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NEW ARTICLE: The Hard Way Down: A Brutal Reminder of Alpine Danger

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 UKC Articles 20 Aug 2015
Panoramic view of crevasse. The small path of red is where Cassim landed, 3 kbLike many British climbers, Cassim Ladha and his friend Paul ventured to the French Alps this summer to get their fill of some classic routes. All was going so well - until complacency set in and the inevitable happened. Many thanks to Cassim for bravely writing about his experience, in the hope that others take heed and respect the indiscriminate dangers that an alpine environment poses.

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 planetmarshall 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good article. I don't have Cassim's experience, but i can't help but think that the North Face of the Dru is an odd choice of objective given the weather in the Massif this Summer. It's one of my objectives too but I wouldn't be going anywhere near it in a hot spell.
1
 Puppythedog 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Thank you for sharing.
 walts4 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Good share, as mentioned, that particular crevasse has claimed a fair few scalps, there's another one right at the base of the arĂȘte that catches out more than it's fair share as well.

Its amazing how many people will wander over to the cosmics unroped even whilst carrying a rope & with a partner in tow!
 GridNorth 20 Aug 2015
In reply to planetmarshall:
He didn't go near the North Face of the Dru and in any case if they found the Frendo straightforward I would say they would have been well prepared for it.

It's a good reminder that even somewhere are benign as the glacier below the Midi, crevasses can still be a danger. I have to say I think that this must be a recent consequence of climate change. I have never seen a crevasse in that area in over 40 years of visiting. Sobering, I've soloed across to the Cosmiques hut and the Cosmiques Arete many times.

Thank you.

Al
Post edited at 13:47
 Ben_Climber 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Makes you realise how easy it is to get caught out!
Glad to hear it was only a busted nose and nothing worse.

Thanks for sharing.
 Mick Ward 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

So easily done. It's a wake up call for all of us. Glad you survived.

Mick
 jon 20 Aug 2015
In reply to GridNorth:

> I have never seen a crevasse in that area in over 40 years of visiting. Sobering, I've soloed across to the Cosmiques hut and the Cosmiques Arete many times.

Well yes, that's it. They are always there but you just don't see them, though there are always a couple in the slope below the Cosmiques. I posted recently on a thread about the hot weather this year, that back in 2003 - which was the hottest driest period I remember in the alps - I'd seen caverns that I never suspected were there in the flat plateau de Trient. It was a complete maze. People tend to think that flat glaciers don't have crevasses as the are not subject to flowing over convexities etc. That same summer the same thing was evident on the equally flat col de Chermotane near the Vignettes hut. I'm willing to bet that both those glaciers are in the same state again this year.
 Paperclip 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

This story sound very familiar. A group of about 4 people pulled you out with a "manschaftzug"? And it happened the week of 20th July? (probably on the July 23th) If so my friends pulled you guys out. They were Dutch and on the younger side of the alpine realm.
If this was you I can provide some personal details of the guys who helped you.
 ashaughnessy 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'd be very interested to know if all the other parties on the glacier at the same time were roped up or not? Personally I'd be reluctant to rope up if I saw everyone else wasn't, simply for fear of looking like a daft tourist. Stupid attitude I'm sure, but many of us are prone to it.
Anthony
1
In reply to ashaughnessy:

Hueristic trap.
 Mark Collins 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Brilliant article, it may save lives. Thanks for sharing.
 jcw 20 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles: good article. But I am afraid even with the greatest care it is part of the Alpine experience. It happened to me on the Freney glacier with only my partner. As Rene Ghilini caustically remarked " it is equally stupid to fall into a crevasse on the Mer de Glace as it is on the Freney but it is less bumbly". Don't let it put you off, there are no crevasses on the north Face of the Dru: just stone fall danger. But wow, when you've done it bugger the risks. It's what's the game is about.

 munky46 22 Aug 2015
In reply to jcw:

Great read and a stark reminder.
 McT 24 Aug 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Mr. Cassim article is very honest, and upfront about mistakes and choices.

I started climbing in the UK, but moved to the Canadian Rockies pretty soon after. Around here Glaciers are not to be trifled with. We don't get the same traffic ( I have never seen a clear path on any glacier I have ventured on no matter how busy), but there is a strong attitude of you always rope up no matter how benign in summer conditions.

 Jim Cooper 05 Sep 2015
In reply to UKC Articles:

Re the "Mannschaftzug" this from Wikipedia (uncorrected Google translate from the German):
"As Mannschaftszug is called a method of crevasse rescue, so the rescue of a mountaineer from a crevasse.

When walking on a glacier with columns, it is advisable, in a roped party to go from 2 up to 6 people.

A crevasse rescue in Mannschaftszug by pulling the entire team on the rope. This is the Turned withdrawn without additional measures. This usually requires at least three, better four people on a rope.

However, it should be exercised with great caution, because of the climbers contained in the column can be pressed by the rescuers when pulling up from the column to the column border and serious injuries (thoracic injuries by compression on the column border).

In order to avoid further cutting the rope into the snow, a must on the column edge ice pick under the rope are laid. There must be the commands (the first in the rope after the casualty) a commander, the cable must be carried out smoothly and orderly. The commander has the pulling "pull rope by one meter" command or when the victim is dragged into the vicinity of the column edge "rope around half a meter pull" type."
 Max Hangs 07 Oct 2015
In reply to Andy Clarke1965:

*heuristic

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