UKC

HELP - Fontainebleau ticklist required!

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Hey all,

hoping people can help. I am obssessed with font and going for a couple of weeks soon, and need some 7a projects recommended to me. Preferably not morpho/dynos, more overhangy slopy stuff


Ive ticked:

Beatle Juice 7a+
Ah, Plus Facile 7a+
Bizzare Bizzare 7a
je de toit 7a
toit de cul de chien 7a
tentation 7a
lapin au canard 7a
surplombe gauche 7a
surplombe feullite gauche 7a
graviton 7a
yoda 7a
legitime adherence assis 7a

just to give you an idea of the types of climbs i like
 lanky and weak 23 Jun 2015
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:

Rude boy and retour aux source at Roche Aux Sabots, 7am and 7a+. Both overhangs, rude boy is sloper pulling, RAS is a classic steep prow.
 petegunn 23 Jun 2015
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:

L'Elephant
Le Lepreux Direct
Le Coeur

Franchard Cuisiniere
Excalibur

Franchard Isatis
L'Angle Ben's
El Poussah
El Poussif
Little Karma
Rataplat (7b but very good slopes)

Apremont
Faux Contact
Egoiste
Medaille en Chocolat
L'Hyper Plomb (quite high)
Onde de Choc (7b but worth checking out)




 RobertHepburn 25 Jun 2015
In reply to lanky and weak:
> Rude boy and retour aux source at Roche Aux Sabots, 7am and 7a+. Both overhangs, rude boy is sloper pulling,
> RAS is a classic steep prow.

Aren't they both at 95.2?
Post edited at 12:54
 sxrxg 25 Jun 2015
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:

Holey Moley (f7A) at Bas Cuvier sounds like exactly what you are looking for.
Memoire d'Outre Tombe (f7A+) at Rocher Fin was fun. Steep on good holds to start and then slopers to finish.
 Beardyman 25 Jun 2015
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:

Here are a few I have done and would rate very highly, most of these are a bit less well known problems but are just a short walk from the busier areas.

Surplomb de Coquille - 7a (and a 7a+ variant) - Franchard Haute Plains
Jeremedias Assis - 7a+ - Apremont
Le Magnifique - 7a+ - Cuisieniere
Plasticman - 7a - Isatis
Festin de Piere - 7a - Cuvier Est
Atmosphere - 7a - Cuvier Est
Chasseur de Prises - 7a - Rocher Canon
La Baleine - 7a+ - Petit Bois
In reply to Beardyman:

Nice list! Do you know you can insert climb links using the Logbooks bit in the reply box?

Surplomb de la Coquille assis (f7A)
Le Magnifique (L'Innommé) (f7A+)
Plastikman (f7A)
No match for climb id:346437
Chasseur de Prises (White 24) (f7A)
La Baleine (Black 7) (f7A+)
 Beardyman 26 Jun 2015
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

> Nice list! Do you know you can insert climb links using the Logbooks bit in the reply box?

I do now!

Removed User 30 Jun 2015
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:

I think L'Hélicoptère (f7A) at Bas Cuvier. It's cool.
 petegunn 04 Jul 2015
In reply to Removed Usercanadian tim:

Be careful though!!

youtube.com/watch?v=b3j5fxKt7jk&

I am glad ive ticked it and don't have to do it again.
Removed User 07 Jul 2015
In reply to petegunn:

Holy crap dude. That is a good example of unfortunate positioning for the pads and spotters. It's a tough one to figure out the first time, as we can see there. I spun off that thing, literally over the heads of my spotters to the dirt. I was fine though. Thankfully.
 Alex1 07 Jul 2015
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:

A warning - trying to climb font 7a's etc in font in July/August if that's your max grade is going to be very difficult as it will be hot and sweaty (not ideal for slopers).
 Adrien 07 Jul 2015
In reply to Alex1:
I can confirm first hand, last week was unbearable, up to 40°C. Had to get up at 6am to climb in moderately decent conditions (was already well over 20°C at 7am). Zero friction. This week looks slightly better but the forecast is still 30-32°C. Places like L'éléphant or Cul de chien are hellish due to the absence of shade, but even more shaded areas offer suboptimal conditions. Can't wait for autumn/winter.

To add to the ticklist:

Pitt Boule at Mont Simonet, slopey compressions on cool horizontal prow
Le Flipper (assis) at 91.1, compressions on two aretes (6B stand)

Post edited at 13:48
In reply to petegunn:

I really wish I hadn't seen that video. Grim!
 Hyphin 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

Was stupid enough to read


> I really wish I hadn't seen that video. Grim!

then carry on to watch.
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:

Apologies if they have been suggested already:
La Baleine (f7A+) - canche aux merciers
Les Pieds dans la Lune (f7A+) - 95.2
Satan m'Habite (raccourci) (f7A) - rocher de souris
Ligne de Mire (f7A) - gorges du houx
Gargantoit (f7A+) - gorges du houx
Rababoum (f7A) - Manoury
Outil de Coupe (f7A) - J.A. Martin
Guerre et Paix (f7A) - rocher fin
Le 13ème Travail d'Hercule (f7A+) - Apremont
Lady Big Claques / Le Flipper (f7A+) - buthiers
In reply to everyone:

Hi, hus here! i set this thread up ages ago and totally forgot about it!!

Thank you for your recommendations, really appreciated, keep em coming!!

I went to font a couple of weeks back and had my best trip


In 4 days climbing, I got Vis a Vis, Extraction Terrerist, Action Directe Assis, La Choette (assis), Oblique, and Sa pelle au logis and Soupcon!



Im actually on a ferry on my way to font now, with an improved ticklist and going to try your recommendations. Also, hoping for my first 7b - any recommendations?!?



Ta,

Happy crushing
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:
For some reasonable, good quality 7B's, I thought these were all worthwhile:

Onde de Choc (f7B) @ Apremont
Pensees Cachees (f7B) @ Apremont
Pensees Cachees (f7B) @ franchard cuisiniere
Clandestino (f7B) @ Apremont envers
Oasis (f7B+) @ Maunoury
Fluide Magnétique (f7B+) @ Bas Cuvier (bit trickier but a great problem)
Post edited at 19:19
 Hamfunk 03 Aug 2015
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:

Rataplat (f7B) is fairly straight forward for 7B although in the heat the slopers may feel useless
In reply to Kent & Sussex Climbing:

Marginal Droite (f7B)

This one is fantastic but got remoderated as pensees caches.

Check it out

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