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sport climbing in Cornwall?

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 climberchristy 13 Jul 2015

Hi

Got a week booked in Cornwall in August. Going with family. My wife doesn't climb any more due to injury but is a willing belayer. So, if I'm to climb down there it preferably needs to be sport so I can lower off and strip gear without the faff of abbing off etc. Also preferably with easy access (again due to wife's injury issues.) I'm from the North east and totally unfamiliar with climbing in Cornwall except that I know it's famous for it's fabulous climbing but (as far as I know) not very known for sport routes? Staying near St Ives but willing to drive a fair way. Any suggestions please?
Post edited at 17:07
In reply to climberchristy:

Bouldering may be your friend - there's Clodgy within a short walk of the town.

Sport happens mostly in Devon. There is a bunch of bolted routes around the Cheesewring and Luxulyan, but they're a PITA to get to from where you'll be.

There should be locals happy to come out for the day - I won't be around, but put something up on the partners forum and you ought to be ok.
 Sean Kelly 13 Jul 2015
In reply to climberchristy:

No real sport in Cornwall but why not top rope on some of the smaller crags?
 Ban1 13 Jul 2015
In reply to climberchris

i was at bosigran a couple of weeks ago and saw a couple that sent up a top rope on alison rib wall.
 Misha 13 Jul 2015
In reply to climberchristy:

Cheesewring quarry

Failing that, there was once reputed to be a bolt on Eroica...
 Iain Peters 13 Jul 2015
In reply to climberchristy:

No sport within easy reach, but there's plenty of single pitch trad with easy access that doesn't wander around too much. Sennen, St Loy, and many of the S Coast smaller crags. On the Lizard, you have Hollywood Walls, and a fair clutch of routes around Lizard Point itself or Trewavas a granite crag, easy of access and non-tidal. Good bouldering and single pitch at Aire Point close to the excellent surf and sand beach of Gwynver near Sennen.
 Tom Last 13 Jul 2015
In reply to climberchristy:

Yeah don't bother with sport climbing in Cornwall. The sports routes in Luxulyan will be ming as they always are (and that's coming from Luxy's biggest fan!), the stuff in Cheesewring is good, but weird and stays wet. Plus you'll need to drive away from all the good local crags already mentioned to get to it. Staying west is good advice.
In reply to climberchristy:

Thanks to everyone who has responded. I appreciate the advice. Cheers

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