UKC

Hi. I am from Devon and after taking up some sports climbing whilst working in Austria I would like to try out some routes back in North Devon. Around Hartland & North Coast would be ideal.
There seem to be lots of routes existing which is good, but are they generally bolted / anchored for quickdraws, or more suited to traditional style? (or rusted away...!)

I guess I would be somewhere between a 5-6 level presently. Are there some suitable routes that someone could recommend please to get me started and build my confidence?

At some point next year I would like to bring over a couple guys from Austria to do some climbing in Devon and it would be nice to have some idea to plan some possible routes by then.

I have checked out some of the Logbooks for this area already and done some Web searches but any advice greatly received (especially regarding info of the suitability, general condition of routes and anchor points etc).

Thanks,
SM.

In reply to Struggle Meister:

is it too early to shout troll?

In reply to wiwwim:

I thought the same. The op wasn't very subtle.

In reply to cuppatea:

Oooh, Thanks for the warm welcome guys....!

Not quite sure what is so dodgy about my post.

In reply to Struggle Meister:

In that case my apologies.

North Devon is a wild unspoilt place and the climbing is Traditional not sport.


The closest sport climbing is in south Devon (I think)
Someone else will help more I'm sure.

In reply to Struggle Meister:

There is no sport climbing in North Devon. The nearest with 5-6 grades is probably Cheddar. South Devon has some sport climbing but very little at lower grades.

In reply to Struggle Meister:
The UK in general has very little sport climbing in the lower grades and what there is, is usually, poor quality. Your best bet is probably Portland which is arguably the best sports crag in the UK for those climbing in the 6's but even here 5's are a bit thin on the ground.

Al

In reply to GridNorth:

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. Clearly as a beginner I don't really know my backside from my elbow in the climbing scene and have been guided by some experienced guys where I am working in Austria.

I have done some 30m indoor climbing over the winter months (can't ski either!) and 3 different "climbing gardens" for outdoor rock climbing (using Quickdraws).

I am here there and everywhere for work but my family are in North Devon and my UK base is now Dorset.

I was hoping to carry on with the climbing as my occasional achy back seems much better after dangling off a rock face and I really enjoy it.

Sounds like I am a bit limited though to carry on the same sort of stuff back home that I have done so far.

PS - Watched Reel Rock 8 the other day... Flippin' great! ....."I recognise that road...."

Cheers,
SM

In reply to Struggle Meister:

If you're UK base is Dorset you're in luck, (s)Portland is not far and probably the best in the SW for lower grade climbing

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Yes, thanks. I had a look about yesterday and Swanage area has some routes too. So all is good. Will check them out when I am back.

SM