UKC

At the beginning of the year I set myself the goal of climbing Regent Street (E2 5c), and then I knackered my hand ice climbing. While I wait for treatment ( proper diagnosis still pending ), Since jamming tends to cause me various degrees of pain (more than normal), I've been focussing on fingery climbs involving such alien concepts as technique and balance.

So, I've set myself a new goal of climbing Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b). I don't want any beta, but am interested in a list of climbs in the Peak up to E2 that would represent a good progression.

Cheers,
Andrew.

In reply to planetmarshall:

browns is just a still pull and with the runners you are actually safe at and just above the crux. Tower face at the plantation would be good as its all straight forward until one bold feeling move but again if you fluffed it you wouldnt deck out. knightsbridge at millstone is also really good but does have some finger jams in it so not sure if this would be any good. fern hill and five finger exercise are of course massive contenders for some of the top e2's on grit but having not done them cant comment further, friend says they are pretty on par with regent street.

On the limestone there is plenty to go at at that grade. on high tor debauchery is fantastic and i will be going back very soon for delicatessen. others that have stood out on limestone mainly being on chee tor; sergeyenna, mediation and two sunspets are really good. Again i havent done the last one but am told its fantastic and worthy of 3 stars.


just some food for thought but there is so much to go at that fits what your looking for just find a route that calls to you! all the best with the recovery!

In reply to jmills94:

Queersville at Stanage Popular is maybe a good progression from Tower Face. Albeit both HVS rather than E1.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Wall climbs in the Peak up to E2? Limestone.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Brown's Eliminate is pretty bottom end E2, so similar style E2's are likely to be harder.

There's plenty to do on quarried grit in a similar style - boldish but straightforward face climbing on reasonably positive edge. Millwheel Wall would be the obvious intermediate target and is very good in its own right. Prior to that you'd probably want to be comfortable soloing the stuff on the Gingerbread Slab at Lawrencefield. I recall there being some relevant things at Yarncliffe too, although I only went there once and most of it is very slabby & considerably easier.

In reply to planetmarshall:

I like wall climbing on small holds much more than cracks and grooves and stuff, but this style is quite hard to come by in the Peak. I'd head out to the limestone at this time of year to avoid the sweat and midges.

The real classic would be Bicycle Repair Man, a lovely wall climb on crimps on good rock (yes, on Peak lime) but I gather Staden is no more. The E2s were good too.

If it comes in to reasonable nick - not sure what it's like at the moment - then Chee Tor has fantastic E1s and E2s in a sustained wall-climbing style. The popular E1s are very good: Nostradamus (quite easy, a broken flake-line, generally big holds), Meditation (delicate traversy 1st crux followed by some steeper pulls to finish) and Sergeyenna (blatantly E2, brilliant climbing on generally good holds). Hergiani is a nice fingery soft E2.

Stoney, of course has some horrible routes on polished nonsense: Padme, Mani and Om are wall-climbs, so is Dead Banana Crack really (it's mainly holds and crimps, not jamming really). If you want to get really fingery, head to Rheinstor - Valhalla at HVS going on E2 is polished pocket-pulling affair unlike much else in the Peak. Talking of pockets, Beeston has great routes on the Pocket Symphony wall at E1/2. Big holds, just hang on and place the threads (taking the right kit for this will help, but the routes are pretty soft).

On a cool, breezy day when the grit is a good option, Great Peter is a good route on small holds rather than jams. Millwheel Wall is a good crimpy outing that could be exactly what you're looking for. Stanage Popular has lots of good E1 walls like Morrison's Redoubt, Saliva, Acheron (that's an arete but the crimpy eliminate just right is about the same grade), Desperation (you have to crimp/pull pretty hard on that one), Gullible's Travels.

Enjoy!

In reply to Jon Stewart:


It's still there and you can still climb there

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

That's good - not been filled in with a huge factory then.

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

And just down the road from me. I suppose it's time to extend my repertoire to Peak Limestone, then.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Swan Song is good too. It's a bit of an eliminate on BRM, maybe a touch harder.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Brightside
Welcome to Hard Times, Indirect finish
Mather Crack

All the routes on the pocket symphony wall as above

In reply to planetmarshall:

Brightside at Froggatt is good if you can get out from the desperate chimney section (Severe) it's a nice little wall with gear. Never been on Brown's so no idea which is harder.

The Staden recommendations are good.

jk

In reply to planetmarshall:

Billy Whizz?

In reply to jkarran:




Brightside considerably harder climbing. Feels less bold

In reply to planetmarshall:

Lots of good suggestions here. Particularly about the limestone. Delicatessen and Debauchery are fantastic, particularly the E2. All of the E2s of the Windy Ledge at Stoney are great and worth doing. Technique and balance are definitely useful there. Armageddon is particularly nice. Well protected and technical.

I did Fern Hill and FFE at Cratciffe recently. Fern Hill I found very enjoyable and straight forward, though I know a lot of people struggle with the first crux at the start of the traverse. That's technical for sure (and a bit powerful I suppose). FFE on the other hand requires everything (apart from jams). Technique, balance, power, and a good head game. Well worth doing. If you can get up Suicide Wall there the E2s should be fine!

In reply to all:

Good suggestions on the thread.

Also,

Dark Continent
Swings
Greengrocer Wall

White Out

In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

Brightside is nails compared to Brown's eliminate, assuming you swing out as low as possible onto the face and not above the chockstone. It does at least have perfect protection all the way up, so not all bad.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Go climb all the starred VS, HVS and E1 wall/ steep-slab climbs at Curbar. BE will feel easy after that. Alternately, stop after HVS and your prep will still be OK.

In reply to planetmarshall:

Desperation at Stanage was my first E1 (although when I was capable of doing it E grades had not really been invented and it was just given Exremely Severe). It is one of the best in the grade imao; a little jewel. Kirkus' Corner ,also a favourite , might fit the bill as well

In reply to planetmarshall:

Thanks all for your suggestions - think I have plenty to put some sort of plan together, weather permitting. I've barely done anything on limestone so that seems a good place to start.

Cheers,
Andrew.

In reply to planetmarshall:

What about that great classic, Suspense?

In reply to Al Evans:

Yes, crimpy and technical! No jams there and pretty safe after the first straight forward slab. Scoop Connection which goes left at the top of the slab is also very intense and technical, though at E3 may be a little bold for this list. That being said, going for Brown's Eliminate means a good head will be required.

In reply to Al Evans:

Bloody hard crux and bold for a new E2 leader

In reply to planetmarshall:

I haven't done much at this grade, but from what I have done I recommend Drizzle at hobson moor quarry as a great bit of safe face climbing. Don't be put off by the grade... if I can do it then anyone can

In reply to ashtond6:

New leaders doing E2 are rare.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Yes and you can warm up on Parkers Eliminate.

In reply to JamieSparkes:

please try & explain this! I did it and heard you are supposed to go right really low

I have repeated it twice since and cannot work out where???! seems like an eliminate any other way

In reply to planetmarshall:

Brightside. Quite tricky crux moves but not unreasonable for E2.

In reply to ashtond6:

The proper way is to hand traverse the gear slot. Lesser mortals bridge higher and traverse with their feet in the gear slot.

In reply to deacondeacon:

ahh ok I think that's the way I've done it - really fun climbing!