UKC

Voie Rebuffat South Face - Aiguille du Midi

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myrockface 02 Aug 2015
Hi UKClimbers,
Just wondering does anyone ever abseil to the base to avoid taking boots & ice axe with them? I know people leave bags at the base, abseil down, and then walk back up the arete but was thinking of abbing into the route (from 1st bin before the face is too busy obviously!)
Thanks
Jon
 jon 02 Aug 2015
In reply to myrockface:

Yes. There are even specific abseil routes to land you at the bottom of the right route. It's very quick and far easier than walking to the bottom and carrying boots and crampons up it and more logical than abseiling back down and walking back up, but as you suggest, you could piss a lot of people off if you're late. I've accessed several routes this way (never the Rébuffat though) and there have always been loads of folk on the Rébuffat. My comments on this photo give you an idea of the time saving involved: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=108210
In reply to myrockface:

Yep, people do just go in from the top sometimes
 spidermonkey09 02 Aug 2015
In reply to myrockface:
I haven't done it, but my girlfriend has, she got the first lift up to find a lot of people had bivied at the bottom of the face and were already on it to avoid the traffic. So although it may be possible seems the risk exists that you could piss a lot of people off even from the first lift!
Post edited at 11:34
 Mark Haward 03 Aug 2015
In reply to myrockface:

Yes, you can but people are likely to have got to the base and started climbing before you have got there abseiling. For a more aesthetic and uncrowded / less crowded experience I would recommend sunbathing nearby until early afternoon then get on the route expecting to ab down at the end for a nice bivvy or stay in hut.
 galpinos 03 Aug 2015
In reply to jon:

You just wanted to link that photo didn't you.......
 galpinos 03 Aug 2015
In reply to jon:

Strong leggings but her tache isn't up to much!
myrockface 03 Aug 2015
Great photo! Didn't help that much in my decision but thanks for the share anyhow So we decided to walk down in the end and climb with our packs, top out on the 6b pitch. Think that was the best option though there was a team that abbed down and cut in at the top of the 1st pitch which was annoying! (there were 2teams waiting to start and 2teams already on the belay) Not sure what i think of that climbing etiquette :P
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