In reply to GridNorth:
It's definitely harder going direct! It's the better route though. Much scarier to tackle the roof direct than scuttle off to the right
The guide book is pretty specific on yesterday's dreams. Says something about using the finger slot in the lip of the roof. Which pretty much only sets you up for going direct.
For me climbing (trad) is largely psychological. It's a battle with fear not with the route. So sometimes I conquer fear, and sometimes it conquers me
In my mind it's a much better to accept the challenge and fall short than to mentally quit.
I think it's a much purer attempt to feel the pump, decide to push on and ultimately take a fall. Than to mentally quit and find a way to rest or reduce the challenge. I'd rather fail spectacularly than succeed by a lesser means. But that's the climbing game, I cant expect anyone else to play by my rules, it's all totally arbitrary in the end.