UKC

INTERVIEW: Seb Bouin about Chilam Balam

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 UKC News 02 Jun 2015
Seb Bouin on Chilam Balam, ~9b, Villanueva del Rosario, Andalusia, Spain, 3 kbAfter Seb Bouin became the second Frenchman ever to climb a 9b by repeating Barnabé Fernandez' Chilam Balam at Villanueva del Rosario in southern Spain, Pierre Délas over at Kairn asked him a few questions.
Although not that well known outside France, Seb is one of the most accomplished sport...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69760
 abarro81 02 Jun 2015
In reply to UKC News:
Nice one doing the interview, you always see a little note on the news sites that he's crushed something but never much detail so good to read more.
 stp 24 Jul 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Great interview and nice to hear his honest reflections about the grade of the route. The 9b club is a pretty exclusive one it seems. The difference between Andrada's grade of font 7a+ for the top boulder problem and Ondra's 7c is interesting too.
In reply to stp: yeah I thought that too. Wonder what it is that makes it so much harder for Ondra than the rest?

 La benya 24 Jul 2015
In reply to UKC News:

What's more interesting is that dani downgraded the route despite not actually doing it. It's easy to say a route is 'only' such and such, but without completing it you don't really get a say do you? Unless I missed the report of his ascent?
 john arran 24 Jul 2015
In reply to mark_wellin:

I don't think it's about anyone 'getting a say'. Dani has done a huge number of routes at similar grades so if he's been on it for a while his opinion about the grade will be valuable.
 La benya 24 Jul 2015
In reply to john arran:

Yes he has done loads around this grade, but he hasn't done this one. And those that have say it's 9b. So who is he, someone who can't/ hasn't done it, to say it isn't, regardless of experience elsewhere? He was a very vocal critic when this route first surfaced (iirc) which may be a contributory factor.

As for ondra's grade the rp crux being way different, I guess that's because he didn't work it nearly as much as the others?
 tk421 24 Jul 2015
In reply to mark_wellin:

Ondra doesn't get to give an opinion on a grade for Hubble then
 stp 26 Jul 2015
In reply to mark_wellin:

> but without completing it you don't really get a say do you?

I think when you spend a significant amount of time on a route, days and days, even if you don't do the whole thing in one go, you can get a pretty good idea of how hard it is: maybe even better than someone who completes the route relatively quickly like Ondra, simply because you know it better.

Andrada spent a lot of time on La Rambla too without completing it (AFAIK). So I'd say he's in a pretty good position to compare these two routes. If he thinks Chilam is say easier I think it's fair enough for him to say he thinks this is only 9a+ for him.

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