UKC

Hi all,

The Mrs is slowly but surely overcoming her fears of height and exposure, though there is still some way to go.

We want to get out to North Wales a lot now we have moved to the north so I'm looking to take her on some easy but enjoyable multipitch climbing.

Before anyone suggests Grooved Arrete on Tryfan, this would be far too much exposure and just too long a day for her at this point, and probably a touch too hard too but I'd greatly appreciate any suggestions of good climbs at about 3 pitches up to VDiff.

Thanks,

Neil.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Milestone Buttress and Sub-Cneifon Arete ?

In reply to neilwiltshire:

idwal slabs?

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Bramble buttress

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Hope on Idwal is a good one - just need to rope your wife down the descent off the terrace I'd suggest. Cneifon Arete is great but might feel a little exposed.

The routes on Little Tryfan can be led as 2 pitches, plenty less than VDiff and the experience feels non threatening for most novices in my experience.

In reply to Shapeshifter:

Indeed we have been on little Tryfan together, just last weekend in fact. She found it a little challenging in places, but realistically she romped up it and wasn't scared, so we're looking forward to the next step.

Thanks for these suggestions, they all look great and I'm adding them to my wishlist so I don't forget them!

Neil.

In reply to neilwiltshire:
Little Tryfan to start then maybe some of the crags west of Tryfan which give some good diffs and easier Vdiffs. Dolmen Buttress is the best but Alphabet Slabs, Clogwyn Bochlwyd, Gribben Facet all have good stuff. Sub Cneifon is tough. Idwall can be a monster traffic jam so best avoided (if you do go there, go up the Diff super early and keep going up to Cwm Cneifon). Milestone can be crowded but the routes there are good if you know the crag and how to bypass the hard bits/queues. Molwyns are good too.

In reply to neilwiltshire:
I did this route: Rib and Slab (VD)
A while back, and found it quite a nice little 2 pitch. Other people seem to agree, as it's voted 2 stars. Descent is a safe enough walk off (once you are on the other side of the grass "bowl" - we kept ropes on to cross it).
I found it quite cool to be climbing in the Pass, even though it's probably the easiest thing there

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Outside Edge Route (VD) is very good - but ha suffered rock fall at/near the top? seems to have been climbed recently Ordinary Route (D) is good too

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Outside Edge Route is one of the most exposed VDiffs I've done

In reply to neilwiltshire:

I asked the same question to Eric Jones while I was sitting in his cafe eating one of his flapjacks and drinking a brew. His reply was Bramble buttress. go and do it, it won't disappoint

In reply to neilwiltshire:
Next step up from Little Tryfan is definitely Milestone, a lot of the clients I've taken on Little Tryfan have found Milestone to be fairly similar, but feel slightly harder and more mountainous. It's an easy approach, and the descent is a lot easier and more suitable for you than the descent from Idwal Slabs. As for specifics, start on Pulpit Route and then do Rowan Route. For a challenge, you could do the first pitch of Direct Route, then join Rowan route to the descent. Avoid the final pitches and descend below Ivy Chimney. You can get to there in between 2 and 4 pitches depending on where you choose to belay.

After you've done a bit on Milestone, a day on the slabs will be much more enjoyable and probably the next logical step up for your wife. Route are generally 4-6 pitches and feel a lot longer obviously. The descent can be tricky, especially if you're with somebody who isn't too confident.

Check out my post here if you want to hook up: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=615432&v=1#x8044693
I'd be happy to show you some of the classic VDiffs.

Mike

In reply to neilwiltshire:
The Wrinkle (VD)
Arete and Slab (VD)

and Boo Boo Left hand at Bwlch y Moch at Tremadog

All great in their own right and dont feel too committing.

Not done it, but Rib and Slab (VD) may fit the bill also. When you have done, treat her to Symphony Crack (VD) and she wont be disappointed.

I also have a Mrs with a fear of heights and exposure, oh how she cried onGronk (VS 4c)! So another consideration may be where she could have a little 'moment' without too much embarrassment.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

How about Overlapping Rib Route/First Pinnacle Ridge on Tryfan? It's a lot shorter than GA (180m) with quite a lot of scrambling. All the belays bar one are on big ledges. It doesn't feel much different, exposure-wise, than the North Ridge scramble.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

A few of the suggestions above are definitely over 3 pitches - the Cwm Silyn routes are pretty full on experiences for their grades. There are several routes at Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns) in the Moelwyns that would suit - 2 to 3 pitches, easy approach and descent, generally unthreatening crag, decent climbing and fine views.
Good at V Diff are Chic (VD) Slick (VD)
& best of the lot Kirkus's Climb (VD) (this one seems mysteriously have been upgraded to Severe on here, first few metres are a little tricky then steady going with good gear).
As others have suggested Bramble Buttress (VD) is great. Arete and Slab (VD) is a fun outing on Clogwyn Bochlwyd which can easily be combined with some of the Milestone Buttress suggestions. If you don't mind a bit of a walk in then North Arete (D) is worthwhile (perfect if you want to get away from the crowds). Slab Climb (D) is another good Ogwen valley option.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Left Edge is very good. Very straightforward climbing, but a little sparse on gear and quite big pitches. Might be a bit longer than you want at the moment, I can't honestly remember if it feels exposed at all, but I doubt it. A stiff walk up the hill to get there.

Left Edge (VD)

In reply to The Ivanator:


Good call!

In reply to Simon Caldwell:


ahh...but then multi-pitch routes tend to be! That's the point!

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Indeed, but given that the OP said Grooved Arete would be too exposed...

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Milestone is the next logical step up from Tryfan Bach, but keep in mind that realistically the descent requires an ab / lower for someone who isn't confident. But it's a great place to introduce those skills.

I use Milestone a fair bit for work, it's ideal whilst still being a brilliant crag with brilliant climbing

In reply to neilwiltshire:

i'm becoming a bit of an expert on these types routes, not too fond of exposure, a beginner to multi pitch and living in north wales. milestone buttress is perfect. i have abseiled off, but if you continue to walk up just a little bit higher from the top of most routes and trend left, you can walk down on the left side of the buttress which doesn't take much longer and avoids the abseil.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Hmm, good to know, an abseil is probably a step too far at this point. Thanks for all the suggestions, i'm noting and researching all of them!

In reply to neilwiltshire:
It's not unavoidable - it's a relatively exposed grade 2 scramble down the same line, but if you aren't bothered about being as efficient as possible then you can also carry on to the North Ridge and go up or down that way.

(Or go the way that Matadoors suggested - didn't know about that one!)

In reply to neilwiltshire:

How am I the first to suggest hail Bebe?

In reply to neuromancer:

Because if the routes on Tryfan are too exposed, the top of Hail Bebe certainly is. And the rest of it is crap.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Definitely the Moelwyns, Clogwyn Yr Oen. Rough friendly rock. Usually quiet. Big ledges, little exposure on the v. diffs.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

Oberon with the easy start is nice.

In reply to neilwiltshire:

I found practising abseiling somewhere quiet where I could walk between the top and bottom was really helpful. Also that session we just practised abseiling and nothing else so it wasnt too much to take in.