UKC

Baslow Edge

The slab to the left of Larceny (HVS 5a).

The Strong and The Right. E1 5b. 12m.
Start up the broken arete on the left of the loose wall to a thin crack. Pull onto the ledge. Climb the wall above directly up the centre using the pocket to the top.

The line doesn't appear in the latest BMC guide for the area or on UKC or RockFax, so it might be new.

Hopefully it will be my first new route after 20 years of climbing. Like Larceny, the starts not the best but the top slab is almost worth of a star IMHO.

Mord.

In reply to Mord:

Is this you Rigsby??

In reply to n-stacey:

It most certainly is. 2nd ascent tonight by Keith and me.

In reply to Mord:

nice one.

perhaps you should add it to the crag listing for Baslow ?

presume you have emailed BMC/whomever is keeper of new routes for baslow.

In reply to Mord:
FRA as I saw someone lead something in that gap, before... and when I asked if it was worth putting in Froggatt was told it was a bit too blinkered in their view. People have been soloing all over every accesible inch of these popular eastern edge crags for decades so all these 'new' claims at this grade should be FRA unless you have to dig out the holds (as for example we did on Oi Grimer whose potemtial was revealed when the trees were cleared from the Grimoire Block ......and has amusingly had the first pitch retro claimed and listed in EG as Whose Line is Anyway). Ive been credited with several lines obviously climbed before that we only listed on Offwidth to stop the need for repeat checking of unlisted lines...more irony.

We didnt check it ourselves yet (as it would be on Offwidth otherwise... always worth a look if you spotted an easier 'new' line) and it may well be a welcome good addition to those seeking climbs at that grade on the crag, so if you liked it, I would recommend submitting to Niall Grimes at the BMC and logging on UKC with your name as an FRA. We will also bump it up our list of things to do (we still have plenty of sub extreme stuff to do first yet)

http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/baslow.html

http://offwidth.uptosummit.com/guides.html

In reply to Offwidth:

Did you read the thread on acronyms?

In reply to harold walmsley:

?? Link ?

In reply to harold walmsley:

First Recorded Ascent (FRA) and Eastern Grit (EG) I think

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Ah... I see. It never dawned on me that climbers seeking to record an FA wouldnt know what an FRA is in the context of my post. MHA to HW

In reply to Offwidth:

Hi Offwidth

Thanks for the info.
The start had to have a little heather removed from it, and could still do with a little more removing to make it more obvious. The top slab is such nice climbing that it probably has been climbed before. I’m not really bothered if it wasn’t the FA, the buzz I got from climbing something that has not been recorded was great. First time ever, as I said.
I have emailed the BMC at their normal office address found on the website, so hopefully it will be passed on to Grimmer.
Is it squeezed in? Maybe on the slab slightly, though the start is a good 5m’s away for the previous route. Have I climbed named routes that are closer together? Yes. Would I like to see it included in the next BMC guide book, even as a FRA? Too right I would as it will probably be the only Grit FA(?) I ever do. It’s named after my children, so it would be really nice to take them there and show them, they are 4 and 7 at the moment.
My mate came out with me the next night and lead it and said it was a really good line, so that’s all the praise you need really. The top moves on the slab are just really nice, good 2 digit pocket, feet on small edges and reach up for a shallow shelf that has 2 better holds on, if you can find them. Then toe into the pocket on get to the top. Smile.
M.

In reply to Mord:

I don't know where they started, just saw them on the slab. Don't know who they are either. Sounds good and on my list now. Don't forget to submit to the UKC crag moderator.

In reply to Offwidth:

I submitted via UKC to the crag moderator after I replied to you so thank you for that. Thanks for adding it to your list. Maybe not a 'Last Great Problem' to the world, but in my world ....., well in my world it has to be.


Thanks again.

M.