UKC

Hi,
In a weeks time I'm heading down to Portland for my 4th time with the aim of climbing some trad routs instead of just sport.
However some of the longer/multi-pitch climbs listed in my 'Climbers Club Guide' state that "Pegs are required" or "Place pegs to belay".
What is it referring to when it says to use pegs on a belay point? (Note, it does not necessary suggest that pegs are needed for the top out but also on a second pitch up a multi-pitch route. eg. Page 163, Climb 'The Worm' at Wallsend Central.)
Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers
Josh

In reply to J_Climbs:

Not helpful, just a suggestion, but go to Swanage just down the road and enjoy the masses of amazing trad there?

In reply to J_Climbs:
I have climbed a fairly high proportion of the trad routes on Portland, I can only echo the advice above, go to Swanage to climb trad. The trad on Portland is generally nervy and/or crumbly, sometimes terifying and/or loose.
The guide mentions pegs, these were used on the FA's back in the days before proper nuts and cams, the routes haven't had enough (any) feedback for the guidebook authors to know if pegs are necessary or not.

In reply to J_Climbs:

Most of the big Portland trad routes have deteriorated to the state that they would be death on a stick and are also mostly seriously undergraded (for VS read E something on the westside cliffs). The top-outs may also be harder and certainly more serious than the climbs, as the others say - go to Swanage.

In reply to johnl:

Okay thanks and thanks to everyone else... I shall bear this in mind for the next trip!

What about the trad around Godnor?

We will still be climbing plenty of sport and some DWS as we have a few projects in mind but want to get some trad in too as I have just bought a full set of cams!

In reply to johnl:

Has anyone done big corner 'recently' (ie in the last ten years)? Is it in the undergraded death-on-a-stick category? I've always fancied a go at that, but it would have to be on my bravest day ever.

In reply to Jonathan Emett:

I had a look at it a few years ago, the top was so bad I would not put an abseil rope down it. I wouldn't stand underneath it never mind climb it. I did Port Wine many years ago and that was fantastic, has a lovely shoulder wide off-with section that you couldn't possibly fall out of. You would need to ab down and clean the lower section though first as it gets loose and dusty and I expect the rusty peg has long gone.

In reply to J_Climbs:

Two of the most knowledgeable locals, Scott and John, have both commented that trad on Portland is not worth it and is really dodgy. It could also cause access issues due to birds nesting and rare plants on the cliff tops. At certain crags, particularly Godnor, you WILL be knocking down crap off the top. If there are less experienced climbers at the base who will be sport climbing and probably not wearing helmets you are going to cause problems.

Either go mid week in winter when there is no one else around if you really feel inclined to climb loose choss or go to Swanage where there is excellent trad climbing to be found.

In reply to J_Climbs:

I concur with the other posts on this thread, I might be off route here but if you have only just bought some cams and the nature of your thread I am guessing you are new to some of this game, and whilst I don't want to discourage your
adventurous spirit, it pays to listen to those who have gone before, Portland trad is a serious undertaking due to the softness of the rock and scarceness of good placements, I can remember doing an early repeat of last rose of summer when you had to larks foot the old bolt (I had the wrong sort of slings) then runit our to after the crux terrifying

on an aside the water temperature is still pretty crap due to the lack of any warm weather, if you dws at present plan for your exit as the risk of a splashdown is hypothermia if in the water more than ten minutes

In reply to J_Climbs:

I was at the cuttings when someone decided to practice their trad skills, leading to them topping it out. We got showered in crap with several grapefruit sized blocks hitting down around us. a smaller one hit one of our party in the hand.
Up until that point we had been directing our concerns to the belayer and the rest of their party not the ground. After the hand strike the climber was made fully aware of how stupid he was being. They packed up and left soon after but not before arguing the toss and their right to be there/ do what they wished.
Of course you can do what you want, but please respect others around you, know full well that doing something out of the ordinary could result in a dangerous situation (it's the norm because the rock conditions support single pitch sport much better!)
May I ask why you want to go to a sport climbing destination, to do trad routes? Take advantage of the plethora of great sport, or go down the road to swanage for you trad and everyone should be happy and safe.

In reply to mark_wellin:

Why I want to go to a sport climbing destination to do trad routes.
We are heading down to do sport climbing as we have some projects in mind.
We wanted to do trad as I've just finished my personal rack and my guidebook showes a plethora of trad routs, which until this thread I had bo idea were not good climbs.
So yeah just wanted to mix it up a little!

In reply to J_Climbs:

Fair enough mate. Guidebooks can be deceiving apparently!