UKC

Dear Lovely People,
I am planning on attempting one or all of the below routes on Dinas Cromlech:-
Noah's Warning
Dives/Better Things
Sabre Cut
I have read that the top section of Sabre Cut may require some large cams?
Would anyone be able to provide some further advice with regards to what gear is essential to attempt the above routes...
I currently have:
- 2x Ropes
- x2 set of wires
- 1x set of cams (WC Technical Size 0.5 to 3.5)
- 3x larger Hexes
- Plenty of slings etc...
Thanks in advance,

Luke

In reply to Luke Kirby:

None of it is "essential", it's what you feel comfortable with that matters and what you describe is more than enough.

Al

In reply to Luke Kirby:

Agree, your rack is good enough. If you've got a bigger friend, take it for SC. If you don't, you'll be in same boat as most ascentionists. Rest of rack looks good for Cromlech.

In reply to Luke Kirby:
You've got a pretty standard rack there Luke, and you'll probably be fine on most routes in The Pass up to HVS with that.

Obviously though, as GridNorth says, it depends on how comfortable you are. Eventually you may want some smaller cams and some more nuts (Maybe some DMM Offsets which I find I place on every route in North Wales!), but for now what you have is fine.

Edit: The biggest cam I own is a Dragon 3, and not owning anything bigger has never done me any harm!

In reply to Luke Kirby:

That's pretty much my standard rack although I don't always carry the larger Friends.

In reply to Luke Kirby:

Yeh to actually place a cam in the crack of sabre cut you would need one of the massive wild coutry ones, which i dobt anyone actualy carries! there are enough wire placements on each wall to make it safe (its supposed to be bold at VS 4b)

In reply to Luke Kirby:

Thank you so much for all your speedy replies & advice
I feel a little more confident to get cracking (no pun intended)...

Thanks again

In reply to Luke Kirby:

You've got plenty of stuff.

My personal preference is not to carry hexes in the Pass.

Enjoy the climbing, it's awesome!

In reply to jezb1:

I never use the my Hexes I own either, for some reason the clinking noise really irritates me
I put them on the list as an alternative to large cams...

Thanks

In reply to Luke Kirby:
I used every single bit of gear I had - and that's a lot - doing the Better Things finish, ended up belaying from a knot tied in the rope and jammed in a crack but I'm well known for lacing any route that I can. You'll be fine with what you've got

Pmc

In reply to Luke Kirby:

You can protect the top wide section of Sabre Cut perfectly adequately with small wires in cracks inside the main crack.

Noah's Warning is hard by the way - dead good though!

In reply to victim of mathematics:

You do need to be relatively careful with said wires though, most of them are placed blind but did feel pretty good when I placed them. For what it's worth I thought the first pitch was harder.

In reply to Luke Kirby:

There is good gear on sabre cut on the insides of the large, wide crack but it can be a bit blind placing it and if you miss a few placements you'll have to keep your nerve. It's a great climb though and must be impossible to fall off surely, you can wedge enough of your body in the crack most of the time to feel pretty secure while you scrabble for holds or gear. Enjoy!