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Link to last week's thread: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=620600
Still a lot of injuries and frustration this week. At the BMC Physical Training thing last week, Tom Randall once again said that thing that everyone says about best practice of resting something for 2 weeks for any injury. Then reassess, then 2 weeks etc. I know we’re all bad at resting and resist swallowing best practice but the example he gave was Pete Whittaker being really good at this and never having had anything he couldn’t kick quickly, and thus is the most uninjured climber he knows…a thought anyhow.
Tagging out for now, so thanks to Ally for picking up the baton next week. Tintin
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all. A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: Not a huge amount of climbing, but very inspirational for me to see someone making big goals and watching her tick them off this year: youtube.com/watch?v=2SVIC-yhnf8&
Last week's posters:
Joughton – in shape, great stats and a lot of learnings about what to work on/when to rest for next time AND a BHAG of Mecca. Great few weeks!
Exile – Hope you’re enjoying the Alps and active recovery. Sounds like some fairly serious endurance this week. What do you need to be training to tick Middle Earth?
AJM – Complete training week – tick! And that is quite a cycle. What’s the psyche book of choice for a chilled evening?
Dandan82 – Working your way through the medical system. Too many variables to know what’s affecting the pain, but sounds like you’re on a sensible plan – just think how solid your core will be! The steroids are magic while they last– my climbing partner had them for knee and had to reminded he wasn’t superhuman as he was better than new and wanting to push it too much.
Tyler – A few frustrations. Fewer diet contraventions this week? Was it Dead Calm or Cave Route Left in the end?
mrchewy – I have to confess I go up there with good intentions of systems but just love the gym rings as I can play around like a kid… Good work pushing yourself this week given the number of times almost vomited and general level of burn!
Nick Russell –While in rehab mode, it sounds like time to adjust the STGs to nail the running and weight loss, and get a plan together for asymmetry.
mattrm – Lazy week but a decent indoor session – what have you got planned for August?
Ally Smith – Finger hurty but a decent week all the same. Feeling leaner this week?
hms – Glad to hear the shoulder has been given the okay. Did you bribe a belayer to Cheddar?
Humperdink – Didn’t read that properly and thought you’d flown to the US to go on a treadmill for a second. That being said, great result both in placing and in gameplan in the race. A more normal week this week?
planetmarshall – See suggestions in last week’s thread for HVSs. How did you get on on Tuesday?
flopsicle – Did you get on the comp this week? Sounds like you’re on it for the dangling, but definitely consider falls practice into space from the overhang. It is seriously liberating and from experience delivering sessions on it, you will be surprised about how ungirly your reactions are compared to lots of guys (who squeal and have the kicky feet!)
Mutl3y – Psyched and light – that’s what we like to hear! Keep up the good work over the holiday week. Not having access to the wall might be a good opportunity to try that new workout? The yellow that frustrated me was that balancy one round the corner with the double finger pocket and high smear, which was odd as usually my thing.
biscuit – Thanks for going to the effort of describing the stretch – will keep it in the arsenal of magic stretches for when needed! Looking forward with realistic aims and evolving the plan as you go. Did you manage the mileage this week?
alexm198 – A good haul and the goal ticked. How do you feel your CV fitness is compared to a few weeks ago?
Just Tintin – Back on the balance and training antagonists. Everyone’s weight loss is putting you to shame…get on the scales this week!
Joyce – Fun and games at the Yat! Completely agree with you about Vertigo – perfect spot for lunch on a quiet day (soloed with a rack of sandwiches and pineapple). Looking forward to seeing the training plan.
AWOL
Cheese Monkey, themattyshep, 0.5viking, Creedence, Ian Rock, mbh, The Ex-Engineer.
Still a lot of injuries and frustration this week. At the BMC Physical Training thing last week, Tom Randall once again said that thing that everyone says about best practice of resting something for 2 weeks for any injury. Then reassess, then 2 weeks etc. I know we’re all bad at resting and resist swallowing best practice but the example he gave was Pete Whittaker being really good at this and never having had anything he couldn’t kick quickly, and thus is the most uninjured climber he knows…a thought anyhow.
Tagging out for now, so thanks to Ally for picking up the baton next week. Tintin
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all. A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: Not a huge amount of climbing, but very inspirational for me to see someone making big goals and watching her tick them off this year: youtube.com/watch?v=2SVIC-yhnf8&
Last week's posters:
Joughton – in shape, great stats and a lot of learnings about what to work on/when to rest for next time AND a BHAG of Mecca. Great few weeks!
Exile – Hope you’re enjoying the Alps and active recovery. Sounds like some fairly serious endurance this week. What do you need to be training to tick Middle Earth?
AJM – Complete training week – tick! And that is quite a cycle. What’s the psyche book of choice for a chilled evening?
Dandan82 – Working your way through the medical system. Too many variables to know what’s affecting the pain, but sounds like you’re on a sensible plan – just think how solid your core will be! The steroids are magic while they last– my climbing partner had them for knee and had to reminded he wasn’t superhuman as he was better than new and wanting to push it too much.
Tyler – A few frustrations. Fewer diet contraventions this week? Was it Dead Calm or Cave Route Left in the end?
mrchewy – I have to confess I go up there with good intentions of systems but just love the gym rings as I can play around like a kid… Good work pushing yourself this week given the number of times almost vomited and general level of burn!
Nick Russell –While in rehab mode, it sounds like time to adjust the STGs to nail the running and weight loss, and get a plan together for asymmetry.
mattrm – Lazy week but a decent indoor session – what have you got planned for August?
Ally Smith – Finger hurty but a decent week all the same. Feeling leaner this week?
hms – Glad to hear the shoulder has been given the okay. Did you bribe a belayer to Cheddar?
Humperdink – Didn’t read that properly and thought you’d flown to the US to go on a treadmill for a second. That being said, great result both in placing and in gameplan in the race. A more normal week this week?
planetmarshall – See suggestions in last week’s thread for HVSs. How did you get on on Tuesday?
flopsicle – Did you get on the comp this week? Sounds like you’re on it for the dangling, but definitely consider falls practice into space from the overhang. It is seriously liberating and from experience delivering sessions on it, you will be surprised about how ungirly your reactions are compared to lots of guys (who squeal and have the kicky feet!)
Mutl3y – Psyched and light – that’s what we like to hear! Keep up the good work over the holiday week. Not having access to the wall might be a good opportunity to try that new workout? The yellow that frustrated me was that balancy one round the corner with the double finger pocket and high smear, which was odd as usually my thing.
biscuit – Thanks for going to the effort of describing the stretch – will keep it in the arsenal of magic stretches for when needed! Looking forward with realistic aims and evolving the plan as you go. Did you manage the mileage this week?
alexm198 – A good haul and the goal ticked. How do you feel your CV fitness is compared to a few weeks ago?
Just Tintin – Back on the balance and training antagonists. Everyone’s weight loss is putting you to shame…get on the scales this week!
Joyce – Fun and games at the Yat! Completely agree with you about Vertigo – perfect spot for lunch on a quiet day (soloed with a rack of sandwiches and pineapple). Looking forward to seeing the training plan.
AWOL
Cheese Monkey, themattyshep, 0.5viking, Creedence, Ian Rock, mbh, The Ex-Engineer.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks Tintin, taken my own and everyone else's advice and kicked back this week, just core workouts and some static stretches of the problem elbows, along with no aggravating activities, so no climbing, no DIY and no gaming all evening.
The upshot is, I think I'm finally recovering!
Less tweaky pain in day to day tasks and some of my benchmark actions are feeling better, for example I have a large round jar of sugar in a head height cupboard, I can now lift it out and return it to the cupboard with no discomfort, definitely an improvement.
I'm going to continue like this for the next week as I'm far from fit yet, fingers crossed though!
M:
T: exercise ball core workout, getting quite tough now but still great fun.
W:
T: exercise ball core workout
F:
S:
S:
Not a lot to report but I'm a happy chap, I contacted Robin earlier in the week about my options for cancelling the Kaly trip, but I'm now much more hopeful that it's still going to be possible. 😃
Thanks Tintin, taken my own and everyone else's advice and kicked back this week, just core workouts and some static stretches of the problem elbows, along with no aggravating activities, so no climbing, no DIY and no gaming all evening.
The upshot is, I think I'm finally recovering!
Less tweaky pain in day to day tasks and some of my benchmark actions are feeling better, for example I have a large round jar of sugar in a head height cupboard, I can now lift it out and return it to the cupboard with no discomfort, definitely an improvement.
I'm going to continue like this for the next week as I'm far from fit yet, fingers crossed though!
M:
T: exercise ball core workout, getting quite tough now but still great fun.
W:
T: exercise ball core workout
F:
S:
S:
Not a lot to report but I'm a happy chap, I contacted Robin earlier in the week about my options for cancelling the Kaly trip, but I'm now much more hopeful that it's still going to be possible. 😃
In reply to Just Tintin:
Hey just, the yellow that I found tricky was the one opposite the beastmakers on the left. It was a right swine.
Back from holiday now. I wish I had done some sort of exercise routine rather than just eat treats and drink beer all week. But I didn't. Oh well no regrets.
Bouldering on Thursday - a very brief easy session on the RAC Boulders, near capel curig. Lovely place.
Training yesterday - scored 72/84 on the Beastmaker 5B circuit with 6 seconds on, 4 off. This is actually my best since i started things up again a few weeks back. Fairly pleased. Also did some pull ups, holds, leg raises, and 1/2 hour of stretches. Flexibility is a big weakness.
Weight - 66.7kgs this morning up from 64.5 before going on hols. Oh dear! That'll come off quickly tho I'm sure. Easy come easy go and all that.
Mojo - keen to crack on.
Plan -
1. reach previous strong point on the Beastmaker. Don't know how but I guess I'll just have to give it some beans.
2. Stretch legs for 1/2hr every night.
3. Plan + build wall in garage. I have no excuses here. If I don't get it done in the next few months it'll never happen.
4. Crack on with ticking that ticklist!
Hey just, the yellow that I found tricky was the one opposite the beastmakers on the left. It was a right swine.
Back from holiday now. I wish I had done some sort of exercise routine rather than just eat treats and drink beer all week. But I didn't. Oh well no regrets.
Bouldering on Thursday - a very brief easy session on the RAC Boulders, near capel curig. Lovely place.
Training yesterday - scored 72/84 on the Beastmaker 5B circuit with 6 seconds on, 4 off. This is actually my best since i started things up again a few weeks back. Fairly pleased. Also did some pull ups, holds, leg raises, and 1/2 hour of stretches. Flexibility is a big weakness.
Weight - 66.7kgs this morning up from 64.5 before going on hols. Oh dear! That'll come off quickly tho I'm sure. Easy come easy go and all that.
Mojo - keen to crack on.
Plan -
1. reach previous strong point on the Beastmaker. Don't know how but I guess I'll just have to give it some beans.
2. Stretch legs for 1/2hr every night.
3. Plan + build wall in garage. I have no excuses here. If I don't get it done in the next few months it'll never happen.
4. Crack on with ticking that ticklist!
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks Tintin. It was the 100 best routes in the mb massif that I was relaxing with. Very nice photos.
Not a bad week this week. 2 good ancap sessions, a 1-on-1-off session, and some conditioning work.
I'm going to leave 2 sessions to roll into next week though - we had a party this weekend and I was up til 4am - despite my best efforts I only managed some conditioning work at the wall before wretchedness overcame me. I figure it's best to do better quality sessions tomorrow rather than crap ones today.
Nothing outdoors. Will try next week. Hopefully something up north next weekend too.
3 cycle commutes, nothing else.
> AJM – Complete training week – tick! And that is quite a cycle. What’s the psyche book of choice for a chilled evening?
Thanks Tintin. It was the 100 best routes in the mb massif that I was relaxing with. Very nice photos.
Not a bad week this week. 2 good ancap sessions, a 1-on-1-off session, and some conditioning work.
I'm going to leave 2 sessions to roll into next week though - we had a party this weekend and I was up til 4am - despite my best efforts I only managed some conditioning work at the wall before wretchedness overcame me. I figure it's best to do better quality sessions tomorrow rather than crap ones today.
Nothing outdoors. Will try next week. Hopefully something up north next weekend too.
3 cycle commutes, nothing else.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Yes I did indeed get to Cheddar. Bribery is a valid form of parenting!
M - cycle commute. Fingerboard on slopers (after the Armistice crimps my finger joints were telling me a lay off a bit) the S&C x 2
T - cycle commute. Redpoint in evening. V hot & sticky. Got a dozen routes done but totally shut down by a swine of a 7a.
W - cycle commute.
T - Day swap at work. Cheddar session. Clipsticked a rope up Circus Circus, then 2 TR goes. There are 2 short sequences I can't get, one on greasy crimps (a good brushing would probably help) and then the moves to get into the top groove where I wasn't trusting my feet and couldn't quite get the balance right. Definitely one to work though - felt far more possible than Valley of the Blind which I wasn't keen on at all.
F - cycle commute. TCA in afternoon. Got another 6 of the reds, so 8 left. 5 of them are marked as hard, 1 I can't risk cos it has a reach over backwards LH move which is v shoulder-unfriendly, 1 I don't seem to have the span & 1 is really annoying me!
S - Bloc. I always seem to find that is sucks the psyche out of me.
S - having a few days break away from home with strictly no climbing allowed, so some mild walking and quite a lot of eating.
weather for coming week not looking hopeful. Weekend of rock next weekend if it stops raining.
Yes I did indeed get to Cheddar. Bribery is a valid form of parenting!
M - cycle commute. Fingerboard on slopers (after the Armistice crimps my finger joints were telling me a lay off a bit) the S&C x 2
T - cycle commute. Redpoint in evening. V hot & sticky. Got a dozen routes done but totally shut down by a swine of a 7a.
W - cycle commute.
T - Day swap at work. Cheddar session. Clipsticked a rope up Circus Circus, then 2 TR goes. There are 2 short sequences I can't get, one on greasy crimps (a good brushing would probably help) and then the moves to get into the top groove where I wasn't trusting my feet and couldn't quite get the balance right. Definitely one to work though - felt far more possible than Valley of the Blind which I wasn't keen on at all.
F - cycle commute. TCA in afternoon. Got another 6 of the reds, so 8 left. 5 of them are marked as hard, 1 I can't risk cos it has a reach over backwards LH move which is v shoulder-unfriendly, 1 I don't seem to have the span & 1 is really annoying me!
S - Bloc. I always seem to find that is sucks the psyche out of me.
S - having a few days break away from home with strictly no climbing allowed, so some mild walking and quite a lot of eating.
weather for coming week not looking hopeful. Weekend of rock next weekend if it stops raining.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Cheers JT! Very detailed write up.
A good week at last. I'm taking it purposefully easy, but still finding it hard.
My levels are much lower than I thought.
3 climbing sessions. One attempt at a twelve route pyramid topping at a whopping 6c. Failed in a 6b+, failed on the 6c, failed on a different, easier, 6c then gave up and did a 6a+ to finish. Just about made it up that one. Wow! I have no stamina.
2nd session was on the auto belay. Went ok, but disjointed due to work. I think I got 8 routes in topping out at 6c+.
3rd was bouldering. That was worse than the routes. Less said the better. No timing, no snap, no dynamism or commitment. Other than that it was good.
Got a couple of s+c sessions in and shoulder pre/re-hab. Again easy stuff to get going.
Next week I'm going to try for the same again with the aim of completing the 6c pyramid.
Diet has been pretty consistently good with a day off yesterday. Scales say 19.2% average body fat. I'd just like to state that they've always been about 5% out, but consistent. Need to drop 0.5% this week.
8 days straight in work coming up so it'll be indoors only then two weeks off work with the kids do I'll get what I can done then.
Cheers JT! Very detailed write up.
A good week at last. I'm taking it purposefully easy, but still finding it hard.
My levels are much lower than I thought.
3 climbing sessions. One attempt at a twelve route pyramid topping at a whopping 6c. Failed in a 6b+, failed on the 6c, failed on a different, easier, 6c then gave up and did a 6a+ to finish. Just about made it up that one. Wow! I have no stamina.
2nd session was on the auto belay. Went ok, but disjointed due to work. I think I got 8 routes in topping out at 6c+.
3rd was bouldering. That was worse than the routes. Less said the better. No timing, no snap, no dynamism or commitment. Other than that it was good.
Got a couple of s+c sessions in and shoulder pre/re-hab. Again easy stuff to get going.
Next week I'm going to try for the same again with the aim of completing the 6c pyramid.
Diet has been pretty consistently good with a day off yesterday. Scales say 19.2% average body fat. I'd just like to state that they've always been about 5% out, but consistent. Need to drop 0.5% this week.
8 days straight in work coming up so it'll be indoors only then two weeks off work with the kids do I'll get what I can done then.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Cheers Tin - I tend to stay away from rings as I'm way too fat for my shoulders to cope! Thanks for doing this for a few weeks. Interesting thoughts about injury - It took two weeks of not lifting my arm above my head to sort the bicipital tendonitis but it did sort it. I'm aware it's unhappy but it's cope-able now.
STG - (Aug) Salbit Sudgrat.
MTG - Tick some stuff in Spain.
LTG - Salbit West Ridge and something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA.
Mon - Pinnacle systems board. Worked undercuts and sidepulls.
Tue - Rest. Fingers sore after three days on.
Wed - Water-cum-jolly. Mate wanted to tick Incapacity Benefit 7a+, so worked that with him.
Thu - Yoga
Fri - Pinnacle. Ropes on comp wall. Flashed 6a, failed 6a, failed 6a+ and decided I just have no psyche for indoor ropes. Lapped a 5+. Then got on the systems board with a smile. Did better on everything! Even got a hold further on my made up project on wooden holds. Lapped the yellow and blacks and almost ticked the black problem. No grades on non of this.
Sat - Worked.
Sun - Climbing Hanger, Derby. Volume session, legged around doing all the easy stuff missing holds practising locks offs and rockovers. Ticked an orange easily (6B-C circuit) that was crimpy, tried a few pinks and then loads of easy stuff again. 3hrs.
Friday was the last session of just trying really hard moves - it's been a couple of months now, including the two weeks of tendonitis and the fingers feel like they need a rest from the brutality. Feel stronger than I ever have in general, lockoffs and finger strength are up but endurance is down. Pullups too.
WCJ was amazing - what a venue. Psyched to get stronger to be able to climb there. Never ticked anything harder than 6b, not a redpointer at all but warmed up on Incapacity and started the process. Had to work out a whole load of different beta for me due to the wrist, including a mono gaston to nail the rockover but got it sorted to the third bolt, which is way better than I expected. The crux will take me forever but the hold over the big roof is doable with the wrist, which leaves the crappy crimp match after the third bolt as maybe the crux for me. I really enjoyed myself to be honest, no stopper move for the wrist and I reckon I'm strong enough if I get my footwork right one day. Will head back, weather dependent when I get back from Swizzy but it's a project for after Spain if I'm honest.
Won't report in for a couple of weeks now, as down Portland for three days next weekend and then straight to Swizzy to hopefully bag Salbit South Ridge.
Happy climbing everyone.
Cheers Tin - I tend to stay away from rings as I'm way too fat for my shoulders to cope! Thanks for doing this for a few weeks. Interesting thoughts about injury - It took two weeks of not lifting my arm above my head to sort the bicipital tendonitis but it did sort it. I'm aware it's unhappy but it's cope-able now.
STG - (Aug) Salbit Sudgrat.
MTG - Tick some stuff in Spain.
LTG - Salbit West Ridge and something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA.
Mon - Pinnacle systems board. Worked undercuts and sidepulls.
Tue - Rest. Fingers sore after three days on.
Wed - Water-cum-jolly. Mate wanted to tick Incapacity Benefit 7a+, so worked that with him.
Thu - Yoga
Fri - Pinnacle. Ropes on comp wall. Flashed 6a, failed 6a, failed 6a+ and decided I just have no psyche for indoor ropes. Lapped a 5+. Then got on the systems board with a smile. Did better on everything! Even got a hold further on my made up project on wooden holds. Lapped the yellow and blacks and almost ticked the black problem. No grades on non of this.
Sat - Worked.
Sun - Climbing Hanger, Derby. Volume session, legged around doing all the easy stuff missing holds practising locks offs and rockovers. Ticked an orange easily (6B-C circuit) that was crimpy, tried a few pinks and then loads of easy stuff again. 3hrs.
Friday was the last session of just trying really hard moves - it's been a couple of months now, including the two weeks of tendonitis and the fingers feel like they need a rest from the brutality. Feel stronger than I ever have in general, lockoffs and finger strength are up but endurance is down. Pullups too.
WCJ was amazing - what a venue. Psyched to get stronger to be able to climb there. Never ticked anything harder than 6b, not a redpointer at all but warmed up on Incapacity and started the process. Had to work out a whole load of different beta for me due to the wrist, including a mono gaston to nail the rockover but got it sorted to the third bolt, which is way better than I expected. The crux will take me forever but the hold over the big roof is doable with the wrist, which leaves the crappy crimp match after the third bolt as maybe the crux for me. I really enjoyed myself to be honest, no stopper move for the wrist and I reckon I'm strong enough if I get my footwork right one day. Will head back, weather dependent when I get back from Swizzy but it's a project for after Spain if I'm honest.
Won't report in for a couple of weeks now, as down Portland for three days next weekend and then straight to Swizzy to hopefully bag Salbit South Ridge.
Happy climbing everyone.
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks for doing the stats. No major plans, but I've got a free weekend on the 8/9th and a few days off. Got a few other days off to take as well. Hopefully get some more VSes done.
Solo Vertigo? /me shivers... It's a bit polished for that surely?
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 11st 12lbs (tick!)
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 2lbs (3lbs gain, could be worse I guess)
M - Doing nothing much in Cornwall
T - 12 mile walk
W - 3 mile walk
T - Driving back from Cornwall & 5k run
F - S - DIY
No climbing sadly. Couldn't really be bothered to try and eke out some bouldering in Cornwall. Went on a few nice walks tho. Then on Thursday, went for a run. Decided to stop on the sit-up bars at the park and rattle through a few push-ups. This has sprained the upper abs (below the diaphram) so I can't do any core work at the moment and just below my ribs is rather sore. Spent the rest of my holiday doing DIY, which means working on the final cabinet in the kitchen. Hope to get outside back onto the redpoint project next week.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks for doing the stats. No major plans, but I've got a free weekend on the 8/9th and a few days off. Got a few other days off to take as well. Hopefully get some more VSes done.
Solo Vertigo? /me shivers... It's a bit polished for that surely?
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 11st 12lbs (tick!)
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st
Weight - 12st 2lbs (3lbs gain, could be worse I guess)
M - Doing nothing much in Cornwall
T - 12 mile walk
W - 3 mile walk
T - Driving back from Cornwall & 5k run
F - S - DIY
No climbing sadly. Couldn't really be bothered to try and eke out some bouldering in Cornwall. Went on a few nice walks tho. Then on Thursday, went for a run. Decided to stop on the sit-up bars at the park and rattle through a few push-ups. This has sprained the upper abs (below the diaphram) so I can't do any core work at the moment and just below my ribs is rather sore. Spent the rest of my holiday doing DIY, which means working on the final cabinet in the kitchen. Hope to get outside back onto the redpoint project next week.
In reply to mrchewy:
Good luck and stay safe. That's on my wish list as well.
> Won't report in for a couple of weeks now, as down Portland for three days next weekend and then straight to Swizzy to hopefully bag Salbit South Ridge.
Good luck and stay safe. That's on my wish list as well.
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks for the stats Tintin, you've done a great job these past couple of weeks. I kind of agree, time to shelve the climbing-related goals until fit again... I'd kept them up here first on the basis that I thought the recovery for the wrist would be a week or so, then second as a reminder of what I want to get back to. Hopefully I can dig at least some of them out by the autumn.
The weight-loss thing is only mostly serious: while not a priority for me, I'm curious to see whether I can get to 65kg without negative effects. Plus, now the climbing load is low to non-existent, it seems like a good idea to cut intake. I can manage cardio and core with reduced calories, I think. I weighed in at 68.7kg this evening, and will attempt to get on the scales first thing in the morning and just before bed and keep track of 7-day moving averages (am, pm and combined).
Re: asymmetry, as I said last week it's pretty deeply ingrained. My abs could best be described as a 5-pack (3 on the left, 2 on the right) and have been like that as long as I remember (swimming club, early teens). Could take some fixing! Hopefully I'll have some time to discuss this with a physio soon. In the meantime, I'll put together some one-sided core workouts.
My wrist feels marginally worse than this time last week. I can't tell whether this was because I did some gentle climbing on it this week (no really, very gentle) or because of the DIY-club style over-exertion on non-training tasks, in this case helping my brother move house. I've acquired a copy of Dave MacLeod's book on injuries, and decided to see a physio. I have seen steady progress, but it's been slow and I think it's time for some professional guidance.
M - Rest; ice wrist; ordered Dave Mac's "Make or Break"
T - TCA. Took it easy, worked through the orange (font 4-6A) circuit avoiding any pain in wrist; core; ice wrist.
W - 11.7km run, 4:45/km pace; ice wrist.
T - Core (+ probably about 4km running as warm-up/warm-down/recovery between sets); ice wrist; Make or Break arrived
F - FC-style non-rest: helping my brother move house from Bristol to London. 4 flights of stairs on the way out; 1 on the way in.
S - Rabble! (check out joinrabble.com - founded by a friend from uni swimming). High-intensity cardio workout disguised as games in the park in London (coming to Manchester soon). Went climbing at White Spider in the afternoon. Good centre, wish I could have done more there. Only did 6 routes, 6a-6b, concentrating on technique.
S - Rest. Weighed in at 68.7kg.
Initial attempt at interim goals - subject to change...
≥ 1 offset pull-ups session. Doing these on rings seems to be fine with the wrist.
Devise suitably hard offset core session. ≥ 2 per week.
Sub 19 minute 5k again. I've done this before so I should be able to do it again by the end of the summer.
Get on the squash ladder at work. (Ok, it's not really an organised ladder, but a few people play and I used to enjoy it.) High-intensity stuff should be good to reduce risk of injury from monotonous road running.
> Nick Russell –While in rehab mode, it sounds like time to adjust the STGs to nail the running and weight loss, and get a plan together for asymmetry.
Thanks for the stats Tintin, you've done a great job these past couple of weeks. I kind of agree, time to shelve the climbing-related goals until fit again... I'd kept them up here first on the basis that I thought the recovery for the wrist would be a week or so, then second as a reminder of what I want to get back to. Hopefully I can dig at least some of them out by the autumn.
The weight-loss thing is only mostly serious: while not a priority for me, I'm curious to see whether I can get to 65kg without negative effects. Plus, now the climbing load is low to non-existent, it seems like a good idea to cut intake. I can manage cardio and core with reduced calories, I think. I weighed in at 68.7kg this evening, and will attempt to get on the scales first thing in the morning and just before bed and keep track of 7-day moving averages (am, pm and combined).
Re: asymmetry, as I said last week it's pretty deeply ingrained. My abs could best be described as a 5-pack (3 on the left, 2 on the right) and have been like that as long as I remember (swimming club, early teens). Could take some fixing! Hopefully I'll have some time to discuss this with a physio soon. In the meantime, I'll put together some one-sided core workouts.
My wrist feels marginally worse than this time last week. I can't tell whether this was because I did some gentle climbing on it this week (no really, very gentle) or because of the DIY-club style over-exertion on non-training tasks, in this case helping my brother move house. I've acquired a copy of Dave MacLeod's book on injuries, and decided to see a physio. I have seen steady progress, but it's been slow and I think it's time for some professional guidance.
M - Rest; ice wrist; ordered Dave Mac's "Make or Break"
T - TCA. Took it easy, worked through the orange (font 4-6A) circuit avoiding any pain in wrist; core; ice wrist.
W - 11.7km run, 4:45/km pace; ice wrist.
T - Core (+ probably about 4km running as warm-up/warm-down/recovery between sets); ice wrist; Make or Break arrived
F - FC-style non-rest: helping my brother move house from Bristol to London. 4 flights of stairs on the way out; 1 on the way in.
S - Rabble! (check out joinrabble.com - founded by a friend from uni swimming). High-intensity cardio workout disguised as games in the park in London (coming to Manchester soon). Went climbing at White Spider in the afternoon. Good centre, wish I could have done more there. Only did 6 routes, 6a-6b, concentrating on technique.
S - Rest. Weighed in at 68.7kg.
Initial attempt at interim goals - subject to change...
In reply to Just Tintin: Thanks for your stint doing the stats Tintin!
In keeping with last week I'm going to try and continue to post my goals as a bit more motivation. If I've told all you guys I'm going to do something I'm much more likely to try and do it!
STG: Get my trad head back on. (TICK) Onsight an E5 if the weather plays ball.
MTG: Onsight Lord of the Flies and some other E6s this summer, head point an E7. Climb Salathe Wall on El Cap with Dad in September.
LTG: Project Get Strong Fingers when I return to uni. Plans are to have at least one fingerboard session each week, and to boulder at least three times a week. Be able to 1-4-7 the medium rungs. Boulder Font 7c in Northumberland.
BHAG: Mecca, 8b+.
Mon - MCC bouldering sesh. A return back to where I started for the first time in a year! Felt solid flashing up to and including V6, struggled on a few of the harder ones. Supposedly flashed a V8+ but it was more like V6.
Tue - Trad at High Tor. Warmed up on M1 (E2 5b), then Delta-G (E4 6a). Didn't feel quite comfortable making the crux even though I was next to a small but solid wire so I guess it will just take time. Finished doing That X Factor (E3 6a) in light rain which wasn't really E4 or 6a.
Wed - rest
Thurs - rest
Fri - Bouldering at Huddersfield Wall. It's rubbish. Very short problems so all nasty and awkward. Again, flashing around V6 and working a bit harder so it's good to feel like I haven't lost too much power doing all the sport climbing.
Sat - Trad at Chee Tor. Warmed up following Meditation then lead the first pitch and followed the second of Mortlock's Arete (E4 6a). Awesome route, I can recommend it to anyone climbing that level! Apparently its quite tough for E4 which makes me feel more confident for Pembroke E5s (tough Peak E4 = Pembroke E5). So far I'm not feeling like I'm going to fall off, I just worry about what would happen if I did. But it felt more comfortable than the E4 at High Tor so that's progress!
Sun - Core session inc lots of sit-ups, leg raises, V-sit thingys, and various planks. Then set a new PB on the 'Little Bridges Run' by finally getting it under the 30 minute mark!
Quite pleased with the week, I'll consider the STG ticked. Just need a bit more time before I start looking at the MTG of E6 onsights. Probably feel ready to get stuck into some E5s now though.
Cheers, Jake
In keeping with last week I'm going to try and continue to post my goals as a bit more motivation. If I've told all you guys I'm going to do something I'm much more likely to try and do it!
STG: Get my trad head back on. (TICK) Onsight an E5 if the weather plays ball.
MTG: Onsight Lord of the Flies and some other E6s this summer, head point an E7. Climb Salathe Wall on El Cap with Dad in September.
LTG: Project Get Strong Fingers when I return to uni. Plans are to have at least one fingerboard session each week, and to boulder at least three times a week. Be able to 1-4-7 the medium rungs. Boulder Font 7c in Northumberland.
BHAG: Mecca, 8b+.
Mon - MCC bouldering sesh. A return back to where I started for the first time in a year! Felt solid flashing up to and including V6, struggled on a few of the harder ones. Supposedly flashed a V8+ but it was more like V6.
Tue - Trad at High Tor. Warmed up on M1 (E2 5b), then Delta-G (E4 6a). Didn't feel quite comfortable making the crux even though I was next to a small but solid wire so I guess it will just take time. Finished doing That X Factor (E3 6a) in light rain which wasn't really E4 or 6a.
Wed - rest
Thurs - rest
Fri - Bouldering at Huddersfield Wall. It's rubbish. Very short problems so all nasty and awkward. Again, flashing around V6 and working a bit harder so it's good to feel like I haven't lost too much power doing all the sport climbing.
Sat - Trad at Chee Tor. Warmed up following Meditation then lead the first pitch and followed the second of Mortlock's Arete (E4 6a). Awesome route, I can recommend it to anyone climbing that level! Apparently its quite tough for E4 which makes me feel more confident for Pembroke E5s (tough Peak E4 = Pembroke E5). So far I'm not feeling like I'm going to fall off, I just worry about what would happen if I did. But it felt more comfortable than the E4 at High Tor so that's progress!
Sun - Core session inc lots of sit-ups, leg raises, V-sit thingys, and various planks. Then set a new PB on the 'Little Bridges Run' by finally getting it under the 30 minute mark!
Quite pleased with the week, I'll consider the STG ticked. Just need a bit more time before I start looking at the MTG of E6 onsights. Probably feel ready to get stuck into some E5s now though.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Nick Russell:
Enjoy the new Dave Mac. It's in my holiday reading pile.
Would be interested to hear what the physio says about asymmetry - I've never sorted out mine since quitting rowing and my TAs are definitely much better on the left. During that time I've half-arsedly played with stacking core exercises right but haven't managed to properly equalise. Must try harder!
Enjoy the new Dave Mac. It's in my holiday reading pile.
Would be interested to hear what the physio says about asymmetry - I've never sorted out mine since quitting rowing and my TAs are definitely much better on the left. During that time I've half-arsedly played with stacking core exercises right but haven't managed to properly equalise. Must try harder!
In reply to Just Tintin:
Both finger and shoulder have made progress this week; but a couple of nights drinking seem to have done for me on the lean stakes!
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor – crimpy & front on board style too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goals.
- Spanish super routes – Feb 2016 – La Perla, (8b+), La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
LTG (2015):
>8b+ RP options:
- Cry Freedom & Unjustified, Malham.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG.
- need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (May/June/July): - refresh next week
- Increase An-cap
- Get stronger without aggravating injuries
- Put time into the 4 projects I’ve bolted. #1 & #2 Orme roof L&R. #3 B&IC headwall; f8a+? #4 “Charon”
- 8a+/b’s
- if finger plays ball: Well Done finish, Straight jacket, Waddage & Weedkiller/Chimes.
- if shoulder plays ball, but finger still tweaky: Mecca Traverse, Mandela (TICK) & Guns in the sky
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
Repeat of last couple of weeks
- Icing and rehab every day for finger and shoulder
- Controlled fingerboarding
- Do some core, antag and bicep curls
- Maintain sub 76kg weight
- Do #3, try #4
Last week:
M - 1.5 hours of core, antags, bicep curls (3 sets, 4x20kg each arm – easier with the right though) & wide-pulls (4 sets 8 reps). Iced finger; bad nights sleep.
T - Iced finger in car on way to work. Fingerboard an-cap 10:3 session @ 65% (+20kg). 125, 100, 95, 86, 78, 77, 76s. Then 7:3 aero-cap @ 60% (+13kg) 1on/1off. 4x balls, 3x sloper, 3x 20mm edge to add some variation. Girlie 1-arm press-ups – 5 each side x2 – quite hard, but much improved on last attempt 3 months ago. 3x 20 wide press-ups.
W - Planned rest – Iced finger in car on way to work.
T - AM – Fingerboard (1, +35, 35, 35. +13kg on repeaters – all 4 finger drag). PM – re-warm-up, then dogged about on crux of project #3 and got a viable, but hard sequence as high as the TR/shunt combo would let me. Think I’m going to be skipping clips on this one! Then 4x10min continuity on GC, f7b/+. Late dinner = poor sleep.
F - Felt beasted – forearms in particular – however, in light of recent beta tips regarding how much core strength you need for my proposed projects in RRG, there’s no rest for the wicked. 1 hour core, antags, widepulls and bicep curls (2 sets, 4x20kg, 1set 12x11kg). Drive to Dorset.
S - Wallsend South – one of thebest days out this year. Flash pump on te 6b+ warm-up, 7a+ fluffed OS with scary inverted clip, 7b )S, 7a+ simple RP, 7b OS – elbows out and crimping like mad on greasy rock at the start – no finger pain Too much champagne.
S - Drive to Sussex and meet new parents new moglets. Core. 3min plank is boring.
Both finger and shoulder have made progress this week; but a couple of nights drinking seem to have done for me on the lean stakes!
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor – crimpy & front on board style too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goals.
- Spanish super routes – Feb 2016 – La Perla, (8b+), La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
LTG (2015):
>8b+ RP options:
- Cry Freedom & Unjustified, Malham.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG.
- need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (May/June/July): - refresh next week
- Increase An-cap
- Get stronger without aggravating injuries
- Put time into the 4 projects I’ve bolted. #1 & #2 Orme roof L&R. #3 B&IC headwall; f8a+? #4 “Charon”
- 8a+/b’s
- if finger plays ball: Well Done finish, Straight jacket, Waddage & Weedkiller/Chimes.
- if shoulder plays ball, but finger still tweaky: Mecca Traverse, Mandela (TICK) & Guns in the sky
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
Repeat of last couple of weeks
- Icing and rehab every day for finger and shoulder
- Controlled fingerboarding
- Do some core, antag and bicep curls
- Maintain sub 76kg weight
- Do #3, try #4
Last week:
M - 1.5 hours of core, antags, bicep curls (3 sets, 4x20kg each arm – easier with the right though) & wide-pulls (4 sets 8 reps). Iced finger; bad nights sleep.
T - Iced finger in car on way to work. Fingerboard an-cap 10:3 session @ 65% (+20kg). 125, 100, 95, 86, 78, 77, 76s. Then 7:3 aero-cap @ 60% (+13kg) 1on/1off. 4x balls, 3x sloper, 3x 20mm edge to add some variation. Girlie 1-arm press-ups – 5 each side x2 – quite hard, but much improved on last attempt 3 months ago. 3x 20 wide press-ups.
W - Planned rest – Iced finger in car on way to work.
T - AM – Fingerboard (1, +35, 35, 35. +13kg on repeaters – all 4 finger drag). PM – re-warm-up, then dogged about on crux of project #3 and got a viable, but hard sequence as high as the TR/shunt combo would let me. Think I’m going to be skipping clips on this one! Then 4x10min continuity on GC, f7b/+. Late dinner = poor sleep.
F - Felt beasted – forearms in particular – however, in light of recent beta tips regarding how much core strength you need for my proposed projects in RRG, there’s no rest for the wicked. 1 hour core, antags, widepulls and bicep curls (2 sets, 4x20kg, 1set 12x11kg). Drive to Dorset.
S - Wallsend South – one of thebest days out this year. Flash pump on te 6b+ warm-up, 7a+ fluffed OS with scary inverted clip, 7b )S, 7a+ simple RP, 7b OS – elbows out and crimping like mad on greasy rock at the start – no finger pain Too much champagne.
S - Drive to Sussex and meet new parents new moglets. Core. 3min plank is boring.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Neither as it turns out. Very frustrating week
M: Rest
T: Stockport wall, bitter sweet as I managed to keep pace with the Peugot but only because he was uncharacteristically awful. He blamed the heat, I was just my normal self.
W: Stockport again! This time bouldering and it really was too hot, slipped off everything but even so I think the grades have got a bit harder since last time I bouldered there? Certainly the 6b+ circuit was the biggest sandbag I've come across there
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Knew I'd be climbing tomorrow so happy with a late start to Goredale just to check out the moves on CRLH but got to the crag and it was rammed. Flashed the warm up then bolt to bolted Revival (very glad there were clips on), bolt to bolted Dogpoint (another sandbag at that grade?) then top roped it to finish.
S: Kendal Wall as biblical rain was forecast (apparently it wasn't too bad) got pumped, did a few routes on the big wall but nothing above 7a and failed to do the moves on a 6c (one of the biggest sandb.....well you get the picture!).
Weight was doing ok until blow out last night, first booze and cheesecake for months. Injuries ok but left shoulder and elbow definitely in the red...
> Was it Dead Calm or Cave Route Left in the end?
Neither as it turns out. Very frustrating week
M: Rest
T: Stockport wall, bitter sweet as I managed to keep pace with the Peugot but only because he was uncharacteristically awful. He blamed the heat, I was just my normal self.
W: Stockport again! This time bouldering and it really was too hot, slipped off everything but even so I think the grades have got a bit harder since last time I bouldered there? Certainly the 6b+ circuit was the biggest sandbag I've come across there
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Knew I'd be climbing tomorrow so happy with a late start to Goredale just to check out the moves on CRLH but got to the crag and it was rammed. Flashed the warm up then bolt to bolted Revival (very glad there were clips on), bolt to bolted Dogpoint (another sandbag at that grade?) then top roped it to finish.
S: Kendal Wall as biblical rain was forecast (apparently it wasn't too bad) got pumped, did a few routes on the big wall but nothing above 7a and failed to do the moves on a 6c (one of the biggest sandb.....well you get the picture!).
Weight was doing ok until blow out last night, first booze and cheesecake for months. Injuries ok but left shoulder and elbow definitely in the red...
In reply to AJM:
Just finished off last week. Good session - managed a pretty high intensity 1-on-2-off session, half decent set of weighted offsets, and also did some weighted wide grip pullups as well. Definitely better than doing something crap yesterday.
> I'm going to leave 2 sessions to roll into next week though - we had a party this weekend and I was up til 4am - despite my best efforts I only managed some conditioning work at the wall before wretchedness overcame me. I figure it's best to do better quality sessions tomorrow rather than crap ones today.
Just finished off last week. Good session - managed a pretty high intensity 1-on-2-off session, half decent set of weighted offsets, and also did some weighted wide grip pullups as well. Definitely better than doing something crap yesterday.
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks Tintin for the second stand in! Yeah, it's coming getting more confidence on the ropes but there's no way I'll do the falls till I've chilled the hell out just hanging - that said it's going the right way.
It was another poor week, or at least it felt that way! The sunday before I did everything in one day as I knew the summer holidays were coming and hadn't done much in teh first half due to my knee being sore. The result was a very sore knee on Monday and a realisation I might be better to slack off. I decided to dump running for the week, which was weird as I've run every week for months now.
Mon - Nowt
Tues - Suspension trainer 30 mins
Weds - videoing boulder session (videoing each other) I got up the climbs on fewer attempts so did more videoing burt was really worthwhile to see myself climb and good fun.
Thurs - Suspension training 30 mins. Lead climbing. Did nowt on the overhang, partly 'cos it was busy and partly 'cos there were lots of new climbs. Good night though, lots of routes.
Fri - school holidays so went skating for 1 hr with Munchkin. Also went bouldering with Munchkin in the eve, tried the comp problems but I was shocking, the one I really wanted to flash I couldn't even get my foot where it needed to be never mind stand on the sore knee. I think I'm going to stick with my current score because it felt soul destroying not fun. My poor girl had a rough night too, after getting 57 (score!) last month she only managed 1 climb! Bless her, we consoled each other and went hunting for our mojos!
Sat - bouldering at NCC, more pratting about than hard work, mainly trying one problem for me (number 20) could get all but the last move (sneak preview I went back and got it tonight!!). Good laugh but not hard exercise.
Sun - 30 mins suspension training in the rain and 1.5 hrs ice skating.
Thanks Tintin for the second stand in! Yeah, it's coming getting more confidence on the ropes but there's no way I'll do the falls till I've chilled the hell out just hanging - that said it's going the right way.
It was another poor week, or at least it felt that way! The sunday before I did everything in one day as I knew the summer holidays were coming and hadn't done much in teh first half due to my knee being sore. The result was a very sore knee on Monday and a realisation I might be better to slack off. I decided to dump running for the week, which was weird as I've run every week for months now.
Mon - Nowt
Tues - Suspension trainer 30 mins
Weds - videoing boulder session (videoing each other) I got up the climbs on fewer attempts so did more videoing burt was really worthwhile to see myself climb and good fun.
Thurs - Suspension training 30 mins. Lead climbing. Did nowt on the overhang, partly 'cos it was busy and partly 'cos there were lots of new climbs. Good night though, lots of routes.
Fri - school holidays so went skating for 1 hr with Munchkin. Also went bouldering with Munchkin in the eve, tried the comp problems but I was shocking, the one I really wanted to flash I couldn't even get my foot where it needed to be never mind stand on the sore knee. I think I'm going to stick with my current score because it felt soul destroying not fun. My poor girl had a rough night too, after getting 57 (score!) last month she only managed 1 climb! Bless her, we consoled each other and went hunting for our mojos!
Sat - bouldering at NCC, more pratting about than hard work, mainly trying one problem for me (number 20) could get all but the last move (sneak preview I went back and got it tonight!!). Good laugh but not hard exercise.
Sun - 30 mins suspension training in the rain and 1.5 hrs ice skating.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Core. 3min plank is boring.
I know a lad who can manage 40 minutes... which seems insane to me. The best I managed in 2012 when I was making an effort was 8min 30sec, so you've a long way to go before you can claim boredom Ally!
Core. 3min plank is boring.
I know a lad who can manage 40 minutes... which seems insane to me. The best I managed in 2012 when I was making an effort was 8min 30sec, so you've a long way to go before you can claim boredom Ally!
In reply to Just Tintin:
From what I've read so far (about 1/3 through) I can definitely recommend it. I'd go so far as to suggest that everyone on here (especially those complaining about injuries) should get a copy!
> Enjoy the new Dave Mac. It's in my holiday reading pile.
From what I've read so far (about 1/3 through) I can definitely recommend it. I'd go so far as to suggest that everyone on here (especially those complaining about injuries) should get a copy!
In reply to Tyler:
The Peugeot?
The grades probably have gone up a bit. Partly in response to lots of feedback about how soft they were, partly because of the comp and partly because James Garden has got so strong he's forgotten to adjust his grades to mortal levels. They should hopefully be consistent though.
If you think the 6b+ is hard try the spotty '7a'.
The Peugeot?
The grades probably have gone up a bit. Partly in response to lots of feedback about how soft they were, partly because of the comp and partly because James Garden has got so strong he's forgotten to adjust his grades to mortal levels. They should hopefully be consistent though.
If you think the 6b+ is hard try the spotty '7a'.
In reply to mrchewy:
3 min plank IS boring, but also, when would you need to hold your core rigid for 3 minutes on a route? Kind of like the advice not to lock off for over 10 seconds as you don't really ever need to. (not to mention the potential injury factor, less of a problem with a long plank)
I'd be looking for harder plank variations that destroy you faster, I've been doing side plank on an exercise ball, 30 seconds feels like 3 minutes!
3 min plank IS boring, but also, when would you need to hold your core rigid for 3 minutes on a route? Kind of like the advice not to lock off for over 10 seconds as you don't really ever need to. (not to mention the potential injury factor, less of a problem with a long plank)
I'd be looking for harder plank variations that destroy you faster, I've been doing side plank on an exercise ball, 30 seconds feels like 3 minutes!
1
In reply to biscuit:
I'm sure there are mortals who can adjust the grades, as you know its a bug bear of mine that the grades seem to be set on tablets of stone! Hard to tell if they are consistent as the comp problems weren't graded, possibly are now?
In fairness it didn't seem as out as the 6b+, I did eventually manage the 6b+ when someone told me to go clockwise
> The Peugeot?
Ant, underpowered but just keeps going and going> The grades probably have gone up a bit. Partly in response to lots of feedback about how soft they were, partly because of the comp and partly because James Garden has got so strong he's forgotten to adjust his grades to mortal levels. They should hopefully be consistent though.
I'm sure there are mortals who can adjust the grades, as you know its a bug bear of mine that the grades seem to be set on tablets of stone! Hard to tell if they are consistent as the comp problems weren't graded, possibly are now?
> If you think the 6b+ is hard try the spotty 7a
In fairness it didn't seem as out as the 6b+, I did eventually manage the 6b+ when someone told me to go clockwise
In reply to Tyler:
In fairness it hasn't been the easiest set to manage due to gap filling inbetween the comp problems. All change on Thursday and back to coloured circuits.
In fairness it hasn't been the easiest set to manage due to gap filling inbetween the comp problems. All change on Thursday and back to coloured circuits.
In reply to mrchewy:
Target route in RRG is an epic 100ft 40degree roof. I suspect i'll be on it for >30min, so being able to keep core tension for a long time is going to be essential.
3min 40s last night was starting to feel like an effort, with my shoulders feeling it most rather than my core. For an intermediate goals, i'll aim for a 4, 6, 8 & 10min planks over the next 4 weeks.
I'll also add in some side plank other harder variations to up the strength instead of just stamina (and move the strain away from my shoulders).
> I know a lad who can manage 40 minutes... which seems insane to me. The best I managed in 2012 when I was making an effort was 8min 30sec, so you've a long way to go before you can claim boredom Ally!
Target route in RRG is an epic 100ft 40degree roof. I suspect i'll be on it for >30min, so being able to keep core tension for a long time is going to be essential.
3min 40s last night was starting to feel like an effort, with my shoulders feeling it most rather than my core. For an intermediate goals, i'll aim for a 4, 6, 8 & 10min planks over the next 4 weeks.
I'll also add in some side plank other harder variations to up the strength instead of just stamina (and move the strain away from my shoulders).
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
Been feeling a bit flaky for the end of last week and still as far as today, but there¡¦s a bug going round at work and I gave blood on Thursday and just scraped through the iron test, so that¡¦s probably it. Shouldn¡¦t have done so much, but I will have enforced rest on a non-climbing holiday (Thurs-Tues in France) at the end of this week so wanted to get something in.
M- AM Boulder Brookes PM antagonists
T ¡V rest
W ¡V rest
T ¡V AM Boulder Brookes. Trying to make sense of the 5.10 hiangles I won in a comp. PM Gave blood.
F ¡V Boulder Climbing Unit. Feeling sick but knocked out most of the pink circuit (V2-4).
S ¡V Trad Dovedale. Warmed up on the hardest HVS of my life and then still feeling sick and lightheaded went home to drink tea¡K
S ¡V Boulder Wirksworth. Volume to V4. Still lightheaded.
Been feeling a bit flaky for the end of last week and still as far as today, but there¡¦s a bug going round at work and I gave blood on Thursday and just scraped through the iron test, so that¡¦s probably it. Shouldn¡¦t have done so much, but I will have enforced rest on a non-climbing holiday (Thurs-Tues in France) at the end of this week so wanted to get something in.
M- AM Boulder Brookes PM antagonists
T ¡V rest
W ¡V rest
T ¡V AM Boulder Brookes. Trying to make sense of the 5.10 hiangles I won in a comp. PM Gave blood.
F ¡V Boulder Climbing Unit. Feeling sick but knocked out most of the pink circuit (V2-4).
S ¡V Trad Dovedale. Warmed up on the hardest HVS of my life and then still feeling sick and lightheaded went home to drink tea¡K
S ¡V Boulder Wirksworth. Volume to V4. Still lightheaded.
In reply to Dandan:
Ally seems to have answered that one. The 'lock off for no more than 10 seconds' is answered by my fumbling trad placements!
Ally seems to have answered that one. The 'lock off for no more than 10 seconds' is answered by my fumbling trad placements!
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
I'm pretty strong in the shoulders for plank and similar yoga poses, it was the breathing in that did for me. My whole core would shake and tremble. I really need to get back to all the peripheral training. Cheers for the inspiration.
I'm pretty strong in the shoulders for plank and similar yoga poses, it was the breathing in that did for me. My whole core would shake and tremble. I really need to get back to all the peripheral training. Cheers for the inspiration.
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
I just need to vent a little so please bear with me:
2 weeks ago I booked an appointment with an orthopaedic specialist to have an ultrasound scan and possible steroid injections in my elbows.
Yesterday, I receive a letter saying the booking system I used has been replaced with a different service, my appointment has been cancelled and I have to sit tight an wait for them to re-arrange my appointment. No options for further action, no contact details, nothing.
What makes it worse, is that apparently the booking service was replaced on the 1st of June, yet I was able to book an appointment through it on the 15th of JULY. The system was fully live, with up to date appointment slots and at no point did it indicate that the whole thing had been invalid for 45 DAYS and I was basically typing my details into the modern equivalent of a Big Brother memory hole.
What kind of useless shower of incompetent idiots can't switch off a flipping piece of software, and then can't notify people that their booking is useless for 2 WEEKS?! My doctor had no idea the system had been replaced either, it's utterly ridiculous!
Despite my upbeat post earlier this week, my elbows aren't getting any better, I just had two nice relaxing days with no aggravating activities and this morning both elbows are as bad as ever. I have literally no clue what helps and what hinders, I don't dare climb or do anything useful, yet I don't dare do absolutely nothing either as that seems to be just as bad! I don't know which of the exercises I am doing is helping, which are useless and which are causing me more trouble, feedback is random and changeable, aggravating activities seem to vary at will, what the hell am I supposed to do?!
I was looking forward to this scan as a real chance to understand what the problem is so I can finally have a better idea of how to fix it, and now that's been denied, who knows how long it will take to re-book, it could be months. I will almost certainly have to cancel my Kaly holiday in September now, so that's £800+ down the drain, it looks like my only option for speedy results is to look into a private scan which I probably won't even be able to afford.
Someone at the Southern Health NHS Foundation Trust will be on the receiving end of my frustration this morning, I'll start with Nicola Aspinall who 'sincerely' signed my letter that I received yesterday, see how sincere she is about rectifying things...
Rant over, thanks for your time.
I just need to vent a little so please bear with me:
2 weeks ago I booked an appointment with an orthopaedic specialist to have an ultrasound scan and possible steroid injections in my elbows.
Yesterday, I receive a letter saying the booking system I used has been replaced with a different service, my appointment has been cancelled and I have to sit tight an wait for them to re-arrange my appointment. No options for further action, no contact details, nothing.
What makes it worse, is that apparently the booking service was replaced on the 1st of June, yet I was able to book an appointment through it on the 15th of JULY. The system was fully live, with up to date appointment slots and at no point did it indicate that the whole thing had been invalid for 45 DAYS and I was basically typing my details into the modern equivalent of a Big Brother memory hole.
What kind of useless shower of incompetent idiots can't switch off a flipping piece of software, and then can't notify people that their booking is useless for 2 WEEKS?! My doctor had no idea the system had been replaced either, it's utterly ridiculous!
Despite my upbeat post earlier this week, my elbows aren't getting any better, I just had two nice relaxing days with no aggravating activities and this morning both elbows are as bad as ever. I have literally no clue what helps and what hinders, I don't dare climb or do anything useful, yet I don't dare do absolutely nothing either as that seems to be just as bad! I don't know which of the exercises I am doing is helping, which are useless and which are causing me more trouble, feedback is random and changeable, aggravating activities seem to vary at will, what the hell am I supposed to do?!
I was looking forward to this scan as a real chance to understand what the problem is so I can finally have a better idea of how to fix it, and now that's been denied, who knows how long it will take to re-book, it could be months. I will almost certainly have to cancel my Kaly holiday in September now, so that's £800+ down the drain, it looks like my only option for speedy results is to look into a private scan which I probably won't even be able to afford.
Someone at the Southern Health NHS Foundation Trust will be on the receiving end of my frustration this morning, I'll start with Nicola Aspinall who 'sincerely' signed my letter that I received yesterday, see how sincere she is about rectifying things...
Rant over, thanks for your time.
In reply to Dandan:
I'm a late-comer to your travails so might be speaking out of turn, but 2 days is absolutely nothing in the context of elbow aggravations. If I want to be relatively free of elbow badness, I generally have to limit my climbing to weekends only. For prolonged periods, any midweek sessions (especially if I have been doing lots of computer work) and I can feel a vague soreness permeating my elbows. A near abatement of the symptoms generally takes months. Do you ever just give it a rest for, say, five days at a time - a couple of days of climbing a week for a few months, taking care to take it easy if there are any flare-ups.
> Despite my upbeat post earlier this week, my elbows aren't getting any better, I just had two nice relaxing days with no aggravating activities and this morning both elbows are as bad as ever. I have literally no clue what helps and what hinders, I don't dare climb or do anything useful, yet I don't dare do absolutely nothing either as that seems to be just as bad!
I'm a late-comer to your travails so might be speaking out of turn, but 2 days is absolutely nothing in the context of elbow aggravations. If I want to be relatively free of elbow badness, I generally have to limit my climbing to weekends only. For prolonged periods, any midweek sessions (especially if I have been doing lots of computer work) and I can feel a vague soreness permeating my elbows. A near abatement of the symptoms generally takes months. Do you ever just give it a rest for, say, five days at a time - a couple of days of climbing a week for a few months, taking care to take it easy if there are any flare-ups.
Post edited at 08:54
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
I've not been climbing since May and have been on complete rest for nearly a month now...
I've not been climbing since May and have been on complete rest for nearly a month now...
In reply to Dandan:
Whereabouts are you based? I take it as it's the "Southern Health NHS Foundation Trust", you're not in the Manchester area. After months of being bounced around by the NHS I decided to put my hands in my pocket and see a specialist directly, Zaf Naqui at Spire Manchester.
I'd highly recommend him and his team ( They have a diagnostic specialist there as well, Dr Bhatti, who did a presentation at the BMC Climbing Injury Symposium ). It might be worth travelling for. They'll usually be happy to have a chat on the phone about your injury free of charge.
http://www.zafnaqui.com/
If you're not insured this kind of thing isn't cheap, but the way I look at it, climbing gear and trips aren't cheap either, and this is your body you're talking about.
Good Luck,
Andrew.
Whereabouts are you based? I take it as it's the "Southern Health NHS Foundation Trust", you're not in the Manchester area. After months of being bounced around by the NHS I decided to put my hands in my pocket and see a specialist directly, Zaf Naqui at Spire Manchester.
I'd highly recommend him and his team ( They have a diagnostic specialist there as well, Dr Bhatti, who did a presentation at the BMC Climbing Injury Symposium ). It might be worth travelling for. They'll usually be happy to have a chat on the phone about your injury free of charge.
http://www.zafnaqui.com/
If you're not insured this kind of thing isn't cheap, but the way I look at it, climbing gear and trips aren't cheap either, and this is your body you're talking about.
Good Luck,
Andrew.
In reply to Just Tintin:
A bit of a break this week, though did do a couple of strength sessions and some climbing.
Mon - Barbell complex. 8 sets 2x deadlift, 2x hang clean, 1x strict press, 2x push press, 3x push jerk (40kg).
50/40/30/20/10 Kettlebell swings (16kg)/Double Unders/Situps
Tue - Climbing at Stanage North. Climbed Jim Crow (E1 5b), which I can safely say satisfies my "Hard HVS" Criteria.
Wed - Max Strength. Hill Sprints - 2x7@ 8s. 4 sets of 2x Chin Up +10kg, 4x Ring Dip (Bodyweight), 4x Axe Pull (Bodyweight). Possibly a bit early in the season to be doing ice axe training, but it was fun.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Climbing at Tremadog.
Sun - Climbing at AW Sheffield. Managed to get a 6b+ on sight, which is the top of my first pyramid.
STG
* Managed a Hard HVS, now for a soft E1 to complete my first Trad pyramid.
* Finished my first indoor routes pyramid with a 6b+ at AW Sheffield.
* Still failing to get the trail mileage up - do at least 40km next week.
A bit of a break this week, though did do a couple of strength sessions and some climbing.
Mon - Barbell complex. 8 sets 2x deadlift, 2x hang clean, 1x strict press, 2x push press, 3x push jerk (40kg).
50/40/30/20/10 Kettlebell swings (16kg)/Double Unders/Situps
Tue - Climbing at Stanage North. Climbed Jim Crow (E1 5b), which I can safely say satisfies my "Hard HVS" Criteria.
Wed - Max Strength. Hill Sprints - 2x7@ 8s. 4 sets of 2x Chin Up +10kg, 4x Ring Dip (Bodyweight), 4x Axe Pull (Bodyweight). Possibly a bit early in the season to be doing ice axe training, but it was fun.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Climbing at Tremadog.
Sun - Climbing at AW Sheffield. Managed to get a 6b+ on sight, which is the top of my first pyramid.
STG
* Managed a Hard HVS, now for a soft E1 to complete my first Trad pyramid.
* Finished my first indoor routes pyramid with a 6b+ at AW Sheffield.
* Still failing to get the trail mileage up - do at least 40km next week.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Well I've just dipped into my pocket to the tune of £175 to get a consultation (down south) next week, we will have to see how it goes.
It's true I thought nothing of spending £650 to get my clutch fixed and yet I'm baulking at a few hundred pounds to fix my actual body, a little perspective needed I think.
Well I've just dipped into my pocket to the tune of £175 to get a consultation (down south) next week, we will have to see how it goes.
It's true I thought nothing of spending £650 to get my clutch fixed and yet I'm baulking at a few hundred pounds to fix my actual body, a little perspective needed I think.
5
In reply to planetmarshall:
It's never too early! I've started doing pull ups on my axes this week. Partly because the wrist gets on better with the freedom to rotate (isn't that also lighter on the elbows?) and partly because I want to have a good winter season.
> Possibly a bit early in the season to be doing ice axe training, but it was fun.
It's never too early! I've started doing pull ups on my axes this week. Partly because the wrist gets on better with the freedom to rotate (isn't that also lighter on the elbows?) and partly because I want to have a good winter season.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Aloha Tintin, yep I was psyched to get the goal ticked! Currently on a non-climbing holiday at the moment (feels weird), so feel like 15 ticks has earnt me the right to relax.
CV fitness feels pretty good. I was worried that it would have suffered as I've not been getting out running but I went for a quick uphill session on Monday and felt really comfortable. Gonna go for a few runs while I'm away just to keep it ticking over.
Another mega chilled out week, but I'm on a kind of holiday (my whole life is one big holiday at the moment, sadly it can't last much longer) so I'm treating it as a rest period before I go back to Cham and do some more alpine suffering.
M, T, W, T, F, S, S: Rest
Haha wow that's an embarrassing week.
No goals last week. tick...? haha
STG (this week): 3 uphill runs, 2 bodyweight workouts
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks, 10xTD. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. Le Ginat, N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
Aloha Tintin, yep I was psyched to get the goal ticked! Currently on a non-climbing holiday at the moment (feels weird), so feel like 15 ticks has earnt me the right to relax.
CV fitness feels pretty good. I was worried that it would have suffered as I've not been getting out running but I went for a quick uphill session on Monday and felt really comfortable. Gonna go for a few runs while I'm away just to keep it ticking over.
Another mega chilled out week, but I'm on a kind of holiday (my whole life is one big holiday at the moment, sadly it can't last much longer) so I'm treating it as a rest period before I go back to Cham and do some more alpine suffering.
M, T, W, T, F, S, S: Rest
Haha wow that's an embarrassing week.
No goals last week. tick...? haha
STG (this week): 3 uphill runs, 2 bodyweight workouts
New MTG (by end of September): Get serious about training again. 35 alpine ticks, 10xTD. Tick Meije Grand Pic, directe face sud (TD), Cassin (TD) and Peutérey Integral (ED1 4). Get something done in the Dolomites (Don Quixote (VI+)? Cassin (VII-) on the Cima Piccolissima? Maybe if you're going well, Comici-Dimai (VII+)?) Stop being lazy and go for some runs, focus on uphills and endurance. 3x half-marathon distance over hilly terrain. Get back to the strength level you were at just before leaving for Scotland in February. Eat healthy food and stay under 70kg.
LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. Le Ginat, N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.
Post edited at 13:10
In reply to Nick Russell:
Makes sense. I hook the axes through a crab suspended on a sling from the pullup bar, rather than hooking them over the bar itself.
> ...Partly because the wrist gets on better with the freedom to rotate (isn't that also lighter on the elbows?)...
Makes sense. I hook the axes through a crab suspended on a sling from the pullup bar, rather than hooking them over the bar itself.
In reply to Dandan:
I once paid £200 for a consultation on my shoulder (the spire or something in Bristol). The guy spent 15 mins prodding it and then said it'll be reet with some ibuprofen and sent me on my way.
Circa. 4 years later and it isn't alright, still trying to get it sorted through the NHS, which seems to be a bit better up here (Sheffield) than in Bristol. Worth noting that if the specialist is any good, my one said that he saw NHS patients several days a week and that my doctor could refer me, so worth asking them that.
> Well I've just dipped into my pocket to the tune of £175 to get a consultation (down south)
I once paid £200 for a consultation on my shoulder (the spire or something in Bristol). The guy spent 15 mins prodding it and then said it'll be reet with some ibuprofen and sent me on my way.
Circa. 4 years later and it isn't alright, still trying to get it sorted through the NHS, which seems to be a bit better up here (Sheffield) than in Bristol. Worth noting that if the specialist is any good, my one said that he saw NHS patients several days a week and that my doctor could refer me, so worth asking them that.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Similar. Mine are hooked through slings suspended from my fingerboard setup (see my gallery). Not quite sure if it would be more ice/mixed-specific to hook them on a small edge or something but what I'm doing at the moment suits my needs.
Similar. Mine are hooked through slings suspended from my fingerboard setup (see my gallery). Not quite sure if it would be more ice/mixed-specific to hook them on a small edge or something but what I'm doing at the moment suits my needs.
In reply to cha1n:
Indeed, however the problem is the time that this takes. It was 6 weeks before I was able to see a consultant on the NHS, another 4-5 weeks to get a scan, 3 weeks since that and I haven't yet had feedback.
Privately, I phoned Mr Naqui's secretary on Friday, had a consultation on Monday and an ultrasound scan the same day.
> Worth noting that if the specialist is any good, my one said that he saw NHS patients several days a week and that my doctor could refer me, so worth asking them that.
Indeed, however the problem is the time that this takes. It was 6 weeks before I was able to see a consultant on the NHS, another 4-5 weeks to get a scan, 3 weeks since that and I haven't yet had feedback.
Privately, I phoned Mr Naqui's secretary on Friday, had a consultation on Monday and an ultrasound scan the same day.
In reply to cha1n:
What planetmarshall said, I can get all of the treatment I need on the NHS with the same specialist, just over a vastly longer time frame, a process which I was already involved in until they decided to cancel my appointment next week.
If I pay through the nose I can probably get the steroid injections I think I need by the end of next week, if I wait for the NHS I probably won't see a needle before Christmas. Realistically, I can do enough overtime between now and Christmas to pay for the extra cost of the private treatment, I just need to man up and pay it.
What planetmarshall said, I can get all of the treatment I need on the NHS with the same specialist, just over a vastly longer time frame, a process which I was already involved in until they decided to cancel my appointment next week.
If I pay through the nose I can probably get the steroid injections I think I need by the end of next week, if I wait for the NHS I probably won't see a needle before Christmas. Realistically, I can do enough overtime between now and Christmas to pay for the extra cost of the private treatment, I just need to man up and pay it.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Fair enough, I just got very twitchy over it costing £200 for someone to see me for 15 minutes, got me worrying about the costs of scans, etc.
Obviously, I'm no doctor but everyone I know who've had steroid injections have commented on how they worked initially but the pain has always returned. Worth trying to get to the root cause initially perhaps? I seem to have some memory of the injections weakening tissues but that may also by bs. Worth having a google though.
Fair enough, I just got very twitchy over it costing £200 for someone to see me for 15 minutes, got me worrying about the costs of scans, etc.
Obviously, I'm no doctor but everyone I know who've had steroid injections have commented on how they worked initially but the pain has always returned. Worth trying to get to the root cause initially perhaps? I seem to have some memory of the injections weakening tissues but that may also by bs. Worth having a google though.
In reply to cha1n:
This has all been covered already but I know nobody can be expected to read all the fitclub posts! I don't expect the injections to fix the cause, I just need enough relief from the symptoms to allow me to recover properly without re-injuring myself every time I try to open a desk drawer or lift a cup. I'm a physical person and I can't just stop using both arms! As I understand it, this is what the injections will help with, a bit of a buffer to allow healing.
Although the exact cause is a mystery, massive trauma from pushing things too far for 2 weeks in Kaly was basically the main offender, not something I will be repeating any time soon, so I'm hoping that once the symptoms are fixed, the cause was unusual enough that it won't happen again, and if it does, I will STOP using my elbows immediately instead of pushing them for 2 months after they started hurting.
Yes, I'm a qualified idiot, I have a certificate.
This has all been covered already but I know nobody can be expected to read all the fitclub posts! I don't expect the injections to fix the cause, I just need enough relief from the symptoms to allow me to recover properly without re-injuring myself every time I try to open a desk drawer or lift a cup. I'm a physical person and I can't just stop using both arms! As I understand it, this is what the injections will help with, a bit of a buffer to allow healing.
Although the exact cause is a mystery, massive trauma from pushing things too far for 2 weeks in Kaly was basically the main offender, not something I will be repeating any time soon, so I'm hoping that once the symptoms are fixed, the cause was unusual enough that it won't happen again, and if it does, I will STOP using my elbows immediately instead of pushing them for 2 months after they started hurting.
Yes, I'm a qualified idiot, I have a certificate.
In reply to Dandan:
Ah I see. I thought it was likely that you would have done your research but thought it was worth mentioning just in case.
Well I really do hope it all works out for you. I wonder if Jerry Moffatt ever figured out what was wrong with his elblows? I remember reading he had a sudden elbow problem but think he quit climbing and took up surfing. Hey, you don't live that far from the beach!
EDIT* Re-read the section of his book and he actually had surgery and physio over the course of 2 years and came back to climb really hard again. Might be inspiring to read his book.
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/news/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36598
Ah I see. I thought it was likely that you would have done your research but thought it was worth mentioning just in case.
Well I really do hope it all works out for you. I wonder if Jerry Moffatt ever figured out what was wrong with his elblows? I remember reading he had a sudden elbow problem but think he quit climbing and took up surfing. Hey, you don't live that far from the beach!
EDIT* Re-read the section of his book and he actually had surgery and physio over the course of 2 years and came back to climb really hard again. Might be inspiring to read his book.
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/news/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=36598
Post edited at 15:29
1
In reply to cha1n:
Got it, one of my favourite climbing Biogs.
I'm not so enamoured with the 2 years out of climbing bit if I'm honest, I'd like to skip that bit entirely!
Got it, one of my favourite climbing Biogs.
I'm not so enamoured with the 2 years out of climbing bit if I'm honest, I'd like to skip that bit entirely!
In reply to Just Tintin:
Morning Campers,
Thanks JT.
Bit of an epic today - you'll need to be able to read about Font 8C+/9A to get through it all - I'd make a cuppa if you're going for it.
If not, last week was ace - got lots of great climbing in. Got loads of new goals, mainly working on arm, core and shoulder strength, adding endurance stuff into the mix and doing more routes (inc falls).
Training Diary WC 20/7/15
Training Again (ish)!
Monday – Strava Training Plan (STP) run 1: - Easy 30mins. Hilly, off road 6.6km in 32:14 at 4:52m/km pace. Ran some trails that I’ve only ever biked before – singletrack for shoes – fan-flippity-tastic! Legs were feeling Saturday’s run to begin with but got into it. Kept in right pace/heart rate zones too – huzzah!
Tuesday – Biblins with Tom; warmed up retro-almost flashing the burly New School, Old School (F6C+) in two goes. Then, nailed the overhanging and crimpy traverse of School’s Out For Summer (F7A+) which, last year I simply couldn’t do – took about 20 mins to work out a sequence and nail it. Except that I didn’t do the top out from the big ledge - so probably worth F7A (just) – will do it next time. Tom then started shuffling even further sideways, trying to link the previous problem into The Bulge – fell off this a fair bit (some off balancy, hard moves) before finishing the evening with a muck about on The Bulge Footless (F7B). Got one and a bit campus moves up it (the biggest one is done) before running out of steam and skin – will be back for this too! An ace session – felt back on it a bit which is great!
Wednesday –STP run 2: Intervals – 8 x 84s intervals w 1min easy jog rest. Each interval should’ve been 400m but, as I’d been on steady 20 min uphill run to warm up and wasn’t in me usual spot, most fell short by 10 to 30m. Still, not too shabby for the first time back on it (will use the regular, measured out spot next time) and the off road run home down the ridge of the hill we live under as the light left for the night was simply fabulous.
Thursday – Avon Sea Walls, bouldering. A four hour session (longest for a while). Warmed up on For… (6B), a dyno from crimps which went third go before trying to ground up Most Choice (E2 6b/ F6C+/7A (possibly?)). Took about 30 goes and some very pink finger tips but, having ‘river danced’ below the last move a good four or five times and then made the ‘knees to ears’ leap off, I was inspired by Tom caressing the top jug, changed my sequence and sent it next go. It’s quite high so sorting out the top out on sight was exciting – managed to keep cool (back in the ‘zone’ a bit) and soaked up the adrenaline once on top. Finished the evening off with a quick (10 goes ish) repeat ascent of the knacky, technical The Arete (F7A), which was greasy and great in equal measure. I felt that I climbed this with much better style than when I did it as my first 7A about 3 years ago – progress!
Friday – Digging in the garden.
Saturday – Biblins Cave. ‘Retroflashed’ The Bulge (7A) first go as first warm up problem – quite surprised! Revisited the moves at the end of School’s Out For Summer (F7A+), having done them last summer) and sent ‘em 3 times after practice. Went for the send and fell out of the very last move four times – next time! Worked the some of the moves on School of Burl (F7B) and made great progress; having gotten the lesser part of nowhere on it last year, I got up to the undercut (3 moves from end) and was actually useful on it! I beasted myself on this so could only manage one sad and solitary campus move from the actual start holds of The Bulge Footless (F7B) to finish. Headed home a happy chappy!
Sunday – Digging all day for ‘Supershed’ which’ll house a home clambering wall. Evening run: STP: Long Run – 12.5KM in 1:02:20. I felt pretty tired, with no oomph – rest needed.
Weight = must be still be portly as the scales are still broken.
July 2015
Goals
Right then, goals:
Review of STG (continued from Easter):
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both). Nope
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power. All but slopers improving, more of these needed - Still a no – snapped a key crimp on Between The Lines and didn’t manage Underhand (got super close though)
Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far. – Didn’t really try any new ones so ongoing - still ongoing.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness. - not been indoors much recently but definitely climbing more.
MTG (continued from Easter)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a) haven’t been on it for weeks – this could be an ambitious goal,
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave – getting the moves worked out.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh? Need to try some more 7Bs!
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone – visiting for a week soon.
Build a training wall in the loft. Wall is now going in a new ‘Supershed’ which I’m busy sorting out right now – whoop whoop!
Run an 18 min 5K – not really run much for weeks.
Run a mile in 5 mins – as above.
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C - ongoing.
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife – not gonna happen as she’s pregnant – bambino due in December.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them! Made a start – feels goooood! - done more silly adventures/long runs.
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
New Goals
Well, it’s felt like, after making a heap of progress the year before last, that this year I’ve consolidated rather than moved on. I’ve got better at working out sequences, executing moves consistently once worked out and my confidence in my ability has grown, as has my dynamic movement. I don’t feel any stronger but more ‘tenacious’.
I’ve identified the following weaknesses (which I’ve been mostly ignoring/dabbling with for a while now):
Front 2 and back 2 finger strength,
Hanging slopers (both duration and slope-iness,
Stamina: the Strava running plan has taught me that to get better at short, intense stuff, I need to have better endurance – more is more! So, will add in volume of easier stuff (easy in the new home wall).
Do more trad/highballing: it’s good for my confidence and I’d forgotten how much I love it – will help endurance too.
Do more sport climbing: as above.
Take some lobs, lots of lobs.
My finger strength is generally pretty good but my arms, shoulders and core are the weak link – they tire first on the fingerboard programs. Lots to do on this.
Do more ‘additional’ exercises e.g. core stuff etc.
Work out how to fit this all together.
If you've read this far, your endurance is way better than my climbing endurance and you've just done F8C+/9A (in epic reading)!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Thanks JT.
Bit of an epic today - you'll need to be able to read about Font 8C+/9A to get through it all - I'd make a cuppa if you're going for it.
If not, last week was ace - got lots of great climbing in. Got loads of new goals, mainly working on arm, core and shoulder strength, adding endurance stuff into the mix and doing more routes (inc falls).
Training Diary WC 20/7/15
Training Again (ish)!
Monday – Strava Training Plan (STP) run 1: - Easy 30mins. Hilly, off road 6.6km in 32:14 at 4:52m/km pace. Ran some trails that I’ve only ever biked before – singletrack for shoes – fan-flippity-tastic! Legs were feeling Saturday’s run to begin with but got into it. Kept in right pace/heart rate zones too – huzzah!
Tuesday – Biblins with Tom; warmed up retro-almost flashing the burly New School, Old School (F6C+) in two goes. Then, nailed the overhanging and crimpy traverse of School’s Out For Summer (F7A+) which, last year I simply couldn’t do – took about 20 mins to work out a sequence and nail it. Except that I didn’t do the top out from the big ledge - so probably worth F7A (just) – will do it next time. Tom then started shuffling even further sideways, trying to link the previous problem into The Bulge – fell off this a fair bit (some off balancy, hard moves) before finishing the evening with a muck about on The Bulge Footless (F7B). Got one and a bit campus moves up it (the biggest one is done) before running out of steam and skin – will be back for this too! An ace session – felt back on it a bit which is great!
Wednesday –STP run 2: Intervals – 8 x 84s intervals w 1min easy jog rest. Each interval should’ve been 400m but, as I’d been on steady 20 min uphill run to warm up and wasn’t in me usual spot, most fell short by 10 to 30m. Still, not too shabby for the first time back on it (will use the regular, measured out spot next time) and the off road run home down the ridge of the hill we live under as the light left for the night was simply fabulous.
Thursday – Avon Sea Walls, bouldering. A four hour session (longest for a while). Warmed up on For… (6B), a dyno from crimps which went third go before trying to ground up Most Choice (E2 6b/ F6C+/7A (possibly?)). Took about 30 goes and some very pink finger tips but, having ‘river danced’ below the last move a good four or five times and then made the ‘knees to ears’ leap off, I was inspired by Tom caressing the top jug, changed my sequence and sent it next go. It’s quite high so sorting out the top out on sight was exciting – managed to keep cool (back in the ‘zone’ a bit) and soaked up the adrenaline once on top. Finished the evening off with a quick (10 goes ish) repeat ascent of the knacky, technical The Arete (F7A), which was greasy and great in equal measure. I felt that I climbed this with much better style than when I did it as my first 7A about 3 years ago – progress!
Friday – Digging in the garden.
Saturday – Biblins Cave. ‘Retroflashed’ The Bulge (7A) first go as first warm up problem – quite surprised! Revisited the moves at the end of School’s Out For Summer (F7A+), having done them last summer) and sent ‘em 3 times after practice. Went for the send and fell out of the very last move four times – next time! Worked the some of the moves on School of Burl (F7B) and made great progress; having gotten the lesser part of nowhere on it last year, I got up to the undercut (3 moves from end) and was actually useful on it! I beasted myself on this so could only manage one sad and solitary campus move from the actual start holds of The Bulge Footless (F7B) to finish. Headed home a happy chappy!
Sunday – Digging all day for ‘Supershed’ which’ll house a home clambering wall. Evening run: STP: Long Run – 12.5KM in 1:02:20. I felt pretty tired, with no oomph – rest needed.
Weight = must be still be portly as the scales are still broken.
July 2015
Goals
Right then, goals:
Review of STG (continued from Easter):
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both). Nope
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power. All but slopers improving, more of these needed - Still a no – snapped a key crimp on Between The Lines and didn’t manage Underhand (got super close though)
Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far. – Didn’t really try any new ones so ongoing - still ongoing.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness. - not been indoors much recently but definitely climbing more.
MTG (continued from Easter)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a) haven’t been on it for weeks – this could be an ambitious goal,
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave – getting the moves worked out.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh? Need to try some more 7Bs!
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone – visiting for a week soon.
Build a training wall in the loft. Wall is now going in a new ‘Supershed’ which I’m busy sorting out right now – whoop whoop!
Run an 18 min 5K – not really run much for weeks.
Run a mile in 5 mins – as above.
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C - ongoing.
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife – not gonna happen as she’s pregnant – bambino due in December.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them! Made a start – feels goooood! - done more silly adventures/long runs.
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
New Goals
Well, it’s felt like, after making a heap of progress the year before last, that this year I’ve consolidated rather than moved on. I’ve got better at working out sequences, executing moves consistently once worked out and my confidence in my ability has grown, as has my dynamic movement. I don’t feel any stronger but more ‘tenacious’.
I’ve identified the following weaknesses (which I’ve been mostly ignoring/dabbling with for a while now):
Front 2 and back 2 finger strength,
Hanging slopers (both duration and slope-iness,
Stamina: the Strava running plan has taught me that to get better at short, intense stuff, I need to have better endurance – more is more! So, will add in volume of easier stuff (easy in the new home wall).
Do more trad/highballing: it’s good for my confidence and I’d forgotten how much I love it – will help endurance too.
Do more sport climbing: as above.
Take some lobs, lots of lobs.
My finger strength is generally pretty good but my arms, shoulders and core are the weak link – they tire first on the fingerboard programs. Lots to do on this.
Do more ‘additional’ exercises e.g. core stuff etc.
Work out how to fit this all together.
If you've read this far, your endurance is way better than my climbing endurance and you've just done F8C+/9A (in epic reading)!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Joyce:
Congratulations Joyce!
> ....the good lady wife – not gonna happen as she’s pregnant – bambino due in December.
Congratulations Joyce!
2
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