UKC

Brimham RocksGrit Attack (HVS 5b)
a couple of weeks ago while climbing at Brimham one of our party (Jim) commented that you only see videos of people climbing hard routes really well and don't see many of anyone having a proper 'mare!
An hour later..... ........ Martin lead the climb and then Jim second......

http://paulhorsmanphotographer.blogspot.co.uk

In reply to paulh.0776:

I don't that's actually true though. A lot of vids show climbers struggling and failing these days. The recent one of Dave Mason trying the 8b/+ Rocklands boulder problem captured that really well I thought. The Ben Moon/Rainshadow one certainly had some failing going on. And most famous of all were the La Dura Dura videos. The first was completely about failing and was made before the route was even done. But even the second was as much about the struggle and difficulty as the actuall ascents. The recent Emily Harrington vid on El Cap really focused on her struggle, the cuts and bruises all over her back, feeling despondent etc.

In reply to stp:

Yes you're right, I'll tell Jim he's not alone and has some exalted company to keep up with

In reply to paulh.0776:

There are some really nice photos on your blog Paul! I adore the red squirrel.

In reply to paulh.0776:

I don't think it's strictly a bad thing to have videos of people not climbing well. I think you can learn from those almost as much as the ones of people climbing well and if everybody is honest they have their bad days - I had a ridiculously awful day at the indoor wall earlier this week, it was embarrassing. I may not have learned much in what to do well but I did learn a bit about where some of my weaknesses are, although it took me the best part of two hours and a bit of kicking myself when I got home to figure them out and to not have such a pants day next time!

In reply to paulh.0776:

I think this guy was struggling a bit...

youtube.com/watch?v=iZfayydpIKc&

In reply to Mowglee:

Funny as...

In reply to Mowglee:

It's not often that I laugh until the tears run down my face but that was funny..

In reply to Mowglee:

I was thinking of exactly the same video.

Rock and ice have a weekly weekend whipper feature that seems to be mostly idiots struggling and falling off routes while wearing go pro cameras on their heads.

In reply to stp:

But that's just failing to do moves where there's little/no risk - what we really want to see is climbers whimpering with fear! There's no better spectator sport than someone way above their gear getting disco leg....then disco both legs......then disco both legs and chicken arms......

In reply to Rachel Slater:

thanks Rachel, I love taking shots of the squirrels, I think they like posing for the camera..

vimeo.com/84425305

In reply to Toerag:


I've seen plenty of these videos online, and they're a bit grim really, unless of course you enjoy seeing someone break their leg or get carried off in a stretcher - which often seems to be the result.

More broadly, could an appetite for this kind of movie explain why British climbers are a bit rubbish? If you - even unconsciously - associate falling off with a broken limb, then you're less likely to go for it...

In reply to seankenny:

If you don't at least sometimes associate falling off with a broken limb you are perhaps more likely to end up with one. The first time I decked probably made me a lot more clinical about what I chose to have a bash at afterwards. Before that I ( and I was at the most reckless of ages) used to mainly go off grades, stars,inspiring guidebook and magazine photos and trying to outdo mates... pretty sure the idea of getting hurt was something I never ran through my noggin. After hobbling round on crutches for a bit I started asking myself "is this route worth that potential fall to me" and I started pushing my grade more but being more selective. To me, accepting you might fall, the likelihood of it, and a realistic idea of the range of consequences and accepting those is what can help keep a clear head. I found it preferable to being at a run out crux and then considering it for the first time. People deal best with pressure in different ways though I guess.

I'm with you on not liking watching someone else get the fear when in a bad position. Very uncomfortable even when only a video.

In reply to paulh.0776:

Hahaha. Brilliant. Made getting rained off much better. Will seek the route out to. Looks fun.... lol.
Luke.

In reply to mark20:

I love that. Poetic justice considering Airlie Anderson called Adrian Burgess (of all people) a wuss earlier in the video!

In reply to paulh.0776:

The Onsight dvd is pretty good for watching folk at their limit attempting onsights of some great routes. Recommended viewing
Jim

In reply to Mowglee:

I'd seen that before but never noticed the all-star cast... Jason Kruk, Cedar Wright and Hazel Findlay?! Nice to know even wads occasionally have to struggle so hard they sh*t themselves.

In reply to luke glaister:

Glad you like it Luke, ...I filmed Martin leading it first so if you want a preview of the difficulties check out episode 1:

youtube.com/watch?v=RtFdv-_iXWE&

In reply to paulh.0776:

Nic Sellars on Gin Palace here (skip to about 9:30):

youtube.com/watch?v=ExYLODieJgg&

In reply to paulh.0776:

Joe Kinder flailing on the well named "The Unlucky 13th". Lots of of cursing, falling and broken holds...

youtube.com/watch?v=f_IdBxN1bQ0&

In reply to stp:

"f*cking hell, what the f*ck am I doing on an E8?"

youtube.com/watch?v=6SxH2ILd74c&

In reply to Jon Stewart:
Robbie Phillips getting his fingers stuck : (starts about 16 min in)

youtube.com/watch?v=O_3WlxO5i2Y&

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Top stuff. Plenty of struggling going on there and it looked totally terrifying too.