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Pete opted to take several sky hooks and some office supplies for his impressive onsight ascent of The Complete Scream at Fair Head in Northern Ireland...
Everyone uses Gaffa-Tape and Blu-Tack, right?!
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69807
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In reply to UKC News:
Everything this guy does looks both terrifying and somehow very funny.
Everything this guy does looks both terrifying and somehow very funny.
Post edited at 12:04
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In reply to UKC News:
well...it looks like that second sky hook might hold...
if he weighed as much as a chipmunk!
well...it looks like that second sky hook might hold...
if he weighed as much as a chipmunk!
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In reply to drolex:
That sums it up very nicely! Massively impressive stuff. Brings a new meaning to "taping up".
Also, from the five ten Instagram post:
"Originally graded E8 6b but now given E7 6b if you place a hidden wire that can be found upon abseil inspection."
Different grades for the onsight and the headpoint you say? Hmmm...
> Everything this guy does look both terrifying and somehow very funny.
That sums it up very nicely! Massively impressive stuff. Brings a new meaning to "taping up".
Also, from the five ten Instagram post:
"Originally graded E8 6b but now given E7 6b if you place a hidden wire that can be found upon abseil inspection."
Different grades for the onsight and the headpoint you say? Hmmm...
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In reply to Ramblin dave:
I wonder what the grade is if you forget your gaffa tape?
> Different grades for the onsight and the headpoint you say? Hmmm...
I wonder what the grade is if you forget your gaffa tape?
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In reply to UKC News:
Surely if its not an onsight, otherwise how did he know to take gaffer tape.
Bloody fraud....
Surely if its not an onsight, otherwise how did he know to take gaffer tape.
Bloody fraud....
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Impressive!
In the second picture, is he sitting on the hook? The sling looks tight. If not, that's an amazing effort to be unrolling the roll of tape in a position like that! Amazing effort nonetheless.
In the second picture, is he sitting on the hook? The sling looks tight. If not, that's an amazing effort to be unrolling the roll of tape in a position like that! Amazing effort nonetheless.
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In reply to UKC News:
This was a very impressive bit of climbing to watch. It was totally gripping but Pete did look solid, it just looked quite high consequence in the event of anything going wrong or a hold breaking etc.
It's worth noting that Nathan Lee repeated the route a couple of days later after having practised it on an Ab rope and was still unable to find the wire placement.
It looked more E8 than E7!
This was a very impressive bit of climbing to watch. It was totally gripping but Pete did look solid, it just looked quite high consequence in the event of anything going wrong or a hold breaking etc.
It's worth noting that Nathan Lee repeated the route a couple of days later after having practised it on an Ab rope and was still unable to find the wire placement.
It looked more E8 than E7!
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In reply to NottsRich:
Of course he's not.
> In the second picture, is he sitting on the hook? The sling looks tight.
Of course he's not.
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In reply to UKC News:
Has anyone ever taken a fall on a sky-hook held on with blu-tac? Does it really work?
Has anyone ever taken a fall on a sky-hook held on with blu-tac? Does it really work?
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In reply to tony:
I don't think the blu-tac is load bearing... It just stops the skyhook popping off the hold. So not really any different to falling on a skyhook without blu-tac.
I don't think the blu-tac is load bearing... It just stops the skyhook popping off the hold. So not really any different to falling on a skyhook without blu-tac.
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In reply to RyanOsborne:
Yes I know that, I wonder if it's ever worked.
> I don't think the blu-tac is load bearing... It just stops the skyhook popping off the hold. So not really any different to falling on a skyhook without blu-tac.
Yes I know that, I wonder if it's ever worked.
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In reply to JamButty:
Not to mention he knew to take sky hooks!
> Surely if its not an onsight, otherwise how did he know to take gaffer tape.
> Bloody fraud....
>
Not to mention he knew to take sky hooks!
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In reply to NottsRich:
Dude...it's because the rope is clipped in....!
> Impressive!
> In the second picture, is he sitting on the hook? The sling looks tight. If not, that's an amazing effort to be unrolling the roll of tape in a position like that! Amazing effort nonetheless.
Dude...it's because the rope is clipped in....!
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In reply to UKC News:
Impressive stuff. The E5 6b that forms the top section of his route looked terrifying enough (and a few people who did it thought more like E6 6a). It's a very inviting route, less than vertical (though not a slab) and the holds look at least half decent but there are tricky moves between them and a fall does not bear thinking about. It's also a stunning piece of rock, best part of 60m high and no cracks even remotely within reach.
Impressive stuff. The E5 6b that forms the top section of his route looked terrifying enough (and a few people who did it thought more like E6 6a). It's a very inviting route, less than vertical (though not a slab) and the holds look at least half decent but there are tricky moves between them and a fall does not bear thinking about. It's also a stunning piece of rock, best part of 60m high and no cracks even remotely within reach.
In reply to UKC News:
He just needed a few cable ties and we would have definitive proof of the three most useful things in the world.
He just needed a few cable ties and we would have definitive proof of the three most useful things in the world.
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In reply to Jim Brooke:
No, but it does blow the onsight and logically if it's E7 if you find the wire on inspection, it will be H7 if you headpoint it with the wire.
> Abseil inspection is not the same as headpointing...!
No, but it does blow the onsight and logically if it's E7 if you find the wire on inspection, it will be H7 if you headpoint it with the wire.
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In reply to Michael Gordon:
No, it'll be E7. As it says in the guide. H grades only exist in the magical mythical places. Elsewhere they use real grades.
Well done Pete.
Andy F
> No, but it does blow the onsight and logically if it's E7 if you find the wire on inspection, it will be H7 if you headpoint it with the wire.
No, it'll be E7. As it says in the guide. H grades only exist in the magical mythical places. Elsewhere they use real grades.
Well done Pete.
Andy F
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In reply to climbnplay:
your probably right, and i imagine the wight of the rope pulling down on the hook helps keep it in place while he faffs with the tape etc!
in response to the questions of whether sky hooks work, iv not seen anybody fall on a bluetaced one but iv seen a video of some kid taking a siezable fall on a skyhook weighed down with hexes or something in t'peak. think the route was about e6.
> Dude...it's because the rope is clipped in....!
your probably right, and i imagine the wight of the rope pulling down on the hook helps keep it in place while he faffs with the tape etc!
in response to the questions of whether sky hooks work, iv not seen anybody fall on a bluetaced one but iv seen a video of some kid taking a siezable fall on a skyhook weighed down with hexes or something in t'peak. think the route was about e6.
In reply to andy farnell:
Confused now - I thought the British trad grading system (God bless her and all who sail in her) graded everything for the onsight regardless of whether you or anyone else has onsighted it or not. So if, without the beta about the wire, it's harder than any E7 to onsight then it should get E8. Grading it E7 because it's easier if you don't try to onsight it seems like an abuse of the system, even if it's arguably a useful one - you're basically doing the same thing as using an H grade but half pretending not to.
> No, it'll be E7. As it says in the guide.
Confused now - I thought the British trad grading system (God bless her and all who sail in her) graded everything for the onsight regardless of whether you or anyone else has onsighted it or not. So if, without the beta about the wire, it's harder than any E7 to onsight then it should get E8. Grading it E7 because it's easier if you don't try to onsight it seems like an abuse of the system, even if it's arguably a useful one - you're basically doing the same thing as using an H grade but half pretending not to.
Post edited at 18:07
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In reply to UKC News:
Fantastic. What a class piece of rock too. Nutter.
Glad to see the H grade is now being used over the sea too - even if they don't realise it yet..
Fantastic. What a class piece of rock too. Nutter.
Glad to see the H grade is now being used over the sea too - even if they don't realise it yet..
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In reply to Ramblin dave:
I think to be fair to Andy F he is probably saying E7 for if the wire is found but otherwise E8. He just doesn't like the H grade.
I think to be fair to Andy F he is probably saying E7 for if the wire is found but otherwise E8. He just doesn't like the H grade.
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In reply to Michael Gordon:
Yes, obviously. As it says in the article, and guidebook!
> No, but it does blow the onsight and logically if it's E7 if you find the wire on inspection
Yes, obviously. As it says in the article, and guidebook!
Post edited at 23:04
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In reply to UKC News:
I had a look at this on top rope when I was over a couple of weeks ago having heard about this so called 'hidden' wire and it reducing the grade. I have to say I was quite disappointed when I found it...the skyhook placement to its right would be much more bomber in my opinion! Anyone who has ever climbed on this wall will know what an incredible effort it is to onsight the Complete Scream...properly inspiring! Primal Scream is scary enough and you're not going to die on that...
I had a look at this on top rope when I was over a couple of weeks ago having heard about this so called 'hidden' wire and it reducing the grade. I have to say I was quite disappointed when I found it...the skyhook placement to its right would be much more bomber in my opinion! Anyone who has ever climbed on this wall will know what an incredible effort it is to onsight the Complete Scream...properly inspiring! Primal Scream is scary enough and you're not going to die on that...
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In reply to Franco Cookson:
Where in the article does it mention H grades? Are they in the guide? Do they realise they are using H Grades?
No. Because they aren't. They use E grades. Exclusively. Like 99.9999% of the country does when grading trade routes.
Andy F
> Glad to see the H grade is now being used over the sea too - even if they don't realise it yet..
Where in the article does it mention H grades? Are they in the guide? Do they realise they are using H Grades?
No. Because they aren't. They use E grades. Exclusively. Like 99.9999% of the country does when grading trade routes.
Andy F
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In reply to andy farnell:
It doesn't, they're just idiots who've hijacked the thread to turn this into a grade debate.
Nice climbing Pete!
> Where in the article does it mention H grades?
It doesn't, they're just idiots who've hijacked the thread to turn this into a grade debate.
Nice climbing Pete!
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In reply to UKC News:
Looks utterly terrifying.
Loving the onsight/grade chat etc - it's so UKC! I think one of the times Andy Kirkpatrick was doing one of his standups he was explaining how geeky climbers are to the non-climbers in the audience and said something like most climbers told Alex Honnold had just free-soloed half dome would probably first ask what type of rubber he had on his shoes, funny but quite true too!
Looks utterly terrifying.
Loving the onsight/grade chat etc - it's so UKC! I think one of the times Andy Kirkpatrick was doing one of his standups he was explaining how geeky climbers are to the non-climbers in the audience and said something like most climbers told Alex Honnold had just free-soloed half dome would probably first ask what type of rubber he had on his shoes, funny but quite true too!
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In reply to andy farnell:
Oh dear. I think you need to read his post again........
> Where in the article does it mention H grades? Are they in the guide? Do they realise they are using H Grades?
Oh dear. I think you need to read his post again........
Post edited at 13:15
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In reply to Short&Savage:
No they're not. They're intelligent people having an interesting debate.
40 or so repetitions of that (or words to that effect) wouldn't exactly make for a riveting thread.
An awesome looking bit of climbing spawning a good discussion - UKC at its best.
> They're just idiots who've hijacked the thread to turn this into a grade debate.
No they're not. They're intelligent people having an interesting debate.
> Nice climbing Pete!
40 or so repetitions of that (or words to that effect) wouldn't exactly make for a riveting thread.
An awesome looking bit of climbing spawning a good discussion - UKC at its best.
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In reply to UKC News:
If he used a bigger sky hook, couldn't he have hooked the tip into the crack at the back of that flake what he's got his hand on, and made it more positive and less blue tacky?
If he used a bigger sky hook, couldn't he have hooked the tip into the crack at the back of that flake what he's got his hand on, and made it more positive and less blue tacky?
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In reply to UKC News:
Maybe we should start using A grades for routes with gear that necessitates abseil inspection. So this would be A7/H7/E8
Maybe we should start using A grades for routes with gear that necessitates abseil inspection. So this would be A7/H7/E8
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In reply to lorens holm:
I think you actually have a point here. If he had a better skyhook (maybe one that's adjustable, as cams are), then he could've had a better placement. Maybe an adjustable sky hook would be a next gear development, protecting blank faces the way that cams protect cracks.
> If he used a bigger sky hook, couldn't he have hooked the tip into the crack at the back of that flake what he's got his hand on, and made it more positive and less blue tacky?
I think you actually have a point here. If he had a better skyhook (maybe one that's adjustable, as cams are), then he could've had a better placement. Maybe an adjustable sky hook would be a next gear development, protecting blank faces the way that cams protect cracks.
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In reply to SenzuBean:
He had 5 or 6 hooks, some were deep and did fit to the back, and some were less deep such as the one in the picture. There were loads of holds similar to the one he's on, so you could get a few on.
He had 5 or 6 hooks, some were deep and did fit to the back, and some were less deep such as the one in the picture. There were loads of holds similar to the one he's on, so you could get a few on.
Post edited at 17:49
In reply to UKC News:
If this was a true on sight ground up with no inspection via abseil etc ... its very impressive .
If this was a true on sight ground up with no inspection via abseil etc ... its very impressive .
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In reply to andy farnell: Your camp & hysterical protestations everytime Franco pops his lovely head up suggest that far from despising him and all the wonderful things he stands for, you're rather in love with him. We all know that H grades are about being honest, so let's have some honesty about your love for this cheeky youth, you're amongst friends.
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In reply to UKC News:
Andy your obsession with franco is getting quite boring. Wind your neck in, cheers. On topic: That looks amazing and a fair bit terrifying
Andy your obsession with franco is getting quite boring. Wind your neck in, cheers. On topic: That looks amazing and a fair bit terrifying
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In reply to Michael Gordon:
I thought you might enjoy that. At least it would be the most precise grade in all those listed here!
I thought you might enjoy that. At least it would be the most precise grade in all those listed here!
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In reply to Michael Gordon:
Although 7b X is also an excellent way of describing the difficulties and seriousness of the route.
Andy F
> To paraphrase Andy F, "no it's E7/8"
Although 7b X is also an excellent way of describing the difficulties and seriousness of the route.
Andy F
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In reply to andy farnell:
"Although 7b X is also an excellent way of describing the difficulties and seriousness of the route."
Yet totally obsolete as its not a real grade, right?
"Although 7b X is also an excellent way of describing the difficulties and seriousness of the route."
Yet totally obsolete as its not a real grade, right?
Post edited at 13:09
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In reply to bensilvestre:
For something to be obsolete it needs to have existed and replaced by something new. Perhaps it's the E grade that's actually becoming obsolete. Grades are just metrics, none of them are real. Judging by Jacob's other thread about The Cad, he gets what it's about!
For something to be obsolete it needs to have existed and replaced by something new. Perhaps it's the E grade that's actually becoming obsolete. Grades are just metrics, none of them are real. Judging by Jacob's other thread about The Cad, he gets what it's about!
In reply to bensilvestre:
If not obsolete then redundant, yes.
>
> Yet totally obsolete as its not a real grade, right?
> Yet totally obsolete as its not a real grade, right?
If not obsolete then redundant, yes.
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Have you done it? What sport grade did you think the climbing it was? Did you clip the bolt?
Have you done it? What sport grade did you think the climbing it was? Did you clip the bolt?
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In reply to GrahamD:
Or if you had a 30m long sky hook, just hook the top of the crag.
You could even have it slightly longer, lean it against the top of the crag and put steps on it every foot or so.
Or if you had a 30m long sky hook, just hook the top of the crag.
You could even have it slightly longer, lean it against the top of the crag and put steps on it every foot or so.
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
No, I don't know anything about that route other than what I've read. What did you think to the grade? Like one or two others on that thread I do struggle to see the value of attaching a sport grade to a bold trad route but I guess it's interesting from an academic perspective.
No, I don't know anything about that route other than what I've read. What did you think to the grade? Like one or two others on that thread I do struggle to see the value of attaching a sport grade to a bold trad route but I guess it's interesting from an academic perspective.
In reply to UKC News:
I recall seeing pictures of routes on Cloggy, Lithrig perhaps, back in the 60's with sticky tape holding the slings in place.
Al
I recall seeing pictures of routes on Cloggy, Lithrig perhaps, back in the 60's with sticky tape holding the slings in place.
Al
Post edited at 18:36
In reply to John Roberts (JR):
Sorry, obsolete was the wrong word. Useless perhaps. I just wanted to point out Farnells hypocrisy (based in his undying love for Franco) in suggesting 7B X (an unestablished system) as a viable grade having already said:
"No, it'll be E7. As it says in the guide. H grades only exist in the magical mythical places. Elsewhere they use real grades. "
As it stands I actually think the American system of attaching a PG13, R, or X to the numerical grade works much better than the E grading system (which is basically imcomprehensible to foreigners), thus using a similar system with the already well established French sport grading system would make a lot of sense, particularly for the harder routes, which are often head pointed, thus necessitating a grade that isn't given for the on sight attempt.
Of course the suggested system does nothing to distinguish between a true on sight, abseil inspected, or headpointed attempt, thus I suggest each route receive four grades. It would look good in the guidebook too...
The complete scream. E8/A7/H7, 6b (7B X)
This is the only logical way to go.
Sorry, obsolete was the wrong word. Useless perhaps. I just wanted to point out Farnells hypocrisy (based in his undying love for Franco) in suggesting 7B X (an unestablished system) as a viable grade having already said:
"No, it'll be E7. As it says in the guide. H grades only exist in the magical mythical places. Elsewhere they use real grades. "
As it stands I actually think the American system of attaching a PG13, R, or X to the numerical grade works much better than the E grading system (which is basically imcomprehensible to foreigners), thus using a similar system with the already well established French sport grading system would make a lot of sense, particularly for the harder routes, which are often head pointed, thus necessitating a grade that isn't given for the on sight attempt.
Of course the suggested system does nothing to distinguish between a true on sight, abseil inspected, or headpointed attempt, thus I suggest each route receive four grades. It would look good in the guidebook too...
The complete scream. E8/A7/H7, 6b (7B X)
This is the only logical way to go.
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In reply to bensilvestre:
Surely the best argument to keep it?
> the E grading system (which is basically imcomprehensible to foreigners)
Surely the best argument to keep it?
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In reply to bensilvestre: You forgot to add the bouldering grade for the crux. It should have read:
E8/A7/H7 6b (7b X) Font 6C+/V5
Sorted for ya
Andy F
E8/A7/H7 6b (7b X) Font 6C+/V5
Sorted for ya
Andy F
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In reply to bensilvestre:
Ah sorry, I misunderstood the context.
Amen...
btw great blog I read the other day of yours http://www.nectarclimbing.com/words/my-dirty-little-secret
> Sorry, obsolete was the wrong word. Useless perhaps. I just wanted to point out Farnells hypocrisy (based in his undying love for Franco) in suggesting 7B X (an unestablished system) as a viable grade having already said:
Ah sorry, I misunderstood the context.
> As it stands I actually think the American system of attaching a PG13, R, or X to the numerical grade works much better than the E grading system (which is basically incomprehensible to foreigners), thus using a similar system with the already well established French sport grading system would make a lot of sense, particularly for the harder routes, which are often head pointed, thus necessitating a grade that isn't given for the on sight attempt.
Amen...
btw great blog I read the other day of yours http://www.nectarclimbing.com/words/my-dirty-little-secret
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In reply to 1poundSOCKS:
You're totally right, although I'm increasingly keen on Andy's E8/A7/H7 6b (F7b X) 6c+ V5. That would really screw those foreigners up
And thank you John, you can read more at https://bensilvestreclimbs.wordpress.com (please excuse the shameless plug)
You're totally right, although I'm increasingly keen on Andy's E8/A7/H7 6b (F7b X) 6c+ V5. That would really screw those foreigners up
And thank you John, you can read more at https://bensilvestreclimbs.wordpress.com (please excuse the shameless plug)
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In reply to FactorXXX:
UKC re-inventing the ladder
> Or if you had a 30m long sky hook, just hook the top of the crag.
> You could even have it slightly longer, lean it against the top of the crag and put steps on it every foot or so.
UKC re-inventing the ladder
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