UKC

My partner's daughter is getting married in kefalonia in Lassi in September so we've booked on a package ...
I've searched the posts and nothing has been put on here for a few years.
Is anything bolted anywhere yet?
We're on limited baggage but could manage sports gear.
My other half is now thinking of taking trad gear and having a look but my enquiries so far have drawn a blank.
I know people have been talking about routing there so wonder if there's a topo at all?

In reply to littleduck:

There's a Facebook group or page for mountain type sports that you could maybe post a message to (run by locals I believe). Unfortunately don't seem to be able to post the link on UKC (encoding issues?). However, if you google 'kefaloni anarrichisi' then you should see it, along with other potentially useful resources (albeit in Greek).

In reply to littleduck:

Nothing bolted on Kef as far as I know. Nothing much near Lassi, the limestone is more akin to chalk. I lived on neighbouring Ithaka for 6 years and climbed about routes there, all trad and loads of DWS/bouldering. The NW coast of Kefalonia has stretches of very impressive limestone cliffs. I've climbed routes near Atheras on the N tip of the Lixouri Peninsula and also on the W coast of Erissos Peninsula, but you need a boat or kayak to access most of them. Climbed a couple of routes on the outcrops in the woods above Sami., including an E3 on the obvious pinnacle. These can be reached via the well-marked path up to the Acropolis above the town.
Best bet for a first visit if time is short are the boulder fields about 5kms out of Sami on the road to Poros. They are easily visible on your left near the village of Grizata and about 1km before an isolated petrol station. They are very extensive and I visited them on many occasions. Might be worth taking a rope and a rack as some of the formations are 15/20m high. Very easily accessible and well worth discovering. DWS N of Fiscardo via the coastal footpath near Dafnoudi Beach. Also excellent DWS on the seacliffs to the W of the old German gun emplacements near Antipata above Fiscardo. Careful how you go in the forest though, there's still a load of WW2 ordinance scattered around!

I do have descriptions of routes climbed on Ithaka, but you really need to stay at least a day or two on the island. My advice would be to go lightweight on a first visit and maybe search out the DWS potential or spend some time exploring the Grizata boulder field, near Sami. Masses to go at there. Also spotted a line or three in the Poros Gorge!

In reply to Iain Peters:

Is the bouldering after the big bend on the road out of Sami..presumably near the top of a pass (I'm looking at Google Earth) I'm going in August for a ouple of weeks and might venture out if cool enough in the evening!

In reply to littleduck:

Driving out of Sami you fork left onto the Poros road at a cement works before the main Argostoli road begins to climb in a series of broad bends.. Then keep going for maybe 3 or 4 miles until you come to an open area of grassland on your left with a dirt track that winds up the hillside and eventually leads into steep woodland. This track is clearly marked on the satellite just below the words Tzanata. Its driveable to a point where another track leads sharp right. Park here and the boulders are obvious. (Also seen on the satellite image)They consist of a scarp that once must've been a fairly substantial crag. A decent mat would be useful but failing that a short rope and lightwieght rack or even just gear for setting up a top rope would be useful as the landings can be rocky or thorny. It's a great place to spend an hour or two in the evening when temperatures have cooled, but even in the middle of the day you should be able to find some shady areas.

In reply to Iain Peters:

Thanks very much for replying in such detail Iain. That's very helpful. I think we will take bouldering stuff and as you suggested a light rack and rope. I'm interested in hiring a boat to get to places. We're hiring a car or scooter, so don't mind travelling. I think Tony will be keen on the e3 Pinnacle. Really quite excited now. Off to France for the summer next week, then home for a week before Kefalonia!

In reply to Bulls Crack:

If you have transport, the Atheras area at the northernmost tip of the Lixouri peninsula peninsula is worth a visit. Drive through the sleepy village of Atheras and continue down the steep hillside towards the picturesque beach (taverna in season) and bay, with its small monastery and quay. 400 metres above the beach vehicle tracks lead off left (west) through trees and cultivated fields to a flat open area behind a rocky bay. The crags are on your R looking out to sea. I've climbed a handful of routes there but there's plenty to go at and some excellent DWS traversing into and out of a cave-like zawn. Watch where you step though, this is tortoise country! This is Kefalonia at its least developed and there is a great coastal walk south from the bay looping inland back to the village.

Another interesting excursion is to follow the rocky coast N from Fiskardo, initially on a well marked trail to Kimilia Bay and beach but then along the shore-line with many possibilities for bouldering to Dafnoudi Cove returning to Fiskardo by another good path up through the woods to the old German gun emplacements at Cape Dafnoudi and then through ruined settlements to Antipata (tavernas!).