UKC

NEWS: Der Barde besingt die Wunder des Tages - new 9a by Megos

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC News 20 Aug 2015
Alex Megos on Der Barde besingt die Wunder des Tages, 9a, Frankenjura, Germany, 4 kbOn a brief pit stop between assignments, Alex Megos has made the first ascent of. Der Barde besingt die Wunder des Tages yet another 9a in the Frankenjura, Germany.

This one is very short and powerful, even by Frankenjura standards as the crux is only three moves long “3 moves and two...

Read more
 progrupicola 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Wow! it looks like a new AD only shorter..
Another for the Steel-fingered
 stp 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

Great pic that makes it look absolutely desperate.

Not even sure how many 9a's he's put up now. Two at Ceuse?, two in Australia and two in Germany perhaps? Plus he's done various other new routes from 8c+ down to 8a+. I haven't heard of any of these being repeated.

Although there are quite a few climbers doing 9a now its obvious that Megos is super strong so if his routes have hard cruxes they may well stop climbers able to climb more endurance based 9as. I remember a video showing Ramon having a really hard time with a Frankenjura 9a some time ago.
 john arran 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC News:

What a wonderfully intriguing photo. He appears to have no points of contact at all, having launched himself into the air by means of a solitary mono, and with no holds to speak of within reach. Added to that his hair looks to all the world like part of the surrounding vegetation.
I love it.
DanGreb 20 Aug 2015
In reply to stp:

Ramonet isn't really the best example. He is the strongest climber in the world right now. He fails on some routes due to his short stature but in terms of endurance, finger strength, power to bodyweight ratio he is leagues above Megos, Ondra etc. When he was in Frankenjura he made a second go ascent of Zugzwang 8c+/9a in less than ideal conditions and he also onsighted a 3-4 8b+ if I remember correctly...

DanGreb 20 Aug 2015
In reply to john arran:

Reminds me of the crux of the Bombe bleu project in Buoux. Incidentally Alex is probably the best candidate to take it down with all the training he's done in the Frankenjura.
 stp 20 Aug 2015
In reply to DanGreb:

Interesting. I know Ramonet is strong but it seems more lead comp endurance strong rather than out and out power. I'd have thought Megos was the stronger of the two because apart from lead climbing he boulders at the top level as well. I also read he could do 5 one armers on each arm which I thought was pretty impressive. His endurance is also amazing too thinking about his one day ascent of Biographie. But then I don't know much about Ramonet other than his ascents and competitions so interested to hear more.
DanGreb 21 Aug 2015
In reply to stp:

Most top climbers can knock out a few at least. Even the women. Alex Puccio can do 3-4 on her dominant hand. Ramon's body composition is conducive to strength. He has basically the same proportions as the strongest strength gymnast in the world Danny Rodrigues. You can see by the way Ramon powers through long moves that his power to weight ratio is off the charts. As for finger strength look no further than the World Lead Finals in Gijon. At the top of the route where Ondra has to sprint through, Ramon, to the shock of the pro climber co-commentator, shakes out on crimps after spending significantly more time on the route than the other climbers. Then after the finals in the Zlagzboard dead hang contest sets a record that's probably never going to get broken. Enudrance and Power are more closely related than most people realize. More power = more endurance. As for bouldering, I vaguely remember Ramonet saying in an interview that he doesn't like bouldering.
 aln 22 Aug 2015
In reply to DanGreb:

> Most top climbers can knock out a few at least.

I knocked one out last night. Hasn't helped my climbing.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...