UKC

Wildcat access

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 johncook 03 Aug 2015
Have avoided Wildcat for a while because of the path closures, but we decided to go there today. The intention was to walk in from the Railway station end over the top path, but as we walked past we noticed there were no barriers on new bridge, no signs, no tape. Thought things must have been sorted so crossed the bridge with no-one in sight. Climbed on the crag, walked back to the bridge to be confronted by a quite belligerent gentleman who said we shouldn't be in there, it was all closed off, top path and crag included. He pointed to a plan on a fence he was standing behind/infront of! He was really pushing his point until I reminded him of the H and S problems of leaving a dangerous site unsecured and unsupervised. Attitude changed a little and he became more chatty. I assume he was shirty because he had made a mistake.
Since when was the crag closed to climbers. There is nothing on the BMC RAD or I would not have gone. When will it be re-opened to climbers? Will e-mail the BMC for their response.
 hillynomates 03 Aug 2015
In reply to johncook:

There is actually something on the BMC RAD, as I reported it to them in June. Although the bridges had been closed and the paths taped off the official line at that stage was that the main crag itself was not within the restricted area. Note that it took a year for Derbyshire Dales to close access after the rockfall!
In reply to johncook: i live in Matlock Bath and the work on the cliffs was supposed to be finished before the end of July so i think they should be open again now. Taken from the Matlock Bath Parish council website. "Work will begin on 1st July and will take three weeks to complete. If there is a chance that the works could over-run,
the company has confirmed that extra resources will be put in place to ensure that the work is completed in plenty of
time for the illuminations. "
 Lukem6 04 Aug 2015
In reply to johncook:

wildact hasnt been closed lovers walk has meaning access was from cliff top path only. but as stated should be resolved
OP johncook 04 Aug 2015
In reply to Lukem6:
The plans the guy had showed that the riverside path, the cliff top path and the crag were all closed! He involked the name of Phil Burke and the BMC to cover the fact that the crags were closed. He was quite a stroppy man. At 2:00pm they were sitting around doing nothing. (I didn't mention this, but it appears they were waiting for a supervisor!)
There are now (I have been informed) notices and red and white tape on the cliff top path, and the end of the crag, and new barriers on the riverside walk. The new bridge barrier is openable for the contractors. Climbers are being actively discouraged/blocked from the crag.
It all seems a bit of a mess. Everyone has seen the notices. The BMC rad suggests the cliff top path, which is shown in red on the notices as closed!
Just wondered if someone had an up-to-date idea of what is happening, not what the council say should be happening.
The guy categorically stated that the main crag is closed! Quoted the names of Phil Burke and the BMC without prompting.
Waiting for a reply from the BMC and will update this thread when it arrives.

In reply to johncook:

Hi John, our England Access Officer is away on holiday climbing in the Alps, so you may not get a fast response. I've emailed Henry F who is the chief access volunteer for the Peak area, hopefully we can clarify the situation.

Cheers

Dan
 rocksol 04 Aug 2015
In reply to Dan Middleton, BMC:
Following a rockfall last year and a limited amount of rock scaling from the effected area, Derbyshire Dales District Council thought it would be prudent to inspect the other cliffs in the Lovers Walk area as obviously having experienced the rock fall they realised they had a duty of care and none of the cliffs had ever been inspected.
Rock Solutions a local company were commissioned to undertake a survey of the cliffs and it was quickly realised that there was a massive problem with large loose blocks all along the crest between from the old bridge right along to the boundary with the Willersley estate. The greater part of Wildcat is located within the Willesley estate.
The work would have already been completed, but a large unstable mass of rock was discovered directly above the bandstand and stabilisation measures are currently being undertaken to be completed this week.
Repairs to the river level pathways should also be completed within the next week to allow public access. Repairs to the old Victorian walks are not scheduled to be undertaken until next year and they will remain closed to the public.
None of this ongoing work would impact on access to Wildcat other than along the D.D.D.C. footpaths. It is not intended to stop climbers from accessing Wildcat, but they are in a catch all situation with regards to exposure to rockfall during the course of the works.
As of w/c 10/08/15 unhindered access should be available to Wildcat as the new bridge should be open.
I hope this clarifies the situation
Phil Burke, Rock Solutions
P.S. Rock Solutions are not responsible for the site security so I cannot comment on who the "stroppy" man might be.
Post edited at 16:42
OP johncook 04 Aug 2015
In reply to rocksol: Cheers Phil. Whoever he is he seems to be badly misinformed and quite happy to be aggressive to climbers. There were no barriers or workers at 10:30, but when we descended from the crag at 2:00ish he almost tried to prevent us from leaving, he quoted you by name and the BMC when he said the whole crag, including the main edge were closed. Also his plan showed the cliff top path was closed. I am just trying to clarify the situation.
As long as we use the cliff top path. starting from the station carpark, we can access the main crag?
 rocksol 05 Aug 2015
In reply to johncook:

John
The cliff top path is not closed, however there has been rock removed above the far path down that arrives at the base of the cliff at the border wall between D.D.D.C. area and Willesley estate. The council intend that this path is closed until next year, when they intend to implement repairs. I would use a little discretion here and next week the new bridge should also be open allowing access from below. It may be that anyone climbing on the Willesley estate part of Wildcat is in theory trespassing.
 charley 11 Aug 2015
In reply to rocksol:

The bridge was still closed this afternoon...
OP johncook 11 Aug 2015
In reply to charley: BMC RAD said the bridge would be open from the 10th. Have not checked the RAD again yet, hope the BMC are keeping abreast of developments.

 Simon Caldwell 12 Aug 2015
In reply to johncook:

RAD hasn't been updated, it still says 10th
1
 HB1 12 Aug 2015
In reply to johncook:

Still a barrier on New Bridge today (wednesday) Easily circumvented by climbers of course. No belligerents, and no activity. Very quiet on the crag
 Paul Hy 06 Sep 2015
In reply to johncook:
Has the barrier been removed yet?
Post edited at 14:32
OP johncook 06 Sep 2015
In reply to Paul Hy: I have not been down since the minor spat with officialdom. I am told that the bridges are open and that access is easy again.
I believe there is still some path repair to be completed, but it does not affect the crag.
I am hoping to get down there in the next few days so will post after that.

 Paul Hy 07 Sep 2015
In reply to johncook:

Yeah, went there today, bridge is open and access is back to normal. I had to walk to top to ab off and get gear and you can see where all the work has been done and where the rock which is scattered all along the bottom came from!!
On another note the reason i had to ab to get gear is my partner pulled 3 blocks off of Broken Toe Groove, no injuries and luckily no one was below, i was under the overhang. The blocks were just below the bulge on the 2nd pitch and had been loose for some time.

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