UKC

I'm off to the alps in less than 4 weeks for some classic alpinism at around PD - AD, I'm interested in any useful tips people have gained over the years that they would like to pass on...

I am pretty sure this sort of thread has been done before, but I thought there are probably a lot of people getting excited for holidays around this time of year and it's always good to have a fresh thread.

I'll start:

Cut up/scan/Print off maps off A4 maps of the routes you plan on going on to save carrying one large map of the area.

Photocopy the route description to save carrying the guidebook, make sure all members of the party have access to this so they can be reading it on the belays / can read it for themselves when they ask you for the Nth time what the guidebook says.

Use guide mode on belays to allow yourself to snack when needed.

Buy lots of stupidly expensive but lightweight gear - OK that one is just for me!

Any more?

In reply to BStar:

Wearing your new boots shopping at ASDA does NOT wear them in sufficiently.

In reply to BStar:

Raise expectation of how massive everything's going to look, how hostile it's all going to seem and how expensive it's going to be.

In turn lower expectation of achievement.

Have fun!

In reply to BStar:

apply first coat of suncream as you get ready.

For the first week add at least 25% on to your time estimations if going off the end of your last season. Have contingencies for even being much slower / unexpected route traffic.

In reply to BStar:

Don't carry too much.

Rather than guide mode consider using an Italian hitch or, if safe to do so, just take a bight round a rock spike.

Move together as often as you can when it feels safe enough to do so. The harder you can do this the faster you will be.

Drink plenty. De-hydration is one of the biggest contributors to altitude sickness and poor performance.

Most of all have fun

Al

In reply to BStar:

Take less kit on the route. The lightest kit is that which you leave behind.

On a bivvy, store your water bottle upside down - in the morning when it's frozen up the ice isn't blocking the neck.

Put a small plastic pipe (brewing kit syphon pipes are ideal) inside your water bottle then you can get water from pools etc.

On a bivvy, get in to your sleeping bag ASAP while you are still warm from climbing - easier to keep warm than get warm again.

In reply to BStar:

Learn to drop coils, add coils, convert from pitched to moving together in a blink of an eye.

Travel light and do all admin in one stop, head torch, suncream, jacket, drink, snack....all done in a condensed 5-10min stop.. then blast off.. never stop for few mins for each of these individually.

In reply to BStar:

Good thread. I'm off to the Alps on Friday for two weeks. Psyche is high!

Here is a couple:

Limit the size of your rack to twenty karabiners.

Memorize the route description the night before.

Practice crevasse rescue with your partner.

Arrive at the hut/bivi early and spend the afternoon checking out the approach/start of the next days climb. Well worth the effort.

In reply to BStar:

Don't be afraid to sweat.

The less clothing you wear, the faster you will move to keep warm.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Don't bother dicking about with a rope if the glacier is snow free. On the flip side, if you plan on going on a snow covered* glacier, then definitely do this.

*As a glaciologist by "trade" it drives me mental when people refer to wet and dry glaciers as a descriptor for snow cover.

In reply to BStar:

This depends a wee bit on where you're going.
Some of the Alpine Club guide books are pants when it comes to routes descriptions, times, descents and generally being up to date. In many Guides offices you can get a topo copy for a small fee. Probably as much time is lost due to route finding as faffy rope work etc.

For classic 4000'ers Morans' book is outstanding in it's detail and general friendliness.

Anything that doesn't specifically require care and attention: do it in a hurry.

With regards to 'guide mode'. If you're swinging leads it'll cost you time to change from that to 'belaying from below mode'. So if you are direct in autolock then use the time for something useful!

In reply to BStar:

Get to sleep before the snorer does.

If you are the snorer then you will have no difficulty sleeping.

In reply to davidbeynon:

Earplugs and a nightcap (alcohol, if it works for you).

Find a pace and rhythm that allows you to walk without stopping for hours.

Keep some stuff in your pockets, like nibbles, topo, suncream - so you don't have to stop.

On an approach, set off feeling a bit cold, you will soon warm up.

In reply to BStar:

Dont place your helmet upside down on a snowy/icy slope.

In reply to BStar:

Take photos of maps, route descriptions, topos etc. on your mobile, particularly useful if you want to enlarge maps for more detail.
Make sure your mobile has useful apps already loaded before you leave - torch, lat/long, clinometer, etc.
Name, blood type, emergency contact etc. on a neck tag.
Make a will, and make sure somebody knows where it is
Have fun
JW

In reply to BStar:
There are routes which have changed almost beyond recognition since some guidebooks were written. A good example is the Tournette Spur, subject of a recent thread here, which has evidently become a serious undertaking but used to be given PD. The north slope of Mt Blanc de Tacul was safe and very easy indeed when I did it in 1987: a smooth, even snowfield. It is now often heavily crevassed and threatened by seracs. And there are some routes which, inexplicably, were once popular, where you need to be a loose rock (or dust) addict with nerves of steel: an example here would be the traverse of the Gandoliere in the Ecrins, where many have had epics expecting a nice, non-serious warm-up.

So always seek recent, well-informed advice. Hut wardens know the local score better than anyone. Equally, you can sometimes get lucky, and find things much easier than expected. The Brenva Spur changes dramatically from year to year. The approach to the Col de Peuterey can be fraught and highly dangerous. Or it can be a trivial, pleasant romp. I could go on...

In reply to BStar:

it's been hot and dry for allmost a month now and forecast is for not much change. I would re plan with rock routes in mind. We might be looking at a 2003 re run when the perma frost holding 4000m hills together failed and big lumps fell of the dru the matterhorn and many other hills.

take care