
Thursday – Back to that super soft 7c with HMS and Nick. Top roped it clean after a warm up go, then had two redpoint attempts – got to the start of the crux each time – just need to try harder (it’s only a few moves until the good holds (he tells himself!)!).
Friday – DIY club.
Saturday – Park Run: 5K in 19:00. Went out too hot for the first km or so. Took until the last km to get back up to speed again – next time! DIY club for rest of day
Sunday – Huntsham. Two redpoints on The Loop (8a) having worked out that if I stretttttttccccchhh, I can get my feet to span the move that they’re currently ninja kicking through on the low span (where I always fall off). Got close to the hold after the low span on my second go – best yet. Only got 20 moves in on third go. Went and tried Between The Lines (7B+); it’s really painful with the broken crimp but surprised myself with how close to where I was before on it – only the impossibly painful pointy crimp stopped play. Then reopened my account with Peckitt’s Roof (7C) and spent a bemused 10 mins lying on the mat wondering how on earth to do the first move! Finished with 8 An Cap reps back on The Slug (from 20 moves down to 10 as it went on) and a quick solo play on the sandy and scary E1 arete – eep, will return with a spotter.
Weight = 71.3kg.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Excellent week for you. It's great sometimes to look back and see the long term gains you've made.
Good week for me too.
Managed to get outside again. Trad at Troy quarry. I had one session of trad last year and that's been it for the last 18mths or so. 2nd a hvs, led hvs, 2nd e2 then led an e1. All went well and my head felt fine. Very different than last time where my confidence wobbled due to wobbly blocks and holds coming off in my hand. Lovely evening session.
Went to one of these fancy kettlebell circuit classes on Thursday. Turns out it's not for softie gym bunnies and I was still hurting yesterday. Ouch!
Friday was a charity climbing event where I climbed 400m in 2 x 200m stints. One lot at 6a+ and the other 6b. Good aero cap workout.
That was it as it was half term so amusing the kids was the order of the week.
Cheers Dan. Excellent week for you. It's great sometimes to look back and see the long term gains you've made.
Good week for me too.
Managed to get outside again. Trad at Troy quarry. I had one session of trad last year and that's been it for the last 18mths or so. 2nd a hvs, led hvs, 2nd e2 then led an e1. All went well and my head felt fine. Very different than last time where my confidence wobbled due to wobbly blocks and holds coming off in my hand. Lovely evening session.
Went to one of these fancy kettlebell circuit classes on Thursday. Turns out it's not for softie gym bunnies and I was still hurting yesterday. Ouch!
Friday was a charity climbing event where I climbed 400m in 2 x 200m stints. One lot at 6a+ and the other 6b. Good aero cap workout.
That was it as it was half term so amusing the kids was the order of the week.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Amanita - nice tick. That's one on my to do list, but was banned for ages.
Armistice wall - I recall doing some fierce crimping there and on the Connoisseur's choice wall bouldering - probably had my best ever finger strength-to-weight ratio about the time i did those routes.
Bullworker - no need to gaston anywhere in the crux. Trick is to get a weird dropknee/toe hook thing in the break with the left foot and the right foot on the edge of the triangular ledge out right, then it's an easy reach up to the next good hold.
Amanita - nice tick. That's one on my to do list, but was banned for ages.
Armistice wall - I recall doing some fierce crimping there and on the Connoisseur's choice wall bouldering - probably had my best ever finger strength-to-weight ratio about the time i did those routes.
Bullworker - no need to gaston anywhere in the crux. Trick is to get a weird dropknee/toe hook thing in the break with the left foot and the right foot on the edge of the triangular ledge out right, then it's an easy reach up to the next good hold.
In reply to Dandan: Exams are indeed over! Which is exciting, although we'll have to wait for results day next week before we get too carried away! Bit tricky this week fitting in post exam revelry with climbing but I've managed...
Mon - revision
Tue - Exam 1
Wed - Exam 2. Squeezed in a quick session, but there was nothing new set so not a great session, finished with some good core though.
Thurs - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - Dad came up to visit to take my stuff home so we had a couple of days out in Northumberland. Started at Kyloe, and did a few nice easier routes as well as a very cool V8 (possibly my first? not sure) through a big roof. Finished off doing a sketchy but very good E4 called Original Sin, involving a precarious crux mantel with gear not much further from the ground than from me. Not my usual cup of tea!
Sun - Absolutely Baltic at Bowden, only stuck around to do a couple of problems, a 6b and a 6c+.
This week isn't likely to be great for climbing with lots of other stuff lined up but not long until my trip. Bit worried about the shape that I'm in but hopefully I'll get fit out there!
Cheers, Jake
Mon - revision
Tue - Exam 1
Wed - Exam 2. Squeezed in a quick session, but there was nothing new set so not a great session, finished with some good core though.
Thurs - rest
Fri - rest
Sat - Dad came up to visit to take my stuff home so we had a couple of days out in Northumberland. Started at Kyloe, and did a few nice easier routes as well as a very cool V8 (possibly my first? not sure) through a big roof. Finished off doing a sketchy but very good E4 called Original Sin, involving a precarious crux mantel with gear not much further from the ground than from me. Not my usual cup of tea!
Sun - Absolutely Baltic at Bowden, only stuck around to do a couple of problems, a 6b and a 6c+.
This week isn't likely to be great for climbing with lots of other stuff lined up but not long until my trip. Bit worried about the shape that I'm in but hopefully I'll get fit out there!
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Dandan:
Nice tick on Zinc Oxide Dan; and thanks for doing the stats again.
Slow progress on all fronts this week. My cough/cold is still lingering and the finger tweak is just that – a tweak I can work around – no front 3 or middle 2 holds. Ring finger needs stability from pinky & middle to be happy when pulling. Think i've found a good project to try whilst it heals up though...
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger.
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the chesty cough – still just about lingering.
- Get back on the Orme project.
- Keep up the aero-cap pootling and re-introduce some S&C (maybe do a comparative foot-on campus test if feeling better?)
- Aim for 75.5kg (76.0kg)
Last week:
M - Back to Malham; attempted ABH link-up; hard for 8a. Straight Jacket still damp. Coughing still.
T - R&R; less cough on waking, but resumed during the day.
W - Malham after work; super cold, damp and windy. Pete’s offer to buy me dinner if I made it to the top of ABH was just the incentive I needed! Think the link is probably 8a+ as you climb straight into Baboo crux without any rest you get on the original & Straightened versions.
T - Pull-ups, press-ups & core. Stretched.
F - Rest; Ab DOMS. More stretching.
S - Early session at Malham; Matt smashed Baboo like the 8b+ beast he is. Good to see him on the comeback trail. I played on Cry Freedom (8c); did all the moves and some short links on 2nd tie-in. Alex’s comments about there being only 1 crimp for the left hand weren’t entirely correct, but it’s definitely more finger friendly than Unjustified. Training when home:15x min on/off foot-on aero-cap with 6x varied press-ups in each rest interval.
S - Gardening.
Nice tick on Zinc Oxide Dan; and thanks for doing the stats again.
Slow progress on all fronts this week. My cough/cold is still lingering and the finger tweak is just that – a tweak I can work around – no front 3 or middle 2 holds. Ring finger needs stability from pinky & middle to be happy when pulling. Think i've found a good project to try whilst it heals up though...
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger.
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the chesty cough – still just about lingering.
- Get back on the Orme project.
- Keep up the aero-cap pootling and re-introduce some S&C (maybe do a comparative foot-on campus test if feeling better?)
- Aim for 75.5kg (76.0kg)
Last week:
M - Back to Malham; attempted ABH link-up; hard for 8a. Straight Jacket still damp. Coughing still.
T - R&R; less cough on waking, but resumed during the day.
W - Malham after work; super cold, damp and windy. Pete’s offer to buy me dinner if I made it to the top of ABH was just the incentive I needed! Think the link is probably 8a+ as you climb straight into Baboo crux without any rest you get on the original & Straightened versions.
T - Pull-ups, press-ups & core. Stretched.
F - Rest; Ab DOMS. More stretching.
S - Early session at Malham; Matt smashed Baboo like the 8b+ beast he is. Good to see him on the comeback trail. I played on Cry Freedom (8c); did all the moves and some short links on 2nd tie-in. Alex’s comments about there being only 1 crimp for the left hand weren’t entirely correct, but it’s definitely more finger friendly than Unjustified. Training when home:15x min on/off foot-on aero-cap with 6x varied press-ups in each rest interval.
S - Gardening.
In reply to Nick Russell: Good effort on Amanita Nick! Even if you didn't lead the middle pitch I thought the top pitch was worth E4 in its own right, I was definitely glad Dad took that pitch!
In reply to Ally Smith:
I'll have a look for the dropknee/toe hook thing again next time I'm on Bullworker (could be a while). I don't suppose you remember which of the three RH sidepulls to use for that move? There seemed to be a low one (quite good, has a bit of an edge on it), a high one (very bad) and a third a long way out to the right (maybe possible to hold as a wide pinch). I felt like I'd struggle to make the reach on any but the high one.
> Amanita - nice tick. That's one on my to do list, but was banned for ages.
Thanks, it's definitely worth doing next time you're in Avon. I'm not entirely sure what the situation is at the moment, but last I heard they'd finished the work on the rock stabilisation.I'll have a look for the dropknee/toe hook thing again next time I'm on Bullworker (could be a while). I don't suppose you remember which of the three RH sidepulls to use for that move? There seemed to be a low one (quite good, has a bit of an edge on it), a high one (very bad) and a third a long way out to the right (maybe possible to hold as a wide pinch). I felt like I'd struggle to make the reach on any but the high one.
In reply to Joughton:
Yeah, P4 certainly had the exposure, and a bit of a runout after the bolts... Good effort on the V8 roof!
Yeah, P4 certainly had the exposure, and a bit of a runout after the bolts... Good effort on the V8 roof!
In reply to Ally Smith:
Yeah Amanita is one I always fancied too. Nice job nick.
Good to see you've found a new project Ally...
Yeah Amanita is one I always fancied too. Nice job nick.
Good to see you've found a new project Ally...
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers for doing FC Dan. Hope the sun comes out for your trip next w/e!
Zero climbing this week. Climbing partner was unavailable and thought it might be a good opportunity to give my finger a proper rest rather than go bouldering.
M - Cycle commute. Was gonna go swimming but forgot it was Bank Hols ended up 6km running @ below 80% heart rate.
T - CC. 1200m swimming in the pool. 50m front crawl sprints, 50m breast stroke recovery.
W - CC. 8km recovery walk.
T - CC. 4.6km run. Was meant to do some speed play but piriformis and hams felt tight so pulled up and binned it.
F - CC. REST and grilled meat pig out.
S - 800m Outdoor swim. Went over to Box End Park for a 7am start in the lake. Water was lurvly - much better than a pool due to it being spring fed. Only did one 800m lap whilst getting used to the conditions and a new wetsuit. Will defo be back.
Then went and picked up my new bike - a Specialized Allez Sport. First road bike and loved it, feels like cheating. Did a 28km ride round Northampton just to get used to it.
S - Vegged with just an hours walk in the evening.
Cheers for doing FC Dan. Hope the sun comes out for your trip next w/e!
Zero climbing this week. Climbing partner was unavailable and thought it might be a good opportunity to give my finger a proper rest rather than go bouldering.
M - Cycle commute. Was gonna go swimming but forgot it was Bank Hols ended up 6km running @ below 80% heart rate.
T - CC. 1200m swimming in the pool. 50m front crawl sprints, 50m breast stroke recovery.
W - CC. 8km recovery walk.
T - CC. 4.6km run. Was meant to do some speed play but piriformis and hams felt tight so pulled up and binned it.
F - CC. REST and grilled meat pig out.
S - 800m Outdoor swim. Went over to Box End Park for a 7am start in the lake. Water was lurvly - much better than a pool due to it being spring fed. Only did one 800m lap whilst getting used to the conditions and a new wetsuit. Will defo be back.
Then went and picked up my new bike - a Specialized Allez Sport. First road bike and loved it, feels like cheating. Did a 28km ride round Northampton just to get used to it.
S - Vegged with just an hours walk in the evening.
In reply to Dandan: Cheers Dan
Missed a week so I'll include both:
18th - 24th
M - W: Rest
T: Orme - 3 redpoints on Senile Penile Extension (7b+) high point on last 2 redpoints calling off latching crux hold.
S: Rest
S: Waunfawr Boulders - Very damp but managed to dry Le Grand Blu (7A) and flashed it, then repeated it 2 more times because it's awesome.
Tried Royaume de Mousse Droit (7A) a few times but didn't stick at it due to loosing skin.
Vid: vimeo.com/128696510
Had a rushed few goes on Viking Invasion (6C+) on the way home but didn't realise it started on the left side of the arete.
25th - 31st
M: Rest
T: Pass Bouldering - Went exploring around Cwm Glas Bach/Bryn Hel. Tried Y Senedd (7A) a load of times kept failing to commit to the last move, turns out I was too far left and shouldn't of been above the rock slab/nasty landing.
Flashed "Goat Head" (6C+) then went a tried Mooses Toothpaste (6C+) in the fading light, no idea how to stick the last move, nails slopey grit style problem.
W - S: Tonsilitus
The plan now I'm well is to hit Dinbren until I tick Flowers are for the Dead (7c) which I made good progress on last year.
Missed a week so I'll include both:
18th - 24th
M - W: Rest
T: Orme - 3 redpoints on Senile Penile Extension (7b+) high point on last 2 redpoints calling off latching crux hold.
S: Rest
S: Waunfawr Boulders - Very damp but managed to dry Le Grand Blu (7A) and flashed it, then repeated it 2 more times because it's awesome.
Tried Royaume de Mousse Droit (7A) a few times but didn't stick at it due to loosing skin.
Vid: vimeo.com/128696510
Had a rushed few goes on Viking Invasion (6C+) on the way home but didn't realise it started on the left side of the arete.
25th - 31st
M: Rest
T: Pass Bouldering - Went exploring around Cwm Glas Bach/Bryn Hel. Tried Y Senedd (7A) a load of times kept failing to commit to the last move, turns out I was too far left and shouldn't of been above the rock slab/nasty landing.
Flashed "Goat Head" (6C+) then went a tried Mooses Toothpaste (6C+) in the fading light, no idea how to stick the last move, nails slopey grit style problem.
W - S: Tonsilitus
The plan now I'm well is to hit Dinbren until I tick Flowers are for the Dead (7c) which I made good progress on last year.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for all the nice comments about my stats, and about Zinc, I would 'like' your posts but my work computer won't let me (old explorer).
When I latched the last hard move on Zinc, rather than letting out some exclamation of joy, I actually looked down at my belayer and said I was tempted to jump off because i'm quite sad that the journey is over!
It's a truly outstanding line and one that I will try to use as a benchmark in the future, any excuse to climb it again really.
Anyway, goals. I've been without structured goals for a while now so it's time to put some thought into a decent set, i'll copy paste them into next weeks post.
STG: (next few weeks)
Manage elbows to allow me to get back to 5/6 days training per week
Tick indoor 7b clean (bit of an easy one but if anythingi t will get me back on some routes indoors)
Stop doing 2 sets of my Strength and Conditioning routine and do the full 3 sets you lazy bum
MTG: (next couple of months)
Get back on campus board without elbow discomfort, get solid 1-4-7 both arms leading
Sign of the Vulcan 7b+ (If i can get back to Cuttings)
Indoor 7c clean
Indoor V8 clean (if they ever set any new ones)
Score 150+ V points from 50 routes in a session indoor (avg V3): Previously done 121pts
LTG: (this year)
8a redpoint
Beat my 2011 record of 133 ticks in one year: 74/133
Get to Brean Down at least once (never been, hint hint)
Get to Cheddar more, maybe find a project.
Go somewhere cool and tick something good in October half term
I may add or subtract from this in future but it's a decent starting point I think, open to suggestions too
Thanks for all the nice comments about my stats, and about Zinc, I would 'like' your posts but my work computer won't let me (old explorer).
When I latched the last hard move on Zinc, rather than letting out some exclamation of joy, I actually looked down at my belayer and said I was tempted to jump off because i'm quite sad that the journey is over!
It's a truly outstanding line and one that I will try to use as a benchmark in the future, any excuse to climb it again really.
Anyway, goals. I've been without structured goals for a while now so it's time to put some thought into a decent set, i'll copy paste them into next weeks post.
STG: (next few weeks)
Manage elbows to allow me to get back to 5/6 days training per week
Tick indoor 7b clean (bit of an easy one but if anythingi t will get me back on some routes indoors)
Stop doing 2 sets of my Strength and Conditioning routine and do the full 3 sets you lazy bum
MTG: (next couple of months)
Get back on campus board without elbow discomfort, get solid 1-4-7 both arms leading
Sign of the Vulcan 7b+ (If i can get back to Cuttings)
Indoor 7c clean
Indoor V8 clean (if they ever set any new ones)
Score 150+ V points from 50 routes in a session indoor (avg V3): Previously done 121pts
LTG: (this year)
8a redpoint
Beat my 2011 record of 133 ticks in one year: 74/133
Get to Brean Down at least once (never been, hint hint)
Get to Cheddar more, maybe find a project.
Go somewhere cool and tick something good in October half term
I may add or subtract from this in future but it's a decent starting point I think, open to suggestions too
In reply to Dandan:
Hint acknowledged! Let me know when you're coming over this way. At this time of year evenings are best for condititions, after the sun has gone round off the crag.
> Get to Brean Down at least once (never been, hint hint)
Hint acknowledged! Let me know when you're coming over this way. At this time of year evenings are best for condititions, after the sun has gone round off the crag.
In reply to biscuit:
Game of two halves for me this last week, started really well but after coming back from Wales I ended up a bit complacent.
M: Drove to Ogwen after work, arrived at about 8pm, managed to fit in a two pitch HVS 5b. Upper pitch was sopping wet so did a bit of a variant but I was pleased to cruise up the first pitch. Bivvy by the lake (this definitely counts as Alps training haha).
T: Woken up at 6am by rain, ran away to Siabod cafe for breakfast, then headed to a sunny Tremadog. 11 pitches altogether, lots of classic easy ticks. Felt super solid on everything which was cool. Was going to get on The Plum but my partner had a complete lack of psyche by the evening, seeming pretty knackered so we gave it a miss.
W: Morning session on the Milestone Buttress on Tryfan, quick run up Direct Route before getting on the Superdirect. What a climb! So psyched to tick this. Rain stopped play in the afternoon so we ran away to Pete's.
T: Drove to a sunny Holyhead Mountain. Managed five routes before we had to leave at 3pm. Ticked King Bee Crack which I was chuffed with.
F: Rest.
S: Rest.
S: Rest. Went to see Mad Max which was brilliant.
Last week's goals: 4 days climbing in N. Wales, tick Superdirect on Milestone Buttress tick. 2 runs, aim for about 20-25km again nope.
This week's goals: 25km/700m cumulative. 2 sessions climbing, try The Plum on Thursday. 1 strength session.
Game of two halves for me this last week, started really well but after coming back from Wales I ended up a bit complacent.
M: Drove to Ogwen after work, arrived at about 8pm, managed to fit in a two pitch HVS 5b. Upper pitch was sopping wet so did a bit of a variant but I was pleased to cruise up the first pitch. Bivvy by the lake (this definitely counts as Alps training haha).
T: Woken up at 6am by rain, ran away to Siabod cafe for breakfast, then headed to a sunny Tremadog. 11 pitches altogether, lots of classic easy ticks. Felt super solid on everything which was cool. Was going to get on The Plum but my partner had a complete lack of psyche by the evening, seeming pretty knackered so we gave it a miss.
W: Morning session on the Milestone Buttress on Tryfan, quick run up Direct Route before getting on the Superdirect. What a climb! So psyched to tick this. Rain stopped play in the afternoon so we ran away to Pete's.
T: Drove to a sunny Holyhead Mountain. Managed five routes before we had to leave at 3pm. Ticked King Bee Crack which I was chuffed with.
F: Rest.
S: Rest.
S: Rest. Went to see Mad Max which was brilliant.
Last week's goals: 4 days climbing in N. Wales, tick Superdirect on Milestone Buttress tick. 2 runs, aim for about 20-25km again nope.
This week's goals: 25km/700m cumulative. 2 sessions climbing, try The Plum on Thursday. 1 strength session.
In reply to Nick Russell:
That would be great, but the only way I will be able to get there of an evening is to do a late saturday session and stay nearby saturday night I think, I wouldn't mind driving there and back in one day but my wife would probably rather spread it out a bit.
It's too far to get there on a weeknight evening, but whilst looking at the map, I did notice that Huntsham is only an hour and 20 minutes from where I work, I could definitely nip out early one day to get there for an evening session, see what all the fuss is about!
That would be great, but the only way I will be able to get there of an evening is to do a late saturday session and stay nearby saturday night I think, I wouldn't mind driving there and back in one day but my wife would probably rather spread it out a bit.
It's too far to get there on a weeknight evening, but whilst looking at the map, I did notice that Huntsham is only an hour and 20 minutes from where I work, I could definitely nip out early one day to get there for an evening session, see what all the fuss is about!
In reply to Dandan:
On the subject of Portland meets by the way, if anyone is down this weekend then let me know - am at a loose end on Sunday and keen to either do some trad at swanage or hit portland west coast.
Failing that I might bike or boulder, but I've done a lot of that recently...
On the subject of Portland meets by the way, if anyone is down this weekend then let me know - am at a loose end on Sunday and keen to either do some trad at swanage or hit portland west coast.
Failing that I might bike or boulder, but I've done a lot of that recently...
1
In reply to AJM:
On West Coast with school group on Sunday, but in reality it's 3 adults to 3 kids so at least one of us definitely free to climb/belay if that helps...
On West Coast with school group on Sunday, but in reality it's 3 adults to 3 kids so at least one of us definitely free to climb/belay if that helps...
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing the stats Dan and congratulations on climbing ZOM! I did manage to get outside 2 times, so I’m pleased with getting some outdoor climbing in despite the bad forecast. I also got a job as a coach for the kids group and I’m looking forward to begin with that in September.
New STG (2 weeks): climb one of the routes in the roof at the wall
Weight: 70.2kg
M: bouldering/climbing indoors did the new red and heart problems (around 6A/+)
T: climbing outdoors, went on a grade 4 trad route and climbed it, but got cramp in both calves, chest and biceps, so not a big success. ‘
W climbing indoors, routes up to 6a+, was a little bit too tired, but it was the last day before summer closure of the wall.
T: rest
F: bouldering indoors, did the new green and moon-stars route (guess both would be around 6B/+)
S: climbing outdoors, was tired and lacking the head, but when my mate didn’t get up a grade 6 trad route I decided to give it a go and got up and his gear down, so that made it a good day nevertheless.
S: rest/travel.
Thanks for doing the stats Dan and congratulations on climbing ZOM! I did manage to get outside 2 times, so I’m pleased with getting some outdoor climbing in despite the bad forecast. I also got a job as a coach for the kids group and I’m looking forward to begin with that in September.
New STG (2 weeks): climb one of the routes in the roof at the wall
Weight: 70.2kg
M: bouldering/climbing indoors did the new red and heart problems (around 6A/+)
T: climbing outdoors, went on a grade 4 trad route and climbed it, but got cramp in both calves, chest and biceps, so not a big success. ‘
W climbing indoors, routes up to 6a+, was a little bit too tired, but it was the last day before summer closure of the wall.
T: rest
F: bouldering indoors, did the new green and moon-stars route (guess both would be around 6B/+)
S: climbing outdoors, was tired and lacking the head, but when my mate didn’t get up a grade 6 trad route I decided to give it a go and got up and his gear down, so that made it a good day nevertheless.
S: rest/travel.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan, the good thing about running is there is always another race (see below)
M: am - 6/7M easy in 46:53
Tu: pm - track session on my own. Session was 2 x (6 x 300) off 60 sec jog and 5min jog between the sets. It was pretty breezy, times were: 47.3, 49.5, 48.4, 48.3, 47.5, 48.0 and 47.6, 47.7, 48.4, 48.3, 47.6, 46.5 happy enough with those, ~8M total
W: am - run to work 4/5M in 32:46, pm - 6/7M run home in 43:08 going well
Th: pm - run home from work 4/5M in 28:11
F: am - 15min jog to work strides
Sa: pm - BMC Grand Prix @ Sportcity, Manchester. The long drive up to Manchester was worth it as conditions were perfect. Was in the "C" 5000m race which was being paced at 69 secs per 400m. This was going to be a bit hot for me so decided to sit on the back for at least the first K. Got out ok and with over 20 in the race the back wasn't a bad place to be (at least I could run on the kerb). First K in 2:55 and feeling ok despite being detached with a couple of other guys there was no panic, 2K in 5:50 ish, 6 laps in though I started to lose the mental battle and looked at the lap counter which said 6 to go. Fortunately a group came back to me as I had dropped the other two and was following someone else who was moving through, 3K in around 8:50ish, then it was just a case of digging in over the 4th K and seeing what was left. My guys coming back which helped but lack of racing showed over the last 600m as I couldn't go with the guy I'd been tracking all race, I just couldn't pick it up. Somewhere in my brain I registered the clock at the bell and realised I was on for a PB. Gave it full gas, crossed the line, went for a nice lie down on the infield (ok so I might have collapsed), looked at my watch: 14:55. Not sure how long it took me to get there so stopped the watch and hoped for a PB. Results go up......... 14:46.5 - PB by around 7 secs, very pleased with this first race out It made the car journey home a lot easier, in bed at 1:30am!!
Su: Up at 8 am to go running: 1:22:04 for ~12M then off to Hyde Park to watch family do London Tri and then watch the pros. Got home at 7pm - shattered!
53M Total and really pleased about Sat's race. Now I know what shape I'm in and its exciting for the rest of the season!
Thanks Dan, the good thing about running is there is always another race (see below)
M: am - 6/7M easy in 46:53
Tu: pm - track session on my own. Session was 2 x (6 x 300) off 60 sec jog and 5min jog between the sets. It was pretty breezy, times were: 47.3, 49.5, 48.4, 48.3, 47.5, 48.0 and 47.6, 47.7, 48.4, 48.3, 47.6, 46.5 happy enough with those, ~8M total
W: am - run to work 4/5M in 32:46, pm - 6/7M run home in 43:08 going well
Th: pm - run home from work 4/5M in 28:11
F: am - 15min jog to work strides
Sa: pm - BMC Grand Prix @ Sportcity, Manchester. The long drive up to Manchester was worth it as conditions were perfect. Was in the "C" 5000m race which was being paced at 69 secs per 400m. This was going to be a bit hot for me so decided to sit on the back for at least the first K. Got out ok and with over 20 in the race the back wasn't a bad place to be (at least I could run on the kerb). First K in 2:55 and feeling ok despite being detached with a couple of other guys there was no panic, 2K in 5:50 ish, 6 laps in though I started to lose the mental battle and looked at the lap counter which said 6 to go. Fortunately a group came back to me as I had dropped the other two and was following someone else who was moving through, 3K in around 8:50ish, then it was just a case of digging in over the 4th K and seeing what was left. My guys coming back which helped but lack of racing showed over the last 600m as I couldn't go with the guy I'd been tracking all race, I just couldn't pick it up. Somewhere in my brain I registered the clock at the bell and realised I was on for a PB. Gave it full gas, crossed the line, went for a nice lie down on the infield (ok so I might have collapsed), looked at my watch: 14:55. Not sure how long it took me to get there so stopped the watch and hoped for a PB. Results go up......... 14:46.5 - PB by around 7 secs, very pleased with this first race out It made the car journey home a lot easier, in bed at 1:30am!!
Su: Up at 8 am to go running: 1:22:04 for ~12M then off to Hyde Park to watch family do London Tri and then watch the pros. Got home at 7pm - shattered!
53M Total and really pleased about Sat's race. Now I know what shape I'm in and its exciting for the rest of the season!
3
2
In reply to Dandan:
Afternoon Dandan, good luck cutting down on the meat.
Training for last week:
M-200 press, 60 leg raise, 48 pulls +8kgs
T-150 press, 60 leg raise, 60 normal pulls
W-150 press, 60 leg, 64 pulls+8kgs
T-150 press
F-rest
S-got married. Ate lots of meat at my wedding BBQ
S-rest
Goals
The old lady is having another baby in November. Goals to achieve before then:
1. Get utterly ripped (an end in itself)
2. Soft on the G (Gardoms, F7B)
3. Kidney stone (Gardoms, F7B)
4. Piss (Burbage, F7B)
5. Build a proper training facility in the garage.
Afternoon Dandan, good luck cutting down on the meat.
Training for last week:
M-200 press, 60 leg raise, 48 pulls +8kgs
T-150 press, 60 leg raise, 60 normal pulls
W-150 press, 60 leg, 64 pulls+8kgs
T-150 press
F-rest
S-got married. Ate lots of meat at my wedding BBQ
S-rest
Goals
The old lady is having another baby in November. Goals to achieve before then:
1. Get utterly ripped (an end in itself)
2. Soft on the G (Gardoms, F7B)
3. Kidney stone (Gardoms, F7B)
4. Piss (Burbage, F7B)
5. Build a proper training facility in the garage.
Post edited at 18:40
3
In reply to Mutl3y:
Mutl3y - Congrats on the wedding
Humperdink - 14:46.5 for a 5k!!! That's proper mental! As an indication to the non-runners as to how fast that is, Mo Farah won Olympic gold with a 13:41.66. Ok, finding an extra minute is quite hard, but still, that time there is seriously impressive. Hate to equate it to a climbing grade, but 8b? Certainly 8a.
Mutl3y - Congrats on the wedding
Humperdink - 14:46.5 for a 5k!!! That's proper mental! As an indication to the non-runners as to how fast that is, Mo Farah won Olympic gold with a 13:41.66. Ok, finding an extra minute is quite hard, but still, that time there is seriously impressive. Hate to equate it to a climbing grade, but 8b? Certainly 8a.
1
In reply to mattrm:
9a, easy money.
I base this on nothing but my equal likelihood of achieving either, but it's as good an argument as anyone else has
9a, easy money.
I base this on nothing but my equal likelihood of achieving either, but it's as good an argument as anyone else has
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. House move went relatively smoothly, managed to sneak off for a couple of hours at the wall, but that's all I managed to get done. So not too much to report this week.
M - Penmaen Head. Trying to find a new 7a project here, did a couple of top rope burns on one, doable but fairly dirty and crap route, so probably won’t bother.
T - Rest
W - 5x5 pull ups (+9kg). 5x5 push ups (+11kg)
Fingerboard - Max hangs. 3 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (+5kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (+4kg), 35° sloper (+1kg).
(no gains)
T - Moving house!
F - Moving house!
S - Unpacking...
S - A few hours bouldering at the Beacon, up to V5.
Thanks Dan. House move went relatively smoothly, managed to sneak off for a couple of hours at the wall, but that's all I managed to get done. So not too much to report this week.
M - Penmaen Head. Trying to find a new 7a project here, did a couple of top rope burns on one, doable but fairly dirty and crap route, so probably won’t bother.
T - Rest
W - 5x5 pull ups (+9kg). 5x5 push ups (+11kg)
Fingerboard - Max hangs. 3 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (+5kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (+4kg), 35° sloper (+1kg).
(no gains)
T - Moving house!
F - Moving house!
S - Unpacking...
S - A few hours bouldering at the Beacon, up to V5.
In reply to Dandan:
m: 17 miles 5000 feet ascent recce of main leg of the race
t: 8 miles 3000 feet ascent recce of last leg
w: 4 miles fairly hard on the first leg.
t: 1.5 miles felt tired
f: 3 miles steady
s: 55 miles, 17,000 feet ascent, Maxi Race, World Trail Champs representing GB, early slip led to a tight groin and just couldnt descend freely, climbed well all day. A long day out. 10:30. team Bronze for GB after great runs by the other team members. Absolutely stunning course
s: nothing
Great few days, great experience but need to sort out this groin/core issue as its a long term issue. A brilliant course. Got to say I was disappointed in the Salomon athletes who decided this was the weekend to make some ethical stance when we know they are as many orientated as any sponsored athlete out there. Their hypocrisy was poor and their management should have a long hard look at how their public perception will be affected. I won't buy Salomon gear any more after their treatment of other runners. Most kept quiet about how they impacted on the GB team but the late public pleas were poor and tbh most thought their stance laughable.
m: 17 miles 5000 feet ascent recce of main leg of the race
t: 8 miles 3000 feet ascent recce of last leg
w: 4 miles fairly hard on the first leg.
t: 1.5 miles felt tired
f: 3 miles steady
s: 55 miles, 17,000 feet ascent, Maxi Race, World Trail Champs representing GB, early slip led to a tight groin and just couldnt descend freely, climbed well all day. A long day out. 10:30. team Bronze for GB after great runs by the other team members. Absolutely stunning course
s: nothing
Great few days, great experience but need to sort out this groin/core issue as its a long term issue. A brilliant course. Got to say I was disappointed in the Salomon athletes who decided this was the weekend to make some ethical stance when we know they are as many orientated as any sponsored athlete out there. Their hypocrisy was poor and their management should have a long hard look at how their public perception will be affected. I won't buy Salomon gear any more after their treatment of other runners. Most kept quiet about how they impacted on the GB team but the late public pleas were poor and tbh most thought their stance laughable.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Actually a decent week of training despite funeral. Good to get out on multipitch trad – first limestone of the year and enjoyed how much easier, more technical and less bold it feels than short grit! Onwards and upwards.
M- Black Rocks trad to E1.
T – funeral
W – Brookes CWLA shadowing, leading routes to 6b
T – Boulder Brookes
F – Boulder Brookes. New blues, 300 move warm up and CWLA shadowing.
S – Wintour’s Leap trad. Multiptich alt leads HVS-E2
S – Family thing. Boulder Woolwich to V5.
Thanks Dan. Actually a decent week of training despite funeral. Good to get out on multipitch trad – first limestone of the year and enjoyed how much easier, more technical and less bold it feels than short grit! Onwards and upwards.
M- Black Rocks trad to E1.
T – funeral
W – Brookes CWLA shadowing, leading routes to 6b
T – Boulder Brookes
F – Boulder Brookes. New blues, 300 move warm up and CWLA shadowing.
S – Wintour’s Leap trad. Multiptich alt leads HVS-E2
S – Family thing. Boulder Woolwich to V5.
In reply to Just Tintin:
I realised that I didn't reply to your message about Sunday. Thanks for the offer, but I think I might be slightly in the way if it's at least nominally some sort of school group thing, so I think I'll pass for this time. Thanks though, much appreciated...
I realised that I didn't reply to your message about Sunday. Thanks for the offer, but I think I might be slightly in the way if it's at least nominally some sort of school group thing, so I think I'll pass for this time. Thanks though, much appreciated...
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers! I won't be finding that min any time soon!! Its very hard to equate that to a climbing grade but it is currently in the top 100 times run by brits this year (although plenty of the season left) and second in the 35-40's age range. I know we've covered this before but how many people climb 8a in a year? Either way I was happy with it, thanks!
Cheers! I won't be finding that min any time soon!! Its very hard to equate that to a climbing grade but it is currently in the top 100 times run by brits this year (although plenty of the season left) and second in the 35-40's age range. I know we've covered this before but how many people climb 8a in a year? Either way I was happy with it, thanks!
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