UKC

According to the UKC logbooks, a new E10 named Divine Moments of Truth has been established by Franco Cookson at Kay Nest, North Yorkshire.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69757

In reply to UKC News:

Awesome. Well done Franco for flying the flag for the Moors.

In reply to UKC News:

Kay Nest now holds an 8B+ boulder problem and an E10 trad route, where else can say that?

In reply to UKC News: ...and Andy Farnell has (perhaps predictably) provided incontrovertible evidence that he's a bitter and tragic old fool who can't accept that Franco might be a half decent climber.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=616997&v=1

In reply to GuyVG:

Dumbarton Rock of course!

In reply to GuyVG:

Burbage North before The Promise (E8 7a) got downgraded. Maybe this one will stand the test of time better...?

In reply to aldo56:

Very true, though i'm not sure Dave will be happy with you downgrading Rhapsody

In reply to UKC News:

What a route...! I do wonder how he made sure the skyhook stayed put though - wedged? lots of praying and crossed fingers? blu-tack?

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Can't recall Andy saying Franco isn't a decent climber.....

In reply to peewee2008:
No but we can all recall him banging on and on about Franco not being in a position to claim he's a decent climber (FA E10) without repeating various established routes publicly. For some reason.

Well done Franco!

In reply to peewee2008: He hasn't said that in so many words, but his post is very much as I described above. Why write something like that if you didn't want to be vindictive and critical of someone? The answer is because that's exactly what he is being. Sadly for Andy Farnell, he believes that everyone else shares his view, when it appears that no one does.

In reply to Frank the Husky:


That's not very polite language. You come across poorly yourself with that post.

In reply to UKC News:

Top effort Franco, actions speak louder than words.

In reply to UKC News:

Awesome effort Franco, stay strong

In reply to Kemics:


You may well be right about my language, I bow to your knowledge of such things. I sometimes find being polite is rather twee - especially when it gets in the way of expressing an opinion. I don't care how I come across.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Just trying to point out this is a community. I doubt you'd say that to andy's face grade debates is an important part of climbing chat, let's not get all bent out of shape

In reply to UKC News:

It looks great, very hard, and probably is, and the rock looks really good. It would be interesting to know a bit more about the Skyhook placement. Up here (A bit further North), we'd 'frown' on the use of a skyhook as they would likely blow out whatever hold/feature/flake it's on should it be subject to a leader fall.

Well done etc,

Steve

In reply to UKC News:

Looks like an excellent route. Great photo!

In reply to Frank the Husky:


Well you should do - because it has an effect on people - online, offline, people you've never met, maybe people close to you.

For what it's worth, I agree entirely with your stance. I was possibly the first (this time around) to ask Andy to either let it go or else do repeats of Franco's routes. But treating him like a pariah won't help.

I've always admired your contributions on here. But lately you seem to have become a bit aggressive. With some of us (e.g. Goucho, me (of yore)) aggressiveness is a red rag to a bull. But I'm slowly beginning to realise that red rags, red ragged bulls and aggressiveness cause more problems on this planet than they solve.

Ironically Franco would probably agree. For such a crazy, inspired young guy, oddly enough he seems to be in touch with some primordial wisdom which others of us (certainly me) have to struggle painfully towards.

Best wishes,

Mick

In reply to Kemics:

Thing is, it wasn't really a debate. Andy decided to make it personal with his 'open letter'. If he's now on the sharp end of some tough remarks, he's only reaping what he sowed.

Awesome stuff.

And for grade doubter types.. it's blindingly easy really; go repeat the routes and let us know the outcome.

In reply to SteveSBlake:

It's in an iron hole. (we don't climb on crumbly rubbish down here ) http://francocookson.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/does-place-matter.html

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Is this the line?

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uRHh-By91Fo/T3I1rin51lI/AAAAAAAABvk/mr0gWAZ6_60/s...

In reply to Jon Read:

yep

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Hi Franco, I eventually found the photo of the placement on your blog. Good enough to back off from (perhaps) But just as well you didn't fall!

Great effort on a grand looking piece of rock.

Regards from the real North

Steve

In reply to Franco Cookson:


F*** falling on that!