In reply to Just Tintin:
More Randalisation this week – but having to cut back on outdoor climbing as the finger ain’t playing ball
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor – crimpy & front on board style too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goals.
- Spanish super routes – Feb 2016 – La Perla, (8b+), La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+),
Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
LTG (2015):
>8b+ RP options:
- Cry Freedom & Unjustified, Malham.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG.
- need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap
- Get stronger without aggravating injuries
- Put time into the 4 projects I’ve bolted.
- 8a+/b’s
- if finger plays ball: Well Done finish, Straight jacket, Waddage & Weedkiller/Chimes.
-
if shoulder plays ball, but finger still tweaky: Mecca Traverse, Mandela (TICK) & Guns in the sky
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
Repeat of last week
- Icing and rehab every day for finger and shoulder
- Controlled fingerboarding – front 2 and slopers only!
- Do some core, antag and bicep curls
- Get back out on the MTB - tick
- Maintain sub 76kg weight for Kilnsey project
Last week:
M - Rest day – DOMS/feeling beat up; needed ‘brufen at work – stretching, icing and foam roller.
T - Woke up feeling strong – good sign. Fingerboard an-cap 10:3 session @ 60% (+14kg), but it got very pumped on first 2 sets - felt more like aero-power? Antags, static and dynamic core. Bolted 2 short projects/link-ups in the 8a+/b region after training.
W - Tor after work – did Weedkiller for the first time in ages, then Mecca Traverse RPs. New highpoint matching undercut (crux) but failed to make the clip – decided to quest on to the guppy and clip by my waist, but never got that far with kneescum or heel/toe popping out on subsequent goes. Tried Perverse Reverse afterwards and had viable sequence, but pretty boxed from earlier efforts. Shoulder good, finger hurty.
T - Had planned to get out, but finger not happy – iced twice. Worked late instead.
F - Double frickin’ rest day. Icing, stretching and foam roller.
S - Kilnsey; working Guns in the Sky. 3 tie-ins; did the 7a+ twice. Worked out how to do leftwards traverse and where to clip all the bolts. Just 1 move and one transition to work out. 3rd tie-in – linked bolt 2 to 4 for first time, but failed on the BIG move before entering Mandela. Finger sore again by the end
S - TNF Grizedale. Thought I was going to get spanked by my companions in their fullface helmets, body armour and full bounce bikes; turns out they were slower than me in lycra on a hardtail! Gardening and FO campus aero-cap when home – 15x 60s on/50s off with 120 push-ups inbetween.
Weight static at 75.6kg & 6.7%BF but don’t feel so lean anymore – back on the diet!